Our victim this week is Kristen. Kristen is in her late 20s and works for a non-profit organization in California, about an hour from San Franciso. Her work takes her into both urban and rural areas. Here are a few more details about Kristen:
She loves eating, cooking, trying new restaurants and new kinds of Scotch.
Other likes: being outside, reading, spending time with friends & family, traveling.
She is liberal politically, but dresses conservatively.
Kristen's goal: to find an interesting, daring, and sophisticated daily scent. It has to be less than $150, and it'd be even better if it was less than $100.
Kristen's perfume history:
She was given a Chanel No. 5 gift set for her 16th birthday. She still loves it, but "it's too strongly associated with that period to wear regularly".
She has also at various times worn Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Jasmine, Orange Blossom and Lime, Basil, & Mandarin, Hermès 24 Rue Faubourg, and Mat by Masaki Matsushima (also a gift).
Kristen read The Emperor of Scent a few months ago, and then Perfumes: the Guide. This was followed by "a spate of sample orders", after which Kristen found some favorites for evening and special occasion wear: Bvlgari Black (she loves the rubber note most of all), L'Artisan's Timbuktu, Molinard Habanita, and Tauer Perfumes L'air du desert marocain. Kristen doesn't like any of these for a daily scent though.
Kristen likes green, smoky, powdery, spicy, dirty and woody notes. She does not like anything overly sweet or overly foody. She wants a touch of weird (Gucci Envy and Gucci Rush are pretty but not weird enough) but not too much weird (Etat Libre d'Orange Secretions Magnifique was a scrubber, although she did like Vraie Blonde and Jasmin et Cigarette).
Here are a few scents Kristen has tried in her search:
Guerlain Jicky: comes close, but too expensive.
Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver: almost perfect, she loves "the abstraction, the coolness, the green & peppery notes", but it's perhaps a little too quiet?
Lancome Hypnose: too much vanilla and too jarring.
Etro Anice: beautiful but she doesn't want to smell "so explicitly of anise".
Christian Dior Diorissimo: quite pretty but too much of a soliflore.
Nyako Safi: too syrupy sweet, and she doesn't like lychee.
L'Artisan Ananas Fizz: nice effervescence, but too lightweight and not enough staying power.
Trussardi Skin: indistinct and too quiet
Chanel Cristalle Eau de Toilette: perfect for Sunday brunch, but too sedate for an everyday scent.
Amouage Jubilation 25: she likes it, but it's too expensive and "almost too classic".
What say you?
First off, I do want to make sure Kristen knows she can find Guerlain Jicky for under $100. I did not do an exhaustive search for the best price, but did find the 100 ml Eau de Toilette spray refill (she won't get the pretty outer sheath) for $82 at beautyencounter.
Other suggestions: Kristen seems to like perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour (he is responsible for both L'Artisan Timbuktu and Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver). She might want to explore some of his other scents, if she hasn't already. Those that sprang to mind based on her other likes include L'Artisan Dzongkha, L'Artisan Fleur de Liane, Comme des Garcons Incense: Kyoto and Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose.
Note: image is Mailbox by cindy47452 at Flickr; some rights reserved.
ava luxe no.23…..$35/30ml…..nice “orienscense”….goodluck.
I know I tend to suggest that one too often, but Kristen's taste seem to call for it: have you tried l'artisan dzing! ? It is not green, but it could satisfy your thirst for ” smoky, powdery, spicy, dirty and woody notes”.
good luck!
b.
My own tastes don't run to dirty scents, but I do like woody, earthy notes. I think Kristen might like Hermes Hiris, which is an earthy, rooty yet ethereal iris, and very reasonably priced. If that doesn't work out, perhaps a smoky, yet refined, black tea scent like PG L'Eau Rare Matale. A great earthy rose with wine and truffle notes is FM Une Rose, but I don't know how Kristen feels about roses. Une Rose is definitely a very daring perfume. Paestum Rose is also a great rec – not daring exactly, but very interesting and gothic.
Kristen, Ava Luxe is an indie brand: http://www.ava-luxe.com/
Kristen, PG = Parfumerie Generale, FM = Frederic Malle (both listed under Perfume Houses @ bottom menu)
How about Hermes Eau des Merveilles, or Diorella (which reminds me of Jicky in ways)? A “weird” option would be L'Artisan Fou d'Abinthe or even possibly Mechant Loup. I think these can all be found in her price range.
