Iris is the first new fragrance to join the Donna Karan Collection, which up until now was made up entirely of relaunches from the line's back catalog. The Collection scents are all done up in opaque black glass; the packaging is handsome if rather functional looking (see below) and the bottles have a nice heft. They're in limited distribution, making this a sort of niche-from-mainstream kind of line along the lines of the Chanel Les Exclusifs or the Armani Privés, although the prices are more reasonable than that perhaps implies.
On paper, Donna Karan Iris smells at first mostly of iris — not the rooty, bold, turnips-just-pulled-from-the-earth sort of iris à la Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, but the buttery-soft sort of iris that you get in Chanel's 28 La Pausa, albeit without that elusive Chanel touch that makes so many of the Les Exclusifs fragrances smell like money. Later, Iris takes on a more floral character: it's light and spring-like, and smells like a dewy, rosewater-ish blend of pale flowers laid over a very mild iris-y base. On skin (my skin, anyway), the trajectory is nearly reversed. We start with the pale flowers, and there's a faint strain of creamy magnolia that doesn't seem to stand out on paper; after 20 minutes or so it's a very quiet iris, just barely earthy, over a musky base.
Iris has a minimalist feel, and is more transparent than not: you'd be hard-pressed to over apply, and if you're after impressive sillage or lasting power, you're bound to be disappointed. I confess I was rather disappointed at first: it simply isn't as bold, or as focused on the iris, as I expected. On later reflection, I decided they were probably wise to take a different approach. Iris, like oudh, has been trendy the past year or so, and we didn't really need another variation on the same theme.
Verdict: it's pretty, approachable without smelling generic or dull, and very much worth a try. It didn't make me gasp and reach for my wallet, but I have a feeling it will find lots of fans.
Donna Karan Iris launches this month, in 100 ml Eau de Parfum for $95. The notes are iris, violet, magnolia, rose de mai, vetiver and ambrette seed. In the US, it will be at Bergdorf Goodman and selected Neiman Marcus stores, and at Donna Karan Collection boutiques. In the UK, it will be at Harrods.
Note: top image is p_0349 by tomooka at flickr; some rights reserved.
Dang it – I hope that my Neiman Marcus is one of the select ones because we don’t have a Bergdorfs here. It doesn’t sound like a replacement for either of my beloved irises – 28 La Pausa and Iris 39, but I’d still love to try (and perhaps buy) it.
Do they have the rest of the DK collection? Admittedly, I have not even looked to see if mine does.
lol – I have no idea since I haven’t even checked out their DK counter (if they have one). For all I know, The Galleria might have a DK boutique.
Hi Cynthiaw. I assume that the Galleria you are talking about is Houston’s?
If so, they carry the DK Collection.
And the staff is lovely.. 🙂
P
Yes, in Houston – thanks for the info. I’m probably heading down to the Galleria on a sniffing expedition in a few weeks and I’ll definitely keep my eyes peeled. Do you know if they carry the Chanel Exclusifs? I know that they were telling me that they were going to get Beige in the last time I was there, but I really want to sniff the No. 19. I’m trying to work up the nerve to head over to the Hermes boutique and sniff over there, too.
They have the Chanel exclusifs. Be warned that my info is a little outdated as I was there last october.
They also have the Tom Ford private collection, along with other great stuff, in a small booth downstairs (the DK, Chanel and Lártisan are on the ground floor)
Cheers! 🙂
Politely butting in – I was there in late January and they had the Exclusifs then. Enjoy your sniffage!
I’ve been wanting an iris fragrance, but besides the Prada (which I gave my mom) none of them are easily accessible. I would either have to make a trip to Neiman Marcus or order from TPC. I am probably too intimidated to go into Neiman Marcus, though, so I’m more likely to order samples.
Oh – don’t be too intimidated to go to Neimans. I felt the same way, but the beauty counter people are generally perfectly lovely. They know that if us poor peons are going to be able to buy anything in the store, it will be in their department.
I too felt the same way, but really wanted to try some of the L’Artisans so I finally went. The lady who helped me at the counter was so nice, if not a bit overenthusiastic and my arms were covered in many different perfumes. They were also happy to let me wander and sniff without bothering me too much.
That’s good to know. I can’t tolerate being hounded by SA. I know I am too likely to give into buying something I don’t really need/want. I should face my fear though 🙂
Oh gosh…the SAs at mine are not intimidating at all.
Robin – yours is the one in Chevy Chase, right? I’ve been hesitant to go because of intimidation.
