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The Monday Mail ~ help Nadine find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 6 April 2009 62 Comments

Cartas

Nadine is today's subject. She's from Paris but is currently living in Berlin, and she's had some trouble finding a new perfume. Actually, she'd like to find two: one for warm weather and one for cold, and...

...ideally the former would be written in the mirror language of the latter, or vice versa. Two perfumes which invoke the "sensual world" of Ulysses' Molly Bloom, "the taste of seedcake from his wet mouth"... Something perhaps a little complicated but not troubling, more feminine than bordering on androgynous, a big secret one can share, coquette, touching and definitely more of a perfumed assault rather than breezy olfactory haiku.

Her price limit is around $200, and she has pretty good access to perfume stores. Here is what we know about Nadine:

She's in her mid-20s and finishing a Master's degree in Comparative Literature.

She has dark blond hair and green eyes.

She's moody, complicated, melancholic and very sentimental, but also (she hopes) silly, funny and sometimes seductive and charming.

For music and clothes, Nadine says she is "drawn toward the mutant hybrids and the bastards".

Nadine likes powdery and gourmand notes, citrus, chypre and floral notes.  Scents she has loved in the past include Guerlain Samsara ("I love the powdery, 80s oriental chic of this scent but because I've worn it for a while I'm a bit bored of it now"), Chanel Coco Mademoiselle ("...very coquette and sexy to me, but I have grown tired of it"), Jil Sander Jil ("too simple and monolithic for me"),  Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse.

Scents she likes or likes to smell on others, but would not wear regularly herself include Santa Maria Novella Melograno, Clarins Eau Dynamisante, Rochase Eau de Rochas, Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien and Acqua di Parma.

Nadine does not like obvious fruity notes, anything that's too syrupy sweet, too heady or too fresh. Some fragrances she dislikes include Calvin Klein ck one, Davidoff Cool Water, DKNY Be Delicious, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers, Joop All About Eve,  Armani Emporio Armani For Her, Serge Lutens Douce Amère, Cacharel Anais Anais, Vivienne Westwood Boudoir, the Clean line, Narciso Rodriguez For Her, any of the Annick Goutal orientals.  

Here are some of the fragrances Nadine has tried in her search: 

For winter: Shisedio Feminité de Bois ("great big plum"), L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer (too much incense), L'Artisan Safran Troublant ("smelled like its name, and not in a good way"), Guerlain Vol de Nuit ("too old-fashioned"), Guerlain L'Heure Bleu (Nadine owns it but "hasn't understood this scent yet").

For summer: Creed Spring Flower ("too violently floral"), L'Artisan La Chasse au Papillons ("a bit boring"), Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose (she doesn't like obvious or predominant rose notes).

Note: image is ei, seu carteiro! by .mands. at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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62 Comments

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  1. memechose says:
    6 April 2009 at 7:52 am

    A few immediately come to mind-THE ULTIMATE May BE ROJAS DOVE UNSPOKEN or ENSLAVE. one is a chypre , and one is an oriental.
    A few more choices Guerlain’s Iris Ganache or Nahema, L’eau d’Hiver by JCE for Malle might work as well.the Jovoy line is interesting ;either Poudre or chypre

    Out on a limb for spring- Molinard’s Iles d’or, and Verno Kern’s Rubj

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    • lovethescents says:
      6 April 2009 at 8:24 am

      Completely agree with Iris Ganache! It is absolutely delicious!

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    • enidan says:
      6 April 2009 at 2:13 pm

      Hi, it’s Nadine again.

      I don’t know whether replying to the suggestions this early in the game is protocol, but I will chime in a little anyway :)

      MEMECHOSE: Thanks so much for the suggestions. I have already sniffed the Guerlain scents but will revisit.
      As for Molinard: I have visited Grasse a few times and flirted with a few of their fragrances while I was there, but I think I over-did it each time as I can’t remember any one smell in particular… Seeing as a few of you have suggested Molinard fragrances I think I’ll look into this line again, tho’.
      I am very tempted to try Roja Dove and Verno Kerns — you have got me dreaming (drooling? *YEEAOW*)!

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      • memechose says:
        7 April 2009 at 2:15 pm

        AHHHH Comp Literature. I was a literature major as well. How did i not think of this.(hits forehead) 1876 by Histoires de parfums for a drop dead sexy scent named for birth date of mata Hari. personally .I wear 1804, George Sand….the double entendre “histoires’= stories AND histories. A Wonderful line to explore.

