Amy has a Monday Mail request — she needs help finding a particular "fragrance unicorn". Her quest started when she passed an older woman in Boston who smelled "absolutely electric". She was wearing Caron Poivre. Amy eventually managed to smell Poivre at the Caron boutique, but it no longer had the same "gutsiness" she remembered. Meanwhile, she has moved to Texas, where the heat makes it hard for her to wear dense fragrances. So Amy would love to find something with a Poivre-level spicy punch, but in a warm weather fragrance. Her maximum budget is $200 but she'd be thrilled to find something cheaper, and she'd like her new scent to be something that's still in production (no hunting down vintage treasures, please). She's fine with ordering samples online.
Amy is in her mid 20s. Her new fragrance doesn't have to be work appropriate, but it has to be something she can wear in very hot weather.
Some general likes and dislikes:
She doesn't "get" Guerlain Mitsouko or most classic orientals, but she does like the presence in everything she has smelled from perfumer Germaine Cellier.
She loves spicy florals including rose and carnation, but finds most white florals other than Fracas screechy/headache inducing.
She enjoys frankincense but not amber.
She doesn't like large doses of powder.
Vanilla or coconut are ok, but can be cloying in the summer.
She likes fruit in perfume, especially figs, stone fruit (osmanthus is also great), and tart citrus.
Here are some (spicy and not spicy) fragrances she has tried and/or purchased:
Chanel Sycomore: Amy has never met a vetiver fragrance she didn't like, and she adores Sycomore, though to her nose it's too thick and "wooly" for summer wear.
L'Artisan Parfumeur Piment Brulant: she liked the spiciness but "it doesn't really go anywhere on me".
Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose: the first 10 minutes are amazing. She will probably buy this eventually.
Carthusia Mediterraneo: she likes the bright lemony note, and will probably buy this eventually too.
Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentree: a full bottle purchase, she wears it alone or sometimes layered with other samples.
Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue: smells sour on her.
Love, Chloe: a scrubber.
Origins Ginger Essence: her mom wears it, fun but a little well mannered.
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
I say she needs an Hermes travel set with:
Poivre Samarcande
Osmanthe Yunnan
Vetiver Tonka
(and either Pamplemousse Rose since she likes it or a wildcard Hermessence like Santal Massoia or Cuir d’ange)
Also worth sussing out a decant of Le Labo Poivre 23. Heavenly but over budget. Happy sniffing!
I wonder if Paprika Brasil might not make the perfect 4th perfume in your excellent Hermessence suggestion? :^)
perhaps
I cant recall if I have smelt that one.
You kind of have to like the smell of red peppers. ;^)
I’ve been meaning to test these out, and I love the smell of red pepper! I didn’t know the travel sets were a choose your own adventure thing, that definitely makes it easier to find something enjoyable. Thanks!
Amy might enjoy either Le Labo Vetiver Oil ( pricy) or Kenzo L’Elephant.
Ooh, I don’t think I’ve ever run across a bottle of L’Elephant but It looks like people think it’s pretty clove-y. A must try, thanks hannahmom!
I think Poivre Electrique by Atelier Cologne would be Amy’s best shot. It has some similar notes to Caron’s Poivre but it also includes Bitter Orange as a note which qualifies as a tart citrus. It is also in budget.
I didn’t know Atelier Cologne did a pepper based frag! I got a travel size of their Orange Sanguine from my mom and like spritizing a little right after a shower as a pick-me-up. Will definitely poke around for it at the mall!
For spicy floral that are not too syrupy maybe Bois de Paradis (Parfums delRae) or a Smell Bent, like Prairie Nymph. For spicy with a hint of pepper/gunpowder Bapteme du Feu.
I’ve never tried anything from Parfums del Rae or Smell Bent, and have only dipped a toe into SL – am very excited to explore new brands! Thanks!
I’m guessing that Amy has already tried some of the other spicy Carons, such as Bellodgia, En Avion, and Parfum Sacre. If not, that might be a good place to start.
