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The most profitable apple-smelling molecule

Posted by Robin on 9 February 2009 24 Comments

Today 95% of chemicals used in perfume manufacture are derived from petroleum, and perfume "houses" are really laboratories full of scientists bent on discovering the most profitable apple-smelling molecule rather than artisanal "noses" mixing vats of rose petals. As the nose of Hermès, Jean-Claude Ellena, puts it: "One-third of my collection [of materials] consists of natural products and two-thirds of synthetic products."

— From Is there an eco perfume for Valentine's Day? at the Guardian, with many thanks to Vanessa for the link!

Filed Under: perfume in the news
Tagged With: aroma chemicals, naturals vs synthetics

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24 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 12:33 pm

    I wonder if some of those petroleum based aromachemicals will get more expensive as oil prices rise? I know folks who have tried to stop using petroleum-based make-up, lotion, and so on, as a sort of conservation move.
    Then again, the amount of petrol used in the products is probably dwarfed by whatever it takes to ship it.

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  2. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 4:59 pm

    I hope people stop using petroleum based lotions and make up to preserve their skin.

    I don't know how much petroleum goes into perfume components but I do know that the vast majority of petroleum use in the USA goes into transportation and electricity production. I would bet that you are completely correct, ahtx, the shipping has got to totally outstrip the production.

    I would recommend that we all try to cut out one unnecessary automobile trip to the store/shopping/partying each week and KEEP OUR PERFUMES….. yeah, got my priorities in line. :)

    (environmentally sensitive and smellin fine!)

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  3. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 5:06 pm

    I read a couple of pages of Burr's “The Perfect Scent” while I was in a bookstore this weekend, and the bit I read was about just this topic. He stated that a house could create a terrific scent built only from synthetics but that they could never market such a creation because people like to believe their perfumes contain at least SOME “natural” ingredients. I had honestly never thought about that and wonder if it truly would be marketing suicide to launch something that is “100% pure synthetic aromachemicals.” With the kind of crap that sells in any case, I can't imagine that the formula would really matter…

    Do pregnant woment even know that info about musks, the way they know about not eating certain foods, etc.? Makes me think about all those articles regarding animals' (including humans') sex organ development being affected by all the hormones and things in our environment.

    I liked that Guardian article and the fact that they had links to a couple of natural businesses. Though I have no bias against synthetics, really, I do wonder if all the petrochemical-derived stuff is a good idea on many levels, including medically…

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  4. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 5:26 pm

    This IS an educational blog! I didn't know that musks were detrimental during pregnancy—sheesh, I guess it was a good thing that anything with odor (and I do mean ANYTHING) made me “ralph” like crazy when I was preggers…it is the only time of my life when I wasn't doused liberally with something perfumey.

    That makes it somewhat concerning that most fragrances only mention a portion of their ingredients. I suppose a pregnant woman could spritz a favorite scent on her clothing rather than skin ?

    Anyhow, I agree that it would be marketing suicide to list “all synthetics” on a fragrance. I think most people would be shocked at how many synthetic components are in most beauty products, even ones they perceive as “natural”.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 6:44 pm

    A, I have no idea…but not even sure it makes sense to stop using petroleum-based makeup — how can you know? I mean, it's everywhere, even in packaging, isn't it? And that's not a rhetorical question, I really don't know.

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  6. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 6:46 pm

    Joe, well, they do make 100% synthetic fragrances, they just don't market them as such.

    And on pregnancy — it isn't just the perfume. Musk is everywhere — in detergents, toothpastes, you name it. You'd have to buy all natural everything to avoid it, and even then, you'd better have a pretty good understanding of how natural products are labeled since many of them are misleading.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 6:48 pm

    I think that's true of many women — they end up giving up perfume during pregnancy anyway.

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  8. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 7:02 pm

    well, I hate depress everyone….but not all the “natural” components are actually good for you either. Having “natural ingredients” and “botanicals” is a huge marketing tool but lots and lots of people are allergic to many of those “natural plant extracts” –the dermatologist I take my daughter to said she sees more allergic reactions to botanical additives in beauty products than any other condition.

    As for fragrances….I don't care whether it's natural or synthetic…I only care if my nose likes it or not. (I'm easy like that)

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  9. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 7:05 pm

    yup, gave up perfume, cooking, and hardly left the house….little unexpected smells often had disasterous (and messy) results!

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  10. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 11:39 pm

    Your comment reminds me that I've heard things said along the lines of “well nightshade and hemlock are 'natural' too…”.

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  11. Anonymous says:
    9 February 2009 at 11:43 pm

    I grew up on a farm…..we had all sorts of natural stuff….

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  12. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 12:59 am

    My tattooer was puzzled that I would be allergic to brown ink, since they are made from natural materials. My friend said, most allergies are caused by natural substances – synthetic stuff just gives you cancer.

    I know a lot of people are sensitive to chemicals, but I thought that was pretty funny, and probably truer than you think.

    You know, lots of us have been smearing petroleum on ourselves since babyhood: Vaseline!

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  13. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 3:36 am

    I don't think CdG's Synthetic series and then the Odeur ones are boasting natural ingredients
    oxygen, flash of metal, fire energy, washing drying in the wind, mineral carbon, sand dunes, nail polish, cellulose, pure air of the high mountains, ultimate fusion, burnt rubber, flaming rock
    all my fav scents

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  14. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 3:47 am

    “Nature red in tooth and claw”…

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  15. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 3:52 am

    I read this article while swooning over my latest discovery of Bvlgari Black, and decided that the future of the planet paled into insignificance beside the wonder that is Black.

    Plus it is true that the vast majority of petroleum usage (80%+ I think I read once) is accounted for by fuel and transport, so I would rather put on another woolly or get on my bike to do my bit, if it comes to the crunch!

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  16. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 8:45 am

    True, you can just as easily be allergic to a natural component as a synthetic one, but if I had any health concerns, I'd take my chances w/ a natural perfume over a synthetic one.

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  17. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 8:46 am

    Yes, I think that's a good way to sum it up — you might get an allergy to a natural substance, but who knows what the synthetics are doing to you!

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  18. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 8:53 am

    Synthetics aside… 600 launches last year? That number seems way too low. What say you, Robin?

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  19. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 9:08 am

    You know, I think we all are probably reading way too many articles about all the stuff that can make us sick…..being well informed is a serious downer.

    My plan is this: if it itches or burns, stop using it. Words to live by, eh?

    Just as an aside—someone told me last week that detergent residue from washing my dishes was going to cause me cancer……well, I'm still washing my dishes…..sigh…

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  20. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 11:50 am

    Yes, it was easily double that. I don't know what the “official” Michael Edwards count was, though.

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  21. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 11:51 am

    Black trumps all ;-)

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  22. Anonymous says:
    10 February 2009 at 7:06 pm

    Don't forget the xerox toner accord!

    I love the synthetic line – a sample set a few years ago was my first real foray into perfumistadom, I just didn't know it yet.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    11 February 2009 at 6:23 am

    Escentric Molecules markets itself as synthetic as do the synthetic series by CDG. Perhaps these are a little niche for every day customers but the are on the market so someone is buying them. (me for one)

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  24. Anonymous says:
    11 February 2009 at 2:45 pm

    True. I should have said mainstream brands don't advertise them as such…

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