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        • enidan says:
          9 April 2009 at 12:32 pm

          Thank you once more Memechose!

          I once tried the Colette frangrance, but it wasn’t the love affair I had anticipated. I looked up Mata Hari and will try it, absolutely!

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  2. memechose says:
    6 April 2009 at 7:53 am

    Roja Dove- No coffee yet sorry.

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  3. lovethescents says:
    6 April 2009 at 7:58 am

    Hi Nadine, have you tried Ormonde Jayne’s Ormonde Woman? It is a stunning almost-chypre, in my opinion, no powder but just lovely. I would say it is stunning in any weather.

    What about Guerlain’s Mitsouko or Amouage Jubilation 25? These I prefer in cooler weather. Jubilation 25 is very complex and melodramatic, in no way a haiku.

    I’ll think some more. Good luck and I look forward to others’ suggestions, as usual.

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    • enidan says:
      6 April 2009 at 8:11 am

      Hi Everyone!

      This is Nadine. A little note to say thank you to Robin and all of you for including me in your feature! I’m so thrilled, my mouth is already watering.

      LOVETHESCENTS: Mmmmh, those suggestions sound marvellous. The only one I know is Mitsouko because an ex-bf used to wear it…

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      • lovethescents says:
        6 April 2009 at 8:23 am

        Yes, Nadine, you must sample the OJ and the Jubilation!

        Thinking more about powders, have you tried Lorenzo Villoresi’s Donna or Teint de Neige? The Neige one is a little sweet, but the Donna you might go for: it’s gourmand and powder with some lovely swirling flowers….rose included but not in the obvious sense.

        How do you feel about vanilla?

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        • enidan says:
          6 April 2009 at 2:17 pm

          I am swooning over the OJ description on the website and perfume forums! Thank you!

          Teint de Neige has been a recurrent suggestion, so I will defo look into that.

          As for vanilla: I don’t like overly gourmand notes and I hate pure vanilla soaps or cremes or scented candles, yeech (sorry, vanilla-lovers). However, most of the powdery scents I like – the ones that feel more suitable to colder weather to me – have a strong vanilla presence in them, so I would definitely go for a fragrance built around it.

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        • enidan says:
          8 April 2009 at 4:55 am

          A big thanks to all of you who recommended the OJ line — I’ve been looking into it and am excited to try some of the fragrances. Can you recommend testing the EdP or will only the parfum do?

          LOVETHESCENTS: I will try some of the Lorenzo Villoresi scents today. I wonder if Teint de neige will suit a blondish pale pink girl with some freckles across the nose, I feel I don’t really live up to the name… we shall see!

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          • Robin says:
            8 April 2009 at 7:09 am

            The EdPs are wonderful.

          • Blimunda says:
            9 April 2009 at 4:57 am

            Hi Nadine
            I am an OJ lover in London! I own Ormonde Woman in EdP and am very happy with it – but I do find that it wears off quickly. Now that I know I love this scent, and never want to be without it, I will invest in the Parfum when my EdP runs out.
            Of course it depends on the person, and the lasting power will be different for everyone. Are you ordering her sample programme? I guess, if you love the scent enough, investing in the Parfum would be a good idea. But the EdP is a cheaper way to make sure you really love it first!

          • enidan says:
            9 April 2009 at 12:35 pm

            Thank you Robin and Blimunda.

            I’m happy to hear that the EdPs differ from the perfumes more in lasting power than actual scent — that’s what I was a bit worried about. And yes, I’m going to try and get to whole sample set. *YEAH*

    • bergere says:
      6 April 2009 at 8:50 am

      Salut, Nadine!
      I second the recommendations for Ormonde Jayne Woman; in fact, any of her scents might interest you. In some of these the florals are more tropical in feel (Champaca, Frangipani), but they are all wonderful and the drydowns are similar. I also wonder if you’d like Prada’s Infusion d’Iris, a powdery floral without too much sweetness. Attrape-coeur (Guet-apens) by Guerlain is also a nice floral, not dated in feel. Montaigne by Caron is another great powdery 80s scent, but without the oriental note (just be careful how much you put on!). A more classic floral is Le Dix by Balenciaga; to me it smells retro rather than dated. Also try Manoumalia by Les Nez, another lovely tropical. Bonne chance!

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      • lovethescents says:
        6 April 2009 at 8:53 am

        Oh, Le Dix is an excellent idea for any weather as well!

