When asked by a reporter — “What’s your favorite perfume?” — the Italian stage actress Eleonora Duse replied that such questions were “ridiculous and puerile.” 1 Duse avoided the press whenever possible and felt an actress “must not attract attention when she’s not on stage…an actress must pass through life unobserved.” 2 If Duse were alive and working today, I’m betting there would be no “Eleonora Duse” celebrity fragrance on the market. But it’s good, in the 21st century, to see or hear the name Eleonora Duse because she was such a cultural force in her lifetime.
Duse started acting at the age of four in her family’s theatrical troupe. As a child, she was often forced to beg on the streets, but Duse went on to become one of the most famous actors in the world. Using the theory of “six degrees of separation,” I feel a small connection to Duse. Right out of high school, I went to New York to study acting with Stella Adler, who was a student of Konstantin Stanislavsky, who said that he “got his inspiration for founding the Moscow Art Theatre from witnessing a performance of Duse’s.”3
At a time when actors assumed histrionic, unnatural poses, declaimed their dialogue, and displayed their own personalities on stage, Duse was different. She researched her roles, refused to wear outlandish “costumes,” wore no stage makeup, sometimes stood with her back to the audience. Her performances varied from night to night, and she allowed moments of silence and stillness on the stage. Duse’s approach to acting was revolutionary; she pored over and analyzed her scripts, and she used her inner resources (memory, emotional connections to people, landscapes, literature and art) to create believable characters. Reading reviews of Duse’s and her biggest rival’s (Sarah Bernhardt) performances, the consensus seemed to be that Bernhardt was an acting machine, a vivid personality — but always the same, and Duse was a 'real person' with the extraordinary ability to breathe life into the women she portrayed. Duse was (to put it humorously) a “doozy”…a word she inspired.4
Duse wore her long hair simply styled, and she never colored it, even as it turned white. She disliked jewelry and was fond of understated clothing (wearing loose/flowing black or white dresses most often) so it’s apt that she loved violets — an “understated” flower; tiny, and growing close to the ground, one has to approach violets on bended knee to sniff or really see them. Duse wore violet-scented cologne, often sent bouquets of violets to friends, and sprinkled violets on her bed (and lovers). From Stockholm on her 1896 Scandinavian tour, Duse wrote her paramour, writer Gabriele D’Annunzio:“You will smile now. I found some violets under the snow, living, LIVING, and tranquil, as if they were in a greenhouse.” Violets became Duse’s flower, “a symbol of awakening.”5
Laura Tonatto says Eleonora Duse (Eau de Parfum) is “an olfactory interpretation of the artistic personality and humanity of the great actress.” The fragrance contains bergamot, viola odorata (flowers and leaves), iris (whose powder used to be called ‘poudre de violette’), ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, mimosa, vanilla and cedar. Eleonora Duse starts with sweet citrus and violet flower, very harmonious, and a bit “formal.” Slowly, one detects violet leaf…not the brash violet leaf you’ll find in a zillion men’s department store scents, but a soft/“furry” violet leaf aroma that mingles with a dirty/earthy note. Eleonora Duse becomes powdery during the dry-down, and I detect a lovely iris powder note (not too sweet, not too smooth) that mixes with the lightest vanilla-wood accord imaginable. Eleonora Duse is an old-fashioned violet perfume that avoids stodginess; I think it would smell best worn in cool weather, but it’s so “quiet” it won’t overwhelm the wearer even on warm days.
I love violets and enjoy the Eleonora Duse fragrance (its sillage is minimal, its lasting power good). Though the Eleonora Duse fragrance notes sound feminine, I have no qualms about wearing the perfume (and I do have qualms about distinctly feminine perfumes on my person). If you’d prefer a more sparkling, summery violet fragrance, I recommend (and hope to review soon) the lively Geo. F. Trumper Ajaccio Violets.
