Rarely does a single-note theme work as perfectly as Mazzolari’s Patchouly. White honey is paired with Indonesian patchouli and warm far Eastern spices to create a fragrance that maintains the earthy green qualities I’ve come to love about patchouli, without the harshness that often keeps me from truly loving patchouli scents.
Though I’m unable to find an olfactory pyramid, reliable sources and my own sniffer reveal the strong presence of amber in the base with perhaps a touch of vetiver. By way of comparison to other patchouli fragrances, Mazzolari Patchouly is full-bodied, slightly sweet, resinous (think benzoin and amber) and slightly spicy. Whereas Lorenzo Villoresi’s Patchouli is straightforward, ultra-herbal, and well, just plain ole’ raw, and Montale’s Patchouli Leaves is a seamless blend of patchouli, green leafy notes and a touch of aquatic algae, Mazzolari offers us the patchouli version of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s Ambre Precieux. Imagine that masterpiece anchored with a note of green patchouli — at times sparkling with an almost minty edge — and you’ll get the idea.
This is not going to win over any patchouli-haters, but the sweeter basenotes might persuade a few folks to come around. The longevity here is excellent, as is the sillage. It’s been interesting to see how niche houses have been pairing patchouli (L’Artisan’s Voleur de Roses, Serge Lutens’ Borneo 1834, etc.) with other notes. Though Mazzolari Patchouly is not entirely unique, as an amber lover, it’s certainly one of the best interpretations I’ve come across.
For buying information, see the listing for Mazzolari under Perfume Houses.