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      • memechose says:
        6 April 2009 at 1:33 pm

        Bought this yesterday…

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        • memechose says:
          6 April 2009 at 1:34 pm

          What did i buy ? Attrape-coeur

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      • enidan says:
        6 April 2009 at 2:21 pm

        Coucou Bergere,

        merci pour ces pistons! Is the Prada Iris anything like Iris Noble by Aqua di Parma? AdP Iris is too powdery for me as a perfume, but I adore the body cream! Thhe scent is heavenly and it feels so soft on the skin.

        I’m putting Attrape-coeur high up on the list, mostly because I love the name :)

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        • enidan says:
          7 April 2009 at 5:24 am

          Sorry, that should read Iris Nobile.

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  4. capillary says:
    6 April 2009 at 8:24 am

    It sounds like you want a serious, powerful feminine perfume! How about Chanel no. 19, Bulgari Black or YSL Rive Gauche? Mitsouko might work, too, I like that suggestion.

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  5. Zazie says:
    6 April 2009 at 8:25 am

    Hi Nadine, Berlin must be such a stimulating place to live!
    now, “a big secret one can share, coquette, touching and definitely more of a perfumed assault”
    …brings me to four florals (easy to wear, not exactly an assault, but with great and distinct personality):
    – Isabey Gardenia (for the chic lady-like retrò feel: seems so right to me for Berlin @ 20!!!)
    – Frangipani by Ormonde Jayne (for the lime peel on the white flower cream)
    – Rubj by Vero Kern (for the uncompromising rose-honeyed beauty)
    – white aoud by Motale (roses, saffron, woods and vanilla – very nice)
    wether these are winter or summer scents depends on the wearer, I think (maybe the last two are better in winter). For summer:
    – Eau d’Italie (splash or not)
    Good luck with your quest!

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    • enidan says:
      6 April 2009 at 2:28 pm

      Thanks very much Zazie!

      I’m in for a serious try-out period!

      Berlin IS stimulating — fun, funny and sadlarious (sad, hilarious)… but unfortunately there are only a few places in the city that carry a larger range of niche scents, and none of them are individual boutiques. If anyone is visiting Berlin or thinking of moving here I WOULD NOT recommend the famed Quartier 206 because the sales people are terribly unfriendly and not helpful. KaDeWe and Lafayette are nice, but many lines are not available. So I have a question for all of you living in Europe or Germany in particular: can you recommend something like The Perfumed Court, based out of EU/D? I will repeat this question in the next open question thread, so if you don’t feel like answering now, no worries!

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      • bjorn says:
        6 April 2009 at 4:36 pm

        You should to visit The Different Scent, a wonderful niche boutique in Berlin. You will find many lines there not available elsewhere. I was also a little disappointed with the frag selection in Berlin, no L’Artisan to be found anywhere?? I’ve also looked for a European Perfumed Court, but not found it (yet). First In Fragrance, based in Germany, seems to have a good sample program though.

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        • enidan says:
          7 April 2009 at 5:18 am

          Thanks for the tip, I’m off to the shop today!

          If you’re in Berlin and looking for L’Artisan Parfumeur you can find the semi-complete line in the Quartier, though I dislike that dept. store.

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        • enidan says:
          9 April 2009 at 12:38 pm

          I went to the shop yesterday, it’s really sweet, a very good recommendation!

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  6. 3xasif says:
    6 April 2009 at 8:30 am

    Nadine sounds very much like my dd- similar tastes, colouring, academic ativities, style and age- a smart & sophisticated person.

    maybe try:
    L’Artisan Premier Figuier Extreme
    L’Artisan Mure et Musc Extreme
    Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom & Honey
    Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir
    Guerlain Apres l’Ondee
    Chanel 28 la Pausa
    TDC Un Parfum de Sens et Bois
    Creed Love In Black
    FM l’Eau d’Hiver
    P&J Blanc

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    • enidan says:
      6 April 2009 at 2:29 pm

      Thanks Bxasif!

      Nice to know that there are a few of us CompLit people floating around here. We’re much in demand in today’s work force :S

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  7. marko says:
    6 April 2009 at 8:53 am

    Nadine –

    After reading that you like powdery, I immediately thought of Lorenzo Villorosi – TEINT DE NEIGE – it is a little sweet, but definitely one of the Queens of Powder. Actually, you might want to try quite a few from his line – DONNA, YERBAMATE, INCENSI, ALAMUT – they’re all nicely done and pack a big punch of powerful sillage.

