Today I am testing the third fragrance release from Parisian designers Miller et Bertaux, this one titled Green, green, green and green. I have not been able to find an official list of notes, but according to a post on a fragrance forum, the notes are laurel, bay leaves, verbena, sap, coriander (possibly the leaves, i.e., cilantro), jasmine, cedar, vetiver, and musk. That may or may not be an accurate list, but it smells about right.
Miller et Bertaux Green starts somewhat similar to Nanadebary Green: a slightly sharp verbena with green notes, and possibly some bergamot as well. As it calms, it takes off in another direction — where Nanadebary gets milder and fresher as it develops, the Miller et Bertaux takes on a deeper, very nearly bitter green.
It smells like grass, sap, fresh herbs and leaves, with a twist of lemon. For a short time, I can make out some faint, indistinct floral notes, but as it continues to dry down, those are replaced by cedary woods, and it starts to smell more like shrubbery. It is fresh in the sense that green things smell fresh, but it does not have a "fresh" note.
It is unisex, and is an Eau de Parfum, but in strength and lasting power it feels very much like an Eau de Toilette, and a light one at that. I had trouble getting any impression of it from my sample vial, so I transfered the juice to a small atomizer. Several good sprays lasted at least 4 hours, but after the first hour it was subtle at best.
I like Green very much, and would buy it in a second if it were just a bit stronger and longer lasting. For that matter, I would buy a smaller bottle without hesitation, but the Miller et Bertaux scents come in 100 ml only. I will have to give it more thought and see how my summer shopping list shapes up over the next few weeks.
For buying information, see the listing for Miller et Bertaux under Perfume Houses.
Update: I ended up buying a bottle and it turned out to be one of my summer staples.
Well, NST, you've certainly confused me! As I read, I thought 'no,' then 'yes, then 'no,' and then… . And THEN you said you LIKED it. I have M & B #2 and I find it very longlasting, so I was surprised to hear that this one is so light. I'll be interested to try this some day.
Greenish Gert
Hmmm, R, sounds like an awful lot of money for the experience of not smelling of much at all! As if all the research has gone into the top notes, with the expectation that you'll reapply when they die away. Which sounds like…hey, most modern 'designer' fragrances! I'd kind of expect more from a niche French house. Sigh. N
GG, I love green notes. The first hour of #3 is perfect. I am thinking just now that this reminds me slightly of the original Vent Vert, but a bit less bitter and without the dark, ambery undertones. But it is WAY lighter than MB #2.
I wish everyone would release things in 30 ml bottles. I'll buy 30 ml of anything, LOL !
N, I have mixed feelings about lasting power. I don't want a fragrance to last 8 hours, because then I can only wear 1 perfume a day. But this has little “presence” after the first hour. I don't mind things that stay close to the skin, but I have to just about bury my nose in my arm to smell it. But I do love that first hour, so I'm trying to think of a way to justify a purchase. Maybe I need to split a bottle? Sighing with you. Sigh.
I completely understand what you mean. I encounter so many fragrances that just lack lasting power, and even though I like them, if I want something light and fresh, I go for IUNX`waters which are nice, light and would not break the bank for me.
It is an interesting issue though, and I have encountered it during the course of my forays into perfume creation. Natural essences are volatile, although it of course depends–citrus lasts for 10-15 minutes, while Sandalwood de Mysore for 6 month, if you apply a drop on a paper strip. Synthetics tend to have a much longer lasting power, even when it comes to light scents. While I think that synthetic ingredients are key in perfumery and can be amazingly complex and unusual (Cashmeran for instance), there is a proliferation of cheaply made substances that find their way into perfumes. Then I think I prefer a fragrance that lasts for 3 h to the one that lasts for the whole day but smells of chemistry lab and detergent factory combined.
Anyway, this was a segue into something else. Let me get off my soap box and thank you for a lovely review. I will add this to my “to sample” list.
Oh, about Vetiver Tonka–is it smokey on you? For some reason, on me it turned into a pack of Marlboro Lights, however nobody mentions this in reviews. Perhaps, my sample was tainted?
Hello R and all! I have to get my act together and go to the boutique one of these days. As I am a rather un-Marais person (even though I do enjoy going there from time to time) I very rarely get to that part of Paris. Well next time I go that way – I will certainly stop and test this. I must admit that when I tried this with my loving friend Greenish Gert above – while I liked #1 and #2, they did not get me terribly excited.
hugs from a scorching Paris,
N
I have to agree with N, #1 and #2 were not bottle worthy for me. I think that I preferred #1, as it reminded me of SL Bois et Fruits. Dear N, do you mind sending some of the heat from Paris to PA, as it is ridiculously cold here (I am sure R would agree!) xoxo
Darling V – here you go take 10 degrees off today- it is 30 degrees C today! I love a max of 25!
Mwah
V, I am fascinated…sandalwood lasts on a paper strip for 6 months? Amazing.
I am trying to remember if Vetiver Tonka smells smoky. I know I get a touch of smoke from the Ambre Narguile, but I can't remember on the VT. Sadly, I test new perfumes more often than I wear my favorites. I will have to do some reviews of the Hermessences.
Then again, I don't mind a touch of smoke in a fragrance!
