This week we're helping Lisa, who hasn't worn perfume in 15 years because she can't find one she likes. Lisa says everything she tries is too nondescript, too simple, too cloying or changes with her body chemistry so as to be unidentifiable. Her ex-boyfriend wore Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Mâle, and she loves it so much that she has worn it a few times, but she'd like to find something more feminine. She's willing to spend up to $100, and has reasonably good access to stores. Here are a few more details about Lisa:
She's in her late 30s and a "classic kind of girl".
He style is hip but tailored for work; casual on the weekends.
She describes her personality and sense of humor as "fun/sarcastic...but deeply intellectual for things that matter".
In the past, Lisa has worn Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl and Lancôme Tresor, but she isn't in love with any of those now. She says she is attracted to sweet fragrances like Paris Hilton Can Can, Jessica Simpson Fancy or Guess by Marciano (although it faded too fast), but she isn't sure they really fit her and she doesn't want to smell like a candle. Other things she has tried and ruled out include Marc Jacobs Daisy (too simple), Christian Dior Addict, Ralph Lauren Notorious & Romance, Lancôme Magnifique and most of the Burberrys.
Lisa likes the idea of a clean or citrusy fragrance, but she isn't sure she could find one that would be complex enough to suit her. She did recently smell Kenzo L'Eau Par Kenzo Homme and liked it although it seemed fairly simple.
What say you?
Note: image is ei, seu carteiro! by .mands. at flickr; some rights reserved.
I would advice to smell a few of the L´Artisan perfumes, they are transparent enough to be sweet but you won´t smell like a candle. I think she might want something that isn´t going to be overpowering but is still interesting, hence the L´Artisan recommendation.
I don´t know any clean or citrus fragrances that have a lot of complexity. Maybe Les Nuits d´Hadrien by Annick Goutal? I find it one of the best of the citrus/orange category.
L’Artisan came to my mind too.
l’artisan really covers the range from classic to floral to non gender specific. I highly recommend Guerlain Aqua Allegorias figue iris now available @ sephora. after reading more closely christalle verte and eaux de Sisley #2 are also contenders. caleche edt gets a big second here as would HERMESSENCE osmanthus yunnan and vetive tonka. have fun!!!
I also believe Lian’s suggestion of Nuits d’Hadrien and Memechose’s thought on Eau du Soir would be really nice choices.
I thought of Eau du Coq by Guerlain which I find to be a delicious citrus, noble yet tangy, but of course very fleeting as it is a cologne…
If you want to try L’Artisan samples, go to their US website, where you can order 5 samples at a time for a total charge of $7. A good deal for the online sample world. I have done this 3 or 4 times in the past couple of months.
http://www.artisanparfumeur.us/store/
I also agree with L’Artisan in general as a good place to check samples, since you like sweet, clean, citrus, light florals, etc.
This is a great idea. L’Artisan’s fragrances are wonderful. If I had to limit myself to only one perfume house, it would be my choice. Some that you might want to sample: Mimosa Pour Moi, Fleur de Liane, L’Eau de Jatamansi, Premier Figuier. If you want to experience a couple of mind-bending, wonderfully complex incense fragrances, Timbuktu and Dzongkha are highly recommended.
You just made me think of Passage d’Enfer (also L’Artisan), which is too soapy for me but just might fit the “clean” bill for Lisa. It’s an incense and lily scent, complex yet very gentle.
Yes, Passage D’Enfer is very clean and lovely.
I find Power by Kenzo interesting, fairly clean, and oddly citrusy, but feminine enough to wear daily as a woman. You could also try Un Jardin en Mediteranee which is slightly sweet on opening but just complex enough to keep me interested. I also like Love and Luck Woman by Ed Hardy. It opens up a bit sweet and red fruity, but as it calms down it has a nice, sweet, and interesting sandalwood drydown. It’s a really fun but not candle-smelling fruity sweet floral.
Hi Lisa
So – you are looking for something fresh, clean and citrus that is classic, complex and unusual? I am not much of a clean/citrus lover so perhaps am not the best person to give recommendations. However, I would suggest trying two Guerlain fragrances……
Apres L’Ondee may not be complex enough for you, but it is a lovely, fresh EdT with Bergamot. And I do find it has a hint of something mossy to give it depth. It is a lovely scent.
A more complex one is Jicky (I am wearing it now which is why I thought to mention it!) Again, the bergamot gives it a freshness, along with rosemary and lavender, there is vanilla and tonka to give it sweetness, and then a musky civet which adds depth and sultryness. I find this to be decidedly classic, yet young at heart. It can be worn casually. Even though it is one of the oldest perfumes still in production, it is still unusual and I smell like no one else when I wear it.
