Philippe, who "started a long love affair with perfume" after reading Perfume by Patrick Süskind, is looking for a new citrus-y and/or fresh summer fragrance. He can pay up to $120. He has access to reasonably good perfume shops, but would prefer not to buy online. Here is what we know about Philippe:
He's in his teens, and he lives in Quebec, about an hour from Montreal.
He loves to read, especially old classics. He also loves food.
He also loves sports: he's on swimming and volleyball teams and takes tennis lessons.
He dreams of launching a perfume line.
Philippe likes moderately foody fragrances and orientals. He doesn't generally go for florals but he does like mimosa. He loves citrus. Other favorite notes include frankincense, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, cypress, ginger, coriander, cinnamon, melon, mandarin, musc, lime, fig and lemon.
Philippe's first perfume was Hermès Élixir des Merveilles. He also owns Annick Goutal Musc Nomade and L'Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine. Other perfumes he likes: Hermessence Ambre Narguilé, Vétiver Tonka, Osmanthe Yunnan and Vanille Galante; L'Artisan Fleur de Liane and Timbuktu; and Diptyque's Philosykos. He also likes Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Serge Noire and Datura Noir, and he's a "proud fan" of Hermès Un Jardin après la Mousson.
Phillipe does not like lavender, "sport fragrances", calone, aquatic fragrances, coffee, leather, patchouli, or more than a smattering of tonka bean. Perfumes he dislikes include Issey Miyake Eau d'Issey, Chanel Allure Homme Sport, Armani Code and Armani Attitude, Thierry Mugler A*Men, Bond. N.9 New Haarlem, L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses, Méchant Loup and Patchouli Patch.
Here are some of the fragrances Philippe has tried in his search for the perfume summer fragrance:
L'Artisan Parfumeur Navegar: not strong enough.
L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa pour Moi: nice, but maybe too linear.
Acqua di Parma Colonia: his Dad wears it.
Diptyque Eau de Lierre: nice, but somewhat flat.
Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée: lovely, but maybe a tad too woody for a summer fragrance.
Hermès Un Jardin sur le Nil: he did not like it much.
Annick Goutal L'Eau d'Hadrien: nice but smells like déjà vu.
Annick Goutal Petite Chérie: too feminine, but if there were no pear, it would've been perfect.
Bond no. 9 Eau de New York: he didn't like it and doesn't know why.
What say you?
Note: image is letter box by leo reynolds at flickr; some rights reserved.
The one that comes to mind immediately is Dior’s Escale a Portofino. Very definitely citrus-y and fresh on the top notes with the feel of a traditional eau de cologne, but with some softness and even a bit of a gourmand feel delivered by almond and orange blossom. The drydown’s a bit woody with cypress and cedar. It’s absolutely wonderful and has better longevity than you would expect from the top notes, but is reasonably enough priced to allow reapplication without guilt
Guerlain Cologne du 68! slightly gourmand citrus. Also agree with Escale a Portofino – that bitter almond is wonderful.
I thought of Kenzo’s Winter flowers, woody mimosa..
At least take a whiff of Eau Sauvage from Dior….
I second Dior Eau Sauvage and also recommend Lalique White and Laura Tonatto Albi – both of which have a citrusy feel to them but last longer on the skin then most citrus laden fragrances. Although not very popular on perfume blogs, another fresh and citrusy fragrance (albeit a tad on the soapy side….) is Prada’s Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger.
Good Luck
Lalique Encre Noire is phenomenal and should be available at Holt Renfrew in Montreal for a good deal less than $120.
How about Parfums de Nicolai New York ((bergamot, Sicilian lemon, cloves, thyme, cinnamon, black pepper, pimento, oak moss, vetiver, amber). I got a sample of this for my husband, and it was a masculine citrus but also just a little bit sweet.
I also thought of Bond No. 9 Little Italy, which to me isn’t really a complex fragrance but still nice, and Carthusia Mediterraneo, which starts out with a strong, sourish lemon and then on me turns into a sort of summery black tea scent.
Agree on Little Italy–I love that one, in all of it’s Tang glory.
