This week we're helping Mona. Mona says that everything she knows about perfume "could fill one of those slips inside Chinese fortune cookies". She wants to find a daily perfume that "lingers like background music, something that unfolds nicely". She doesn't want anything bland or generic. She has excellent access to perfume stores, but she can't shop online so no obscure brands, please. She's willing to spend whatever she needs to.
Here is what we know about Mona:
She's a college freshman studying to be a special ed teacher.
She travels a lot (right now she's in Saudi Arabia) and she'd like a perfume that reminds her of different places.
Mona says she's usually cool & calm, but is very passionate about the things she likes.
Mona is open to most notes, but especially likes vanilla, sandalwood, rose, ginger, teas, cardamom, smoky woodsy fragrances, amber and jasmine. She likes warm scents. A few perfumes she has liked in the past include Christian Dior Diorissimo ("epitomizes my native city, Islamabad, Pakistan for me"), Lancôme Tresor ("smells like a Greek fruit orchard and violin music"), Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb ("very edible"), various Arabian oudh perfumes from local companies, and Christian Dior Midnight Poison ("used to be a favorite, but it's too dark and dramatic for daily use").
Mona dislikes too much citrus ("leaves the perfume too sanitized") and/or too much of a "chemical/alcohol smell", as in Dior Addict. Other scents that don't work: Chanel No 5 ("lifeless"), Yves Saint Laurent Cinema ("too showy for me to carry off), The Body Shop's White Musk ("like moonlight, but too monotonous"), Yves Saint Laurent Opium ("masterpiece..but way too heavy for me at this point"), Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, DKNY Red Be Delicious ("meh") and Estee Lauder Pure White Linen ("fresh & pleasant, but too sanitized").
What say you?
Note: image is Post Box: Old post box in San Gimignano (Italy) [cropped] by Luca Zappa at flickr; some rights reserved.
If her travels include Dubai or London – how about Ormonde Woman?
If Mona likes Diorissimo she would enjoy Envy EDT for a light, unfolding daytime scent. She might also try Givenchy’s Ysatis. A trip to Hermes would give her a number of Hermessences to sniff – and to get samples of – I’m thinking of Ambre Narguile (warm) and Osmanthe Yunnan (tea). For a resinous Saudi Arabian feel, there’s Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan, and for wood there’s any one of his Bois series – my favorite being Bois de Violette, but since she likes vanilla, there’s Bois Vanille.
Mona-
Donna Karen Black Cashmere might work for you as well as Jo Malone Datk Amber and Ginger Lily. If you don’t mind wearing masculines, Boucheron’s Jaiper Homme is a nice, refined spicy vanilla, that smells quite mysterious on a woman.
Good Luck,
Marko
I have a feeling Mona might like Tom Ford’s Black Orchid Voile de Fleur – it’s warm and rich, with a warm milk accord, Vanilla Tears, a spicy Lily and woods. The bergamot isn’t too prominent -so, it’s not sanitized in any way. She might enjoy the original Black Orchid in cooler months, too.
I’ll second the Ormonde Jayne Woman mentioned above and add Serge Lutens Un Lys — which to me is like Diorissimo with a smidgen of vanilla — and SL 5 o’Clock au Gingembre for the ginger tea aspect. I’d recommend Tauer’s L’Air au Desert Marocain as well, which hits a lot of Mona’s favorite notes (and is utterly fabulous besides!), but it can be hard to find if you can’t get online. Another thought: L’Artisan’s Tea for Two, a sweet, smoky tea scent. Good luck — and have fun!
Hello!
Great recs above!
I would like to add to the list the new Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Floriental. It has a wonderful black tea accord in the drydown. The only notes listed are: black tea, violet, and ivy leaves. It does not get a lot of love in the reviews but I think it’s a great scent.
