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Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 25 April 2010 25 Comments

Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur still life

“He had a good feeling about it. That’s the thing about luck, you feel it or you don’t. This moment, he felt it. He found the morning’s rain had left everything looking greener and a bit sharper, like he was seeing it all for the first time, and he headed off with a spring in his step.”

So reads the promotional text for Trèfle Pur Cologne Absolue, one of the five fragrances recently launched by Atelier Cologne. Trèfle Pur was created by perfumer Jérome Epinette (who also developed Bois Blonds and Oolang Infini for Atelier). Its name translates as “pure clover,” and this fragrance does include a heart note of clover absolute. It starts with a very crisp note of basil, and something tart that reminds me of lime, possibly the effect of the bitter orange mixing with the basil leaves. Things get even leafier in the fragrance’s middle phase, where the namesake clover is paired with violet leaf (not violet flowers, mind you: this definitely isn’t a floral fragrance). There’s also a light layer of patchouli; it’s a dry and root-y patchouli, almost vetiver-like, rather than a damp and earthy patchouli. It’s the part of the fragrance that feels the most typically masculine, but it’s not strong enough to dominate the overall composition. Three or four hours later, I’m left with a subtle dry-down of greenish citrus and a whisper of sheer musk.

Atelier Cologne Trefle PurLike its sibling fragrances Grand Néroli and Orange Sanguine, Trèfle Pur is an interesting variation on the traditional “eau de cologne” idea. It has above-average staying power for a citrus-based scent, and it could easily be worn either by a woman or a man. I’ve been sampling it over the past week or so, while my husband and I have been moving house, and it’s turned out to be just right for this cycle of packing and unpacking, opening the windows of our new place to let in the spring air, and making plans for our tiny garden plot. I needed something fresh and invigorating to wear, and I also welcomed Trèfle Pur’s timely evocation of good luck.

Atelier Cologne Trèfle Pur Cologne Absolue sells for $165 (200 ml). For buying information, see the listing for Atelier Cologne under Perfume Houses.

Included in...

Best new fragrances for men ~ 2009-2010 edition

Possibly of interest

Atelier Cologne Encens Celeste ~ new fragrance
Atelier Cologne Rose Cuiree ~ new fragrance
Atelier Cologne Bohemian Orange Blossom ~ new fragrance

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: atelier cologne, citrus, jerome epinette

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25 Comments

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  1. rock-n-rose says:
    25 April 2010 at 12:43 pm

    Seems to be calling out to me… but sigh.. the price tag is likely to induce temporary deafness!

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 1:22 pm

      Hi Rock-n-Rose, This line is very well-done, so I’m less bothered by the price than I would be in many other cases… but no, it’s not cheap! Rumor has it that the company may release smaller/travel sizes someday, although not in the near future.

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  2. RusticDove says:
    25 April 2010 at 12:58 pm

    Another thing to add to my ‘citrus to try’ list. We could all use a little more luck, right? ;-) Mazel tov and best wishes in your new home & garden.

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 1:23 pm

      Yes, and thank you! I’m not normally a citrus person, but this line makes the citrus notes more complex and long-lasting, so I’ve been enjoying my sampling.

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  3. Jill says:
    25 April 2010 at 1:37 pm

    I really need to sample some of this line — this one sounds quite nice to me! I can see why it would be a nice “moving and unpacking” sent for you. Enjoy your new home! It sounds lovely.

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    • Jill says:
      25 April 2010 at 1:37 pm

      I meant “scent”, not “sent”. I’m not awake yet. :)

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      • Jessica says:
        25 April 2010 at 1:43 pm

        Thank you! and not to worry!

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  4. Elizabeth says:
    25 April 2010 at 2:42 pm

    I have been very impressed with this line so far. I ended up buying the Grand Neroli during the BG gift card event, and it just might be my new favorite scent! The vanilla in the base really pulls it all together. Trefle Pur was very nice, too. It would be an ideal St. Patrick’s Day scent, with the clover absolute!

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 4:14 pm

      Elizabeth, in hindsight, I should have timed this review for St. Patrick’s Day! and Grand Neroli is my favorite of the line, too… so radiant.

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  5. annemarie says:
    25 April 2010 at 5:23 pm

    Thanks for the review. I really like the little evocative pieces written for each of the fragrances in this line.Beautifully crafted and cleverly matched with an image, they are way more effective (in my mind) than the usual nonsense ad copy (although I guess Atelier is capable of coming up with nonsense ad copy as well!). The only other fragrance house doing that sort of thing that I know of (someone correct me) is La Prairie. Remember those video ads? Horrid, horrid.

