Update: the Penhaligon’s boutique in New York closed in March 2008. You can still find the Penhaligon’s line at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Penhaligon’s is a charming buttonhole of a boutique tucked between the sleek emporia of Madison Avenue, a diminutive shop that transports its visitors back to London in the Edwardian era. Inside, its fragrances for men and women are displayed on dark-wood shelving that sets off their decorative, old-fashioned packaging. The scents themselves range from classic (Bluebell, a favorite of many “English roses”) to sweetly quirky (Artemesia), and they are all highly wearable. Matching perfumed soaps, dusting powders, or candles are also available for many of the fragrances. All of Penhaligon’s merchandise is appropriate for gift-giving, including a carefully edited selection of lacquer trinket boxes, shaving implements for the neo-traditional gentleman, and silver picture frames suitable for any lady’s dressing table…
The New York outpost of this Japan-based retailer specializes in exclusive and imported brands, and its fragrance selection is a feast of hard-to-find scents. The fragrance and beauty departments recently moved from the store’s tranquil, spacious sixth floor down to the main floor; the new location may lack the upper level’s sense of sanctuary, but it offers greater visibility and more efficient browsing. After perusing the shelves of unusual perfumes (and the nearby offerings of cosmetics and skincare, including Shu Uemura, Dr. Ci:Labo, and Kanebo), be sure to visit the bed and bath department on the fifth floor, where even more fragrances are paired with accompanying bath products and home fragrance… 
Last week I spent a few days in New York City on the way to a friend’s wedding. (By the way, this was the friend for whom I asked your