The ideal scent keeps the wearer interested, evolves with him or her; you can't "solve" it in one go like the plot of a bad detective novel. You need a perfect structure, like Chanel No 5, to keep you safe; and then from time to time you need to subvert expectations, with something that cuts against your style and even your gender. Scent is a demanding art. It privileges what is subjective, skin-close. So seek out what no one else is wearing. Keep a notebook. Scrub off your mistakes. New year is a time for experiment, re-definition, and perfume is a fine place to start.