I had a few ideas: Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile edt, Heeley Iris de Nuit–for quirky iris scents with some of the notes she likes, Commes des Garcons Paliander for woods and smoke, Etro Shaal Nur for some smoke and incense, and Guerlain Anisia Bella (disc. but avail at discounters) for a less straightforward anise. I am still trying to think of a peppery green– Poivre Piquant is probably too foody.
For green, dirty, and daring, how about Bandit? It's supposed to be chock full of leather, but what I get is a big, sharp green — definitely unique and definitely not quiet!
I think you should try Vivienne Westwood's Boudoir. It's floral/powdery and very very weird. It is not to strong
and the lastingpower is quite good.
My next suggestion is Dior Poison. This scent is very dark and fruity/spicy. In the drydown it is more powdery. The lastingpower is amazing and it is very weird, too! But maybe it is to strong and to weird.
And my last suggestion is Chanel N°5 Eau Première. If you like N°5 you have to try this one. It's like N°5 but more fresh and softer, The stayingpower is amazing.
I hope you will find your daily scent soon 🙂
I was thinking Diorella, too, especially because she likes Cristalle EDT.
Estee Lauder's Alliage (green, angular floral chypre) and original Azuree (citrus leather chypre) might fit the bill.
Hi Kristen, I think you should drive over to Healdsburg on a Saturday afternoon and visit Sonoma Scent Studio. Wood Violet, Champagne du Bois, Sienna Musk are all recs- very affordable too.
A few more that just squeeze into the budget:
Serge Lutens Chene, L'A Voleur de Roses, Strange Invisible Perfumes Musc Botanique and L'invisible
And think Robin's advice to seek out the Douchafors is right on.
Good luck.
Doh- and Feminite du Bois!
What about Bandit? Certainly not sweet, daring and a touch weird?
I'll second with spades anything from SSS – I was going to suggest the same as helenviolette…my favorite of SSS smokey incense is Champagne du Bois – just gorgeous.
I'll also suggest for day in the green powdery musky floral category: Annick Goutal Heure Exquise — Chanel No. 19 — and the newer Givenchy III. You can find them all for less than $100.
It may be a bit too expensive, but the new David Yurman may be interesting. It has a lot of white floral notes with cedar and musks. It didn't work for me, but would be dazzling on the right woman.
My thoughts are Tom Ford edt, it has great staying power and is a bit different, affordable ,and sexy. I also love Betsy Johnson and Narcisso , I agree on the Poison. Good Luck and have fun sniffing!
One more I forgot to add — I love scotch too, and Caron Parfum Sacre goes really well with it! I think its a perfume equivalent to it for the nose. It has a very smooth incense note you might like, and it can be worn for day.
Kristin –
Have you tried any of the Miller et Bertaux fragrances? l'eau de parfum #2 Spiritus / land AND l'eau de parfum #3 green, green, green and green are both wonderful everyday scents. Also, for a little “funk”, try Rose Poivrée by Different Company (cumin and rose).
Good Luck,
Marko
Based on her tastes, I would recommend Donna Karan's Black Cashmere. Good luck – so many to try, so little time!
That's 2 votes for Bandit. Kristen, you probably already know but that's by Robert Piguet.
The first thing that came to mind when reading “green, smoky, powdery, spicy, dirty and woody” was Dzongkha, even though the iris might sweeten it up a bit too much for her.
I'd also recommend that she get samples of all 5 Comme des Garcons Incense series, as well as Annick Goutal Mandragore.
Any success stories from previous “victims”?
I 2nd Parfum Sacre for Kristen
Go for the Jicky!
Also try Etro's Messe de Minuit and Palais Jamais.
If you feel like parking your car on the other side of the street, as it were, I'd highly recommend Cumming by Alan Cumming. It's appears to be a man's scent, but the copy calls it gender-neutral. I wear it quite a bit, and I think particularly on a woman, it's definitely daring and unique, quite sexy, and a little bit weird. The leather and whiskey notes, on my skin, really develop into the sublime.
