• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources
Browsing by tag: luca turin

A chemical poem

Posted by Robin on 10 October 2015 2 Comments

Perfume is not a smell. It’s what I call a message in a bottle. A smell has no intent. A perfume is like a chemical poem composed by a human being to impart an idea or sensation or emotion to another human being. The best ones are those where the intent is clear, otherwise it’s just something nondescript that smells vaguely good. So if the intent is intelligent, humorous, surprising, novel, profound, then the critic’s job is to read that intent and put it into words. In a sense, you’re simply translating.

— Luca Turin on perfume and perfume criticism. Read more at Follow your nose: a lesson in perfume-making at The Guardian.

One repellent confection

Posted by Robin on 26 May 2015 9 Comments

[x] is every brassy “gourmand” cliché rolled into one repellent confection.

In short, [y] is an expensive version of a cheap perfume, like one of those little town cars offered with a burl walnut trim option for snobs.

[z] is the sort of fragrance that restores one’s ebbing faith in cost-no-object perfumery.

— From Luca Turin's latest review at Style.com/Arabia, which covers Dior Fève Délicieuse, Guerlain Bouquet de la Mariée and Elie Saab Essence No. 2. See if you can guess which sentence is about which fragrance...

Taking the customer for an idiot

Posted by Robin on 30 October 2013 30 Comments

The fragrance industry is one of the stupidest industries I've ever encountered. It is almost uniquely predicated on taking the customer for an idiot. Apple doesn't sell its products on the basis that you and I are stupid. But the fragrance industry does.

— Luca Turin, quoted in A Talk With Luca Turin at Georgakopoulos.org. Found via Bois de Jasmin at Facebook.

A controversial theory

Posted by Robin on 27 January 2013 4 Comments

A controversial theory that the way we smell involves a quantum physics effect has received a boost, following experiments with human subjects.

It challenges the notion that our sense of smell depends only on the shapes of molecules we sniff in the air.

— Read more at 'Quantum smell' idea gains ground at BBC News.

The Little Book of Perfumes ~ Q & A with Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez, part 2

Posted by Robin on 10 November 2011 60 Comments

Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez

Last week, we gave readers the chance to ask Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez questions about perfume and their new book, The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics. Here are their answers.

Karin: Hey Luca and Tania – we miss you!!!! Would love to see an update of The Guide. Is that a possibility?

TS: Thanks for asking. We’re both burned out on the subject at the moment. Sorry!

Angela: My question is, in your opinion which perfume house has had the most heinous reformulations? (My money is on Dior.) Which house has had the most respectful reformulations?

TS: The most heinous would be Caron. Respectful—this may not be a fair question. Dior has been abominably unlucky. (See below.) I do think that Piguet’s reconstructions of Fracas, Baghari and Futur were perfect examples of how one can do legacy perfumery with integrity. (Of course, Cravache and Visa were perfect examples of how not to.)

Robin: Angie, I have a side question that relates to yours — in their review of Diorella (2011 update) they say “No one can blame Dior’s head perfumer, Francois Demachy, for allergen regulations that have made citrus, jasmine, and oakmoss tricky to use’, but it seems to me that you’re spot on, Dior has done the worst job of any house. Just figures that they had all the iconic Edmond Roudnitska fragrances. I’d like to know if there is something about those fragrances in particular that makes them harder to update than, say, the fragrances in Chanel’s back catalog.

TS: That’s just it…

Read the rest of this article »

« Newer articles
Older articles »

Advertisement

Search

From NST at Twitter

  • "ernesto neto highlights the cycles of nature in latest installation at tanya bonakdar gallery" (scented exhibit in… https://t.co/qp81Uglhsx, 13 hours ago
  • @ChemistBottle Can't disagree...always liked that bottle shape but the colors aren't appealing, 13 hours ago
  • Updated info on Guerlain Habit Rouge L'Instinct https://t.co/LwuZCy3gtq https://t.co/exoPnjgQId,
  • Amouage has streamlined and repackaged the Libray (Opus) collection. 2 remain: Opus V and Opus VII. Rose Incense fr… https://t.co/D1pIB4gZzW,
  • "Blossom season takes over! Saudi's Taif Rose Festival delights one and all" (mashable middle east) https://t.co/bSvUUGZeJz,

Browse by…

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

April 2022
March 2022
February 2022
January 2022
December 2021
November 2021
Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2022 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.