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 6:08 pm

      Annemarie, I really like the writing and the photographs, too! It’s a nicely designed multi-media / multi-sensory presentation… evocative without being cringe-inducing!

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  6. Joe says:
    25 April 2010 at 5:37 pm

    Hi Jessica. I’ve owned a decant of this for about a month thanks to the gracious mjr. I overapplied when I first received it (fooled by the idea of citrus cologne), so it was a little “thick” on me and I learned my lesson.

    I like it quite a bit. I realized when I read your review that I hadn’t really looked back at the list of notes or thought about the “clover” association. I don’t get much “cut grass” or clover (clover flower anyway; I don’t recall what clover leaves smell like). Thus, in my head, this has been a very grapefruity-orange-spicy scent; the citrus top notes are terrific. The cardamom in this is very apparent to my nose, and when you mentioned basil, that made perfect sense too, though I never would have placed it, and nor would I have guessed patchouli (so those who recoil at the idea of that note needn’t fear).

    The drydown to me is softly spicy-woody (with perhaps the basil again) and *very* reminiscent of Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa — I finally did a smell comparison today to be sure. AdP CI is a stronger fragrance for sure, but there’s a similarity with the cardamom & citrus note. Lasting power is good for sure, but it’s a shame that incredibly zesty citrus opening doesn’t last longer. Thanks very much for the review!

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 6:10 pm

      Hi Joe! Isn’t that zesty opening accord a treat? It would feel wonderful on a warm day. I agree that overall this fragrance isn’t really as dewy/grassy/meadowy as the text makes it sound, and the patchouli is woody-dry, but not hippie-like at all!

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  7. Haunani says:
    25 April 2010 at 7:36 pm

    Jessica, I really enjoyed this review. You will always associate this fragrance with your move, and the good luck idea, won’t you? This sounds like my kind of fragrance. Must try.

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 8:29 pm

      Haunani, Yes, it will always remind me of this week or two! Thanks… I think it’s worth trying, if you like citrusy-green scents.

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  8. mals86 says:
    25 April 2010 at 7:53 pm

    I had been feeling sorry that I’d missed out on a split of this one, since I love basil and clover. However, I’m just not a big citrus fan, so now I’m feeling a little better that I didn’t buy something that wasn’t going to work for me. Thanks for the review, Jessica, and good luck with the move!

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    • Jessica says:
      25 April 2010 at 8:30 pm

      Mas86, I’m not usually much of a “green” scent wearer, but I love basil notes! I guess this scent was just green enough for me. :)

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      • mals86 says:
        26 April 2010 at 8:39 am

        Oh, I love greens! Citrus, not so much.

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  9. mjr17 says:
    25 April 2010 at 11:23 pm

    Oh, I adore this one and hosted a split (which Joe mentioned) last month. I get all the beautiful citrus, etc. in the opening, and in about 3-5 minutes I get freshly mown grass, which lasts for about 30 or so minutes til the woodsy drydown. This is so fresh and clean (in a non-aquatic way) that I see myself wearing this to take the uncomfortable edge off hot & humid summer days to come. I agree that the Atelier line is very well done. Received splits of Orange Sanguine (ah lovely floral overlaid with bright orange) and Oolang Infini (also superb – bright milky british tea on the opening and a rounder tea that’s been steeped a long time on the drydown).

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    • dollydagger says:
      26 April 2010 at 9:57 am

      ooohh…basil, citrus, green? That’s a definite yes. How does it compare to Eau du Sud? I love the basil and citrus of that one.

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      • Haunani says:
        26 April 2010 at 10:45 am

        I’m wondering the same thing, as I just discovered Eau du Sud!

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        • Jessica says:
          26 April 2010 at 11:02 am

          Dollydagger and Haunani, I haven’t tried Eau de Sud in a while, but if I come across it over the next few days, I’ll report back with a quick comparison! In the meantime, maybe someone else can say…?

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    • Jessica says:
      26 April 2010 at 11:00 am

      Mjr17, Aha, splits! Very clever! I love the Orange Sanguine, too. Perfect for hot, sunny weather!

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  10. maggiecat says:
    26 April 2010 at 10:52 am

    I’ve just ordered some samples of this line and enjoyed the review! I love citrus scents, especially in the Spring and Summer, and especially if they last longer than 5 minutes.

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    • Jessica says:
      26 April 2010 at 11:03 am

      Maggie, That’s one of the nice things about this line… the scents actually *do* last more than five minutes, despite being citrus-based. (They don’t last *all day*, of course, but they stay much longer than most citrusy scents I’ve tried before.)

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