No way!!! That’s my NM (and Saks, and Bloomie’s) too! And they’re very friendly, promise! They let me bring in my own sample vials and make samples of Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue.
No, but I do go to that one when I’m visiting family & they’re usually nice. The Saks nearby, I don’t love so much.
It sounds really lovely, and I’m already a fan of a bunch of the Karan special fragrances, so I would expect they did a pretty good job with this one.
It sounds pretty to me too… and the price is certainly right! I like the opaque black glass with the purple label (purple is my favorite color, natch) but something about the bottle shape makes it seem like it should be used for something more utilitarian. Like maybe a fancy bottle for water from Starbucks, or very pricey salon hairspray! Lol
Yes…the bottle makes me think of shampoo.
Concur on the `shampoo` bottle design! I think this is a cost-efficient package job. With DK`s love of nature and sculpture, you`d think something a little more eye-worthy would be offered. Please try AG`s Heure Exquise for a dominate iris beauty-of-a-scent!!
Yep. But I guess we should be glad they’re keeping these in production at all…I don’t think any of the ones I love (Chaos, Black Cashmere, etc) were huge sellers. If this makes it cost effective to keep making them, I’ll happily live with it!
Agreed! You know, it’s not that the price is unreasonable, but for that amount of money I would like a pretty bottle on my nightstand, please. Plus I’ve never thought of iris as a very “purple” note.
When DK’s husband died a few years ago , she discontinued all those scents in his honor , because he was the designer of the fantastic sculptural bottles .
I’m glad she re-issued them , and in his honor she should ressurect those bottles too !! ( i’m sure they were expensive to produce ! )
AMEN!!!! 🙂
They did do a nice job. I don’t think it’s going to necessarily satisfy a perfumista iris freak, but it’s a pretty scent.
Will def have to try this. My latest WOW Iris are the Van Cleef & A Bois d’Iris, SL Iris Silver Mist, and LaPausa. 🙂
This, for me, was not that kind of wow at all. But it’s nicely done.
Oooohh I will have to look for this when I’m at NM next week. Iris is not my favorite note, but I’m slowly trying to develop an appreciation. The price is soooooo right, too!
Hope they’ll have it by then!
I’m reading about so much Iris these days & I’ve yet to try any of them. I suppose I need to hit up some stores this weekend and at least take a sniff of some Prada Infusion d’Iris to see what I’m missing.
That’s another nice one.
I have a hopeless weakness for iris fragrances, although nothing has yet beaten the two Bois d’Irises for me. I do like the sound of the notes on this one, and I think the DK single-note scents have all been very wearable. I don’t quite understand what they are; they’re obviously not actually soli-things, although it’s just occurred to me that there’s a list of notes for this one, doh! I don’t think there have been notes-lists for Lavender, Jasmine, etc?
I didn’t pay all that much attention to the Essences, but offhand can’t remember seeing a list of notes. Still, even a “solifore” invariably has more than that one flower, and of course it has other base & top notes.
Sounds interesting, but perhaps too transparent? (Zazie, if you’re reading, this is the type of perfume I’d probably use TWENTY sprays of 😉
I do love so many different iterations of iris because I find it lends a very calming, slightly earthy effect to fragrance. As I’ve mentioned many times, my favorite is the rooty, woody Bois d’Iris by The Different Company.
I’m wondering, R., I know you certainly must love VCA Bois d’Iris much more than this, but in terms of lightness and transparency, how would you compare the two? VCA to me is quite light as well. Perhaps it’s not that way on you.
Thanks for reviewing this so soon! I’ve been looking forward to hearing about it. Enjoy your weekend!
Joe did you dab or spay the VCA Bois d’Iris? Sprayed it’s not transparent at all, and you know me, I find EVERYTHING transparant. HA!
Yes, I’ve sprayed it… and it was much better sprayed, but still a light fragrance (not anywhere near as light as Infusion though!).
TWENTY… Holy moly, bud.
Oh, I was exaggerating! Maybe 15…. 😀
I don’t find the VCA so light, but on me, this is much lighter. And paler. And not as long lasting.
Adding — if you try it, do come back and tell me how you’d rate the lightness. Most things, I wear 1 spray, but might apply more if I’m reviewing something. This, I ended up with probably 8 sprays while reviewing it just to build up enough strength. For me, that’s an awful lot.
8 as opposed to your usual 1 ??? Egad….what Joe said: 20 sprays!
Sounds like a couple sprays of something “big” like AT Une Rose Chypree would throw your nose on the ground and stomp on it. I’ll never forget the day both J and I applied “a few spritzes” of AT URC and the got in the car…..had to drive with all the windows down…..
