Balkis was launched by Parfums de Nicolaï in 2003, and the notes include raspberry, Turkish rose, black pepper, coffee extract, iris, benzoin and vanilla.
Balkis starts out as a boudoir, pin-up girl sort of rose, along the lines of Frederic Malle's Lipstick Rose. The raspberry is jammy-sweet (although there is nothing candied or child-like about it) and the iris lends a fair dusting of powder, and the whole thing is very creamy and uber-feminine. It would be out of the question (for me, that is) were it not for the coffee and pepper, which temper the sweetness (marginally, mind you) and lend some bite to what would otherwise probably be too prissy-girly for my taste.
The dry down is more about iris and vanilla than it is about rose, and while there are still traces of the raspberry jam, most of the coffee and pepper dissipate after the first hour. Still, it is a gorgeous scent if I'm in exactly the right mood. On the wrong day, as with many other uber-feminine roses (L'Artisan's Drôle de Rose, for instance) the early stages don't work at all and I feel like an imposter; it seems to require lipstick and high heels, and perhaps even an updo. Much later though, some of the vanillic creaminess also fades, the warmth of the benzoin blends nicely with a pale woody musk, and a last lingering whiff of the coffee reappears. Now it is considerably less ladylike, and a much better fit with my wardrobe.
A good friend sent me a bottle of Balkis Light some time ago. The Nicolaï boutiques in Paris apparently carry a number of the fragrances in Light versions, essentially Eaux de Toilette (the original Balkis is an Eau de Parfum). From time to time they pop up on Ebay, but they are not the bargain there that they are said to be in Paris. Balkis Light, at any rate, is an interesting compromise; the pepper and coffee make a bigger impression when they don't have to compete with the heavy raspberry, and it avoids the rich creaminess which I find objectionable in the middles stages of the Eau de Parfum. The drawback (and there is always a drawback, right?) is the lasting power, which is marginal at best on skin, although I find it does very well sprayed on clothing.
Of the two, I prefer the Light, but if you already love Balkis Eau de Parfum, you may find the Light too wispy for your taste. Do comment if you've tried any of the other Nicolaï Light fragrances, or if you've seen them for sale anywhere outside of Paris.
For buying information, see the listing for Parfums de Nicolaï under Perfume Houses.
Believe it or not, I used to wear Balkis. On me it didn't smell overly feminine.
Barry
Lighter versions, huh?….Very interesting.
I don't remember Balkis making such an impression on me, R. But when you mentioned Lipstick Rose, my little ears perked up. I may need to test this again.
Hugs!
I also prefer Light, since it somehow seems to develop better on my skin. The regular version becomes far too sweet. A lovely fragrance nevertheless.
Barry, I'll believe anything, after all, I wear many men's scents and don't find them at all masculine on me. If it smells good, wear it…
They don't smell the same, R, they just share a kind of feeling…although Balkis is perhaps a bit less stylised, if that makes any sense.
It develops better on me too…there isn't the long wait for the warmth of the dry down. Would love a New York Light , or Sacre Bleu Light.
Balkis is one of those rare fragrances I seem to fall in and out of love w/. Would have to go sniff it to know if it's currently in favor or not. But, in general, I'm not inclined to like “light” versions of scents. Was somewhat dismayed to see there was a light version of Balkis – until I got to the part where you said the pepper and coffee stand out in the Light version. That's my type of light. I should have had faith in PdN to always do the right thing.
Ooh, pepper and coffee are more prominent in Light? I must try it!
Well, it isn't dumbed down, as “light” versions sometimes are, but it is much, much more sheer. You might like it during those times when you are out of love w/ the regular, maybe?
Yes, bearing in mind that the whole thing is so much more sheer….in other words, the pepper & coffee stand out better because it is not so creamy & sweet. But if you adore Balkis EdP, it might be too sheer for you.
I really think Patricia should do something about the design of the bottles. The scents are often great but the packaging really needs to be improved. It's too cheap, not enough elaborated for today's niche criterions. I know there is the french sentence that says 'Qu'importe le flacon, pourvu qu'on ait l'ivresse' but all the same, it doesn't reflect the fact that she's a Guerlain family member.
The “Light” bottle is even worse, actually — and not just the bottle, but the label too. Quite ugly. If you go to beautyhabit, they have some 30 ml EdPs in a square bottle that I hadn't seen, although maybe they've been out for ages and I just missed them.
You're so right about the bottles and especially the labels.
But I originally wanted to ask something completely different: Could it be that Balkis has been discontinued? I can't find it at PdN's website anymore. And I happen to love this fragrance…
Oh dear, I don't see it there either. Not a good sign. But it might be worth emailing them to ask, just in case they're just out of it at the moment?
You're right. I'll ask them.
I just got a sample of this – I think Joe may have recommended it when we were talking about fruity florals – and boy do I smell delicious!!! I love the jam and the spice and the peppery rose element. Yummy stuff. It’s not the vivacious pink bubbly-ness I am kind of looking for for summer but definitely something I will be considering.
Isn’t it pretty? Hope you’ll find your vivacious pink bubbly-ness though!