N, agree with Victoria: send us some scorching! It is ridiculously cold here this month. It is hard to imagine that most pools open this weekend.
Now, for the ignorant such as I, what goes on in Marais that makes you an un-Marais person? Is it very trendy, or very seedy, or what?
Yes, please!
I would love to hear your opinions on Hermessences. I tried only three: Rose Ikebana, Ambre Narguille, and Vetiver Tonka. I liked the first two ok, however I am not sure if they warranted a purchase for me.
As for true sandalwood de Mysore, it is a very resilent scent. I imagine that something like agarwood must be even more so. Another interesting fact about sandalwood oil–unlike most, it actually improves as it ages, like wine. Even the best sandalwoods require at least 2 years to develop their true scent. Apparently, sandalwood oils that are aged 30 years and up are amazing.
Robin dear – you can take upto 10 degrees from here today – you are welcome to the heat.
LOL! I love your direct questions – about being Un-marais – guess it is a mix of trend and seediness. Used to love the Marais in my 20s especially Place des Vosges which I still love and enjoy whenever I do get there. I now actually prefer the Bastille area (which is much more trendy and also artistic) but such fun eating places too.
xoxo
This one started off smelling like a fizzy ginger-black tea “soda” on me…zingy and fresh. But within 15 minutes the fizz was gone and what was left was flat ginger ale (and very sweet). I had given up hope.
THEN: I got a blast of “forest/fern”…interesting…then a
whoosh of spicy turpentine…some freshly
mown grass…lemons. I was happy again! I liked M&B #2 for this reason — it percolated
on my skin…and different notes would appear throughout the day…a “scent spotlight” if you will.
During certain “spells” this ggg&g scent reminded me of Silver Mountain Water and Comme des Garcons'
Green Series Tea — both scents I wear and
enjoy. This lasted on me about 10 hours (and I have skin that is so dry I'm on the verge of mummy-dom)! (I DO put on about 13 sprays/spritzes.)
PBI – aged sandalwood oil is pure heaven. Whenever I am in India I get a little. It is very comforting as I grew up with lots of sandalwood.
xoxo
10 hours!!! I am amazed. I could not do more than my 3 little sprays, as I went through my entire sample this week just to write this post, which is rare for me. Perhaps I need to find a tester bottle and give myself a good dousing. I am willing to work on this scent, it is so lovely and really green scents are so rare. Next trip to Takashimaya…
HA! Do give yourself a dousing and I think you'll be surprised at the longevity of this scent. This often happens to me: people saying how a scent disappears in minutes –and on me it's going strong for hours. Since I'm always too hot/too warm…perhaps my body acts as a human incense burner — keeping the scent “alive!” I REALLY like this ggg&g the more I wear it…yesterday I got nary a whiff of floral/jasmine…but today it's there….
Sounds like what Georgetown in Washington, DC used to be like. Now they've done away with the seedy part and it is actually less interesting — sort of like going to the mall.
Ok, I'm not giving up. I want my green, LOL!
Again, I have to chime in with my lone voice of support for #1! This soft, floral woods is absolutely lovely. But I won't buy a bottle either. The scent is too fleeting even though I think I spray generously from my decant. It wears lighter than edt.
#3 sounds too green and herbal for my tastes. I enjoy bitter greens in my salad, but not in my fragrance!
Iris, I didn't know #1 was light also. I thouht #2 was reasonably long lasting, but I didn't love it as much as #3 so perhaps I didn't pay as much attention.
Sounds delightful, R! And I love all those notes, even with the yellow lemon.
Longivity and strength are two factors that can sway me into a scent being truly FBW or just worth a decant. I can be heavy handed, I know. I remember when the Le Dragon fragrance came out. I loved it so much, but within literally minutes, it had disappeared. A fleeting, beautiful scent may not be worth the price, at least not for me.
Thanks for your wonderful review.
B, We are opposites — I tend to be very light handed. Not in this case! But you are right, this might just be decant-worthy. Or split-a-bottle worthy.
Having read this comment about aged sandalwood a while back, I was very excited to see an unopened old amber four-ounce druggist bottle of “English” sandalwood oil circa 1906 come up for auction after being stored in a temperate San Francisco attic for 100 years.
I was surrounded by pharmacy memorabilia collectors and not a single scent enthusiast, so I was the only one to recognize it for what it was: aged mysore sandalwood from british-occupied India. I had only dreamed of bottles lying around until I was fortunate enough to acquire it for the cost of pancake syrup.
As of yet the bottle remains unopened and I will have to gather a group of sandlewood lovers who would like small fractions for auction, or just spontaneously open it on a balmy summer evening with just the right breeze…
What a great story! I hope the contents turn out to be heavenly, and I'm sure they will.
There is a slightly bitter and minty note in this that reminds me of some old fashioned pennyroyal oil that I have. The cool green earthy quality is also similar to Jo Malone's Wild Fig and Cassis, it smells to me like a particular aroma chemical called stemone, which may be one of the ingredients in both these perfumes. Anyway, it's an attractive fragrance.
Hmmm, will have to try the JM again. I know I didn't like it, but can't remember why. And have never smelled pennyroyal. But agree the M&B is attractive, and I think their best so far.