“Few spritzes of URC”! One dab from my sample lasts allllll day.
yeah, I think we had sillage that reached Wisconsin…..
yes, we did learn a lesson that day. 😉
Thanks for the review, R. I was curious about this. Would you say it is wispier (or more understated) even than the prada infusion d’iris?
I was going to ask the same question, would love to know how it compares to Id’I.
To me, about the same, but I’m going to be curious what others think.
On the other hand, the Prada lasts forever on me, wispy as it is. This doesn’t.
sigh….an iris scent….any iris scent….they call to me.
Iris is one of my favorite notes in perfume, VC&A Bois d’Iris is my fave, but lordy, lordy, I still need me some of all the others. You all can start placing bets on how long it takes me to buy some….Goodness knows there won’t be any for free-sniffin around here.
I’d try to get a sample first, really!
I just dug out all my Iris scents to distract me from the new bottle on the block…..and I realize how nothing can compare to VC&A Bd’I.
Whew, the inflamation of my lemming glands seems to be receding a bit…..
you know I was just wondering…..I’m so spineless…do you think there’s such a thing as a perfume-jellyfish??
I think of you as more of a perfume octopus, Daisy! 😉
(And I say that with deep, delighted gratitude, have just received the wonderful Balsamo da Mecca split – thank you!!!!!)
Perfume Octopus? hmmm…I like it! spineless yet so grabby…that totally works for me!
u r welcome! BdMecca is quite the incense, yes?
Does it remind anyone but me, of Champagne de Bois?
I haven’t tried CdB yet, but it sounds like I must!
I need to buy a few iris frags. too, sorry off topic.. I just needed to know if any of you ordered Kelly Caleche eau de toilette from Perfume 1. com? and if you have, did yours have a yellowish color to it? I just opened my new bottle, and I feel so sad the juice looks yellowish not pink like the picture add, however it seems to smell ok. what should I do?
Uh-oh. Kelly Caleche is definitely supposed to be pink. perfume1.com is not one of the more reputable sites, I believe. If you don’t think the smell is off, then I suppose it doesn’t matter, but if it does smell off, then perhaps you should try to get your money back.
I’m not home so can’t check…
Thanks for your input, I’ll see if I can return it back and get my $ back….first visit the nearest NM in my area and check out the new DK, and also test the KC tester and compare both. I knew I could count on someone here to give me a word of advice. Thanks a bunch: )
Kelly Caleche is supposed to be pinkish—and I’ve found parfum1 to be pretty decent—and they will take a return. I would contact them and see if they’ll send you a return shipping label and also send a replacement bottle but checking first to make sure it’s pink like it’s supposed to be. It’s not the regular Caleche is it? that is a light golden yellow….
oh —I sent you an email about Irises…
no its not, it’s one in the pink box the Kelly Caleche eau de toilette. I’ll be true to you I have never bought perfumes so reasonably priced like perfum 1, at 75% off and an additional 20% off !!!!someone needs to stop me, I’ve done like 3 orders in the last 2 weeks, I’m just having a blast!, now can’t wait to test the VCA..thank to you Daisy, .like Robin says More bang for your buck. (LuckyScent) here I come. and Thanks you for your input….Daisy!!!
I had such a busy week and see I missed a review for a fragrance I’ve been so curious about. Your review has actually calmed my lemming a bit. I have a ravenous type of scent eating chemistry – the beautiful 28 La Pausa barely registers on my skin. *sigh* I still want to try the VC&A iris – I think I have it on my TPC wishlist – so next time, that’s going on my order. Thanks for the review Robin!
I adore 28 La Pausa, but I have to apply that one lavishly too. Do try the VCA…more bang for your buck.
If it’s really soft it’d be a change from the other fragrances in the collection – I find them really strong!
Yes, it is something of a change! And would say it’s different in character too.
This sounds way better the Silver Mist, which, excusez-moi, scarred the *** out of me.
I am really really sorry that I swapped my HIRIS, I guess some years later I would appreciate the feirceness of the scent more; I got a huge bottle of the meditteranean garden so it so it was not the biggest loss.
I consider iris – and I mean iris in the sense of rotten, earthy, root-y, a scnet that’s hard to get. After one year considering myself a wannabe-perfumista I have a sympathy or let’s say, appreciation for iris.
So a nice pleasent iris will surely find fans over tehre, at least with that price tag! I’d love myself some exclusive Chanel, but I would never spent that much on it.
It is probably hard to get. This one isn’t though.