I love Pilar & Lucy's glam bottles and cutesy perfume names, but I have to admit to feeling some trepidation about their latest, Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon. The only P & L scent I had tried so far, Exact Friction of the Stars, is billed as a vanilla-coconut gourmand, but on my skin the scent had a rather unpleasant undertone that resembled nothing so much as Tupperware melting on the stove. It's all about chemistry, what can you do?
Tiptoeing worked much better for me. It is mostly tuberose and amber, and while the top notes are very sweet and heady, it dries down to a soft, nicely blended floral. The amber is very subdued, and it has just the teensiest little mentholated edge — nothing like Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle, but it is there. I have never smelled real tuberose, but I am told that this touch of menthol is true to the flower. Please comment if you know!
I like Tiptoeing, but it didn't wow me. After the top notes dissipate, the tuberose is almost too soft and flat for my taste. Several hours later, the tuberose is very subtle, ditto the amber, and there is a very mild base of soft wood, probably sandalwood, and maybe some musk as well.
It is certainly worth a try for tuberose lovers, and for that matter, it might be perfect for someone who finds most tuberose fragrances too much to take. For buying information, see the listing for Pilar & Lucy under Perfume Houses.