This week, we're doing something a little different with The Monday Mail. Sandra is not a newcomer to perfume, in fact, she comments here as Nile Goddess so some of you may have "talked" to her in the past. But Sandra says she has not fallen in love with a fragrance in a long time, so she'd like our help.
Here is what we know about Sandra:
She lives in Prague, has just turned 40, is brunette and "very temperamental".
She loves Egypt and everything Egyptian, including Egyptian history, music and dance.
She is willing to buy online, so access is not a problem, and she has not asked for any price limits. She is looking for something unusual, and is especially hoping for recommendations from niche brands she might not be familiar with.
And her scent preferences:
She does not like fruity florals, especially very sweet fruity florals. Citrus notes are ok.
She likes deep, magnetic, sensual combinations of woods and musk, or amber and tonka bean.
She likes frangipani and honeysuckle, and sometimes light jasmine or orange blossom, but in general, florals do not "rock her boat".
Almonds and raisins are nice, tobacco is very nice. Leather is nice if not too bitter.
She likes herbal notes if they're not overdone. Guerlain's Herba Fresca is a favorite, but Hermès Un Jardin en Méditerranée is too herbal/medicinal. She does like pepper.
Some fragrances Sandra has liked in the past:
Fendi by Fendi, Calvin Klein Obsession, Contradiction & Truth, Dior Hypnotic Poison, YSL Opium, Nu & M7, L'Artisan Piment Brûlant, Mure et Musc & Ananas Fizz, Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan (needs layering with something peppery) & Sarrasins, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, L'Eau par Kenzo, Clinique Happy for Men, Lalique Encre Noire (although it stays close to the skin) and Narciso Rodriguez for Her.
What say you? My recommendations:
If Sandra hasn't already explored the Ormonde Jayne line, I'd recommend she try Tolu, Ormonde for women and Ormonde for men.
Juozas Statkevicius Eau de Parfum is also worth a shot, and Sandra can probably get it much cheaper in Prague than we can in the US. Amouage's recent Jubilation XXV also came to mind.
Hi Sandra! How about trying a few scents from Parfumerie Generale, such as Aomassi or Iris Taizo?
Habanita! Or Fumerie Turque. Very nice tobacco, for sure.
Caron Tabac Blond, Tauer L'air du Desert Marocain, Malle Noir Epices, Piguet Baghari, Comme des Garcons Palisander, and Hermes Ambre Narguile.
Hmm…how about Or des Indes by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier? I would also be tempted to say Le Maroc Pour Elle by Andy Tauer, even though it's very sweet and floral, because, imho, he really did capture something reminiscent of the Middle East/North Africa in that one….
Sorry…should be spelled Aomassai!
to that exceptional list I would add Hermessence Poivre Samarcande
Since she likes amber and leather, how about Ambre Russe and Cuir Ottoman from Parfum 'Empire? Two of my very favorites. Also, for deep, magnetic and sensual, I'd recommend Aftelier's Tango or Vera Kern's Onda, also deep and rich.
My vote for Habanita too.
Hi Karin, thanks for writing!
I did try Aomassai, interesting fragrance, but needs layering, it's not peppery enough. What I could layer it with, don't know. I have the same problem with Shaal Nur from Etro.
From Molinard? Will try!
Oh, thank you! These I have only heard of! How are Andy Tauer's fragrances really?
I only tried Nuit Noire of Mona di Orio, and did not like it that much on me, even though I really wanted to like it!
Great suggestions thank you! Am having second thoughts about leather, seeing as Kelly Caleche really stinks on me!
Hi,
I second Robin's suggestion of Amouage Jubilation 25. I love this one.
I would also like to suggest L'Artisan's Fleur de Narcisse (one of the best tobacco scents in my opinion), 10 Corso Como and Parfums de Nicolai Maharanih.
Have fun NileGoddess sampling. Let us know which ones worked and which ones didn't when you get a chance.
Dawn
Sandra if it was still available I would recommend Le Feu d'Issey to you.
