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The Monday Mail ~ help Laura find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 19 January 2009 48 Comments

Cartas

Laura is looking for a "sexy, confident, come hither" fragrance for evening wear. She doesn't care if it's niche or mainstream, but she'd like to keep the cost under $200, and she'd prefer something that comes in a small size since she isn't going to wear it every day. Here is what we know about Laura:

She's in her 30s, and has two kids.

She describes herself as a "high power career person", and she wants her scent to match — it should say "I like to be in charge and I’m cunning".

She grew up in Southern California; now she's living in the Pacific Northwest.

Laura describes her style as "casual vintage and kitschy", and she likes bold simple lines.

For day wear, Laura is mostly drawn to unisex fragrances that "tilt" towards feminine. She likes woods, cool scents, moss notes, cool spices, metallic smells, grass & "dry brush" notes, green chypres, tobacco notes. Fragrances she likes for casual or office use include Hermès Jardin Sur Le Nil & Kelly Caleche, Missoni Acqua, David Yurman, Ghost Serenity, Pucci Vivara, Marc Jacobs, Chanel Cristalle, Eau de Cartier Concentree.

Laura doesn't like warm scents, amber, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, orientals, powder, overly girly scents, sticky sweet scents, laundry clean notes, gourmands. Fragrances that don't work for her include Thierry Mugler Angel, La Prairie Silver Rain & Midnight Rain, DSquared He Wood.

What say you?

Note: image is ei, seu carteiro! by .mands. at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail, sexy

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48 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 9:35 am

    Laura sounds like my kind of gal.
    This is maybe a little out there, but isn't there an Ormonde Jayne small bottle coffret or sampler for less than $200? They're bold, and unfussy, and I find them very take-charge. I also find most of them unisex. If she loved one, she could buy a bigger bottle.
    Ta'if might be a little much for work, but I bet you could get away with the rest of them. In fact … why do I not have a sample set? It's 35 euros on their website (small spray samples)

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  2. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 9:52 am

    M, so far as I know, the sample set is it — no coffret w/ small bottles of all of them. I wish — I'd own it!

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  3. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 9:58 am

    Great suggestion March. The OJ sample set is a good value and a wonderful way to try out the variety of scents she offers. I like those I have tried so far. I believe the current sample set includes all 11 scents, including the new Zizan. Oh! and free shipping for the samples.

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  4. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:01 am

    Hi,

    First thing that came to mind is Bandit by Piguet.

    Can't wait to read the rest of the recs.

    ~Dawn

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  5. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:28 am

    How about Chanel No 19, or one of the Les Exclusives? Rumor has it (on Pefume of Life anyway) that they are supposed be released in smaller sizes. Even the big, okay HUGE bottles are under $200 and one can decant into a smaller atomizer. Samples can be found at the Perfumed Court. I recommend Laura try Bel Respiro, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa, and maybe even Cuir de Russie. I have been really exploring the Chanels lately and truly enjoy their high quality.

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  6. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:30 am

    I would definitely start by suggesting Hiris – cold, earthy, metallic iris. If she likes cool scents wih a vintage feel, Bluebell, Artemisia by Penhaligon's are worth a try. Bluebell is a very cool, bluebell scent with a vegetal note. Artemisia is described as a “warm semioriental” – but it's not warm at all. It's a cool scent with a nice touch of spices and a nice woody base. I will also suggest Heure Bleue by Annick Goutal, a cool iris-rose scent, oh it's one of my favorites. Sexy, slightly sweet, unique and just simply gorgeous. People compare it to Chanel no. 19 – could be, but definitely minus the heavy aldehyde part. The last one will be Un Lys by Serge Lutens – a nice scent, smells like cool lilies on a bed of spices and wood.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:30 am

    I haven't tried Sycomore yet, but that is probably a good one from Les Exclusives to try also.

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  8. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:43 am

    I know it's still technically an oriental style chypre, but how about Lancome's Magie Noir? It is bold, sexy, and has a woody-chypre quality. I've heard another liker of this frag describe it as a “dirty rose”. I think a decant of the actual parfum would be spectacular. Men like this one too.

    I'll also recommend Donna Karan Signature which is very warm and sexy. It has a sensual suede note, even though it sits on an oriental style base. It dries down to a creamy wood scent rather than just oriental vanillas, ambers, etc. My husband loves this one.

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  9. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:45 am

    I will suggest Ava Luxe Chypre Noir- a sexy pillow talk chypre with a very vintage feel (5ml spray at the perfumed court was very affordable last time I checked)…Also Jubilation 25 (if they still have the travel size anywhere) is super sexy vintage-y/ very cunning confidant woman.
    The other that comes to mind is Diorling- you can get the reissue at the perfumed court- I think they only sell it in Europe or the vintage (which I recommend) can be found on the bay or maybe swapped on makeup alley.
    good luck!

