Some fragrances from that period seem to have been designed with smoke in mind to be mixed at the time of use, one half of some ambient gin and tonic. It was as if the composed smell needed an audience: perfume supplied the music, smoke the crowd noises.
— From Jasmin et Cigarette, Luca Turin's latest column at NZZ Folio.
[Daniela] Andrier explained at the fragrance’s launch that she took inspiration from the soap form of Infusion d’Iris, that she wanted it to smell like a man had used his girlfriend’s soap in the shower and had the lingering smell of her scent on his skin. Intriguingly the two fragrances contain exactly the same collection of notes – the difference between them is achieved by the varied dosings of each ingredient.
— On Prada's new fragrance, Infusion d'Homme. Read more at Wallpaper magazine.
The brand’s demographics have aged along with its scents, and the buzz — fickle and capricious — has wandered off to grace other, cooler names. Lauder put everything it has into Sensuous. The risk the company is taking is serious. Sensuous is a wood, and wood scents for women are notoriously perilous since wood is associated with “masculine” (incorrectly; see Feminité du Bois by Shiseido). Lauder scents are historically either florals or aldehydics (i.e. powders like White Linen). But this is a bet on change. If the bet works, Sensuous will lower the all-important age of Lauder’s clientele; if it doesn’t, it may also turn off existing clients.
— Chandler Burr on the importance of Sensuous to Estee Lauder; read more at The New York Times. And by the way, for anyone who has had trouble finding them, here is a link to all of Burr's Scent Notes columns.
I finally got my hands on a sizey sample sprayer of Sensuous (goodness, don't try and say that with a lisp!) The first couple of times, it smelled almost exactly like Yves Rocher Vanilla and I was really disappointed. Heavier application does bring out the woods and lesson the carmelized sugar, but I think I could easliy use up 5ml or so and still not be sure how much I like it. All the same, I hope it is successful. I wish we could smell the version Burr got to try last November.
I'd like to smell that one too!
I like Burr's column on Sensuous. I still haven't warmed up to my sample of the edp — it's very unisex but also much more synthetic smelling than I like. After reading the backstory I hope it does well for them. I've been curious, Robin, did you buy a full bottle?
That bit about Infusion d'Homme makes me really eager to try it, and I've not yet sampled Infusion d'Iris even after all the raves I've read. Must add to list.
It is very synthetic — but to my mind, in a good way — “stylised” as opposed to “cheap”. I did buy the little 30 ml!
I tried the Infusion d'Homme only quickly, and unfortunately not next to the Infusion d'Iris, but they seemed VERY similar to me.
I'm still unsure about where I stand on Sensuous. I mean, it's everywhere! Still, it's kind of good, what with the wood and pepper. But it just gets a tad — cloying — after a while, to my nose. It's very buttery and sweet.
Is it everywhere, I mean, are you smelling it on the street? Where I live, I don't smell *anything* on the street, so very curious.
I haven't tried the Infusion D'Iris Pour Homme, but we did get some minis in to give as deluxe gifts.
Shoot, don't think I'm gonna rate a deluxe gift at my local Nordstrom 😉
Don't fret, because we were Fedexed dramming juice of the new Prada today. Dramming units should be set up by Monday at the latest. You'll be able to sample to your heart's content. 🙂
Cool, thanks!