Stefanie is single, in her late 20s, and has been a fragrance addict since she was 6 years old. She's now living in Zurich and working for a well-known fragrance brand. Stefanie is very much into fashion, and changes her hair style and color regularly.
Stefanie wants our help in finding her winter 2008 fragrance. She wants something comforting, warm, dark, sensual, sexy, possibly with a "trashy edge". It should be unusual, but not loud (nothing like Thierry Mugler Angel or Christian Dior Poison).
Stefanie likes... jasmine, rose, amber, musk, hinoki wood, sandalwood, fig, fragrances with a touch of the masculine, and vanilla so long as it is not too gourmand. Her summer favorites include Marc Jacobs for men, Marc Jacobs Splash (Cucumber, Grass and Rain), Hermès Jardin sur le Nil & Jardin après la Mousson, Stella McCartney Stella In Two Peony, Etro Etra & Viccolo Fiori, and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.
Her current winter rotation includes Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise (nice, but not sexy enough, and lasting power not good), Stella McCartney Stella (likes the vintage feeling), Stella McCartney Stella In Two Amber solid (too close to the skin, would love this in a darker, more sensual version), Joop Le Bain (loves it, but wants new options), Escentric Molecules Escentric 01 and Molecule 01 (wants something stronger & bolder).
Stefanie doesn't like... fruity florals, too much incense, very foody fragrances, too much citrus. The Estee Lauder brand.
Here are some fragrances she has tried recently, but that didn't work: Bvlgari Jasmin Noir (not dark enough, too short lived), Comme des Garçons Monocle Hinoki (too woody), Serge Lutens Clair de Musc (not sexy and daring enough), Prada Infusion d’Iris (too understated), Calvin Klein Secret Obsessions (could be a bit more daring and darker), DKNY Delicious Night (too sweet and banal), Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory (too brutal, too much incense), Bond No. 9 Chinatown ("not doing it for me"), Bvlgari Omnia (too much sandalwood, then it just fades away), Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison (too much vanilla, too many people wearing it).
What say you?
My top three picks are Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute and Tauer Perfumes L'air du désert marocain, both of which qualify as warm, dark, unusual, sexy ambers, and Hors Là Monde Shiloh, a dark vintage rose with sex appeal (and a fragrance that doesn't get nearly the attention it deserves). Other possibilities: Serge Lutens Chergui (or possibly Ambre Sultan, although I'm not sure if that will be too sweet), and Ambre Soie from the Armani Privé line.
Note: image is Distinguished Shadow by Artiii at Flickr; some rights reserved.
How about Idole by Lubin? dark, woody – a bit boozy but nothing uber sweet, definitely unusual. Also an older but an animalic dark trashy goody – Parfum de Peau by Claude Montana. Btw R, here's a link to a mini interview with the founder of strange invisible perfumes that was in the beauty blog section of style.com a few days ago – http://www.style.com/beauty/beautycounter/2008/10/strange-invisible-perfumes-cosmic-connection/
she might also like L'artisan's L'eau du Navigateur – dark, woody, slightly coffee-spice like, masculine but warm enough to be worn easily by women. I find it quite sexy and mysterious.
Hmmm. I'm focusing on the rose, for whatever reason, plus as much of the other criteria as possible…and come up with three. 1. Amouage Lyric Woman, because it sat on my left wrist yesterday and is just an incredibly well done complex scent, is dark and I find it comforting at stage three, though there is no “trashy edge.” 2.&3. Would be Schiaparelli Shocking and Vivienne Westwood Budoir. Shocking goes absolutely dark and edgy on friends of mine; actually stays “nice” on me–though I haven't tried the vintage. Budoir, well, you know.
WAIT! Trashy edge? 4. McQueen, Kingdom. There's the rose that dares speak its name.
Off to get tea…perhaps my thoughts will change entirely…
The one that immediately springs to mind is l'Artisan's Voleur de Roses, which is a great dirty rose.
I'd also check out Ungaro III, a more rich dark rose.
Both are ostensibly aimed at men, but would be glorious on a woman…
If Stefanie is feeling very bold, she should try Caron's Yatagan. This is one of the great men's fragrances and I adore it. I would also LOVE to meet the woman who could carry it off!
Ok…well I was going to suggest the Tauer and Chergui and then saw your post…so great picks
How about Juliette has a Gun Citizen Queen? I sampled this throughout the weekend and find it very compelling! The Luckyscent write-up was identical to my experiance with it!