NB: The stronger you try it in concentration, the heavier and more musky it becomes. So start with the EdT and work your way to Parfum!
I look forward to hearing what you end up with!
Hi!
I also think of Guerlain, when one mentions citrus (and, unfortunately for me, vanilla). Shalimar or Jicky might be worth a try and the former is easy to find for testing.
A beautiful citrusy floral I discovered thanks to our blog mistress is Frangipani Absolute, by Ormonde Jayne.
A strong citrus note +violet can be found in Tom Ford’s Black Violet (I don’t like it but apparently it has quite a following)
A stunning and non-conventional very citrusy incense is Incense extreme, by andy Tauer. For what matters, this and the OJ are my favorites of the bunch.
By the way, I wasn’t very satisfied either with my perfumes before I discovered entire families that are not (really) represented in the usual mainstream offers: the discovery of woody fragrances, and smoky, incense and leathery perfumes, turned my head and started a serious perfume obsession :)!
Have you tried any fragrance from these families? If not, maybe you could be willing to sample some?
Sample programs are available for ex. at the perfume court, with some “best of” selections…(hey, I’m not affiliated, but I find them useful!)
An excellent point… there’s a whole world of stuff out there unavailable at your typical department store that I didn’t know I liked until I tried it. Incense! Woods! Delicious.
Hi! I also thought of Un Jardin Sur Le Nil, which is citrus-y in an interesting way and smells very clean (to me). Also Eau de Cartier, which has a more floral feel and is easy to wear (perfect for work). I just tried Jacques Fath Green Water, which is a wonderful citrus and mint scent, perfect for hot weather. Eau de Givenchy is great too, although that’s more of a very crisp floral. And for straight, unadulterated citrus, there is Monsieur Balmain (lemon with a wonderful drydown) and Guerlain Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune (I’m sure I spelled that wrong!!) which is a very clean grapefruit. Good luck and have fun with your search!!
I agree with Un Jardin Sur le Nil. I also suggest Kelly Caleche.
Another vote for Un Jardin Sur Le Nil!
Another enthusiastic vote for Eau de Cartier! It’s one of my very favorites. EdC has a bit of almost everything: green, citrus, floral, wood. Very special, and IMO the bottle is a minor work of art!
Hi Lisa! Sounds like you’ve tried many scents over the past 15 years, yet have not found any that you like. Sounds like you’re looking for that “perfect” scent that will suddenly “speak” to you in a way that no other scent has. That’s a difficult challenge. If you really want to find that perfect scent, I’m going to propose something. Dive into the world of fragrance, and learn everything you can about it. Learn to appreciate the classics – what makes them tick and why. Learn about the different categories of fragrance. Sample and try scents from every category and record your feelings about them. Open your mind and open your experience, not to find that perfect scent quite yet, but to appreciate the great breadth and diversity and complexity and simplicity that occurs in the making of fragrance. Learn to appreciate the scents, smells of all forms and types of ingredients. After spending time educating yourself, only then will you be able to choose the perfect scent. Until then, it’s a crap shoot. Look at all the thousands and thousands of fragrances out there? How can any of us possibly try them all? Best way to do it – know thine enemy! After saturating yourself in the discovery of perfume, you’ll begin to recognize exactly the types of scents that send you over the moon – and those that send you screaming in agony. Report back in a year and tell us what you found. I think you’ll surprise yourself.
I second karin completely!
I agree with Karin also – you left this really wide open. You may decide to go over to The Perfumed Court and start doing some research by notes and classic houses, such as Guerlain, Caron, Givenchy, Dior, etc, or to fragranctica where you can search frags you used to like and wear and see what similar frags it recommends. There is a world of enjoyment and research to do!
It sounds like most of your exposure is to standard department store frags, which is fine b/c there can be good fragrances there that you may like. But it seems like you are searching for more…I know another lady who has similar tastes to the frags you used to wear, and these are some other fragrances she enjoys and also I recommend:
Estee Lauder PC Tuberose Gardenia, L’Artisan Mimosa pour Moi, Annick Goutal Mandragore, YSL Cinema, Guerlain Chant d’Aromes or Apres L’Ondee, Givenchy (Les Mythiques) L’Interdit, Le De, and (second) Eau de Givenchy, Dior Diorissimo, and Parfums de Nicolai Eau d’Ete Eau Fraiche.
Good luck!
Beautifully expressed Karin, and so true!