So you love 'peppery' well then how about Le Feu d'Issey Light.. I happen to have it myself and I've always experienced this one as indeed 'peppery'..:) It is available here in Prague and to be sure you find most of the recommended fragrances here you should go to the brandnew Douglas on Na Prikope, for they have more perfumes than any other store overhere.
This store is a dream.
Hi Sandra,
To all of the above suggestions, I would heartily second Robin's choices, plus Poivre Samarkand, Noir Epices, and 10 Corso Como.
Two I would add are Feuilles de Tabac from Miller Harris, and perhaps Aqaba from Miriam Miriani.
Good luck!
NileG: I think you would love L'air du desert marocain. A fabulous, *dry* spicy scent, and yet so comfortable and human, too – not hard to live with. It is one of my very favourites. Andy's scents are all really worth trying, and they're very reasonably priced.
If you do like pepper, the original Feu D'Issey is certainly worth seeking out! What a weird scent it was. Piment Brulant reminds me a bit of it (I like the L'Artisan, too.) I really like Nicolai's Maharanih, also – you seem like you like many powerhouse scents, and Maharanih is very POW! without screaming, if you know what I mean. Very smooth, but high impact – rather like the OJs.
Don't let Kelly Caleche scare you off leather. It doesn't do well on me, either…and I LOVE leather. Try PdE's Cuir Ottoman or, for a lighter touch, Chanel's Cuir de Russie. Both of those have some strong leather notes that are very clean and elegant – CdR, in particular, is great for summer
I was thinking Aqaba, too, Ann.
Good luck, Sandra! I hope you find a fragrance that you fall in love with.
Hi Sandra,
I totally second Pia's suggestion of Or des Indes by MPG. Also have you tried Annick Goutal's Encens Flamboyant? It just smolders on my skin, very sensual. Good luck!
For dark and peppery, it's hard to beat Armani Prive Bois d'Encens. I second Cuir Ottoman and Ambre Narguile.
Hi Sandra,
Here are my suggestions:
-Diam Blonde, by Serge Leutens, suede note
-Dzongkha, by L' Artisan Perfumer, with notes of stone, incense, spicy chai tea & leather….
-Regina Harris-fragrance oil, with frankincense, myrrh, & incense
Ambre Narguile and Tabac Blond are sweeter, by the way.
Hi Sandra (and Robin) –
Maybe you would like some of the Lorenzo Villoresi fragrances. They can be a bit “heavy” but if you enjoy pepper notes try Piper Nigrum – although it is REALLY dry (not sweet or floral at all).
And if your into leather (I mean that in the nicest way….heehee), Angela did a great article on Cuir De Lancome. It's quite nice.
And lastly, if you like perfumed oils, BPAL has some interesting concoctions with Egypt as a theme – thought this might interest you.
Enjoy your search,
Marko
And Sandra I second Mamabears choices on frags with leather and would like to add Piquet Bandit to that list. 🙂
Sandra, I see you like Yves St Laurent Nu. I LOVED that scent! Don't have it any longer (subject of a purge some years ago), but it was so interesting and unlike anything I'd ever worn before.
I've recently discovered Parfums de Nicolai and am crazy about what I've tried so far. I'm wearing trying Maharanih right now – from a sample. Sweet and spicy, but perhaps a bit too sweet for what you're looking for. I haven't tried it yet, but have you tried PdN New York? Middle notes include pimento and pepper oils.
I recommend Sonia Rykiel's Woman Not For Men, Comme des Garcons Zagorsk, and Tom Ford's Japan Noir. Happy hunting!
Hi
Agree with Robin, the first thing that spring to my mind was Ormond Jayne Tolu. Since you like Frangipani, you might want to try theirs cos it's a very true Frangipani scent (i think). I personally don't like Ormond Woman at all, but it's their best seller and since you like pepper, you might give that a go too.
I don't know too many fragrance so I can only add one which I happen to know the scent.
Donna Karen Cashmere Mist: think it's a bit vanilla powdery, I tend to classify this scent with amber / tonka bean category. It's not my kind of scent but it's quite sensual
Love the suggestion of Ambre Soie — espeiclaly,
Sandra, if money is no object!