I get a lot of compliments on it, especially from men. Sephora carries it for under $70.
wierd – kristen and i seem to be 'scent twins', in addition to being 'outdoor twins' and 'living about an hour out of sf' twins………. i'm going to third Bandit. i can't tell you how wonderful that scent is. you might also try tabac blond (caron). it's not the same since they reformulated (the vintage is amazing if you can scare some up) but is still very nice and wearable yet distinctive from the run of the mill perfumes out there.
best of luck and i'll be trying some of these recs myself!
Since Kristen has already worn a lot of Jo Malone, perhaps she'd like to try the new Sweet Lime & Cedar. It's green, and tho it's supposedly inspired by Thai food, it doesn't seem foody to me. And if she liked Diorissimo but thought it too much of a soliflore, she might want to try Delrae's Debut. I'd also like to be the third (or fourth?) to recommend Bandit. And for smoky, if she's going to check out Sonoma Scent Studio, she should also check out their Fireside and Fireside Intense. Have fun Kristen!
With all the recs for Bandit, I'm going to have to get my hands on it and try it…
This is coming out of left field but while I was reading this I kept thinking Comme des Garcons 2. It doesn't fit her notes particularly, but it is definitely weird, totally wearable and great for daytime.
Since she likes rubber, Paloma Picasso might be worth a try. It always smelled really rubbery to me.
Adding a third vote for Sonoma Scent Studio. Definitely worth trying some samples! Today I am wearing the Champagne du Bois. LOVE it! It has the aldehydes found in #5, but more woods and incense. I think of it as more modern than Chanel, with comparable quality. Great lasting power also.
http://www.sonomascentstudio.com/FragranceShop.shtml
Side note: For those who may have tried both Chanel #22 and the SSS Champagne du Bois, are they similar? TIA
Yes, adding Bandit to my must try list…such a long list. '~)
I was going to suggest Bandit and Dzing! as well although I think Dzing! is being discontinued.
If you like Jicky then you should be able to find some for under 100bucks quite easily, I think. I'm a big fan of it myself, it's gorgeous.
Also, what about some Ormonde Jayne scents. They are not exactly weird but they are a little bit different and unusual.
Joe, my original intention was to post follow-ups w/ all the participants, but to be honest, I just don't have time. Maybe if the fragrance industry implodes and we go back to 500 scents a year instead of 1000…
Kristen sounds like my scent twin, too, and I've been very happy lately with Prada Infusion d'Homme. It's clean and powdery, with an undercurrent of incense. There's definitely a lot going on with it, but it's quiet enough for everyday. I fell in love with it the second I put it on! Not only that, but I get compliments on it from everyone from my students (I teach reading at an adult school) to my friends, even when I think the scent is long gone.
The price is very right, too. The smallest bottle is around $50.
I just keep thinking Cumming, by Alan Cumming. I like men's scents for daytime on a woman, and it's got that great outdoor damp with whiskey thing going on.
I think my first post didn't work, so:
I fully agree with Dzongkha and Dzing! (keep on buying it, people, maybe it won't be discontinued then), and suggest, for the smoky-side of things:
1) lonestar memories (Andy Tauer): don't worry if it's supposed to be the ultimate sophisticated cowboy-perfume, it goes very nicely soapy-smoky on me (female)
2) iris taïzo, parfumerie generale
Yes – they are very similar. I'd say that No 22 has more of a traditional rose note and CdB doesn't get as soapy as No 22 in that traditional fragrance way. Anyone who likes No 22 would like CdB…and given how hard it is to get No 22, CdB is an excellent alternative. It has a wonderful light sillage and lasts a long time. The dry down is a light, but rich woody incense. It is more intimate that the uber-sophisticated No 22. You could easily take No 22, Caron Parfum Sacre, and SSS CdB and see an immediate fragrance association, even though they are all different for sure.
I am also going to suggest Hiris for her powdery/earthy crave. She said she likes it a “little” weird so L'eau rare matale sounds good for her as well. I love teas, I am not sure about Kristen, but this is also a very earthy scent that's just perfect for day time wear.
Woody. . . do I hear Miel de Bois by Serge Lutens or perhaps Daim Blond by him as well? I find Serge fragrances very different from mainstream, and while I don't personally like them, they are very unique. Also too Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose is a very lovely rose hovering above a bed of cedar. Well done and very classy.
Two I haven't seen mentioned yet are Parfum D'Empire's Cuir Ottoman and try it sprayed, not dabbed! The leather top notes are complex and peaty like single malt scotch, but the benzoin, iris and jasmine adds a femininity to it — it is smoky, powdery, resinous, slightly edgy but still very wearable.
