Last night I sat down to finish off a review of one of my favorite fragrances by Jo Malone, Black Vetyver Café. Here is part of what I wrote:
Black Vetyver Café starts with dark coffee beans, freshly ground and almost-but-not-quite bitter, with a woody-nutty undertone. There is a faint trail of dry, smoke-free incense, and hints of pepper and light spices. Over the next 15 minutes, the coffee fades and the vetiver and woods intensify...
I love those first 15 minutes of Black Vetyver Café, but eventually gave up on finishing the review. There isn't much more to say. The fragrance doesn't entirely disappear after 15 minutes, but its glory is pretty much over by 30, and what remains after an hour is too bland to talk about at any length.
I can be very forgiving about lasting power. My beloved Thé Pour Un Été needs frequent refreshing, as do many of the other summer fragrances from L'Artisan. Diptyque Tam Dao doesn't last quite as long as it should. Eau de Guerlain and Chanel Cristalle, well, lets just say that you might as well just tuck them in your bag — it won't be long before you'll need a touch up.
But I own all of those fragrances, and have yet to buy a bottle of Black Vetyver Café. A fragrance ought to remain interesting for at least a half an hour, and I suspect that many people would say that a half an hour isn't nearly enough. Your opinion?
I know what you mean!!!!
I brought the sample of VIP from luckyscent and thought this would be a really good one with the leather note and other scents of a man would wear, well hell, once I put the whole sample on it faded away with in minuntes. I WAS UPSET. For that price I WANTED MORE than a quicky and besides that, many of these high end scent last for just minutes or a small portion more. WHAT UP WITH THAT!!!
I don't mind in the least re-applying every hour or so – as long as the journey from 0 – 60 is pretty good all the way. If you have to spend 20 mins screwing your eyes up at the head-notes, it's hardly worth it unless there are several hours of dreamy dry-down. Sometimes it's the head-notes that are best, so I keep reapplying to experience them anew, especially when the dry-down is less thrilling than the start (yes, I'm talking to you, Amoureuse). I've never sniffed BVC, although I'd love to – sounds like one of the second camp?
I was thinking recently about it, when I was complaining about the lasting power of TDC Osmanthus. I own some of Iunx waters, which last for 15min, just like PG, yet I always happy to repurchase them, yet what makes them different is the fact that 15min of Latin Water paint visions of ripe tangerines and glossy green leaves, where as Osmanthus is wonderful, but it does not take me far enough before it begins to fade. So, I would say that it is not the temporal duration so much that matters for me, but the pleasure I derive from those 15 or 30 min.
I like a fragrance to last and have fair sillage. I don't have matching purse atomizers for all my scents, that would be crazy. So I get really disapointed when the scent fades and I don't have a touch up with me. That's why my faves are long lasting, and I don't own a single Jo Malone.
T, very surprised…didn't find VIP Room that short lived at all…the top notes of VIP Room were still calming in the time that it takes Black Vetyver Cafe to disappear on me entirely.
Quite true though that in general, the niche scents tend not to be as long lasting as the more mainstream department store fragrances.
N, now do you mean that you just don't care for the dry down of Amoureuse, or that it actually fades quickly on you? I find it so strong that I prefer to dab it on rather than spray. Trust me, it can beat up poor BVC with one hand tied behind its back, LOL!
Interesting point, V. Still not sure I'd shell out for any of the IUNX scents other than L'Ether. Latin Water is beautiful but I want my half hour, LOL!
Ah, now sillage is far less important to me, although I suppose for many people it is the whole point of wearing fragrance. I like to keep within my own air space for the most part. If something is strong, chances are I won't wear more than a drop of it anyway.
R, I completely agree and share your frustration. Most Malones are like that, except for Pomegranate Noir, which lasts a very good time on my skin. Osmanthe Yunnan is faint from the start and disappears in no time. IUNXes are magical disappearing scents, poof and they are gone. Nelly Rodi Scent Factory fragrances were very weak AND disappeard within literally minutes (in most cases- thankfully!)
Mostly lasting power is not an issue for me; I very rarely get less than 3 good hrs from a scent. Part of it is clearly my chemistry, and part of it (to be honest) is that I probably wear 3 or 4 (or 5) frags a day if I can, so I consider the end of one to be the opportunity for the beginning of another… would bother me more if I were buying full bottles, but mostly I'm running through the decants like Pez, so who's counting? Re your comment that “in general, the niche scents tend not to be as long lasting…” I dunno, R, after 4 or 5 hours I'm on my knees BEGGING Serge to vamoose! Get out! Scram! Go away, already! It took me, like, 4 days of bathing and prayer to get rid of Feminite du Bois… I agree that only half an hour for something other than Apres l'Ondee would probably be a fatal flaw, though.