I would add: read all of the Perfume Reviews on this site, and use them to expand your “repetoire” of scent… if you already know you like clean and citrusy, try scents based on vetiver … iris root …then segue into some incense or leather based scents. Since you are already attracted to complex scents, you will find yourself wowed by categories of fragrance you never expected to like in a million years. Tea, rubber, kitty breath! (just kidding on the last one
I personally adore kitty breath
what about Calandre (Paco Rabanne)? Just my first idea, otherwise I agree with the suggestions to try out different categories…
Since you like both citrus and vanilla, what about the discontinued but still-available-at-online-discounters Shalimar Light? It’s not as sweet as Fancy, and has a nice deep base you might find interesting. Jardin sur le Nil is a wonderful unisex choice, too.
I’ll reiterate what everybody else is saying and suggest you sample a bunch of stuff. In fact, I’ll put in a plug for The Perfumed Court’s beginner sample pack, as being a simple way to narrow down (or possibly, if you’re lucky, expand) what you like. I think it runs $65, including shipping, for 21 samples of Great Stuff, and I wish I’d been smart enough to start with it.
Great idea, mals!!!
Hi Lisa-
SOMETHING UNIQUE RUBJ by verno kern. Verno says its the fragrance Marlene Dietrich or Charlotte Rampling would wear AND a Hindi princess.. very expensive , but worth it. try a sample first luckyscent sells a sample
SWEET , I LUV zucchero by profumum.vanilla and orange blossom, and so long lasting , yet more sophisticated than the celeb scents. sample from luckyscent
CITRUS- Carthusia ‘s Mediterranee or Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Pamplemousse
I looooooooovvvvvve Profumum Zuccherro. I always get compliments when I wear it. I bought a decant on Scent-Splits. An inexpensive twin sister is Aquolina Pink Sugar (I used to hate it but have warmed up to it-it’s much less expensive).
Chanel Cristalle: citrus, chypre, and hyacinth.
Also agree with Jardin Sur le Nil. Might as well try Apres le Mousson while she’s at it.
How about Gaultier Fleur du Male?
I’d also suggest she try some of the Guerlain Aqua Allegorias — easily testable at Sephora. They might not be complex enough for her, but one might do the trick and be pleasant enough to want to own.
Lisa: Without becoming an obsessed perfumista, you might want to at least think about not having just one “signature scent” but at least two or three: one for day wear, one for evenings out?
hey hey hey hey hey… what’s WRONG with being an obsessed perfumista? Wait, let me open the credit card statement… um, oh yeah. Now I remember.
I’m kidding. You’re right, Joe, it is possible to find a couple of new and very personal signature-type fragrances without going full-tilt into obsession. That’s what I intended to do last fall when I started researching perfumes: find a new “me” perfume. And if I had to, I could knock my wardrobe down to about 4 perfumes I could wear the rest of my life. Well, maybe 5.
only 4? 5? do I hear a 10?
These aren’t citrusy, but two perfumes that are sweet and I think hip, chic and all occassion are Balkis by Parfums de Nicolai and Chinatown by Bond #9. The Chinatown will run you a little over $100 if you wait for a sale at a discounter, and a little goes a long way.
I’m not a huge fan of sweet, but I think these are both complex and delicious, might be worth a sample, at least
Just had another thought. I recently sampled some of the fragrances by Neil Morris. There were several that were sweet and interesting at the same time – might be up your alley. You might check his website and look at Zephyr, Spirit of Water, and others. His samples are generously-sized.
For a clean/citrus fragrance I’d recommend Miller Harris Le Petit Grain
That’s one I’ve wanted to try! Sounds really nice.
For vetiver fragrances, you can try Givenchy Vetyver (reissue – at dept stores, not sure of pricing but I’m sure that it’s under $100). Armani Prive Vetiver Babylone is very nice – citrus/vetiver (retail is $135, but could possibly be found at discout – at Armani counters). This next one is on the expensive side, but worth a sniff just for reference – Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company.
How about some naturals?
Like Mandy Aftel’s Shiso, Cognac or Fig? Fig has amazing staying power for a natural. They are all very unique.
and ajne’s margaux… amazing as is printemps.
Amaterase- Have you tried Lumiere yet…. a work of art in natural perfumery imho
Ooooh. I need to go try it. Thanks for the info!
Lisa: It wasn’t until my mid 40’s that my allergies backed off enough to even consider fragrances. But I had a similar experience of wanting something more, something deeper than what I was trying. I even tried many of the scents you did.
I have spent lots of time with samples and strongly encourage you to follow the advice of others by trying many different types. Whoever mentioned The Perfumed Court’s beginner samples gave you EXCELLENT advice. Learn as you go and you’ll come to appreciate a fragrance, not just wear it.
I have found many scents I thought I loved. Luckily, through samples, I wore them for a while and discovered they weren’t enough for forever. They just weren’t “the one”. In the past 7 or so years, I’ve only found 3 scents I can’t live without and always have on hand. However, I continue to search for #4 and am so enjoying the process.
Good luck and enjoy your own journey!