Laura Tonatto’s Eleonora Duse fragrance rekindled my interest in a fascinating (and still inspirational) person. Duse wrote: “an actor vanishes without a trace.”6 She made only one short film— Cenere (Ashes) — watch it if you ever have the chance. I realized quickly the acting life was not for me, but the best parts of my years of training (losing my shyness, learning how to really read literature and look at art, nature, people) have stayed with me, made my life more interesting and enjoyable.
Laura Tonatto Eleonora Duse Eau de Parfum is available in 100 ml for 72€; the fragrance is also sold as a “clothing fragrance”/home fragrance spray (called “Nottegiorno”), 250 ml for 27€. The Eleonora Duse bottle label shows Duse in a 1901 publicity still by Gio-Batta Sciutto from the Biblioteca e Museo Teatrale del Burcardo in Rome. For buying information see the listing for Laura Tonatto under Perfume Houses.
To refresh my Duse knowledge, I read the wonderful book Eleonora Duse: A Biography by Helen Sheehy, Alfred A Knopf, 2003; notes: 1, p. 228; 2, p. 112; 3, p. 248; 4, p. 10; 5, p. 149; 6, p. 313.
Note: top image of Eleonora Duse, circa 1893, by John Singer Sargent [cropped]; and top/center-left images of viola odorata [cropped] by Johann Georg Sturm from Deutschlands Flora in Abbildungen, 1796, via Wikimedia Commons.
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Your review was such a breath of fresh air, Kevin! One of your best yet. Thank you for introducing me to this woman and this fragrance which I now absolutely have to try – especially being a violet lover. I was just at a store and saw how many celebrity /”actresses” are the “face” for various clothes lines, beauty products, and on the cover of every fashion magazine. I know a woman like Ms. Duse would probably be relegated to the Independent world of film today but I would sure love a quiet spitfire like hers in cinema today. Actually, the closest person I can think of off the top of my head is the brilliant and very successful Maggie Smith – but even she had her days in the spotlight. Off to track down Duse’s biography. Thanks again, Kevin!
LaMaroc: you’re welcome…and that YOU for such kind words.(Funny you mention Maggie Smith…I’m about to watch The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie after reading the novel….)
Oh, that scene where she has to process just who/what her student really is/has done…
Kevin – and if you haven’t already seen it, watch Ladies in Lavender with Maggie Smith and Judy Dench. It’s wonderful!
Stella Adler? Wow. This is a most fascinating post. It is beautifully written and so interesting. I’m definitely going to get a sample of Duze. Cenere is on my ‘to see’ list now. I love and appreciate what said acting taught you.
MeadowBliss: yes, give Duse a try. (in perfume…and Cenere)
Wonderful review, and it sounds as if the company truly desired to create a fragrance to reflect, and honor The Great Duse. She truly had a memorable face … face is too blase a word. Visage.
Dingnut: the perfume does seem fitting for her
Lovely review, and this is, indeed, a beautiful scent. I keep meaning to do a comparison between it and AG La Violette. I’m glad you’ve seen Cenere–seemed as though she was in a different film from the rest of the eye-rolling, hair-pulling cast. Extremely moving.
Francesca: she always had to contend with those types of actors…on stage too.
I’m not a violet girl, so I probably won’t seek this out, but I do want to read her biography. I was unfamiliar with Duse, and this was a great introduction. I love biographies because I’m fascinated by how people live, and she sounds so interesting. Thanks, Kevin!
Miss Kitty V: this bio is very very good..and has lots of Duse’s vivid writing in it too.
Thank you, Kevin! This review reminded me why I never start reading your article without making sure
1) I have a full pot of some nice tea
2) I won’t be disturbed
and a scented candle is kind of a 3) – but it’s optional.
The ceremony is required for sure. I adore violets. I was always in charge for violets when helping at my grandmother’s garden. In Apré L’Onde aniseed ruined violet note for me. Looking forward to Geo F. Trumper violet cologne review.
Veronika: Thank you! Some time is required for this long review! The Ajaccio Violet is a great perfume…and very good for summer/hot climates.
Kevin – Now I understand why I so enjoy reading your posts – there’s an artistic streak deep down in your soul!
