Yes, I caved: I bought the new Hermès fragrance, Osmanthe Yunnan (see yesterday). I am still feeling guilty over the price, to say nothing of the fact that I bought it unsniffed. Last night, I consoled myself with the reminder that I have been very conservative in my purchasing this year, and the Osmanthe Yunnan brought my total for 2005 to a mere 5 bottles of perfume. This morning I went to looking for a fragrance to wear, settled on Ormonde Jayne Ta’if, and noticed next to it the Isfahan that I bought last spring. Oops, that wasn’t included in my total, so make that 6. Curiosity got the better of me and I did a quick inventory. The extent of my denial was revealed fairly rapidly; oops again, make that 9 bottles. It could be worse, right? Please, say yes…
Fragrance shopping
New at aedes: a limited edition Aedes de Venustas candle created by L'Artisan, with incense, leather, balsam, musk, strawflowers, and precious woods.
New at lusciouscargo: Diptyque Do Son and the Feu de Bois candle; Bond no. 9 Chinatown Crystalized, Bon Bon box, and candles in Chinatown & So New York
New fragrances from Ralph Lauren, Anthony Logistics
Ralph Hot by Ralph Lauren will launch in March. The juice, by perfumer Pierre Negrin, is the line’s first gourmand:
In the top notes, the cinnamon is combined with almond blossoms and mandarin…
Perfume books: Against Nature by Joris-Karl Huysmans
The French fin de siècle must have been an incredibly exciting era. Just think of the great technological progress of the 1880s: the decade that brought us synthetic perfumery, with fragrances like Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882) and Guerlain’s Jicky (1889). But they were also times of increasing pessimism: in French literature, a group of self-proclaimed Decadents turned their backs on the current known as Naturalism. With their harsh depictions of a civilization in decline, they reacted against the contemporary bourgeois ideal of eternal progress. Joris-Karl Huysmans, the most prominent member of the Decadent movement, uncovers the maladies of the late nineteenth century in his novel Against Nature (1884): it captures the essence of a vibrant, troubled, and altogether confusing period in history.
Against Nature is often described as an anti-novel with an anti-hero. The main character, Des Esseintes, is a neurotic, ailing, eccentric, bored, thirty-year-old aristocrat with a keen sense for aesthetics. After a young adult life marked by exuberance on all fronts, he feels the urge to move away from the ‘vulgarities’ of the Parisian upperclass. He finds his retreat in a quiet countryside mansion, where he spends much of his time and money on interior decoration; not the least interested in the idyllic green grass and blue skies of Fontenay, he creates a dark, gloomy ambiance to set his mind at ease…
My next fragrance purchase….
Osmanthe Yunnan has finally arrived at Hermès in the United States. Do I dare order it unsniffed? I have sworn never to buy unsniffed again, but how bad can a fragrance by Jean Claude Ellena be? Taking votes. Polls now closed.
By the way, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower has arrived at Barneys in New York. But they didn't get many bottles, and I wouldn't be surprised if it is already sold out. An unnamed source tells me it is fabulous.