Also for a spicy dirty green floral, I'm thinking she should try Delrae Amoureuse. I love this one, it's green but also warm. It can be so memorable on the right skin and is unique. Isn't it also supposed to smell like SF box trees? (Although I lived in SF for 5 years and never knew what a box tree smelled like, that is not why I love this scent.)
Me too! It really is something, isn't it?
I second all the SSS recs, and although this isn't really my area of expertise, was thinking maybe of Poussiere de Rose or Rosine Rose Kashmirie which are respectively smoky and spicy. The Rose Kashmirie has a similar powdery feel to No 5 / 22.
On the green front, “weird” could be Fleur de Sel by Miller Harris or “Sel de Vetiver” from TDC. TDC Rose Poivree would indeed tick the dirty box though it is not my cup of tea at all!
Oh and you can't indeed go wrong with Black Cashmere at any time of day or night!
Boudoir is inspired! That is positively pyrotechnic in its behaviour, with powder and spice and fizzing projectiles and dirt in abundance… and meets the weird requirement in spades!
Robin, how about something like an open thread for this? I'd love to share the results of my ongoing experimentation, and you could just notify all us Monday Mail victims a few days before and then let us do all the work via the comments…
Maybe you can add an edge to the quarterly review- and encourage the recent monday mail recipients to identify themselves when they spill their guts re: their recent acquisitions…just a thought…
Hi Kristen! I love these threads because I always end up learning a lot. You're an interesting challenge! I'd suggest that you to consider trying three exceptional and unique fragrances from The Different Company. They are near the upper end of your price range, but very special, IMO. Check the descriptions out on the Luckyscent site and see what you think about BOIS DE IRIS, ROSE POIVREE, and UN PARFUM DES SENS ET BOIS. I see that several others already thought of Rose Poivree, which I love. The other two both have a wonderful woody aspect. Best wishes with your quest!
Great call on the TDC Rose Poivree, and I want to add an extra vote for Bandit. What about Bond's Silver Factory which I find verrrrry weird, indeed. I'd like to add to the CdG Incense series: Ouzazarte which you might know already. It is spicy woods and definitely different.
Me Tooo I want to try Bandit! it sounds wonderful, oh my , the perfume budget must be revamped….:)
How about… Relaxing Fragrance by Shiseido, a very green non-sweet but still elegant perfume ? Or Sisley, Eau de Campagne also very green and more sportive.
Hi everyone!! Kristen here. I've been on the road to Humboldt County all day & the first thing I did after tumbling out of the car was to get online & read this post & all the suggestions.
Can't wait to start delving into them–some really great ideas & lots of perfumes I haven't heard of before! Thanks, all.
I've come across three green, woody, dirty scents recently, Givenchy III, Or Black, and Mystra, that have a lot in common. Givenchy III is a bit more floral (and can be bought from the Sephora online shop, about $80-85 for 100ml), Or Black has more leather (it can be bought as a small refill from the Pascal Morabito site, although you have to pay in euros and have it shipped from Europe, who knows what that comes to in dollars these days), and Mystra smells dirtier (but Aesop can't ship it here, so you can't get it unless you know someone in Australia or the UK).
Another thing, you're going to have to check out the stores near Union Square in SF – Barney's, Neiman Marcus, Saks, Bloomingdale's, Nordstrom, Diptyque, Hermes, Chanel, Jacqueline's , and so on, they're all within walking distance of each other. They have things you can't find anywhere else in the Bay Area, even at the same company's stores in the suburbs.
I second the Ava Luxe No. 23 – it's definitely different, yet very wearable and my go-to scent for all occasions. And how about Hermes Kelly Caleche? It's a very wearable leather with many of the notes Kristen seems to like.
How about:
Magie Noir by Lancome or Paloma Picasso's Mon Parfum?
Both are green/woody/mossy with a touch of rose, and they are in her budget.
Good luck, Kristen! You sound as though you have a very open-minded and quirky nose, and it's clearly been a lot of fun for everyone to try and think of what you might love. Can't really add anything to the suggestions — some really inspired ones have been mentioned and I'm sure you'll find several you'll be lemming. Thanks, Robin, for choosing Kristen; I see that you really try (and succeed) to give us a unique challenge each Monday. This may have been the most challenging one yet!
