New York retailer Odin has launched three new fragrances: 01 Nomad, 02 Owari and 03 Century. These scents inhabit the territory between modern, ‘fresh’ colognes and more traditional, rich and spicy perfumes; this “middle path” presents fragrances that are gauzy, quiet, warm and on the sweet side.
(juniper berries, cedar leaf, palmarosa, black pepper, tonka beans, sandalwood, bergamot, heliotrope, grey musk)
Tonka bean seems to be the fragrance note of the moment in men’s colognes, replacing the (over)popular violet leaf (Ta! Ta! Old Thing!) of the last few years. Is there a surplus of tonka beans? An especially scrumptious-smelling harvest? A new “tonka” aroma-chemical available at a great price-point? 01 Nomad is a sleek tonka bean-centered fragrance with top notes of juniper and palmarosa (smelling like a sweet straw-citrus peel accord) and cedar and soft heliotrope in the base. The fragrance is well blended and there is not a lot of development from the top notes through the dry-down, but the perfume is so pleasant, smells so good, I’ll forgo distinct top, heart, and base phases. I’d describe 01 Nomad as a “masculine vanilla” scent with great lasting power.
(mandarin, grapefruit leaf, pepper, Tonkin musk, bergamot, amyris wood, neroli, cedar and golden amber)
If the non-stop, multi-fragrance-collection launches have exhausted (and annoyed) you, I’ll save you some time with the Odin line: try 02 Owari first to experience its peppery, green-citrus opening (verging on “tomato leaf”) and its pungent, long-lasting tangerine note. Neroli is discernible starting in the fragrance’s mid-development and it’s accompanied by a dab of sweet musk; an interesting, powdery and tart musk-citrus accord appears during the dry-down. 02 Owari is a deluxe sport fragrance that replaces the genre’s usual raspy bergamot-lemon opening with delicious-smelling green and tangerine notes. 02 Owari has good lasting power for a citrus-y cologne.
(silver birch, cypress, mint, myrrh, vetiver, patchouli and moss, black musk, amber)
03 Century is a super-soft (talc-y) fragrance; Odin classifies this perfume as a chypre, but I don’t detect moss at all. (03 Century’s birch is also faint and provides no smoky-leather aromas.) 03 Century starts with minty-menthol notes and myrrh; it’s sweet — in the way old-fashioned barbershop fragrances are sweet. 03 Century’s vetiver and patchouli notes “blur” to create a masculine amber-like aroma in mid-development that slowly morphs into an Old Spice-Meets-Musk base — clove/cinnamon and vanillic notes come to the fore. 03 Century is the most staid fragrance in the collection and has excellent lasting power.
The Odin fragrances are well made and far superior to recent, flashier designer launches (The D&G Fragrance Anthology for one). The Odin line was developed by perfumers Kevin Verspoor (01 Nomad, 03 Century) and Pierre-Constantin Guéros (02 Owari).
Odin 01 Nomad, 02 Owari and 03 Century will be available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette; for buying information see the listing for Odin under Perfume Houses.
What do ravens have to do with “Odin”? Read here.