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  10. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 10:48 am

    I will second with spades Heure Exquise which is tied at No. 1 for my HG favorite….HE is just about as beautiful and senusal as it gets, and it works all year round, but I mostly find it best in humid summer weather when the notes just bloom up off the skin. The dry body oil is especially sensual. (I will also agree it is very similar to No 19,which I also wear. If you like and can pull off Cristalle, then you can wear Heure Exquise, which will seem plush and sensual in comparison.) HE always dries down to an amazing bone dry powdery sweetish sandalwood on me. Just gorgeous.

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  11. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 11:00 am

    I'm trying out Miller Harris scents at the moment, Fleurs de sel is a very “cool” scent, might be worth a trial, but sexy? hmm

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  12. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 11:25 am

    Ooh, this one is hard for me. I enjoy precisely the type of fragrance that Laura does not want (warm, oriental, dry gourmands) and I understand the whole come-hither type of fragrance in terms of warm notes.
    My idea of a a sexy frag is Jo Malone Dark Amber & Ginger Lily – despite the name, I get little amber and quite a bit of incense. It *is* warm, though.
    Laura, how do you feel about incense-based fragrances? They can come across as cool, but add a seductive something too. Maybe the CdG Incense line, Profvmvm Olibanum or Antico Caruso? Especially Olibanum is quite dry, I think.
    Or maybe unusual (not very feminine, that is) florals would do the trick: Voleur de Rose, Rose Poivrée, Nuit Noire.
    Oh! A last thought: herbal-green-cool. Sel de Vetiver, Fleurs de Sel, L'Artisan's absinthe one (I forget the name…anyone?)
    Or leathers? I'll leave that to the experts, though, I hardly know any apart from Dzing!
    Hmm. Good luck!

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  13. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 11:45 am

    Les Exclusifs, I should say.

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  14. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 12:05 pm

    Zoe… Fou d'Absinthe. That's a great choice! Biehl's gs02 is in a similar vein but has a little more going on beneath the surface.

    I'd also throw in L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer for cool but sexy.

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  15. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 12:18 pm

    How about the original Caleche? It's probably been reformulated since I wore it ages ago, but I remember it as very bold and green. Zoe above mentioned incense; another one to try might be Armani Bois d'Encens (smells just like black pepper to me — lovely, but it doesn't last long). Here are some more shots in the dark: Dzonghka (L'Artisan), which smells quite cool and green on me; Patou's Vacances, also cool and ferny-green; and Vetiver Dance by Tauer. And I'll put in another vote for Bandit, which is about as brash as they come!

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  16. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 12:24 pm

    Here's another rec for a sexy tobacco scent: Jasmin et Cigarette, which is just what it sounds like (although more tobacco than smoke) and sexy as all get-out.

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  17. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 12:55 pm

    Dear Laura,

    How interesting you are! And the timing for your feature in The Monday mail couldn't be more perfect, because I just re-sampled two scents that would be perfect for you, I think.

    The first is Caron's Alpona in extrait. It is dark and mossy and unisex-but-feminine and incredibly complex. It's got massive WOW factor, but in a really smoldering, understated way, if that makes any sense. It is unique, rare and high-powered, just like you.

    The other is Amouage Jubilation 25 for women. It's a tad pricey but not by much, and it's totally worth it. It is one of the most fascinating and well-done green-ish, deep, creamy chypres I've ever sniffed, ever. A high-powered woman needs a scent like this; it's got incredible star power and is no-holds-barred gorgeous. Black belt perfumista stuff!!!!!!!!

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  18. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 12:56 pm

    Laura, I think you would really go for Andy Warhol Silver Factory (Bond no 9). It's almost an oudh for a while, and then dries down to a cool cedar. Definitely unisex, but as you wanted, tilts towards a feminine. I found it extremely sexy, but I don't love cedar enough to want to smell it on myself for hours and hours. The quality of ingredients is fantastic though, as is the lasting power, so be careful how much you apply. If you wanted to try it out and are in the Seattle area, Parfumerie Nasreen has it (Saks should also have it).

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  19. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 1:02 pm

    Robin posted a great review of Silver Factory on NST, which might help. I should add that part of the reason I didn't go for this is because it it's a little too take-charge and bold for me (seems like it'd work for you, though!).

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  20. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 1:06 pm

    MollyG, I'm impressed! Your recommendation of gs02 is inspired. You really know your stuff! I think Laura would love that green thing going on with it as well as the cool absinthe.