Also, what’s the name of that one, Eau d’Italie? The people who did Paestum Rose? That might be a good one. And it’s been a while since I smelled it, but Chanel Cologne was a nice citrus.
How about Dior Homme Cologne Blanche? Fresh, vaguely gourmandish (almond), with mimosa, vanilla and citrus. A little pricey at Holt Renfrew or Ogilvie, but you get a vat. Hey, Philippe, love your fave notes list!
I was going to suggest Guerlain’s Cologne du 68, so I’ll second Pigoletto’s vote. Perhaps also Prada Infusion d’Iris–not markedly citrusy, but very fresh–and even more so Prada’s new l’eau d’Ambree, which I find more citrusy. Or my personal fav for summer when I need relief from the heat via citrus: l’Artisan’s The Pour Un Ete.
Absolutely, Eau Sauvage is a must-sniff classic. Escale a Portofino is also a very attractive citrus masculine (I find Eau Sauvage to be less unisex.)
Two scents similar to UJEM but not nearly so woody: Miller et Bertaux #3 or TokyoMilk Ex Libris. For something a bit more citrusy (lemon), Creative Universe’s Element of Surprise. And for a more foody/gourmand take: Montale’s Soleil de Capri.
I’m going to put a vote in for Diptyque’s L’eau de Tarocco: beautiful blood orange/grapefruit opening, cinnamon, frankincense, a touch of ginger and a cool, fresh cedar. It’s gorgeous.
Philippe, I’m so happy to hear of a teenager with such excellent, non-Axe taste! Seriously, you’ve got a heck of a list there.
A few random suggestions: FM Bigarade Concentree (lovely citrus with a hint of warm spices), Terre d’Hermes, and Heeley Cardinal for a kicky, slightly citrus-y frankincense. MPG Eau pour le Jeune Homme is another nice orange/neroli, but with a slightly odd, medicinal note.
Bigarade Concentree. Enthusiastically agree!
i would love to know where you can get FM anything for under $120
The 3-pack of 10ml travel sprays sells for $85.
Is that $120 canadian?? i would assume so. Anyway, my picks for cheap mainstream(but still good) citrus are:
Hugo Boss – Pure
Bvlgari – Aqua Marine
John Varvatos -Artisan
Lacoste – Challenge
Shiseido – Zen Homme
Dolce & Gabbanna – #1 Le Bateleur
Gianfranco Ferre – Acqua Azzura
And for expensive niche:
Parfum D’Empire – Iskander
Comme Des Garcons – Soda
Parfums De Nicolai – Balle de Match
Jo Malone does a few citrus things that might fit the bill. Their Lime Basil & Mandarin in particular might be right up your street as you mention liking both lime and mandarin. Perfect for summer.
I would suggest Neil Morris fragrances. I love Afire for Fall/Winter.
Bonjour! Hi!
I just subscribed(I’m not going to school today) and I have seen your comments. I just read the Dior- Escale à Portofino review and sounds great! Unfortunately, I do not know any store that carries Parfums de Nicolaï line, Miller et Bertaux, and, the only store that carries the FM line in whole Canada is in Vancouver! But do not worry, I’m going at New York for Thanksgiving. Thank you!
Philippe, Ogilvie used to carry Nicolai scents, but they may not anymore. There seems to be a problem with distribution at Nicolai – not terribly organized anywhere in North America, but particuarly in Canada. Also, seconding the L’eau de Torroco suggestion above.
Philippe, I also highly recommend you try scents in the Nicolai line. I think you’ll like them! If you’ll be in NY, I this Aedes de Venustas carries them (?). Good luck, and let us know what you find! (Also funny that you’re looking for a summer scent when winter is about to hit…I’m in Maine and it’s getting cold!!!)
I was wrong about Aedes. Try New London Pharmacy in NYC for Nicolai…
Is there such a thing as a winter citrus?
Philippe, The Perfume Shoppe here in Vancouver carries Parfums de Nicolai and the owner Nasrin is wonderful to talk to. She has a sample program and ships regularly and you’ll get marvelous help — and more than a few other suggestions to help you find your citrus-y, summery scent.