    Good Luck,

    Marko

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    • enidan says:
      6 April 2009 at 2:35 pm

      Yes, Marko, I think I will have to familiarize myself with this line, which I had never even heard of before you suggested it. Thank you. Amazing.

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  8. colombina says:
    6 April 2009 at 9:08 am

    Fifi Chachnil. :-)

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    • 2scents says:
      6 April 2009 at 9:39 am

      I was thinking Fifi also–“sensual, coquette, a secret…” certainly not “haiku”. I would call it a tobacco scent with floral and citrus notes…plus that charming coriander twist. This works in Winter or Summer.

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    • enidan says:
      6 April 2009 at 2:31 pm

      Oh Colombina!

      I am intrigued!

      I’m not much one for 50s pin-up scents, but I will try to become familiar with this one…

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  9. 3xasif says:
    6 April 2009 at 9:19 am

    adding Balenciaga Cristobal as a possible winter choice, and Hermes Eau de Merveilles for summer….:-)

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  10. Blimunda says:
    6 April 2009 at 9:20 am

    Hi Nadine
    I heartily support the suggestion of Ormonde Woman for a great winter scent. It is superlative – it is feminine, mysterious, unusual and extremely sensual. You will smell like no one else.

    Summer:
    Mandragore by Annick Goutal. This is a slightly melancholic twist on a citrus, made with Mandrake. (The Edp version is better than the EdT.)
    Also for summer, try Guerlain’s Jicky. The EdT is a lighter, sparklier version – the denser the concentration the more animalic it becomes.
    For summer evenings……..Fracas by Robert Piguet. This is an assault of tuberose!! Very sexy and flushed!

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  11. www.mybeautyblog.de says:
    6 April 2009 at 9:36 am

    Hm, I would suggest L’Instant de Guerlain, very nice powdery though it takes a while to like it,
    second Premier Figuier & Musc et Mure from L’Artisan,
    what about Un Jardin apres la Mousson, depends on how she gets the melon.

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 5:23 am

      Herzlichen Dank!

      Predominant fruit is difficult for me (I would not be able to wear Petite Cherie or Eau de Charlotte), and melon especially is a weird one, but I rather love it in Le Parfum de Therese, so I will try out Un Jardin apres la Mousson, it’s a lovely name, too.

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  12. abirae says:
    6 April 2009 at 9:53 am

    Hi Nadine, a few of my favorite mutant hybrid bastards have sprung to mind.

    For summer, two weird violet blends by genius perfumers are Mark Buxton’s mb02 by biehl parfumkunstwerke, and Christopher Brosius’ Wild Pansy. Both combine violets, leaves, dirt, twigs, branches, and forest into something lovely though the mb02 is more traditionally lady-like, and the Wild Pansy more terrestrial.

    Comme des Garcon’s #3 is supposed to smell like an imagined flower in outer space. It is one of my favorite scents of all time – basil, flowers, cedar, mysterious space gasses etc. Wonderful.

    You may also like Six Scents #4 Gareth Pugh & Emilie Coppermann which is supposed to express “diagonal” – includes dill black pepper and tea. It’s actually very light and summery. #6 is Preen & Mark Buxton, and although it’s described as rhubarb and violet leaves I find it much more dill and peppery than #4. Perhaps my samples are mislabeled! Either way, both are great, light, wearable and unusual.

    For winter, CdG Odeur 71 is an odd bird – “The notes are inspired by dust on a hot lightbulb, bamboo, metal, electricity and lettuce juice” which to me smells like electricity, hot dust, cedar and incense. Its terrific, and totally wearable. It’s a lighter alternative to #2.

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 5:39 am

      These scents sound uninterpretable and moving.
      I’m really intrigued and hope I’ll be able to get my hands on them soon.
      I can’t say that I’ve been particulary daring or avant-garde with my perfume choices thus far, nor do I know if I would want to smell bird of paradise scents on myself over a longer period of time as I haven’t experimented enough. I don’t think I would fall for an overly literal fragrance (I imagine the Demeter line to be a bit like this), though I would love if someone were to translate the smell of the fur on the back of a small animal like a cat or hare after it’s been running through the wet grass.

      Would you say these fragrances (aside from the violet ones) are hermaphrodite or more obviously gendered?