(P.S. Any of the Bertrand D's and the TDCs mentioned above get my vote; Rose Poivree in particular is just about as lovably quirky as they come. Also, one of the Miroir, Miroir series in particular — Robin, you'd remember: it's the green one with absinthe, crisp and eminently quirky, but beautifully done — strikes me as as strong contender.)
I would love to know what all your guinea pigs wind up loving, R, and I'm sure I'm not the only one; as someone mentioned, it would be fascinating AND helpful to have the follow-up story. What will Kirsten adore? What will she loathe? Inquiring nostrils want to know!
I like both of those very much! I noticed that Paloma Picasso is being advertised again, too…
I second Joe! I'd love to see the results!
How about Niki De Saint Phalle for weird and green?
I'd be willing to try an open thread every few months, good idea. I'll see if I can pull that together soon.
I'll second CdG2–it's the same one that occurred to me when I read this. It's got a woody/musky “feel” to it, but as for notes it's so weird as to be basically indescribable–completely gorgeous, though. $50-78 at LuckyScent.
Pretty much any of the CdGs are good for 'weird,' though. The incenses are nice, but a bit 'intense' for my taste (as is L'Air du Desert Marocain, for comparison purposes).
Thank you AnneS! Adding No 22 and Parfum Sacre to the list. Rose and incense frags are calling my name. I need to try layering some CdB with one of Laurie's (SSS) beautiful roses. Yesterday I wore AG Encens Flamboyant and LA Passage D Enfer with a drop of my diluted rose essential oil…loverly.
(Sorry to hijack your thread Kristen)
I have a bottle of Bandit but I must be the only one out there who just can't get into it. I can see why it is so loved but just not my thing! As for a rec, how about Calyx by Perscriptives? I find this nice and green. It really reminds me of Grass by Gap.
is anyone else reminded of Aromatics Elixyr by Clinique when wearing Rose Poivree? Every time I wear the Rose Poivree, I look around to see who is wearing the Aromatics and then realise that the scent is coming from me!
I like Marrakech better than Mystra but both are nice! I reckon that I could have my arm twisted to send some out in exchange for a little something that is nigh on impossible to get here! I live in one of the smaller capital cities in Australia and it is hard to get anything that is not main stream department store fare. I have found it useful to cultivate connections in other countries for the rarer things that I can't get here. I have found a great personal shopper in America who goes to Paris once a month and for the right price, will pick up anything you want. Costly but well worth it.
Oh wow! My all time fail-safe, man-magnet perfume is Lancome's Magie Noir. I am so glad someone else besides me still loves it. I horde it because I am terrified it will be discontinued. The SA's at Lancome always try to push tresor on me and ewww no! I just smile and say give the old stuck in her ways lady what she wants,please. LOL!
Hi, this is my first post; hope it's useful. I think Bandit is a great, interesting choice for Kristen. That brought to my mind another leather chypre she might like to try, Cabochard by Gres. This struck me as a more ladylike version of Bandit, indeed, the ladylike quality seems weirdly at war with the smoky leather. According to some reviewers, the modern version (quite inexpensive at discounters or Filene's Basement) is a pale reflection of the original, but it does cost very little to try. . ..
It's true, whenever I wear Magie Noir, I get lots of compliments, from men and women. I horde mine too! I wish they still made the body cream, it was luscious!!
How about Ormonde Woman? Weird, green, and woody, plus the EdP can be had for about $90 plus shipping.
i find frederic malle l'eau d'hiver to be like bulgari black's little sister (i may be the only one…)
Hi AussieBec,
I don't get Bandit either, and Joy for that matter. I can appreciate they are great scents. But they go to the dark side on me.
Calyx smells a bit more fruity to me than Grass, both are really nice though!
I live in SF and I have no clue what box tree smells like either!
to be brutally frank, my mom smelled bandit on a scent strip when i was visiting, and she made me take it out of her house! she thought it was completely gross. so it's definitely one to 'sample' to make sure!
although i have to say that the faces she made were worth the experience.
If you are going for incense, you should also try the SSS Vintage Rose, which is very beautiful.
Hmmm, I have Champagne de Bois and a sample of Vintage Rose, will try it. Thanks AnnS!