While we're on the subject of Serge Lutens Arabie's extended family (see yesterday's review of El Attarine), it's worth considering Parfum d'Empire's newish Aziyadé, a kissing cousin at the very least. Aziyadé is named for the main character — a harem girl — of the novel of the same name, and unless I've lost count, is the second fragrance from Parfum d'Empire to take inspiration from the Ottoman Empire (the first being Cuir Ottoman). Those of you who are familiar with the various olfactory portraits of this region will recognize the usual suspects in the notes: pomegranate, dates, almonds, orange, prune, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, cumin, carob, frankincense, vanilla, patchouli, musk and cistus.
Yes, Aziyadé is another specimen of the stewed fruits + curry spices genre, although the stewed fruits are mostly in the top notes, and they're given some lift and tartness here by the pomegranate. Once the top notes fade, for a time it's nearly a straight-up spice fest. The dry down is woody and only slightly vanillic (it's more dry than sweet), with mild incense and amber.
It could be a pared down Arabie, but it's pared down in a very different way than El Attarine. Aziyadé is closer to spicy-foody than El Attarine, and the woods aren't as velvety-smooth. It's lighter and drier than Arabie, and possibly more wearable: that all depends on how you feel about cumin. I'm hard pressed to say which fragrance has more cumin — one day it seemed to be Arabie, the next, Aziyadé. I will say that because Aziyadé is a less foody-rich scent than Arabie, the cumin seems to stand out more, and it deepens considerably as it dries down.
Aziyadé has had mixed reviews so far:
The richness of Ottoman Turkey turns out to be this - supermarket brand cola spilled on an old leather jacket. I like it enough, but it’s sub-Arabie (probably sub-Dinner by Bobo, but I’ve never smelled that) and didn’t excite me.
That's Lee over at Perfume Posse. As it turns out, I'm in about the same boat as Lee. I like it well enough, but I'm not even close to enchanted, and the only reason I'm not firmly in the "no" camp is that the first couple hours are so enjoyable. After that, it's mostly cumin-infused pencil shavings on me. Those of you who read here regularly know I love pencil shavings; cumin, not so much.
Parfum d'Empire Aziyadé is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum. For buying information, see the listing for Parfum d'Empire under Perfume Houses.
I was not fond of this one either. I actually received a few “what are you wearing?” comments, but in the end I decided I just wasn't overly loving it and I e bayed it. Ironically enough, I just e bayed Arabie as well. I rather like gourmand scents, but not stewed fruits. There are some fruit scents I'm liking…ie the new Byredo Pulp. Ciao!
I have the same feeling as you and Lee on Aziyadé — granted, it didn't get any skin time, but the scent strip put me off (though I dutifully kept it and re-sniffed it throughout the week). Like many of the Parfums d'Empire, it seems a bit derivative and not particularly well executed. Shame: the perfumer, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, is a very nice gentleman and I'd be happy to love his stuff, but it always seems to me that his compositions are tweaked versions of other, more distinctive fragrances (even down to some of the names… Cuir Ottoman = Cuir Mauresque; Ambre Russe = Ambre Sultan, Osmanthus interdite = Osmanthe Yunnan, the “interdite” being an allusion to the “Forbidden City” in Beijing)…
Wow, you're fast — you've owned it & disposed of it before I've even gotten around to trying it! Will have to try that Byredo — you've beat me to the punch on those too.
I thought the PdE Osmanthus could stand on its own, but so far, it's the only one from the line I'd really love to have.
All this cumin talk reminds me of when I saw the Funkmaster George Clinton (from Parliament) at the airport. I walked rather near him and he smelled deliciously of pure cumin. I wanted to tell him how nice he smelled but that is a rather personal comment from a stranger to a celebrity and I chickened out. I kind of kick myself now.
This made me laugh. Thanks. I had gotten the impression from a few reviews and comments that this was much more fruity, perhaps (and in any case, I wasn't as curious about it as the other PdE release, Yuzu Fou).
The more comments I read about El Attarine the more I realized that I really did find it VERY foody, at least up top (it becomes mellower and richer and more complex as it dries down). Maybe I'm just getting something others aren't. In any case, thanks (I think) for piquing my interest in Ayizade, if only for comparison purposes.
Ambre Russe is going to be my next full bottle purchase, and I'd also like Cuir Ottoman.
I plan on trying this but the pomegranate, date, almond, and prunes scared me a little bit.