Le Labo Vanille 44 is my favorite warm, woody, incense fragrance!!
Third choice…Solange Stoned or Cosmic which might be a better choice with the dirty jasmine!
“Trashy edge”…hmm…carnal, “old-school” kick?
1. “Arpege” by Lanvin. Daring, in that flapper way and rich in composition.
2. “Voleur de Roses” L'Artisan Parfumeur. Rosy, fig-sweet but with a quiet earthiness to it.
3. “Isvaraya” by Indult. Incensy but not smoky-dry–sweet, plummy and distinctive (very strong if applied heavily, though!).
4. “Eau Suave” Parfum d' Empire. Spicy rose with a cranberry and eucalyptus kick.
5. “Black Orchid” by Tom Ford. Spicy, creamy-sweet with a hint of grunge.
Wildcard:
6. “L' Heure Bleue” by Guerlain. Rosy-feminine, while also edgy and moody. There's a hazy, worn-in sensuality to it.
She might try one I just got and am it love with: Tocade, for the comforting, warm, sensuous aspects. It's rose and vanilla with a touch of smokiness. I guess it could be “trashy” if you wore enough of it
Thanks for the link, I missed that one!
How about Habanita? great for winter- smoky leathery flowers with a touch of vanilla- sexy/loud/perhaps a bit trashy but lovable- I recommend the parfum/EdP rather than the Edt…
Also- the new Private Collection Amber and Ylang Ylang (I know she doesn't do Estee Lauder but based on the other stuff she likes I think it is worth a test and as they say- There is a 1st time for everything…)
One more idea- Frederic Malle Une Rose- IMO, could win a sexiest rose competition
How about a dirty dark rose like Magie Noir, especially if she can find it in parfum form. Bal a Versailles has a wee bit of a skanky note at the bottom, as does AG Ce Soir ou Jamais. Also, Guerlain Vol de Nuit has a great warm oriental powdery top, but then it develops this warn leathery underside….very much like a lady on the outside and a leather wearing not-so-much-a-lady underneath.
hello typo — I meant to say worn leathery – like some soft old rich sensual leather….
Hey! If you dare, I second the recommentation of Yatagan – apply lightly! The less bold, but still gorgeous, Dior Jules might also tempt you. Finally, you might love serge lutens' Muscs Koublai Khan. With a light application – which is what the lutens employees at le palais royal seem to recommend – it turns into a to die for warm and soft, strange and dirty animalic aura. Good luck! b.
How about Armani Prive Eclat de jasmine?
MKK first sprung to mind for the naughty element, for sure. But then, I thought of the splendid French line of Parfums MDCI. Enlevement au Serail is dense, dark and racy, with Turkish rose, sandalwood and vetiver, or, if a touch of the masculine gets her pulse racing, perhaps their Ambre Topkapi, with rosewood, sandalwood, leather, amber and musk. These are incredibly well-made scents and she won't be smelling them on everyone, to say the least. If they're pricy — the packaging is over-the-top — she might find decants in the usual places online. Good luck! You're in good hands here.
Jasmin et Cigarette! It was recommended to me here not so long ago, and I love love love my sample. Very pretty jasmine with a cigarette overlay: definitely trashy, but elegant too — invokes the idea of trashiness rather than trash itself.
More sexy trash: PG's l'Ombre Fauve. As the French say: “Une olfaction animale. Son raffinement bestial.” Down and dirty, and very well-made: serious sillage and longevity. Nuthin' lady-like and demure about this one!
Versace The dreamer to me is comforting, dark, not too loud, unusual and very sexy.
She might do well to go to the Opus Oils website and get the sample pack of the Fetish collection. Plenty of interesting, slightly skanky things to try!
And, because I have to say it – Bulgari Black.
Lots of great suggestions so far….here's my 2 cents –
1. Musc Ravageur – comforting and sexy
2. Jasmine de Nuit AND Rose Poivree (a little skank and Rose never hurt anybody)
3. White Aoud/Black Aoud – both are nice and may suit Stefanie perfectly.
4. Ambre Precieux – a great, warm amber
Good luck Stefanie!
Awesome! Another fan of Jasmin et Cigarette! I love it too. I bought 2 bottles of it a month or two ago and that is the first time I have ever bought 2 bottles at the same time of the same perfume. So, is there a full bottle in your future?