I can appreciate the wonderful enrichments that the theatrical trainings have given you, as someone who had once intended to have (what a surprise…) an operatic career. The personal benefits that we’ve obtained as a result really do enrich our lives and enhance our personalities, and the best part is that they stay with us for the rest of our lives.
All that said – I’m normally not a violet person, but your review makes me want to seek this out just to experience how Ms Tonatto interprets Mme Duse’s personality through this perfume. I do have a love for Apres L’Ondee on my side, so who knows…
OperaFan: Ah…I sing opera too…with a voice that makes the crows and blue jays in my yard sound MELODIC in coparison! HA! I’m sure they celebrate when I simply crank up the volume on the CD player and stay mute myself. This violet is less “wet” than the Guerlain…a different “emotional” vibe to me. Curious how you’ll react to it.
Kevin, you write such beautiful prose. I knew a little about Eleanora Duse, but now that you have enlightened me, I want to know even more about her. The fragrance also sounds like something I would like. Thanks so much for the wonderful read!
Filomena: you’re welcome. I can’t believe there’s never been a filmed bio of Duse (that I know of anyway). It would be hard to cast, that’s for sure.
what a beautiful review…although just calling it a “review” is not doing your wonderful writing justice! i loved it very much! and am intrigued to try the fragrance (unfortunately here in argentina i don’t think i’ll find it). thank you for reminding me of “la duse”…here are some scenes from “cenere” for you all: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngFM1l0P5J8
EdnaFrau: thank you! You are right…the Tonatto scents are hard to come by….
Oh, I love this one! It was discontinued for awhile and just reappeared in the last couple months in her line-up, I’m assuming it’s the same but haven’t re-sniffed it. I liked it because it was rich (on my skin) without being too sweet or candied, or too powdery. It might be my favorite violet. I do like to layer it with Annick Goutal Violette that Francesca mentions.
March: I JUST tried it within the last two weeks so don’t know if the formula is different..but it doesn’t have the ‘scent of compromise’ about it…if you know what I mean. HA
Kevin- thanks for the lovely review! A doozy! This has moved to the top of my must try list.- violet lover that I am.
Helen…you wear your violette-love on your sleeve!
Thanks for a beautiful review, Kevin. Both the fragrance and the biography are now on my ‘must-seek’ list!
FragrantWitch: you’re welcome…
I’m not especially partial to violets, but your lovely review made me want to try this scent, in homage to Eleonora, if for no other reason! My acting training was brief (I was a model for about half a minute a long, long time ago) but I think it made me a better reader, teacher, and observer of others. Thank you for this thoughtful post!
Maggie: thanks!
This was so beautifully written, Kevin! I love it when in the process of reading a review, I discover more about the writer! There are so many violets I have yet to try, and this sounds like a wonderful one.
Jill: this one nudged out a few on the VioletLadder…this and Ajaccio are now my favorites. And for violet LEAF…love the Lutens Bois de Violette as well.
I’ve never heard of this Duse woman, won’t read her bio, and won’t seek out the juice because it doesn’t sound like my kind of thing. But I just had to comment to tell you how much I enjoyed the review. Fascinating. Inisightful. Beautifully written. it’s a treat to learn new things while I explore what often feels like a trivial hobby. (Not that what you guys do is trivial – I just feel guilty for spending my free time reading NST over, let’s say, the Wall Street Journal).
Sunski: one can’t just read the WSJ or the head will explode, right?
Kevin, this is a great review! I loved learning about Eleonora, and about the etymology of the word “doozy”! Count me among the violet fans, so I will seek a sample of this. Right now, my favorite violet is Stephen Jones. Which surprised this aldehyde-phobe.
Hmm. I hadn’t gone out of my way to try that Stephen Jones, but violets+aldehydes are right down my street…
Hi, Haunani: that’s one (of MANY) I’ve not tried.