What thrills me about Amoureuse is the vibrant green shock you get at the start – and it lasts well over an hour. After about two hours, the fresh green has given way to much heavier honey…and honey and I are an uneasy combination. But at that stage it's still pretty powerful – I mean, you'd know I was wearing Amoureuse if you were sitting on the other side of a large room – so I can never quite justify reapplying. I've eaked out a large sample, never quite sure whether to buy the FB or not. You know that kind of indecision?
Marchlion, I agree! The SLs must be the most tenacious frags on the niche market (apart from the OJs, which can last several showers on me). I guess Serge must have pinched some kind of stick-to-it potion from Estee Lauder; some of them seem to be designed to fill whole shopping malls and last for weeks.
I think in general I also want at least an hour from a scent before I have to reapply. And even then, that hour has to have a nice full life, or something nice happening while it lasts. It depends on what it is though, since with that sort of necessarily frequent reapplication, I personally need it to not cost an arm and a leg. Except for Cumming – which I make total exceptions for, partly because it's one of my summer scents of choice, which doesn't help out with staying power either.
Ah, yes, true!, but the OJs, somehow they do not overstay their welcome! They fascinate me, they go away and then pop up again, even days later… I still can't decide if Ta'if is lovely or appalling, but at least it's not dull. Would say that about all the OJs I have tried. Estee — cripes! What's in that stuff, plutonium?!
I want at least an hour, but I also agree with Victoriaf's brilliant comment on the quality of the duration itself. Better a lovely tiny and complete haiku than a short story lost midway through.
Being an absolute beginner (without the youth to go with it, unfortunately) I'm glad to read Marchlion's comment about wearing several fragrances a day. I also have wanted to do this, especially since I'm on a sample binge.
I find a reapplication necessary for most of the fragrances I have tried so far, except FM Carnal Flower which seemed to last all day (and I was glad to have it).
I don't catch everything on the first (or maybe any) round anyway, so multiple applications are needed to make up for my inexperienced nose. Sometimes I can't smell a fragrance anymore, but my husband can if I ask him. That makes me a little nervous about trusting my own senses.
Yes, I know it well, LOL! Was just interested in your comment because one of the reasons I don't wear it more often is that it is so darn strong….we need an Amoureuse Light for people like me. Will have to revisit my decant, I didn't remember it as so strongly honeyed but it has been a long time.
Ah, now Osmanthe Yunnan is very light, and fits perfectly into my “forgiving” statement above. But I don't find it dull in the least, even after an hour.
The other JM that lasts on me is Vintage Gardenia, but I swear my bottle has grown sweeter & sweeter 🙂
Yes, most of the SLs last, although not all. The OJs…some last, some don't. I can still smell Ta'if, and even the very light Isfarkand, after 12 hours, but many people say they can't. Frangipani doesn't make it quite so long (of course, since it is my favorite).
Cumming is so cool that I forgive it too, K.
L, so many of us are happy with an hour. That surprises me. Would guess the perfume buying public at large wants all day, or more.
It is quite true that when I am doing lots of testing, a fragrance that is hard to remove is as annoying as one that doesn't last. If it won't come off with deodorant followed by liquid Tide, I'm not happy.
I think this is a chronic Jo Malone problem – the scents are interesting but the interest just doesn't last. Promogrante Noir does better, I admit, so maybe they're headed in the right direction. I'm sorry but I just can't get into the whole marketing talk about layering. If I can get maximum sillage and lasting power from other scents I like as much that cost $30 (or heck, even $90) I'm not going to spring for perfume and shampoo and lotion and cream and deodarant and bath oil for $200, be it Jo Malone or Annick Goutal or FM.
I am happy if I can get a few hours of wear out of a fragrance. I am not a heavy spritzer, so this may cause my short term problems, but I also like to be able to wear 2 or three different things in one day (sometimes).
I think only getting 30 minutes from something would annoy me, though, R. That doesn't seem like enough time.
I love BVC with a passion, but it fades that fast on me, too. Most things last well on me, but this one totally disappears. However, I love it so much that when my decant is gone I'll buy a bottle. That hour or so is good enough that I want to repeat it.
My MUA review of BVC is a love letter and a lament. If anything, my impression is even worse than yours – I think the peak is over in 5 minutes. I like the drydown (which is over in an hour, tops), but it's not as rich as the heart. I have already purchased two bottles, which, when you think about how many perfumes I own, is ridiculous. Ms. Malone, may I introduce you to the concept of the EDP?
I won't layer either. If regular old Cetaphil cream doesn't make something last, I give up! I wear too many scents to buy the matching products for all of them.
I'm big on a fragrance lasting…it's one of my deciding factors when I consider if I'd like to buy the full size. I think it's why I love Serge Lutens – they do last and last. Yesterday I tried Arabie. At first, all I smelled was old wet wool – gross – but after that first spray, it turns into something exotic and gorgeous. The next morning, it was even more amazing. So, for me, lasting power is major. Though I admit I've bought full sizes of stuff I love that don't have great lasting power, too…it's because I can't resist if I really love something.
I like to wear several things over the course of the day too…a few hours, then poof! — that is actually perfect for me, LOL!