Dawn
Hi,
I am seconding the suggestion of Black Orchid. I can't wear it myself, but my husband found it super sexy.
Would also like to recommend Noir de Noir by Tom Ford. Think crimson rose for this one. It's sexy but I do not get a trashy note. Just thought I'd mention it anyway.
Someone else also recommended Jasmin et Cigarette and I am seconding that one also. It's one of my faves and has the most of the elements that you are looking for.
You have already gotten lots of great recs. Have fun sampling.
Dawn
Some great suggestions so far. Dark dirty rose is one of my favorite categories, and to exit the mainstream, I'd recommend Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Inner Sanctum, which is my winter holy grail rose. Samples are available from the DSH website. Ava Luxe, another independent perfumer, offers Madame X, which is one of the darkest and sexiest perfumes I've ever smelled. Agent Provocateur is another slightly stanky rose. Samples available of both from the perfumedcourt.com.
Sounds to me that you are the girl for Piquet Fracas or Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 or Tauer Vetiver dance or Vivienne Werstwood Boudoir ;);)
How about:
Tauer Le Maroc Pour Elle (rose over a deep woody base)
Aroma M Geisha Noire
Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengence ( rose, vanilla, patch)
Yes, definitely FBW! I think you're the one who recommended it to me (Natalie from the Monday Mail a few weeks ago), and following a humongous sample binge, it's one of the 3 or 4 recs that really knocked my socks off. THANK YOU!
How about Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon (sexy woody oriental), Roja Dove Scandal (decant only as the price is scandalous!) or L'Arte di Gucci (dirty rose)?
I second Tauer's L'air du desert marocain…She might also try Chanel's Cormandel – it is a wonderful, spicy scent, with enough vanilla to keep the incense in line. I'm in love with it and i think it's definitely worth a try.
Can't believe no one's recommended Parfum d'Empire's Ambre Russe so here's my vote. It is a huge, over the top amber, with leather, honey, and black tea notes. Sexy as all get out and yes, just a wee bit trashy, but apply it with a steady hand and it won't be Angel-sized…
Natalie! Do say what your other winners were!
I am thirding the suggestion for Black Orchid, even Black Orchid Voile de fleur. Also, YOSH Ginger Ciao. Yes, there's coconut there, but barely detectable. It's dirty, sexy, scandalous, black patent leather stilettos that won't kick you in the face.
Also, Tom Ford White Patchouli or SL Daim Blonde. The SL is super buttery leather made softer by some gaucho's hard work.
I am thirding the suggestion for Black Orchid, even Black Orchid Voile de fleur. Also, YOSH Ginger Ciao. Yes, there's coconut there, but barely detectable. It's dirty, sexy, scandalous, black patent leather stilettos that won't kick you in the face.
Also, Tom Ford White Patchouli or SL Daim Blonde. The SL is super buttery leather made softer by some gaucho's hard work.
Hi Natalie! I remember now. :)) So, good to hear that you liked it. That's so cool. If you decide to order a full bottle, call the Henri Bendel store in NYC and ask for Gerard Merola in fragrances. He's the best. He gave me this phone # which is the direct line to the fragrance dept. – 212-904-7990.
Have a good one and see ya around here.
Dawn
I second the Agent Provocateur (one of my faves) and must add two other sexy rose perfumes in my rotation: Black Rosette from Strange Invisible Perfumes-a bit pricy but it's dark and delicious with notes of leather, smoky tea and mint. It's not incense-y (yuk!), but dark and unapologetic. Also Twill Rose, an animalic rose from Les Parfums de Rosine.
I agree completely with L’ Air du Desert Marocain, and I think Tauer's Lonestar Memories might also work for Stefanie. Guerlain's Jicky could also work, as could Amber Extreme from L'Artisan. Good luck, Stefanie, and have fun with your search!
I heartily second the Une Rose recommendation! In Une Rose I feel fresh and pretty and earthy and sexy all at the same time. I think it's a fantastic fragrance, perhaps my top favorite at this moment.
The L'air du Désert Marocain and Bulgari Black suggestions seem appropriate. And I can't seem to wear Black Orchid, but when I sampled it I could see how its edgy appeal could fit the right person.
Does it have to be new? If not, how about Prada, or Kelly Caleche?
Your summer favorites sounds pretty much like mine, and though I don't have much of a winter list yet. . . thought you might like two that I do.