Another one I’d like to suggest is Badgley Mischka Couture EdP. The notes: Top notes incorporate plum, blackberry and pear nectar, heart is composed of jasmine, gardenia and violet, while base notes include elegant patchouli, black vetiver and sensual musk.
Enjoy sniffing and sampling.
~Dawn
L’Artisan Vanilia?
This gives me a chance to promote my poor underestimated darling Stylessence by Jil Sander. Notes include cardamom, hinoki wood and amber. It has a sweet/dry quality I find fascinating.
Its summer and hot, so nothing really heavy
for travel memories : montale soleil de capri
for a classic niche fragrance le parfum de therese
beautiful as well kenzo leau d’indigo
Also second badgley Couture
When I read the notes she likes, I immediately thought of
Oops, sorry!
At any rate, I thought of two fragrances: Jasmin de Nuit by The Different Company (it has yammy notes of cardamom and ambre) and the smoky Tea for Two by L’Artisan. I don’t know how widely available they are. Both are warm and spicy to me.
Another warm and spicy and easy to find everywhere is Narciso Rodriguez For Her.
I was also going to recommend Narcisso Rodriguez Her and Jasmine de Nuit
I thought of L’Artisan’s Timbuktu, it has a certain clean smokiness that is lovely and warm, but with a freshness that would be perfect for summer. Its notes are: green mango, pink pepper berries, cardamom, karo karounde flower, smokey incense of papyrus wood, patchouli, myrrh, vetiver (from luckyscent.com).
Where to start? Some excellent suggestions already, including Ormonde Jayne Woman and Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily — both deep and interesting, but light-textured enough so Mona will feel as though she’s wearing them and not the other way around.
I think she could well find many, many Serge Lutens to be quietly stunning, Borneo 1834 among others, with its deliciously woody combination of cardamom, white flowers, cocoa and cannabis.
A lovely rich sandalwood-plus scent is Parfumerie Generale’s Cadjmere.
I see Mona likes roses. Rose Kashmirie from Parfums de Rosine is a spice-laced beauty which might give her a real sense of place. If she already likes Midnight Poison and Tresor, she might adore Lady Vengeance from Juliet Has a Gun, which is a nice sideways step to edgy niche while still being in her comfort zone.
A beautiful, womanly amber scent is Estee Lauder Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang. The Ylang keeps it fresh and original, and it’s one of those melt-into-your-scent, anytime scents. The ylang might well evoke a sense of place for Mona as well.
You’re in good hands here, Mona.
I second the EL Amber Ylang Ylang. It’s a lovely warm scent that has great staying power.
I could go on and on, but let me just add Ambre Narguile from the Hermes Hermessences Collection. Warm and delicious, it lingers on and on in a quietly beautiful, top-quality way.
Okay, one more idea. Why didn’t I think of it before? Oudhs!!! Saudi Arabia is crawling with them, at prices that would make me envy-green. They epitomize warm and woody. Here, the Montale line features some gorgeous oudhs in their Aoud releases; among the prettiest for this time of year are White Aoud (rose, saffron, cardamom, amber) and Aoud Velvet (orange blossom, tiare, vanilla, tonka bean and Mysore sandalwood).
One crucial caveat, Mona: the merest drop will do you!!
I second the suggestion of Montale’s White Aoud. I just got a sample of it and it’s soft and beautiful. I’d also like to suggest Pacifica’s Tibetan Mountain Temple. I’m pretty sure you can find it at Sephora now, so it’s easily available (I got mine at Whole Foods) and it has ginger, cardamon, dark incense, and (I’m pretty sure) vanilla. It’s wonderful and it’s wonderful that it’s so cheap!
I would suggest Bvlgari Omnia – Masala tea, spices and woods. One of my absolute favorites! Some people are anosmic to some of the notes though…
I would also try Kenzo Amour Indian Holi. It has rose, white tea, and woods that I think you’ll enjoy. I think Robin has reviews of both fragrances on here. Both are warm scents and are readily available at perfume counters.