Also, if you're lookiing for an un-bitter leather and Daim Blond is too suede-like, you might try Heeley's Pleine Fleur, which reminds me of a buttery-smooth glove leather. Blogmistress Robin described it thusly :
Ambre Soie has notes of ginger, cinnamon, clove, cedar, patchouli and amber. The top notes are lovely: deep, rich and resinous, with a hefty kick from the spices and a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth sort of finish. . .
Good luck!! What great taste you have, and you've had some really inspired suggestions — which I must try myself, come to think.
Darn, typos and more: I should've edited!! Of course, that was not the Pleine Fleur description, which Robin hasn't reviewed. PF — it's Fine Leather in English — has violet, mimosa, birch, soft leather notes and vetiver, and you might like the slight pepperiness that (I suspect) comes from the birch.
Cheers!
“She likes deep, magnetic, sensual combinations of woods and musk, or amber and tonka bean.”
Have you already tried Bois d'Armenie (Guerlain)? I think you would like it, because it's woody, its sensual, it's deep, and, the most interesting, its very ethereal. It's like an aura that surrends you all day with a smoky, light woody and little bit almondy and ambery scent.
Hello Sandra (and Robin),
My recommendation is Idole from Lubin.
Best wishes on finding a lovely scent that suits you!
Arwen
I would recommend the oud fragrances from the Montale line. Some have rose notes, but they are not floral fragrances. I happen to like the spicy rose scent combined with oud wood, but some of the Montales de-emphasize the rose, so it is not something which is off-putting to a non-rose lover. 🙂
And on the Guerlain l'Art et la Matiere tack (pricey but scrumptious), howzabout this description from our Robin (not me, the Real one) re: Cuir Beluga (Sandra, does this sound good???!!):
Cuir Beluga, with notes of mandarin orange, immortelle flower, leather, amber, heliotrope and vanilla. It starts with sweet but mild citrus, and dries down to a creamy cloud of vanilla suede. It is extraordinarily soft and well-mannered; I have always thought of Serge Lutens Daim Blond as the pale, buttery leather interior of a new, very high end car — the sort of car that the salesman is likely to call without irony a “motorcar” — but next to Cuir Beluga, Daim Blond smells positively edgy.
Like VIP Room, or like the softest, most expensive pair of leather gloves, Cuir Beluga manages to smell of leather without evoking any thought of actual animal skins. The longer it is on skin, the more abstract and cloud-like it becomes; if you can imagine a comfort scent based on leather, this is it.
Hello Sandra, have you tried Commes des Garcons (the original)? Unique, complex — worth a snif!
How about Tom Ford's other Private Blends Tobacco Vanille (sweet tobacco and vanilla), Oud Wood (dry woods) or Amber Absolute? And I second Hermes' Poivre Samarkande and Villoresi's Piper Nigrum. I haven't smelt if myself but perhaps Pascal Morabito's Or Noir might be suitable as well? Also have a look at http://profumo.it/perfume/index_anima.asp some of the scents there are highly thought of and might be something you like. Lastly, I don't know how easy it will be for you to sample, but Aesop's Marrakech and Mystra sound suitable to you too.
I checked out Idole, and the bottle looks like Angel Alien in some respects….
From reading your description, now I'm intrigued….
How about these:
Antaeus – Chanel (Sweet leather)
L'air du Desert Marocain – Andy Tauer (one of the greatest scents ever and Andy Tauer is a pleasure to deal with on-line)
Feuilles de Tabac – Miller Harris (sweet tobacco, great compliment to Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille. Bit linear though)
Zino – Davidoff (dirty leather, very sexy indeed)
Voler de Roses – l'Artisan (Don't mind the name, this is no floral – just dirty, gothic and oddly sexy)
Black Jeans – Versace (Warm but dirty black tea-based scent)
I know that these are considered men's fragrances, but I think they would be AMAZING on a woman, especially a “temperamental brunette.” (My favourite kind!)