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  13. lilydale aka Natalie says:
    6 April 2009 at 10:05 am

    As one also prone to moodiness, complication, and the occasional silliness, I’m just going to recommend some of my personal faves:

    *CdG 2 Woman: complex, dark, mysterious, competent, and really, really cool
    *Bandit: You want perfumed assault? Here you go!
    *L’Air du Désert Marocain: smokey, spicey, dry as a bone but definitely feminine enough for a woman
    *Tauer Incense rosé: dark, sultry rose
    *Heeley Cardinal: light incense with a citrusy twist

    I’m not sure how you feel about incense, but I’m very drawn to its inherently melancholic characteristics. As for florals, you might want to try some carnation scents — the spiciness keeps things interesting. The Lorenzo Villoresi Donna mentioned in an above post has some carnation; there’s also LV Garofano, Caron Bellodgia, and CdG Carnation (still looking for the perfect carnation for myself, but these are a good place to start!).

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    • lilydale aka Natalie says:
      6 April 2009 at 10:09 am

      Just a thought on the mutant hybrid bastard theme: B Never 2 Busy to B Beautiful (or whatever the heck the name is) Breath of God: floral + engine grease. You might like CdG Stephen Jones for the outer-space violet too. Have fun!

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      • enidan says:
        7 April 2009 at 5:45 am

        I love incense as an essential oil but I have yet to find a strongly incensed-based perfume I woud actually like to wear… If I found something that worked for me it could be big love, though, I feel.

        (By the way, in my case my mum and boyfriend say it isn’t complicatedness, but difficultness :))

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  14. Datura says:
    6 April 2009 at 10:12 am

    Hi! This is my first comment on NST but I have been reading for a while :)

    Nadine, I first thought of Serge Lutens Datura Noir. To me, it’s an intoxicating summer scent that mixes an unusual white floral note (the datura) with notes like bitter almond and tonka.

    L’Artisan Voleur de Rose is a dirty rose with wood and earth. Some people have discribed it as walking through a forest. Not sweet, but moody and complicated.

    I also second the Fifi, and would like to add Anne Pliska.

    Enjoy the hunt :)

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 6:23 am

      Thank you Datura!

      I wanted to be excited about the Serge Lutens line when I first heard about if a few years ago, but somehow I wasn’t drawn to it. I will definitely seek out Datura Noir again though, as I can’t remember it and it has been suggested a few times.
      Does anyone else dislike the packaging? I’m into the whole minimalistic concept in perfume flacons (some of the cucul ones are downright ugly, ahem, Maitre Parfumeur & G, ahem), but I find both SL and FM let down some of the fragrances in their lines (Therese doesn’t belong in that bottle, IMO).

      I’m honoured that you wrote your first comment to make a recommendation :)

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  15. violetnoir says:
    6 April 2009 at 11:55 am

    Nadine, I’m thinking Guerlain Insolence EdP, FM Carnal Flower or Iris Poudree, Juliette Has a Gun’s Lady Vengeance, Guerlain Oriental Brulant, Guerlain Angelique Noire, MDCI Enlevement Au Serail, and Rosine Rose Praline. I don’t think the rose notes in Lady Vengeance or Rose Praline are as predominant as they are in Lipstick Rose.

    Good luck, and happy testing!

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 5:47 am

      Would you say that Lady Vengeance and/or Rose Praline have the same kind of pin-up, film noiresque appeal to them as Lipstick Rose?

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      • violetnoir says:
        7 April 2009 at 4:01 pm

        No, not as much. They are both more praline like. LV reminds me of homemade waffles for some reason!

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  16. SmokeyToes says:
    6 April 2009 at 12:00 pm

    I’m stumped for a Summer suggestion, but for Winter, how about Guerlain’s Sous le Vent? I second the Angelique Noire. Both are stunning, complex and worth a try. Happy spritzing!

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  17. loledinburgh5 says:
    6 April 2009 at 12:15 pm

    hello!

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  18. loledinburgh5 says:
    6 April 2009 at 12:31 pm

    Hi there!
    Here I am again .Robin this new format is wonderful ,thank you very much can I just say that I am missing a lot your recs.( you’ve got excellent taste and thanks to your reviews and this feature I have fallen in love with various stunning fragrances making my life richer(speaking in terms of sensations,moneywise I am poorer ,lol) well I suppose if you can’t do them anymore is ’cause you’ve got your plate full so to speak…but I am looking forward to more of your personal favorites inserted here…
    Well, here are my recs.for Nadine;for winter what about Paloma Picasso Mon parfum,Bandit by Piguet or Molinard’s Habanita?For summer Hermes’ Un jardin sur le Nil or Guerlain’s Herba Fresca?
    Bonne chance, Lole.