“cumin-infused pencil shavings” sounds pretty good to me though
Wow – there is a lot of spice/cumin fragrances out at the same time, isn't there?
Cumin scented pencil shavings sounds delicious. But cola spilled on a leather jacket sounds gross.
Must test!
That's so funny! Wonder what it could have been…
The opening is much more fruity, but I'd say it doesn't stay fruity nearly as long as your average SL.
I was more tempted by the Yuzu Fou too, but unfortunately, Yuzu Fou is absolutely HORRIBLE on me.
You might like the dry down better than the opening then. Actually, come to think of it I'm not sure I really noticed the almond. Maybe wasn't looking for it…
There really are, but then, there are a lot of fragrances period, so stands to reason that you'll get more spice/cumin maybe? Or maybe not.
I didn't get the cola + leather jacket, but thought it was a great description.
Yoú know, I'd only subliminally noted the similarity between El Attarine and Aziyade, but now you've mentioned it, it's so obvious! I underliked both of them on account of the curry influence; if absolutely forced to wear one of them, I'd pick Aziyade, which seemed slightly less foody to me. I love Cuir Ottoman passionately – don't see much resemblance to Cuir Mauresque apart from the fact they're both leather frags – but I haven't fallen for the others in the line despite the fact they 'should' appeal to me given their notes. I keep hoping that the next one will hit the note that CO did. I just love the design of the bottles, the labels and the tube packaging; I'm SO shallow! I didn't know the story behind the name – many thanks for the link. What a lovely name!
You know, I wouldn't have noticed any similarity between Aziyade & El Attarine either…more like connecting the dots via Arabie, if that makes sense.
I love the PdE packaging too — very simple, & reminds me of the old L'Artisan bottle cap which I liked. But something keeps me at the “like, don't love” stage for all of them but the Osmanthus.
I stand by my Ambre Russe. Love it!
I love, love, love Fougère Bengale. I will have to give this one at least a sniff (and revisit Osmanthus Interdite) but all of these curry fragrances just make me hungry.
Anyone who calls an album, “Smell My Finger” should be prepared to be spoken to about cumin at an airport. It might not have been cumin, it might just have been the Funkmaster.
Cumin? Erg. And I used to decry lychee! How I miss those simpler days. To my shock, I am starting to sniff and like florals, something I never considered before. I just can't get around to loving cumin. Too armpit-y for me.
The cumin smell could also have been his dreads? Some hair dressing oils for curly or dreads have a spicy smell to them.
I liked Ambre Russe too.
I know what you mean.
You never know what you'll come around to, really! Even a smidge of cumin used to make me crazy.
When I first sniffed this I thought “Arabie Lite!” which on further thought isn't fair to either. I liked it alot to begin with but then the cumin got too much and I'm pretty cumin tolerant. I'm pleased that it's a 50ml bottle rather than their usual gigantic 100mls which have always put me off investing in any of the PdEs in the past. The Osmanthus one is very lovely but still not as lovely (to me) as Osmanthe Yunnan. Maybe I'll try this one again.
I agree they are derivative, but I happen to like PdE's versions better than the originals they are copying (with the exception of Osmanthe Yunnan). I have and enjoy Aziyade very much – my boss loves it on me too. I do get a distinct cumin note, which can be difficult for me, but this one is not off-putting.
You know, in some sense these comparisons are rarely fair, but in another, sometimes it's the quickest shorthand when you're trying to tell people what something smells like, you know?
Agree on the small bottles, absolutely.
That could definitely have been it – it was definitely not cologne-ish, more a part of his being, like he ate a lot of it and it was coming from his pores. Although there is nobody quite like him I was shocked at myself for a) recognizing him and b) remembering his name. I am terrible with celeb recognition. My friend saw a woman with huge sunglasses, huge scarf on her head, barely her nose peeking out, and said, Oh look, it's Lena Horne. I wouldn't have had a clue.
Sniffed Osmanthus today. Very nice Robin.
I'd love a bottle of that one…
I can see why someone called Aziyade ‘Arabie Lite’ on first impression, it’s an apt description.
It’s not an unpleasant smell but when I tried it on I instantly wanted to wash it off again and that’s what I did with a wet towel. Not quite sure why I had this reaction, I think it was the vanilla, which is not so obviouis on a sample paper but noticeble on one’s skin.
I love to eat anything with vanilla in it, but I loathe it on my skin or in scented candles where it tends to nauseate.
Sounds like you liked it considerably less than I did! Oh well, you can always stick with Arabie.