Aslo, a couple of them can be found cheap on-line…
NileG. and since you like YSL Nu so much, so will go and get myself a spritz now! 🙂 Never tried Nu in my whole life.
I know that you like Poeme and I like Poeme too and it has been at least 10 years since I have smelled P., so on my other hand a spritz of Poeme then..
What a great way to start the day.
p.s.: I agree with everyone who recommended Andy Tauer L'air du desert marocain.
oh yes, big 2nd for both of these gorgeous scents. i would add Annick Goutal Nuits D'Hadrien for citrus with a deep ambery base, a lovely summer scent 🙂
I second the recommendation for Aesop's scents. They are fab. Check out the entry in perfumes, the guide.
I agree about the men's scents. Don't let the fact that they are marketed to men stop you. If you like spice how about Egoiste? LOVE LOVE LOVE this perfume. Also, Amouage Gold cologne for men is delicious.
Very hard to get here, the Aesop's scents. Does anyone know how to try them in North America?
Sandra, I'm home from work and spritzed on a couple in my stash to see how they might fit it. Nobody's mentioned Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, and, goshdarn it, it's got SO much of what you might like: the raisin-almond, amber-sexy, peppery-leathery thing galore!!!
Also, if you just wanted the sleekest, most ridiculously luxurious leather-amber scent, Prada's Cuir Ambre is DYNAMITE. Just destroys you for other leathers. I'm SO not kidding!!!!!!
Good luck. You're curiously quiet. Did we overwhelm you? Underwhelm you? Neither, I hope. I love these exercises, and — Robin, are you listening? — I'd just LOVE to have more challenges. Somehow, it makes the gillions of bucks I've spent on high-end samples all worthwhile, if it helps another perfume lover find more things to love. . .
NileG. what about Shalimar?
YSL NU is good and different… I do like it.
Poeme is a fragrance from another era. Used to really like it but now it smells like a triple shoulderfilling '80s jacket.
Hi Dawn,
Fleur de Narcisse, a tobacco frag? I MUST try this, I avoided it because of the name, but now I'm curious. THank you!
To both Marianne and Erin: YES Feu D'Issey was a big hit with me and I wore it with a passion! Very unusual fragrance, but very me. Why oh why did they discontinue it? I mean, our perfumers make watered-down super light fragrances for delicate Japanese women, can Japanese perfumers not allow us our fiery passions?
Lovely lovely frag. The Light version doesn't quite cut it for me am afraid. And Marianne, you are absolutely right about Parfumerie Douglas, it's where I tried Shall Nur. Wonderful place. Shaal Nur is wonderful too, but same as anything from L'Artisan Parfumeur, it's too simple for me. I layered Shaal Nur with Poivre Brulant actually, it works quite well.
Well come to Prague Karin, you can still find Nu here, albeit in discounters and small stores, but Prague is a joy to discover and any lovely frag you can pick up on your way is a bonus!
The only fragrance reminding me of Nu was DK Black Cashmere but that one is discontinued as well.
Parfums de Nicolai, I heard so much about them, but don't know where to sample them, let alone buy.
OK will try both. Armani is not a big hit with me, I only ever liked Aqua di Gio (who doesn't?) and Sensi White Flowers. The Code and Mania series are too commercial for me. Mania seems like a cheaper but better marketed version of CK's Contradiction – which I love.
But a Private Collection is surely well worth a try, if I can find it. Thank you!
OMG guys I feel like a kid in a candy shop now! So many lovely fragrances! Am checking all of your suggestions right now!
I used to wer Antaeus every now and then so you are right on the money. I'll try again 😉
No problem with wearing men's fragrances. A friend of mine – a also a temperamental brunette – has been driving guys crazy for the last 10 years wearing Opium for Men.
Wow NileGoddess, you do have an interesting taste..
I have been spritzing mens' fragrances today…to discover that those are a totally different pot of soup? piece of cake?
It now feels like I've only discovered half of what there is out there to smell.. What were those men complaining about?!