Two easy to find scents that might work are Bvlgari Black and Bvlgari Omnia. Black is bit odder, with black tea, a few florals and something slightly rubbery/powdery that sounds strange but is really beautiful. One of my favorite scents. (I can find it at places like Sephora and Nordstrom, but it is sometimes on the men’s side). I love Omnia because it is warm/spicy, which you like, but is still really light and sheer.
Ooh, and you might like Dior Homme, too. Again, I can always find it at Sephora on the men’s side.
Kenzo Amour is another good one.
Happy hunting!
Second the Bulgari Black!
I like warm scents too. I see they’ve already been mentioned, but I thought of L’Artisan Tea for Two and Timbuktu. Also, a vanilla I really like is La Maison de la Vanille’s Vanille Noire du Mexique — warm, spicy, a bit powdery. You might also try LL’s L de Lempicka, it’s warm, salty and sweet. And another vote for Bvlgari Omnia.
Mitsouko! Maybe not the best for summer, but I get away with applying very lightly. It is warm, spicy, and unfolds beautifully with great staying power. Also it made me think of that website posted on here a while back that gave you perfume recommendations for travel from city to city. I got Mitsouko for pretty much every city… and it did take me from the US to the UAE very well!
I’ll second or third the Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain mentioned above – just amazing! My other rec’s are the MDCI Enlevement au Serail that is so beautiful, spicy, and creamy — if applied lightly it would last and last and be very beautiful for day. Also the Boucheron – the original femme – in the blue saphire top bottle – just gorgeous, rich oriental that has nice lasting power and can be applied lightly for day. Since you like spices so much the Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea is very beautiful rich tobacco leaves and spices. Amouage Ubar has a very rich and lovely combination of white flowers and oriental notes that may work for you for day – again, applied lightly. Although you dislike citrus, the Annick Goutal Mandragore is predominantly tea, pepper and floral notes with a hint of bergamot at the opening that is just great for day. — Good luck!
Ann, I thought certainly you’d suggest Safari.
Very warm, with an ambery feel (though that note isn’t listed) with rose, jasmine and sandalwood. It was my signature scent when I was Mona’s age, and I thought it was a very complex frag for a mainstream. It lists citrus notes, but I really don’t get any of that, and it’s an edp so lasting power is great. It’s been discontinued, but I still find it at discounters (both online or places like TJ Maxx or Perfumania).
Otherwise, seconding Timbuktu or Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, or maybe Les Nez Let Me Play the Lion or Stephanie de Saint-Aignan Berberiades.
Hey E! – yes, of course, Safari, my new chypre love. My older sister used to wear it when it came out, so of course, I totally ignored it. It is very beautiful though – better late than never – and I found bottles easily on-line and at TJ Maxx! It just didn’t occur to me here, but you are right, excellent choice!
Oh, yes, definitely l’Air! And maybe Even Maroc Pour Elle, also a Tauer. But they may be hard to find in shops, although I know he sells in Europe.
Hi Tama – I almost suggested Maroc too – thanks to you! My sample soon became a goner – so beautiful! So much fun!
Glad you liked it – more on the way soon.
I want to add Safran Troublant (by L’Artisan) to the list. It has rose, sandalwood, vanilla in addition to the spiciness of the saffron. I think that it fits the “background music” analogy without being boring.
So many excellent suggestions, Mona, I’m sure you’ll have fun testing.
I totally agree with Ormonde Jayne Woman, Tauer’s L’Air au Desert, and what about Un The pour un Ete, and Floris’ Night Scented Jasmine?
Enjoy!
Bond No9 – Chinatown
Etro Shaal Nur
Amouage Lyric
and a wild card …. Ungaro Diva.
I think my knowledge of perfume might fill two Chinese fortune cookie slips at best, but given she likes vanilla, amber, ginger, perhaps Musc Ravageur? That is one of my favorite scents.
