From its name, you'd think Nasomatto Nuda was a skin scent. From the ultra-cool and slightly irritating Nasomatto website (hint: turn off your speakers), you'd suspect Nuda was assertive and on the rock and roll side of Comme des Garçon's indie style. What you wouldn't know were the notes, since Nasomatto doesn't list them, instead preferring to toss out thoughts about the perfume such as "the unexpected tranquility of giving up oneself without concern for boundary", "hazy intuition of a depth that undoes distance", and a "quest to find a vanishing point in nature, the translucence of our senses, nude desire".
Nuda isn't a skin scent or a "bad boy" fragrance but is a whopping indolic jasmine. Nasomatto nose Alessandro Gualtieri is frank about basing his fragrances partly on his experiences with drugs (see the Nasomatto manifesto), but in the case of Nuda, I'd say the PR copy is more likely than the fragrance to be the result of a trip. As loud as Nuda is at first, in the end it's elegant and calm — almost ladylike.
Nuda starts out demanding. During the first few minutes of wearing it I wasn't sure exactly if the fecal/cat pee edge was me or the litter box. I smell spearmint, pepper, brand new patent leather, and loads and loads of gorgeously fetid jasmine. At this point, even a few drops of the fragrance fill the room with an intense, almost plastic-tinged aroma.
After 15 minutes or so, Nuda's sillage shrinks, and the fragrance feels warmer and more rounded. Last night I wore XerJoff Irisss and loved the balance of jasmine and iris, with most of the floral weight pulled by iris butter. With Nuda, the balance is reversed, with a hint of iris (and undoubtedly other florals I can't identify) but the lion's share of the fragrance going to jasmine. Once the fragrance really settles, it is still radiant with jasmine, but sedate, slightly musky, and tinged with sandalwood. It's as if Nuda goes from insolent but stylish teenager to soignée matron in the course of an hour.
To really enjoy Nuda, you must adore jasmine. Not just summer breezes of fresh jasmine, but jasmine that is practically rotting off the vine, and lots of it. That's the only thing that will get you through the first quarter of an hour of wearing it. But once Nuda has spent time on skin, it quiets into a fragrance that wouldn't be out of place at a romantic dinner (applied sparingly, of course.) I bet Jean Harlow would have loved it.
Nasomatto Nuda is available as 30 ml extrait for $185. For information on where to buy it, see Nasomatto under Perfume Houses.