Yes! I have tried Aoud Lime it is way too strong for me. By the time it calms down I can only think of washing it off.
Tobacco Vanilla seems to be the type doesn't it? It was the first one I reached for. Alas, close, and with cigar, but no pepper.
The only fragrance I liked from that collection was Tuscan Leather, but then I had little time for all of them so in order to do them justice I need to try them once again. Thank you!
WOW where can I find Bois D'Armenie? There is an Institut Guerlain in Prague but they don't carry it, I called them as soon as I read your post.
Good for her!
On that note, I've worn Fendi for men, and it's very nice! I don't know if they still make that one though….
Marianne, do you know Palac Korunni at the bottom of Wenceslas Square? Next to the Oilily shop thee's a small fragrance store. They carry some discontinued lines, small packages usually – 30 ml or 50 ml. That's where I bought Nu.
Nile Goddess, you can purchase samples of PdN at Lucky Scent and also Beauty Habit. I've worn Sacre Bleu and Number One for years.
I AM overwhelmed if the truth be told. That, and a very busy day kept me from answering, but now I've peppered this deliciously rich thread with answers.
So many new fragrances, it will take me a long time to find them … looking forward to it!
There is one mannish note, can't define it, but it spoils things for me if present. I can't wear Chanel Egoiste and not even Allure Blanche, because of it.
On the other hand, Lalique Encre Noire is a dream come true. But it does stay close to the skin. Too close.
As usual, this has been a fun and informational blog. I've added to my list of new frags to sniff!
It's fun trying new scents. Many thanks!
I know where it is but never went in there. Thank you!
Did some more serious homework for you:
*Jil by Jil Sander from the '90s,
*Le Baiser Du Dragon by, Cartier
*Miyako by Annayake and…
*****Pi Metallic Collector by Givenchy – this one should come really close.
I was going to suggest 10 Corso Como as well, but lately I feel like it's my answer to any question anyone asks me… about anything at all. But I agree it is an excellent choice.
Opium PH would be GREAT on a woman, so could see why your friend has been driving men crazy with it!
Here are some other men's scents that would work just fine on temperamental brunettes:
Palisander – CdG (Boozy wood or woody booze – who cares? This is magnificent. Just wished it lasted longer)
Michael for Men – Michael Kors (More booze, this time golden)
Nicole Miller for Men (Recently back in production. Boozy, but with a vegetal heart that makes it very exotic)
Heritage – Guerlain (Similar to Zino, maybe easier to find. Raunchy stuff, redolent of the cover of a Jilly Cooper novel)
Equus – Lalique (Cedar and more cedar)
Fracas for Men – Robert Piguet (This can be found cheap on-line. Smokey and rich, and far better than you might think looking at the bottle)
Witness – Jacques Bogart (Cinnamon and wood, another pich hitter)
Declaration Essence – Cartier (more chocolate and a darker scent than Declaration. How can you lose?)
Plus I'll second Encre Noire and Ambre Sultan. The former is one of the true greats, the latter a sweet, rich powerhouse.
I'll also add my vote for Amouage XXV, which is sweetened incense and magically rich.
I would love to smell any of these on a woman…
I am loving this comment thread because Sandra's tastes are very like mine, although I may tend a bit more towards “masculine” fragrances…second Robin's recommendation of Ormonde Jayne Woman (I haven't smelled Tolu). Also, try something with oud wood, which I am really loving right now…Tom Ford is good but I love wearing YSL M7, which is quite a masculine fragrance, but it's my favorite perfume for oud. Three of my other favorites are Bandit, Bulgari Black and Jicky – do you like Jicky?
And have you tried Bond No. 9 New Haarlem? It might be a little different from what you are looking for – the first blast is fairly sweet, with coffee, chocolate and maybe coconut in the top notes – but I have a feeling you would love the drydown, which is rich and spicy and ambery and wonderful.
Oh my, you will have so much fun trying all these recommendations. And then I will have so much fun trying all these recommendations. Good luck!!
Existentialist, just read the description of 10 Corso Como and that is an interesting fragrance. Had never heard of it before.