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 5:51 am

      Merci à toi Lole!

      I couldn’t wear Paloma Picasso as my mum sometimes wore it when I was a child… I can’t wear Coco either, I associate it too much with her (in a nice way, of course).

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  19. AnnieA says:
    6 April 2009 at 12:55 pm

    I’ll second the recommendation of the Lutens Datura Noir. It has a lot of powder (in fact, on some people it smells like the inside of rubber gloves). Definitely also try one of the biehl parfumkunstwerke selections, being a hometown perfumery…

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  20. flittersniffer says:
    6 April 2009 at 2:10 pm

    I am familiar with the Berlin “scene” in terms of clubs and music venues and the sort of “mutant hybrids” you see hanging out there, so my recs are based more on the vibe of your lifestyle, since overtly floral scents strike me as inappropriate for the city.

    I would also suggest Ormonde Jayne Woman, and OJ Tolu, also Divine L’Inspiratrice – though for powder, Divine L’Ame Soeur and L’Infante are also nice, Bvlgari Black and PG L’Ombre Fauve, and Damien Bash Lucifer No 3. They are all offbeat and edgy, with in most cases, a slightly dark undercurrent. Balenciaga Cristobal, which someone mentioned, would also fit the bill, which is a slightly spicy, woody oriental. Bois des Iles is powdery and gourmand, and gorgeous, if not especially edgy.

    These are a few of my favourite things for wearing in Berlin!

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 5:54 am

      I love how you have chosen scents to suit the city!
      It’s true that not too many of the cool girls wear Juicy Couture here, hehe.

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  21. Tama says:
    6 April 2009 at 3:58 pm

    I am jumping on the Andy Tauer bandwagon as well and seconding l’Air du Desert Marocain – I like it very lightly applied in warmer weather and heavier in cold. Also love Maroc pour Elle.

    Farmacia ss Annunziata makes interesting gourmand scents – my faves are Aurora (clean spice with no vanilla) and Perla, which is fruity and marshmallowy but not cloying. I’m still testing the line.

    For the more avant-garde flavor I would say Bulgari Black, l’Artisan Dzing!, Bond 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory, CdG 2, CdG odeur 71.

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  22. Parfumesse says:
    6 April 2009 at 5:22 pm

    Hello Nadine!
    I would recommend TDC Jasmine de Nuit….the jasmine isn’t prominent at all,it is a tas sweet and spicy,a true beauty! :-)

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    • enidan says:
      7 April 2009 at 6:28 am

      I hope to try this soon! Jasmin in my father’s favourite flower.

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      • enidan says:
        7 April 2009 at 6:28 am

        *is*

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  23. flittersniffer says:
    6 April 2009 at 6:07 pm

    Yes – Dzing! would be just the thing for under the arches at the Hackescher Markt!

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  24. monstabunny says:
    7 April 2009 at 11:39 am

    I can’t imagine a better scent for winter than Hermes Hermessences’ Ambre Narguile. It’s like being enveloped in cashmere – which I believe was it’s inspiration. It’s not as expensive if you buy the box of 4 purse-size sprays, and Hermes is really generous with samples – maybe they know they’re addictive so you’ll be sure to return for a FB! As for summer, I like Parfum D’Empire’s Osmanthe Interdite, and also Annick Goutal’s new one called Duel.

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  25. JanAlways says:
    7 April 2009 at 4:21 pm

    How about Dior’s Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir? I know it’s tilted toward men, but it smells terrific and would double beautifully on a woman. It has the citrus of its sibling, with an added hue of leather, all held together by a beautiful powder. It would serve nicely as your daytime fragrance…

    If you like that, you might also try Jaïpur Homme Fresh, which is quite similar, though without the added leather tones. Ostensibly a limited edition fragrance, it’s been “limited” for five years now.

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  26. Dame Eyola says:
    7 April 2009 at 9:20 pm

    Hey, a thought from a frequent reader, first time commentor, nose obsessed, rookie perfumista: Kenzo Amour might fit the bill. Gourmand without making you smell like something to eat, sweet but tempered with a bit of woodiness and a bit powdery, but not in a baby’s-butt kind of way. It’s been a winter scent for me, the sweetness has a warm wrapped-up-in-blankets feel. Easily found at Sephora or at the Kenzo website and completely within price range.
    Good Luck!

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