Stefanie, please forgive a brief hijacking… My winners (so far) are:
*CdeG 2 Woman (LOVE the ditto-paper note! I invested in a full bottle of this just yesterday)
*Jasmin et Cigarette
*L'Air du Desert Marocain
*Black Tourmaline (never thought it would work on me, but it does)
I haven't tried all the recs (not even close!), but my odd skin chemistry turns 90% of what I try into something cheap 'n' nasty. SL's Encens et Lavande, for example, was just vile on me — like the tiny bar of deodorant soap in a Motel 6, or maybe a squeezed-out moist towelette. I know, I know, I'm a fragrance Philistine!
Thanks so much, Dawn! I was in NYC just yesterday but only had time for Barney's. I will call Gerard when I'm feeling a bit more flush…
[Smacks forehead] D'oh! Forgot that one!!
[walks away shaking head]
Just when I was getting comfortable as a non-skanky gal…first I forget my Magie Noire, which I have loved from first smell, and now I hear another favorite described as “sexy” and “bestial.” And I was thinking it was a comfort scent….
Hello Stefanie. Here is what sprang to mind:
Opium and Samsara by YSL…might be too pedestrian?
Bulgari Black, unisex, edgy, Angelina wears it.
D&G Light Blue for men
Rapture by Victoria's Secret-a bold Bulgarian Rose-*very different* and their 2Nd scent-over 20 years old and still there, before their fruit and/or sugar always goes into fragrance mindset, and Heavenly also made it, it's basically Peony and musk
Tom Fords Black Orchid Voile DE Fleur
and I wholeheartedly agree with his White Patchouli
and lastly Fifi Chachnil-rose and then spicy and smoky and then rose again! Not for an introvert!
Good Luck and Joy,
Becca
I 2nd Voleur de Roses, Black Orchid, Ambre Sultan and Chergui. What about Trouble by Boucheron or is that too much vanilla? or Samsara? I was also thinking Le Parfum de Therese (definitely sexy and the jasmine is very prominent to my nose) but whether she would classify this as a “fruity floral” I'm not sure..
Dior poison isn't loud, its truly dark sweetness reveals only after some time, at first touch as liquorice is old fashioned and dry and you might hate it, but then the loud gets to fade away like magic during the hours to become the glory of midnight, feminine is an attribute for a scent that won't fit any man skin such as this soft velvety delicate fragrance, and secondly it makes it chic for particular occasions to avoid the assaulting notes used by daytime perfumes, those ones lively strong and brief scents compared to this long lasting one. I feel a young woman charme will disclose slowly by its freshness on the winter nights..
second Bvlgari Black. it's comforting yet sexy and edgy.
…hmmm, what about GUERLAIN's Jardin de Bagatelle layered with NAHÉMA?!
another voice for L'Heure Bleue. LAP Voleur de Roses ist not edgy enough, maybe layered with Poivre Picant or Passage d'Enfer or something.
Not so easy actually, she has the same request as I have (still looking for…) and the same taste AND the same scents at home.
OMG, alotofscents! Rapture from Victoria's Secret! That's really a great fragrance. It's *loud* for sure. But definitely distinctive.
I say go down to Oswald's just past Paradeplatz and sniff everything in the Parfums d'Empire line. One of them will surely blow you away – maybe Cuir Ottoman, maybe Ambre Russe, maybe something else.
And Bulgari Black, of course – you can't go wrong with rubber, leather and vanilla.
As someone of a similar constitution (Chergui most evenings, Bulgari Black most days), I really loved Paestum Rose by Eau D'Italie.Or the Aoud Montales. Paestum Rose is a bit unisex, but not masculine.
SORRY, SORRY, SORRY,
that I didn't get back to all of you earlier!!
I had a whiplash and I had to stay at home. Neither tv, nor books was allowed and I've been experiencing the worst headache of my entire life.
Anyhow, now I'm back in the office with a minor headache and at last able to read what you all suggested!
I MUST SAY I'M DELIGHTED!!
I'll be in London next week, so I'm going to check where which brands are available and try to get through an impossibly long sniff list.
As soon as I'm back I'll let you know what I ended up with!
Thanks to all of you!
Have fun!
So sorry, and glad you're mostly better! Good luck with your long list of perfumes…
Just a quickie extra, which might have been mentioned already: Tom Ford's Noir de Noir. Dark rose, truffles, oudh, saffron, vanilla, neat stuff like that. Smoldering/sexy.