    A dry, herbs-hay-wood scent for you, Laura, might be PG's Bois Blond. If you lived in Southern California, it'll take you right back to those golden hills in autumn. . .

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  21. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 1:23 pm

    Kickin' it old school with suggestions of Diorella, Diorissimo or for the bad girl, Diorling. Dior has historically cornered the market on sleekly pulled-together and in-charge.

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  22. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 1:40 pm

    I'll join the chorus for OJ. In particular, I think Laura might like Ormonde Woman. It is cool, deep, and woody, feminine and sexy, and does not resort to any girly cliches. If L. doesn't want to spring for the sample set (though it is a wonderful value), she can get a small sample from The Perfumed Court. A full bottle is about $100 from the OJ website, including shipping.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 2:05 pm

    I thought of Cristalle immediately, then scrolled down to see Laura already likes it! Then I thought of OJ Woman and scrolled down to see the suggestion of getting a sampler set – great idea.

    The metallic route suggests irises to me, like Hiris or La Pausa as some have mentioned. Iris Silver Mist is too metallic for me, as is TDC Bois d'Iris, but I throw them out there.

    Bel Respiro I have just discovered and it is the reference green scent for me – I think it would be very classy for a high powered woman. Ditto Cuir de Russie. Cuir de Lancome is another nice (and cheaper) leather – though possibly a little sweet for Laura. Or the inimitable, incomparable 31 rue Cambon….?

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  24. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 2:09 pm

    Maybe Comme des Garcons 2? I think it is definitely an I'm-in-charge, yet alluring, scent, and Luckyscent has that cute small bottle. Might be better for work than for night, though. Hmmm.

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  25. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 2:35 pm

    Iris 39 by Le Labo…it smells like something very powerful…seriously.

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  26. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 3:11 pm

    I second the Hiris (cool notes, reasonably priced under $50 on the Bay) and second the Magie Noire (about $55, very come-hither, elegant, and not everyone wears it woody-chypre with civet). Also recommend the original Fendi if you can find it. Amazing chypre with leather note.
    Paloma Picasso's Mon Parfum for a mossy chypre. It's reasonably priced, not everyone wears it, and it lasts forever. I also think something from Sonoma Scent Studio, like their Wood Violet, with plum, cedar, cinnamon, clove, vetiver, violet leaf, and musk.
    Last but not least, by Hermes, Terre d' Hermes, it's woody, vegetal, mineral scent, with excellent staying power.

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  27. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 3:27 pm

    baghari by Piguet or the new Lady shiloh. Also SL Douce amere

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  28. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 3:29 pm

    third heure exquise

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  29. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 3:46 pm

    Laura, Silver Factory came to mind for me, too. It has a high quality, slightly dangerous vibe to it that's really sexy imo.

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  30. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 3:51 pm

    Bois Blond is a good call — if I'm remembering the right PG.

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  31. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 4:09 pm

    Agree on the Silver Factory. Also Bulgari Black and Dzing! if you find you like that kind of rubbery-ness. Give it a couple tries – I used to scoff but am now hooked. Black is one of my faves.

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  32. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 4:48 pm

    I'll second anything from Sonoma Scent Studio and also suggest the Champagne de Bois,which is a wonderful incense fragrance a la Chanel No 22, but not as cool and soapy -more rich woods and incense. Also the Ambre Noir – even though you don't like ambers – this one is like the smell of smoke & candles after you've blown them out- very dry, smokey, incense-y, “harem”….real stunner for the right woman. Same goes for Winter Woods.

    Also will suggest Flower by Kenzo/Winter Flowers which has a musky body type floral accord, and dries down to a strong woody musk. Not as delicate as you might think.

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  33. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 4:53 pm

    Also wanted to second Paloma Picasso – major league power scent that melds with the skin and lasts forever. A little goes a long way! Along these lines of major dry 80's chypres is Estee Lauder Knowing – total kick ass stuff. Now that I think about it – how about Estee Lauder Azuree – the original. If you like leather and dry chypre this is it. I know a woman who wears this exclusively, and she wafts into the room in a cloud of this stuff, and its just great!

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  34. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 6:10 pm

    I like to blend Baie de Genievre with Fleurissimo. Both are from Creed. At the time I was searching for a Chypre and the blending of the two created the sensual feel I was looking for.
    Fauberg 24 by Hermes is another nice Chypre or Miss Dior-but both alone were missing the sexiness.
    While it may be considered warm, Coco Mademoisellle is very sexy and shouldn't be ruled out.

