Nadine is today's subject. She's from Paris but is currently living in Berlin, and she's had some trouble finding a new perfume. Actually, she'd like to find two: one for warm weather and one for cold, and...
...ideally the former would be written in the mirror language of the latter, or vice versa. Two perfumes which invoke the "sensual world" of Ulysses' Molly Bloom, "the taste of seedcake from his wet mouth"... Something perhaps a little complicated but not troubling, more feminine than bordering on androgynous, a big secret one can share, coquette, touching and definitely more of a perfumed assault rather than breezy olfactory haiku.
Her price limit is around $200, and she has pretty good access to perfume stores. Here is what we know about Nadine:
She's in her mid-20s and finishing a Master's degree in Comparative Literature.
She has dark blond hair and green eyes.
She's moody, complicated, melancholic and very sentimental, but also (she hopes) silly, funny and sometimes seductive and charming.
For music and clothes, Nadine says she is "drawn toward the mutant hybrids and the bastards".
Nadine likes powdery and gourmand notes, citrus, chypre and floral notes. Scents she has loved in the past include Guerlain Samsara ("I love the powdery, 80s oriental chic of this scent but because I've worn it for a while I'm a bit bored of it now"), Chanel Coco Mademoiselle ("...very coquette and sexy to me, but I have grown tired of it"), Jil Sander Jil ("too simple and monolithic for me"), Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse.
Scents she likes or likes to smell on others, but would not wear regularly herself include Santa Maria Novella Melograno, Clarins Eau Dynamisante, Rochase Eau de Rochas, Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien and Acqua di Parma.
Nadine does not like obvious fruity notes, anything that's too syrupy sweet, too heady or too fresh. Some fragrances she dislikes include Calvin Klein ck one, Davidoff Cool Water, DKNY Be Delicious, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers, Joop All About Eve, Armani Emporio Armani For Her, Serge Lutens Douce Amère, Cacharel Anais Anais, Vivienne Westwood Boudoir, the Clean line, Narciso Rodriguez For Her, any of the Annick Goutal orientals.
Here are some of the fragrances Nadine has tried in her search:
For winter: Shisedio Feminité de Bois ("great big plum"), L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer (too much incense), L'Artisan Safran Troublant ("smelled like its name, and not in a good way"), Guerlain Vol de Nuit ("too old-fashioned"), Guerlain L'Heure Bleu (Nadine owns it but "hasn't understood this scent yet").
For summer: Creed Spring Flower ("too violently floral"), L'Artisan La Chasse au Papillons ("a bit boring"), Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose (she doesn't like obvious or predominant rose notes).