Maybe I can get a sample..
Whoa, ditto on loving this thread!!! My tastes are quite similar and I'm both learning about new frags and revisiting ones in my collection which have been unloved of late. Will check out reviews here and on MUA, basenotes for the new ones….
This started as a reply to the first comment but then I realized the thread was huge, sorry if I repeat others' suggestions but hey, great taste thinks alike 😉
I had a lot of luck with bois blond and l'ombre fauve from parfumerie generale, they're not quite as sweet as coze and aomassai although they are linear, as well as a harder-to-find one I got on the perfumed court called cuir d'iris which is a very differet take on spicy musky leather. from tpc:
A special “by invitation only” private creation fragrance, Cuir d'Iris is a deep and complex woody, leather fragrance with notes of cardamom, Iris Old Black, leather, woods, vetiver, Rizophora tannin, amber, and incense. This is a parfum extract
and I really must second jubilation xxv(note xxv not 25) and ormonde woman, they are amazing, unique fragrances you should definitely experience.
SL Miel de Bois is worth a retry even if it didn't work the first few times–it was a scrubber at first but then I retried randomly at a store and fell in love. SL Santal de mysore if you can handle cumin-ish notes, and Ambre Sultan too.
Also, based on the similarity of our preferences, maybe try
nasomatto duro (not sweet, sorta musky-woody-soft-strong but interesting to me. like jubilation xxv's base notes, kinda. I love it on me but would go crrrrrazy in a good way if I smelled it on a guy—like SL MKK that way)
tauer l'air du desert marocain ( I see I'm not alone in this! )
biehl.parfumsgewerke(Sp??) mb03 (love!!! but very similar 'feel' to l'air du etc)
Carons: En Avion, Tabac Blonde–leathers, interesting. Also Poivre (spicy but not sharp, evolves into a musky deep carnation-rose-yummy), Parfum Sacre
all three parfums d'imperfiction: eleven minutes, o alquimista, and alice in wonderland
Dior: Eau noire (similar to SL Santal de Mysore), bois d'argent
Shalimar parfum, especially vintage
Profumum Santalum
Etat libre d'orange: Charogne (the one non-carnation floral that 'does it for me') and secretions magifique, because it is original and skanky like MKK but in a totally new way.
le labo santal 26
gourmand-ish but to me not too much:
Frapin 1270
l'artisan tea for two
diptyque: eau lente, and the musc room spray
whew Thats all for now! have great fun sniffing!
meant to add that the Carons, esp Poivre and Coup du Fouet edt, are *peppery* and that Parfum sacre has a great balance to me of more subtle but still very present and persistent pepper, and that I find the caron-heart somewhat musky-leathery-deepfloral not vanillic or flowery. They're all worth trying and re-trying esp in parfum extrait (but edp works too)
Wow that is a humongous reply thank you so much!
So glad there are so many similar tastes in this forum – I feel like an OL (old lady) sometimes asking for such fragrances in Sephora.
One colleague just told me she has a mega-migraine from my fragrance (Hypnotic Poison – it's cold today in Prague). Funny migraine since she wears Coco Mademoiselle and that gives me a migraine
Your admiration of Encre Noir made me think you should also try Le Labo Patchouli 24… both have a similarity which I can't directly pinpoint…
For Aesop stockists, got to http://www.aesop.com.au and go to the stockists heading. There are a few stockists in America. Alternatively, just try emailing them and see if you can snag a sample.
Now am trying to order Bois D'Armenie. I only noticed it was developed by Annick Menardo who is also behind Hypnotic Poison. Problem is I can't sample it, I must buy it unsniffed and it's expensive for such an experiment. Should I?
Sandra – I think you would find lots to explore in Nocturne Alchemy, a range of perfumes inspired by Ancient Egypt. The creator brings out new scents regularly. http://www.nocturnealchemy.com
would you be willing to order a sample or decant from a seller like fishbone or the perfumed court? or go on basenotes/mua and buy/swap? Bois d'armenie is a bit of an investment both $$ and size