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  35. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 6:48 pm

    Liking the OJ Woman, Bel Respiro (that's a green that cuts through you with zero pain), the Goutals, the Bois Blond.

    Adding a L'Artisan Fleur d'Narcisse — it's got the hay dry thing big time.

    The Magie Noir is an interesting suggestion…I wouldn't think of it under the given critieria, but I do nod my head along with Laura's likes, and I also like Magie Noir (as does spouse ;) )…

    I think maybe Envy has a chance, depending on how far you think it tilts feminine…has that metallic thang (more for some than others)…also maybe Frank Los Angeles, the original?

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  36. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 6:51 pm

    Sheesh, reread criteria one more time…Frank LA is *not* an evening come hither. Magie Noir is. Just read a review of Amyitis over at PST, which has me seriously lemming, and think it sounds like it is on the right track.

    So, cancel one Frank LA; replace with one Jacomo Silences.

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  37. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 7:12 pm

    P.S. Vis-a-vis Alpona, Laura, I see that blogmistress Robin wrote a great review, so if you wanted to see more just click above on Perfume Reviews and you'll find it under the Carons. Seems she likes it, too. . .

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  38. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 7:14 pm

    Ooh, thanks for saying that, R! And I have a feeling you're remembering right. Bois Blond is the epitome of 'grass & “dry brush” notes.'

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  39. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 7:16 pm

    Don't you think that Alpona would do the trick for lovely Laura as well?? I think it should be find-able without her going to Paris. . .?

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  40. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 7:29 pm

    Perhaps Montale's Aromatic Lime? Very deep, rich and I think, sexy, woody drydown, not girly. Second Miss Dior and while not overtly sexy, very commanding. Magie Noire, if I'm not mistaken has cvbeen destroyed in a reformulation, but try it at least. Aliage by Estee is very herbally green and unique. Private Collection by Estee is also a lovely, albeit slightly more vintage in tone, green chypre. Ahhh, so many perfumes, so little time. . .

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  41. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 11:30 pm

    Hello Laura, have you tried Paco Rabanne's Metal, or perhaps Estee Lauder's Aliage?

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  42. Anonymous says:
    19 January 2009 at 11:33 pm

    How about Aliage, by Estee Lauder, Or Metal by Paco Rabanne?

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  43. Anonymous says:
    20 January 2009 at 1:29 am

    I second Jubilation 25. The notes I like are very similar to what Laura likes, and it sounds like our lives are similar in many ways, down to where we live. Jubilation 25 is my go-to when I want to feel sexy & feminine without being girly. One thing worth noting, though is the cumin. I get a pronounced cumin note at the beginning that fades later in the drydown. It doesn't bother me but I know it might not be to everyone's taste.

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  44. Anonymous says:
    20 January 2009 at 3:02 am

    Fleur De Narcisse by L'Artisan, it has most of the loves you mentioned. Bulgari black?

    Good luck,

    Becca

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  45. Anonymous says:
    20 January 2009 at 5:38 am

    Magie Noire was my signature scent in the 80's, in so far as I had such a thing, and I thought it was fab, come hither, all those things. I only heard about the possible reformulation after I retried it last year and found the civet note disturbing, though it had never troubled me before. Wonder if that is an aspect that has been tweaked? Private Collection is exactly as Hollyc describes it, with a bit of a galbanum pain barrier at the start, till the floral bouquet breaks through.

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  46. Anonymous says:
    20 January 2009 at 5:42 am

    The slightly tricky thing about this brief is that the notes Laura likes are more traditionally used for day wear fragrances. To generalise shamelessly, many of the scents conventionally considered eveningy and “come hither” veer towards the orientals and gourmand end she doesn't care for.

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  47. Anonymous says:
    20 January 2009 at 1:42 pm

    Shiseido's Feminite du Bois (still available in shops here in Europe) – cedarwood and plums and hugely radiant. It always feels intelligent to me, but is very definitely alluring.

    Failing that, I'd suggest Habanita de Molinard – a great history, a rich, powerful feminine fragrance with tobacco, vetiver, vanilla combining to make something that is WAY more than the sum of its parts.

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  48. Anonymous says:
    23 January 2009 at 3:02 pm

    i can remeber, at about 5 yrs old, my mom getting ready to go out. my dad in his suit, and my mom in her heels and evening dress…

    Givenchy Xeryus is wafting off my dad, strong and manly. But my mother was pulsating with another smell – something not sickly sweet, but strong and controlled and clearly feminine. I had no idea what made it so, not knowing anything about frangrances… and i'v only just come to find out what it was – L'eau D'Issey pour femme. It may be a bit oriental, or mainstream, but it is my vision of the mother of two, thirty-something in control.

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