I was also going to suggest Fleur du Male since you like Le Male. I haven’t been able to try it yet, but want to, since it has a lot of neroli.
I just tried LeLabo Bergamote 22, which is citrussy with a nice touch of vetiver. My favorite spring vetiver is Vetiverru by Comme des Garcons – very affordable, too.
Oh, and that Dior Escale a Portofino has a lot of promise in the citrus category.
How about Thierry Mugler Cologne for a light but fairly complex fresh, green scent?
And at the risk of getting kicked off of here, maybe Covet? I just got some and am enjoying its freshness (NOT marine!!) and slightly masculine green/floral scent. It is also dirt-cheap on ebay – I got a 3-piece gift set for about $15 including shipping. The body cream is really excellent – not too highly fragranced.
Tama, we’ve got to finally set you up with some Fleur du Male! I bought more spray testers than I’ll ever use; if you’d like to try it, drop me an email: joe805 on mua.
You rock! I sent you a message on mua.
I havea couple of suggestions: Gueralin AA Herba Fresca. It is citrusy and fresh with a decent amount of complexity. Donna Karan Gold which manages to be a little sweet, sophisticated and fresh.
Oh my word, you all are amazing! Thanks so much for weighing in on this. Seriously, I am such a newbie I haven’t heard of half the fragrances you’re recommending. I can’t wait to start sampling them! Question: I say I don’t like powdery or cloying scents, yet every review I read of Le Male describes it as “strong and potentially overpowering.” Is this true? What makes it so? If that’s the case, it surprises me that I like it so much. Thanks again, everyone. I’m loving reading your fantastic suggestions. There may be hope for me yet!
i LisaA. Everyone has a diofferent skin chemistry, which really can amaze you. what someone described as clean, i find fruity, so your chemistry is effected by your age, genger, whatt you ate, memories hormones. Thats why you need a fragrance that is a little sexy too. My hormones are crazy ovulation and i go right for the clive christian x.(very sexy on me) then put it away until next month.Have fun, no one right answer, but Jo Malone, L’Artisan, these are great places to start… Unless you love it and want to marry it, date …., come back to the store the next week and see if you still love….
Hi Lisa! Have fun exploring!!!! Hope you find some really wonderful fragrances that you love.
Oh, I’m surprised no one’s mentioned Jo Malone yet – I think many of her frags are great for the fresh/citrusy/clean feel. The Kohdo Wood Lotus Blossom and Water Lily sounds like it might fit the bill, also Grapefruit, Lime Basil Mandarin, Verbenas of Provence, and maybe the Orange Blossom and French Lime Blossom for more feminine but still light florals. Also, I find figgy scents are great for that “non-perfumey” freshness – L’Artisan Premier Figue and PG Jardin de Kerylos are two nice green fresh ones. For a clean floral, Malle En Passant is beautiful – a really fresh and sheer true lilac.
When I shuffle through my sample heaps thinking of fresh with some non-cloying sweet, un-powdery, un-perfumy, I come up with:
Hermessence Rose Ikebana
Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint
Jo Malone Sweet Lime & Cedar
Le Labo Jasmin 17
Chanel No. 19 (sort of violates un-perfumy, though, IMO, at least in any strength other than the parfum)
Annick Goutal Mandragore
Are men’s fragrances right out? Because I also thought of Creed Original Vetiver.
Very late to the party, but for a feminine version of JPG Le Make, what she wants is Catherine Memmi Attitude, which has been out of production for a while, but LS says it might be back in stock in the fall, so keep an eye on that one.
Also Profumum Antico Caruso might be an option to sample, but the Catherine Memmi Attitude for Her is really on the spot.
I think the Ormond Jaynes are worth trying at some point-they are so well blended with such quality.At least Ormond Woman, Ta’if, Osmanthus, and perhaps Champaca should be tested, but all are good.
I forgot about Annick Goutal. Mandragore and Les Nuits D’Hadrien have already been mentioned (Mandragore is best in EdP, not the EdT). You might want to try her Eau du Sud as well. it is a citrus, but has an edge to it. Her most recent release, Un Matin D’Orage is light, fresh, ozonic and rather lovely.
I like the Annick Goutal recs and also the wonderful Osmanthe Yunnan.
I would second Parfums de Nicolai Eau d Ete and Cristal (edt version) by Chanel, both are great and within your price range. FYI, the original Cristal is being reformulated and re-released and while I haven’t smelled the new version, the original is amazing. I would try that version if you can find it.
I would also suggest Rapsodia in Blu by Cristiano Fissore, it is fresh citrusy with lemon, bergamot, rosemary, petitgrain, mugweed, jasmine, lily of the valley, cedarwood, white musk, it is one of my favorite summer scents.