Maybe they are hard to find, but I feel two matches for Mona:
Lancome Cyclades, is very warm, evoking places and background music in a sunny garden;
Salvador Dali Dalissime, a very special distinct sweetness.
If you are in Saudi Arabia, or even if you are not!, what about the Amouage line? Lyric for Women is a beautiful rose fragrance and seems to me an ideal perfume that unfolds like music in the background. It would also be an ideal reminder of your Middle Eastern travels.
Like Mona, I love fragrances that evoke specific places and/or cultures. I think all the ones I would have suggested have been mentioned. But let me add my voice for L’Artisan Dzonghka, Timbuktu, Tea for Two, and Safran Troublant; Etro Shaal Nur; Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily; Hermes Ambre Narguile, Osmanthe Yunnan, and Vetiver Tonka; Boucheron (original for women); and Bulgari Black. Mona, if you can find Lubin Idole or the Parfumerie Generale fragrances (lots of great ones), I highly recommend them, too.
So many great suggestions so far! Definitely check out the Ormonde Jayne line. They are all wonderful. My favorites are Orris Noir, Tolu, and Ta’if. Other suggestions are the Guerlains: Jicky and Shalimar. Such wonderful classics. Sous le Vent is a very assertive fragrance.
Other Suggestions:
Iris Taizo by Parfumerie Generale
Chypre Fatale by Guerlain
Must de Cartier (pure Parfum)
Feminite du Bois by Serge Lutens
Miller et Bertaux Parfum Trouve #1
Good Luck!
Ta’if was the first OJ I thought of, although pretty much all of them are lovely.
Another possibility is Rochas Tocade, with its rosy geranium/vanilla/amber vibe. And it’s probably easier to find that Ormonde Jaynes.
First thing when I saw sandalwood was Chanel Bois des Iles. I’m not a No. 5 lover either, but I love BdI.
I agree with everyone else’s suggestions to try the Ormonde Jayne line–I think you might like Ta’if and Tolu as well as Ormonde Woman. Also maybe Caron Parfum Sacre?
Thank you all so much!!!!!!
There is loads to choose from, I now have an extensive list!
I just tried the Amouage line {thank u utahfish, santemon, AnneS} & luv it. L’Air du Desert is FABULOUS too..
The whole list has been copied & printed to keep in my purse.
Hard time time deciding, but I guess it’s a one-at-a-time thing for proper perfume experts? One a month I guess…expensive hobby though!…thank you, perfume masters!~
More accessible to purchase:
1. “Sensuous” Estee Lauder- Buttery woods, very diffusive and subtle. Has a citrusy-toasty quality to it, with a subtle honey lingering in back.
2. “Spider Lily” India Hicks with Crabtree & Evelyn – Has a dry sandiness to it that’s reminiscent of salt on skin. Has some unusual, floral-spicy notes in it that might remind you of travels.
3. “Neonatura” Cocoa by Yves Rocher — Like dusky chocolate served on teakwood.
4. “Gold” by Donna Karen. Might not be carried in all department stores. — Creamy lily, spicy greens and something evoking oxidized metal. It’s much lusher and warmer than all that sounds and the lily smells fresh, like freshly picked.
Less accessible to purchase –
1. “Douce Amere” by Serge Lutens. While I agree with suggestions of “5 O’Clock Gingembre”, I think she might appreciate the nutty/savory undertones of DA, with it’s slight mentholated kick. If she’s really brave, she should try “Serge Noir” which reminds me of licorice, ebony woods, wood smoke and sea air.
2. “Bois de Paradis” by Parfums DelRae. This is my new pick-me-up scent. It smells like woodfire, figs or other dried fruits, piney greens, salt, fresh rose petals and hazelnuts. I think it would be a good fit for her.
3. As already mentioned, I second “Bois des Isles” by Chanel, if she can get it. Dry, dusted cocoa, woodsmoke and woods, almonds, incense and pine.