Here’s the link:
http://www.theperfumeshoppe.com/Scripts/default.asp
Just off the top of my head, you also might want to try and track down some Zagara from Santa Maria Novella. My notes:
A classic ultra-fresh cologne-like opening of lemon, herb and orange blossom, with maybe a bit of musk or vetiver underneath. Not at all complex or long-lasting, but perfect refreshment on a hot summer day. Very appealing.
Good luck and happy hunting!
Hi, Philippe…
I like a number of the comments, and am particularly a fan of the Dior Cologne Blanche, which with its almond note seems like it would link with some of your other faves while still being “fresh.” Terre de Hermes is refreshing/different, as is The Different Company Sel et Vetiver (you can order a sample online).
Offbeat suggestion: Balmain de Balmain is refreshing, and you clearly aren’t influenced by the marketing department ideas of who a scent is appropriate for! (Yay!)
There are so many wonderful citrus frags out there and I agree on so many that have been mentioned, especially Dior Portofino, Diptyque Tarocco, and JM Lime Basil Mandarin… and Terre d’Hermès is a MUST try!
I’d also add:
– Diptyque Oyedo
– Chanell Allure Homme ÉDITION BLANCHE (very different from the Homme Sport)
– L’Eau de l’Artisan
– Comme des Garçons Grapefruit (a personal favorite)
– Bond No. 9 Brooklyn
– Bond No. 9 Little Italy
How long does that Comme des Garcons Grapefruit last? I tried the Lime from the same series and it was weak and shortlived.
I have still never tried the Lime or the Lemon, but the Grapefruit really has decent lasting power on me (couple of hours). I find I need to refresh almost everything after 2-3 hours anyway though. I recently bought a second bottle after draining my first if that tells you anything.
Philipe, I really like Bergamotte 22 by Le Labo. The fragance has a green and bitter (grapefruit) opening. On the dry down you can smell some very settle woods and animalics that give, what could otherwise seem a cold fragance, a warm touch. It is much different to Dior Eau Sauvage and L’Eau de l’Artisan. It doesn’t have the smell of an old mans perfume and the citrus doesn’t smell cheap like it seemed to me with Eau Sauvage. It seems very simple and yet not at all boring.
The only downside to this fragance is the poor lasting power, but I think it is okay for a citrus fragance. I also really enjoy Timbuktu. Bergamotte 22 however is something I can wear every day, without getting fed up with it.
It is not exactly in your price range, but you can get it in a 15ml travel spray as well.
two citrus fragrances I love — Guerlain’s Eau de Cologne Imperiale (sometimes just called Eau Imperiale?) is gorgeous — lime and pink grapefruit — and of course Hermes Eau d’Orange Verte. I find the latter to be particularly long-lasting, and the Eau d’orange Verte Concentree (sorry, no accents aigues on my keyboard) even more so.
How about Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche? It’s got a crisp citrus opening, and musk/incense/frankincense drydown. It is very nice, and has pretty good staying power without being a nose blaster. I think Robin reviewed it on NST back in the spring, can’t remember which month.
Good luck and have fun sniffing!
Food and literature immediately made me think of the Histoires de Parfums line, many of the scents in which are inspired by literary figures… so on that track, you should seek out..
1876 – inspired by “Collette”, a hesperide gourmand, tangerine and lemon on a base of vanilla and caramel.
1828 – inspired by “Jules Verne”, an aromatic hesperide, lemon, mandarin etc plus nutmeg, black pepper, over a base of vetiver and incese.
Good luck Phillipe!
Thierry Mugler Cologne is easy to find and wonderful. And while it’s not exactly a “fresh summery” scent, I think you might like Etro Shaal Nur, a lighter incense-y oriental that feels nice in summer.
How about Eau de Cedrat (or another cologne) from Guerlain? There’s a stand-alone store in Montreal at 1350 avenue Greene. It’s a surprise that the Montreal Holt Renfrew doesn’t carry Frederic Malle…