If you're getting a good hour, you're getting more than me. An hour, and I'd buy it too, because I really love the first 15 minutes!
As soon as they are properly acquainted, we must walk EdP over to meet a few more friends of mine…
Lasting power is fairly important to me. My chemistry seems to eat up most perfumes within a couple of hours or so. I'm happy if I can get at least that amount.
One of my favorite scents is Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien. Unfortunately it vanishes on me within minutes, which breaks my heart, because I would buy a full bottle otherwise.
My best success recently has been with Chanel fragrances. I avoided them for years because most do not smell nice to me. I've recently discovered Allure & No. 19 which both smell lovely on me and linger slightly for several hours.
Of course I often fall prey to the Murphy's Law of fragrance: If I try something that I despise, it usually lasts on my skin forever!
BVC sounds so amazing, though. I would love to try it – where can you get samples of Jo Malone online? I need to get to Barney's and go scent exploring, but I haven't been able to fine time. I love Luckyscent! I went nuts with the samples. I'm leaving for Hawaii for a job tomorrow…brought Un Lys and Arabie with me.
Since color and scent drive my world, I am unhappy with a frag that is gone in an hour. My frags are for me, and if they're gone, it's time to re-apply or layer or add another. Sillage is important–it heightens the enjoyment for me, and allows me a moment to escape to a beautiful place, despite what is happening around me. It also magnifies the glorious impact of Proustian recall.
What does OJ stand for? I feel like I'm missing something, a perfume line I must try! I'm pretty new at this.
Gina, it stands for “Ormonde Jayne”.
So true…if you hate it, it will last forever — even through a shower!
Chanel scents do tend to have wonderful lasting power, all except Cristalle EdT, which I adore. But Bois des Iles lasts forever on me.
Gina, I am not sure where you can get samples online. Is there a Neiman Marcus near you? They usually have it. Some of the Nordstroms have the line, but not all (my local Nordstrom does not). And I *think* most Saks.
Have a fabulous time in Hawaii, I am quite jealous!
C, Curious if you care about the actual color of the juice or the bottle, or if color is a separate matter from the perfume? Mostly wondering because I think it is a shame that more perfumes aren't a color other than pale gold.
Gina, and good luck extracting some of those Malone samples from the tight-fisted ladies at Saks! (For more info, see Robin's earlier post about how it's easier to be a niche snob, b/c mainstream samples are so hard to get sometimes…) PS Since you said in an earlier post you are new at this, eBay is a great place to buy samples and decants, I do so often and have never been burned. But I should warn you that buying samples is highly addictive! Be sure to pick up some Ormonde Jayne… 🙂
R-
For me, color is seperate, but a sensory juggernaut. The color of the juice is not important to me, but, as in the case of Herve Leger, whose frag is purple, it definitely drew me to it. It was my first real “adult ” love of a scent. However, my passion didn't take off until I began reading NST and BdJ. Now, I'm searching for more room for decants and bottles…
About the color of a fragrance, well, darker colored fragrances don't sell as readily as a lighter or clear colored fragrance would…though “Youthful dew” broke that mold. I personally don't give a stiff about the initial color of the juice. I am sad to see a perfume change colors within a matter of months..such as Keiko Mecheri “Loukoum”. It's a shame that Black Vetyver Cafe doesn't last that long…I found the same problem in Dior Homme..how does it work on clothes, BVC that is?
Ha, the decants especially pile up before you know it! I started with a nice wooden box of them, now I have a cabinet full.
You should see the shocking orange color of my originally clear Frederic Malle En Passant! It is rather alarming.
Have not sprayed BVC on my clothes, but did try in my hair and no, it didn't last there either.
Cristalle is beautiful! I love the citrus top notes. It's an “almost” wearable Chanel for me. Unfortunately it turns musty on my skin. With the right chemistry though, I bet its wonderful.
Not sure it lasts long enough to turn musty on me…but as I said, I can be very forgiving for the right scent 😉
Thank you, V. Dentata! I was away for a few days, but was so happy to get the answer to my question. Now I'll have to research OJ a little.
I do have a Neiman Marcus pretty close – Beverly Hills. While I'm there, I'll stop into Barney's and go scent crazy with everything they have there. I did have a nice time in Hawaii, though it was a lot of work. Plumerias everywhere, such a great smelling flower. Thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate it.
Marchlion, I've been going nuts on ebay! I've got almost all of the Serge Lutens line. It's highly addictive. I've bought a lot of decants from ebay too, and have never been burned, it's such a great thing. I will look for Ormonde Jayne, I'm excited. I'm laughing at your comment about the tight-fisted ladies at Saks.
Plumerias everywhere…sounds like a dream!
Has anyone smelt the new jo Malone fragrance BlueAgave and Cacao? What's the lasting power of that one?
I didn't like it, so I didn't pay much attention, but I know it wasn't a very ephemeral thing like the Black Vetyver Cafe.