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The Monday Mail ~ help Thomas find a new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 2 March 2020 44 Comments

Thomas, who lives in Berlin, wants to find a new "handsome and rich" fragrance for personal and casual wear. He does not know much about perfume, but he is interested in exploring — especially the world of niche fragrance —and has good access to perfume stores. His price limit is about the same as a 50 ml bottle of a Tom Ford Private Blend, and he'd like his new scent to be long lasting, but without overwhelming sillage. Here is what we know about Thomas:

He's in his early 40s.

He works as an archivist [editor note: personal information removed], dealing with materials from the 15th Century to the present day.

He boyfriend describes him as a warm, bubbly fellow who likes hugs but also likes to be challenged.

His favorite word is Gemutlich.

He is more bookish than outdoorsy — he likes to read old things — and he dresses simply and casually.

Thomas currently wears Tom Ford Oud Wood, Schwarzloze Leather and Terre d'Hermès (although he feels the Hermès smells too old / mature). In the past he wore Gucci Rush and Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger, but he no longer likes either fragrance.

So far as notes, Thomas likes grass, sage, thyme, melissa, parsley, mandarin, strawberry, orientals, incense and sandalwood.

He does not like bergamot or sharp citrus (and in general prefers warm over sharp), and he isn't the hugest fan of patchouli. Discreet floral notes are okay but he would probably not wear a straight floral.

What say you?

Note: image is post_te [cropped] by fedewild at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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44 Comments

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  1. d3m0lici0n says:
    2 March 2020 at 11:32 am

    I’d suggest Dior Bois d’Argent.
    It has frankincense, a discreet iris note. It sits close and lasts all day I think it will suit him prefectly

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  2. austenfan says:
    2 March 2020 at 11:53 am

    This is very random, but because it smells of old books and paper, maybe L’Artisan Dzing! will fit the bill. It’s warm without being overwhelming and it is fun, without being silly.

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    • Singlemaltcat says:
      2 March 2020 at 12:39 pm

      I think this is a good one. Love the old books aspect.

      Maybe Tauer’s L’air du Desert Marocain for something incense.

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  3. stinker_kit says:
    2 March 2020 at 11:59 am

    I think Dior Homme might be worth trying as well. For some reason Ineke Idyllwild popped into my head. A gentle scent full of nostalgia and wood and plant notes.

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    • hajusuuri says:
      2 March 2020 at 8:08 pm

      I second Dior Homme, the Original.

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  4. Anna Stromberg says:
    2 March 2020 at 12:11 pm

    I suggest 1270 from Frapin. It’s warm and spicy with lots of candied fruits. Very timeless and interesting.

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  5. Omega says:
    2 March 2020 at 12:18 pm

    First one that crossed my mind was Caligna L ‘artisan..great sage note with just little bit of fig for fruit.

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  6. Turtje says:
    2 March 2020 at 12:29 pm

    Maybe Arquiste El!

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  7. Aurora says:
    2 March 2020 at 12:43 pm

    What about a classic: classic herbal woody Guerlain Vetiver, classic oriental Guerlain Habit Rouge, classic leather Knize Ten and a special mention for the woody incense l’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu (with its legendary library).

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    • DuftHochZwei says:
      2 March 2020 at 4:07 pm

      In his nose Terre d’Hermès smells too mature, so I don’t share these as an option. With the exception of Timbuktu, which is not for everybody, but could fit!

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  8. Celestia says:
    2 March 2020 at 1:14 pm

    Guerlain’s Heritage is warm and classic. For a more modern one, try L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme EDT or Homme Boisee.

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    • AnnieA says:
      2 March 2020 at 1:52 pm

      Seconding Guerlain Pour Homme.

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  9. Koyel says:
    2 March 2020 at 1:45 pm

    I might suggest Heeley Cardinal (great dry incense), Frederic Malle Dries van Noten (juicy sandalwood), Diptyque Tam Dao (quiet, skin-scent sandalwood; like a hug), and Hermes Ambre Narguile (gourmand oriental apple pie). All very warm, cozy scents!

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    • rayleighblue says:
      3 March 2020 at 8:20 am

      Seconding Ambre Narguile!

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    • cazaubon says:
      3 March 2020 at 3:55 pm

      All lovely suggestions!

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  10. Jiji says:
    2 March 2020 at 1:46 pm

    Bois d’Encens by Armani.
    Hinoki by Comme des Garçons
    Ormonde Woman (If OW is too sweet then Ormonde Man might be a good try as well, though Woman is so much better than Man imho ?)
    French Lover, by Frederic Malle

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    • Jiji says:
      2 March 2020 at 1:54 pm

      I added a short decription!

      Bois d’Encens is a gorgeous churchy but discrete incense, perfect for work environments

      Hinoki is more ‘outdoorsy incense’, aromatic woodlands. Its calming, I wear it to job interviews hahha.

      Ormonde Woman is green and warm/woody. But also sweet.

      French Lover is aromatic green, smells like hiding in shrubbery, but with a bit of incense/musk to give it warmth.

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    • monkeytoe says:
      2 March 2020 at 2:13 pm

      Great minds think alike!

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      • Jiji says:
        2 March 2020 at 2:16 pm

        ?

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  11. monkeytoe says:
    2 March 2020 at 2:13 pm

    I am not sure of the price of anything but I though of four that might be good fits for you:

    Ormonde Woman (Neither Ormande Woman nor Ormande Man lean one trad “gender” or another to my nose and the Man is heavy in bergamot, where the Woman is richer notes)

    Tauerville Incense Flash

    Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur

    All three Monocle + Comme des Garçons collabs are worth trying for warm woody scents. I don’t remember any of them having strong citrus.

