Niche line Nomenclature will launch Fluo_ral, a new fragrance highlighting the synthetic note Calone, in May.
A radical reinvention of aquatic fragrances, fluo_ral takes its cue from a striking natural phenomenon: the surreal blue shimmer of bioluminescent plankton, edging the indigo waves of Jervis Bay, Australia, at night. A dive into the bay of dreams.
The molecule: Calone®
Discovered by Pfizer chemists in 1965 doing research on tranquilizers, Calone turned out to be more efficient when inhaled. Its sea-spray, green and melon facets were so powerful that perfumers took over two decades to fully exploit the molecule. It went on to spawn the most iconic fragrance families of the 90s: aquatic fragrances. A victim of its success, Calone has been dormant for the past two decades. With fluo_ral, [perfumer] Nathalie Feisthauer introduces it into a radically different ecosystem.The scent: Glowing bright in the dark
In the 90s, Calone was used for clean, limpid aquatic scents. Here, Nathalie Feisthauer amps up its transparency by backlighting it with green notes so bright they veer on the fluorescent. Rhubarb, blackcurrant bud and tomato leaf add both the vegetal scents of a moonlit seaside jungle and the eerie glow of bioluminescent plankton edging indigo waves. Then she sets it off against the ink-black depths of Somalian incense, its metallic facets adding their cool gleam to the saline effects of Calone. In this powerfully contrasted and textured environment, the molecule evolves into a new olfactory life form. This is marine, but not as we know it…
Additional notes include pink pepper, rose and cedar.
Nomenclature Fluo_ral will be available in 10, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum.
(via press release)
Not sure what I think of this. My nose actually likes aquatics, but my stomach seldom does.
I liked old school calone — New West was a long time favorite. I’m mostly sick of them now, but a light version with tomato leaf and incense, that could be good? Or not, who knows, but seems worth a shot.
Yes, I always perk up at incense!
This sounds very interesting. I virtually bathed in New West back in my salad days & was longing to smell it again so badly, I plunked down 40 bucks for a credible dupe. But what’s with the pink peppercorn in so many frags? Is it the new jasmine or something?