Well, I am this close (holding finger and thumb a half inch apart) to buying a bottle of Stephen Jones. I will send you a sample if I get it and you still haven’t tried…
I’ll echo the other comments, Kevin and say thanks for the informative and evocative review! I do like violets, but they are a bit tricky: some are powdery to the point of stuffiness, and some go all the way to candied. My favorite violet, although I haven’t tried alllll of them, is Penhaligon’s, with Goutal’s second.
I tend to like cedar, but did not care much for Bois de Violette – is there much “cologney” angle in E Duse?
Mals86: I don’t find Duse “cologne-y” at all…it has great balance as it dries on skin…goes from moist and fresh to a tad dirty to dry/soft.
I visited Warsaw around 1990, when the old Europe, frozen in time, could still be glimpsed. An old woman on the street sold charming, old-fashioned violet nosegays, the little bunch of violet flowers rimmed by violet leaves like green lace. Love your review, Kevin, and also appreciate ednafrau’s link to the Cenere clips – will definitely seek to sample this!
nozknoz: what a lovely scent memory.
Such a wonderful read! I felt the admiration you have for her in your words. Thank you so much. I learned about a little more than perfume from your review. I dont recall ever hearing much about her. I’ll have to take a look into her life’s tory and I’ll definitely be looking to get a sample.
NaturalSelektion: Duse is one of the very very few actresses from her era who is still known. Even some of the great silent film acrtors are forgotten these days. So try E. Duse the perfume while IT lasts! HA!
What a thoughtful and well-researched review Kevin, and what an interesting biographical summary on wikipedia. There are neverending bits of history to learn about and it makes me almost melancholy to think about how quickly time turns many things and personalities into footnotes… yet they live on if we look for them I guess, in places as unlikely as a perfume bottle. Thanks for teaching me something today. (And I *love* the bit about First Lady Cleveland scandalizing Washington society by inviting Duse to tea — sounds very Edith Wharton or Henry James.)
As for this scent: I’m a violet-lover and should try this. The room spray sounds like it might be really nice also. I’m a bit cautious of the powder, because I only rarely am in the mood for an old-fashioned powdery violet like Borsari. I like the sound of the green leaf and earthy notes, though.
Lastly, I’m still always a bit surprised for some reason when you mention that you “have qualms about [wearing] distinctly feminine perfumes.” Enjoy your weekend.
Joe: I know…and now I think of YOU when I say/write such a thing! HA! I just have never been comfortable in powerhouse feminine orientals…or BIG rose fragrances…and watch me faint if tuberose explodes on my body. Perhaps I need therapy?
HA! I think the only reason it might surprise me is because I’m sure you mentioned wearing Montale Red Aoud to work, and to me, that is a thermonuclear ROSE-SAFFRON bomb. I mean, it’s not Nahema feminine, but it’s va-VOOM!
Joe: trying to get me to remember a Montale? Impossible! Do they have 1000 fragrances now? I remember liking, was it, RED Vetyver? But if I did wear and love Red Oud I know that saffron tempers rose for me…and if you have a hunk ‘o labdanum/leather, saffron or cumin in a rose it takes it to a place I like. I think Paestum Rose is on the cusp for me…I wear it…but one more drop of rose and it would be unwearable…for ME.
Kevin, what a fascinating piece. I, myself, trod the boards in my youth…”it is a shattering moment in a young person’s life when they realise:I shall never play the Dane”.
Particular fascination re the origin of “Doozie” as I may have allegedly (trying to avoid any accusation of promoting anything commercial) been involved in the production of a wine that may (or may not) have been called that, and we were quite sure that the name related to a large motor car. And now I find it relates to a truly great actress which is much nicer, and before that, I beleive, to the English habit of calling anything regarded as excellent “a Daisy” which conveniently merged with Duse to give us Doozie. I wonder if the motor car in Driving Miss Daisy was a Duesenberg?
Seraph: I don’t know! But it would be easy to find out since Driving Miss Daisy is on TV every. single. night.
I’m sorry that I wasn’t on-line yesterday, and almost missed this. I always enjoy your reviews, Kevin, but this is some of your best writing yet. Excellent! Bravo!
Rappleyea: thank you (as I bow in your direction)