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    • Jiji says:
      2 March 2020 at 2:19 pm

      Great choice! ?
      oh and there is a Scent Four: Yoyogi
      I havent smelled it (yet) though. But notes sound very green, grass, wormwood… camomile….

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      • DuftHochZwei says:
        2 March 2020 at 4:23 pm

        I own Yoyogi, so I know it, and I agree!

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  12. Deva says:
    2 March 2020 at 2:16 pm

    Well, just so happens that what I’m wearing today would fit the bill- Felanilla. Unisex. Warm. Cozy. Encompassing. Moderate sillage. Affordable. Generally well received by the general populace. Comforting and calming. Accessible. You’re welcome.✌?

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  13. DuftHochZwei says:
    2 March 2020 at 4:21 pm

    My recommendations:
    – The warm vetiver of the underrated Ombre Fumée by Evody.
    – Heeley’s Phoenicia with its warm woods around small dried fruits.
    – The elegance in slim woody smoke of Pierre Guillaume’s Monsieur.
    – The sophisticated mild oriental spicy and soft leather of Mon Seul Désir by Jul et Mad.

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  14. sugarvenom says:
    2 March 2020 at 4:38 pm

    Hmm, L’Ombre dans L’Eau, Sycomore, Santal Blanc (newer, more transparent version), 1957… so many to recommend!

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    • Glannys says:
      3 March 2020 at 9:42 am

      I second Sycomore.

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  15. Cybele says:
    2 March 2020 at 6:24 pm

    Wonderoud Comme des Garcons
    Tom Ford Vert D’Enscence
    Bel Ami Vetiver Guerlain
    enjoy!

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    • Cybele says:
      2 March 2020 at 7:01 pm

      Vert d’Encens :)

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    • Glannys says:
      3 March 2020 at 9:43 am

      I second Vert d’Encens

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  16. apsara says:
    2 March 2020 at 6:52 pm

    Eight&Bob Egypt.

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  17. viridiaan says:
    2 March 2020 at 7:41 pm

    Hermès Vetiver Tonka or Voyage… the parfum version, or MMM (untitled) for a grassy, smoky incense.

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  18. kaos.geo says:
    2 March 2020 at 8:34 pm

    Hello!
    I would recommend Book by Commodity, Memoir d’un Odeur by Gucci or Eau De Campagne by Sisley.

    Cheers!

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  19. Jalapeno says:
    2 March 2020 at 8:55 pm

    3 suggestions: AG Incense Flamboyant, MH Fleurs de Sel, and seconding L’Artisan Timbuktu.

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  20. Coumarin says:
    3 March 2020 at 3:38 am

    My thought was Egoiste from Chanel. Not hard to find either and definitely handsome and rich!

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    • Nancyleandros says:
      3 March 2020 at 8:06 pm

      I absolutely second Egoiste.

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  21. Liza says:
    3 March 2020 at 9:06 am

    Seconding Malle French Lover (Bois d’Orage) and L’Artisan Timbuktu, and adding L’Artisan Mechant Loup (sandalwood, honey, hazelnut, and myrrh), Sigil Anima Mundi (hinoki, immortelle, with faint hints of rose and jasmine), and (much gentler than it once was, with pine, incense, musk, and herbs) Caron Yatagan.

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  22. teebear says:
    3 March 2020 at 9:53 am

    Hwyl by Aesop?

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  23. Sapphire says:
    3 March 2020 at 10:50 am

    I would recommend Carner Barcelona D400. Cozy with iris and vetiver and some vanilla. There is also a German perfume brand called Lengling that has a lot of nice scents. I have A la Carte, which is very gourmand. It has oud, sandalwood, pistachio, toffee, benzoin, vanilla and heliotrope. Very long lasting and a tiny bit goes a very long way.

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  24. SmokeyToes says:
    3 March 2020 at 12:37 pm

    I’d suggest:
    -Chanel Egoiste Platinum- Bracing herbal fougere with a woods dry down.
    -Diptyque’s L’ Eau Trois – Mediterranean herbal with labdanum/resins dry down.
    -Estee Lauder’s Youth Dew Bath Oil, moderate sillage excellent staying power – a beautiful Oriental. It’s gorgeous on men (I tested it on my hubby).

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  25. cazaubon says:
    3 March 2020 at 3:59 pm

    I suggest Profumum Roma Arso or Santalum.

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  26. Fabio says:
    4 March 2020 at 2:53 am

    I read so many interesting suggestions, some I may try myself.

    I do also suggest Thomas try Heritage EdT and Armani Bois d’encens.
    The first one may feel a bit mature to him, but to me, it smells about classic elegance.
    The second is a bit expensive but definetely worth a try.

    I would also suggest him Floris Vert Fougère, depending how much he’s bother by patchouli

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  27. Cybele says:
    4 March 2020 at 9:30 am

    I really like this one too (adding to my suggestions above)
    Le Labo Vetiver 46

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  28. Thomas says:
    4 March 2020 at 9:58 am

    Hello everybody!
    Thank you all for these many wonderful and helpful suggestions! A lot of them sound just perfect to me and I can’t wait to try all those I can get my nose on. Today I started with the first perfume store, where I tried Guerlain’s Habit Rouge (I liked it a lot at first, but then it became to flowery for me) and Vetiver (I liked its brittleness, but maybe a bit too plain on the whole). Then I went for Tom Ford’s Vert d’Encens, very invitingly woody and sombrely churchy! Yet so much more to discover …

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    • Cybele says:
      6 March 2020 at 7:22 pm

      Let us know what more you discover!

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