Today, I tackle six more Floraïku perfumes; for an introduction to the line, see yesterday's Part I.
Sound of a Ricochet (vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood) "A red dragonfly under the burning sky, the sound of a ricochet."
What a great name: Sound of a Ricochet. I expected something sharp, startling, so I was surprised at the warm notes listed for this scent. This is a cuddly, wool-y scent, with creamy vanilla and tonka bean (and cashmeran if I'm not mistaken). This one feels more like a "Shadowing" scent than either of the Shadowing perfumes I reviewed yesterday (Between Two Trees or Sleeping on the Roof). Sound of a Ricochet is a nice aroma, but there are hundreds of comfy tonka bean perfumes out there for a third of the price...or less.
The Moon and I (mate, matcha, cedar) "In this world of dreams, the moon and I contemplating night flowers."
This one starts off by smelling like hard candy made from original-formula Listerine. After that weird opening, I detect interesting medicinal, green-herbal and malted notes. The therapeutic vibe leads to a gasoline-like scent. The mix of jarring and comforting notes is novel to say the least and The Moon & I is the most original of the collection. I like it but it disappears quickly.
My Love Has the Color of the Night (gaiac, patchouli, vetiver) "My love has the color of the night; a firefly in the swimming pool's light."
Now this fragrance smells expensive (as rich woods often do); it's a lovely mix of smoky, intense, incense-y notes — "wood-shavings" of cedar/gaiac. Smelling this is like encountering a fresh box of the most costly church incense. The dry down smells of beautiful balms.
One Umbrella for Two (black currant, genmaicha, cedar) "Our eyes raise to the sky, no rain, one umbrella for two."
One Umbrella for Two presents toasted brioche with berry jam and this berry smells real...tangy-sweet-juicy-ripe. I assume the "brioche" I'm smelling is what Floraïku describes as genmaicha (this note also comes close to smelling like toasted coconut). One Umbrella for Two is perhaps the most fun/carefree of the Floraïku scents and if you love dessert gourmands, it's worth a try. The perfume dries down to sheer fruit and cedar. As with others in the line, there's no connection between the perfume name and poem and the fragrance.
I Am Coming Home (ginger, white tea, cardamom) "Shivering lights far away, tonight, I am coming home."
I Am Coming Home is a tea scent that's almost a dead ringer for (but not nearly as good as) Goutal Paris Duel (100 ml Eau de Parfum/$202); we're done here.
My Shadow on the Wall (violet leaf, mimosa, sandalwood) "Pale summer moon, oh silence, my shadow on the wall."
My Shadow on the Wall opens with an interesting combination of violet leaf and mimosa that self-destructs in seconds, leaving a sheer suede aroma in its wake. One of two things is happening here: 1. I'm anosmic to a fragrance note or there's a note that produces major "nose fatigue" as I sniff it or 2. this is a terribly formulated, discordant mess. What I get on the air during the course of the day is a sour violet leaf/leather with gigantic puffs of off-putting, harsh "mimosa." For me, this is the worst of the collection that I've encountered.
After sampling 11 Floraïku "perfumes," I won't search for the ones I missed. And: TOO BAD. The Floraïku art direction, visuals and ideas, are striking. But perfume-wise, everything seems 'rushed' (too many perfumes released and created way too fast). And making connections between perfume names and poems and what's in the bottle? Lazy and meaningless. The Shadowing concept is plain silly. Did anyone even test the Shadowing scents with the other perfumes in the collection? I think not, because when you do, Frankenstein monsters are produced or fragrances become victims of the Shadowing monsters and disappear. From recent experience, the more pricey a perfume collection, the bigger the disappointment and the lazier the craftsmanship. And a final warning: test these on SKIN, not on paper strips, for the real experience. Did anyone at Floraïku wear these before their release? As I wended my way through the collection, I had to wonder.
Floraïku Eaux de Parfum are $350 for 60 ml (a 50 ml bottle and 10 ml travel spray); the fragrances are available in 60 ml refills ($206) and 10 ml travel sprays ($76). An 11-scent sampler containing 1.5 ml sprays is $35 (and the $35 can be applied to your first bottle order).
For me, perfume brands like this are the epitome of what is wrong with niche perfumery these days: form over function, too much high concept and little execution, stellar prices for the same mainstream sh*t or even worse.
Bill: I wonder how many are “affected” like me, who are simply DONE caring about the flood of new releases, brands, concepts…a large number of them outrageously priced.
I am done.
The Memo’s I love, I really love, and Tiger’s Nest will be in my collection forever. But, sounds like the accountants are pressuring the creative people to “do something.” Really too bad, as some of those bottles are striking.
I also love your taken no prisoners reviews here, Kevin!
meredifay: thanks! I had LOTS of time to test these (trapped at home).
Guess it’s time for my contrarian review 😉
Sound of a Ricochet : vanilla/tonka, sandalwood. For me, this waffled back and forth between warm/fuzzy and musty.
The Moon and I : I *still* don’t like mate.
My Love Has The Color of the Night : We agree! Well, it had to happen sooner or later 😉
One Umbrella for Two : Something nutty (genmaicha?) with blackcurrant. Like.
I Am Coming Home : Not with me, you’re not. Paint stripper.
My Shadow on the Wall : Dead flat sandalwood and… rice?
Bonus review:
Flowers Turn Purple (basil, lavender, amber woods): Herbal blah. Can’t detect any lavender.
So, what did I buy? Travel sprays of One Umbrella For Two, My Love Has the Color of the Night, and First Dream of the Year. That’ll do me 🙂
pixel: yes, that’s a lot!
I was given a sample of Umbrella For Two at Arielle Shoshona. I love a good gourmand scent and fell in love with it. However, there is no way I could ever justify paying that much for a fragrance.
KK: agree…for that price I need to smell something I adore and that I’ve never encountered before. In fact, I’ve never got to that price yet with perfume.
Curious: Has anyone here ever smelled a perfume worth $750? Or even $350? Especially for 60 ml?
My experience, maybe not broad because I’m not hitting the stores for every new release, but long, is that the higher the price the less likely the juice is to actually smell good. The price always seems to be justified by some worthless concept, maybe with some decent packaging, but the juice is usually worth less than in a perfume that costs half that.
But it would be interesting to hear whether anyone here has smelled a $350 or $500 or $750 perfume that actually seemed worth that money.
I hate to say it , but a few of the Roja Doves SMELL ‘worth the money’ though I still probably wouldn’t actually spend the money ??. I was tempted by his Diaghilev but I used to have a bottle from when it was a £75 EDT, so I’m loathe now to pay over £700 for the Parfum version ?