Other suggestions:
Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale
Eae d’ Italie Paestum Rose
Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady
L’Artisan Parfuneur Nuit de Tubereuse
Ormonde Jayne Ta’if
Papillon Artisan Perfumes Tobacco Rose
Tauer L’Air Du Desert Marocain
If Donna Karan’s Black Cashmere is currently in production (it was discontinued, and then brought back–I don’t know the current status), that would be worth a try.
JAR Diamond Water is heartbreakingly over budget, but worth a sniff if some ever comes her way.
Hi Liza, a lot of these have been hovering on the edge of my “to try” list! I have tried Oelliet Bengale and it is lovely, though I was holding out hope for more carnation. Thanks for the recommendations!
Maybe Noir Epices??
I was thinking along those lines as well. It’s a brilliant fragrance.
My thought exactly.
My first thought as well!
Can I call it a dry, spicy chypre? Yes, I can. Its not an easy perfume and might have a bit of a learning curve before getting to know it. It also smells like it contains a higher than usual amount of natural ingredients.
I think Amy can handle it; she’s used to the gorgeous Poivre! Will it be a worthy substitute though?
Oh my gosh!!! I got a sample of this somehow early on, tried it in the middle of summer and thought it I was going to choke on it. Fast forward a year later mid-autumn and I figure I’ll give it another shot and holy cow it was gorgeous! Layer and layers of goodness to pick though! At the time I drained the sample but didn’t buy more (sad budget was sad). I need to try it again before the weather gets too cool, but it could definitely be a winner.
1. Fleuriste by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is a lovely summer carnation (as lovely as you can get post-IFRA). I live in California’s Central Valley, and our summers are very hot.
2. Milk of Flowers by Geo F. Trumper smells like stock flowers, and they smell like carnations. It’s long lasting for a cologne.
Carnations! I’ve been on the lookout for a good carnation and will definitely give these a sniff, thanks!
Comptoir Sud Pacifique L’Eau du Gouverneur came to mind.
Oh, I think there might be a counter now at Saks! Looking forward to spicy vetiver!
Hi Amy! Seems like we have some similarity in tastes. I’m not sure I have any spicy scent recommendations specifically for summer, but here’s my list anyway:
– Arquiste Nanban
– Guerlain AA Winter Delice – long discontinued and thus pricy
– Shalimar Parfum Initial L’eau – mild spices, citrus, vanilla: this one is ok for me in summer
– Hendley Gia – not for summer though
– Histoires de Parfum 1899 Hemingway
– J Hannah & Co / Canoe Skive
– J Hannah & Co Upton
– Roger et Gallet Fleur d’Osmanthus – definitely summery, and inexpensive
– Rouge Bunny Rouge Incantation
– SL Five O’clock Au Gingembre
– Nishane Spice Bazaar
Ooh, I hadn’t considered any of these! Thanks for the recommendations pixel!
Hard to get that deep, spicy punch in something suitable for southern heat, says the chick in Louisiana who loves heavy fragrance.
I like The Different Company in hot weather, here are some ideas: The Different Company Rose Poivree, The Different Company Osmanthus, possibly TDC Jasmine de Nuit or Sens et Bois.
Patricia Nicolai perfumes also good in the heat, I like the Fig Tea, which smells like osmanthus.
Wildcard is Bruno Acampara Prima T in the OIL. It’s gutsy, but in the oil it doesn’t project, so you don’t get suffocated. Be sure and sample it first.
TDC has definitely been on my list to try and the oil sounds intriguing! Will def give them a sniff!
And thankfully the weather here hasn’t been too humid for the season – far enough inland to have avoided Harvey thank goodness.
Malle Noir Epices, DelRae Bois de Paradis (same perfumer), Diptyque l’Eau (the Original), Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose, Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale, Oriza L.Legrand Oeillet Louis XV.
What a great list!
These all sound fabulous austenfan! I’ve sampled Noir Epices and Oelliet Bengale, and both are great. Really looking forward to trying the rest!
OMG, I feel like I have the answer! As someone who loves spicy scents, I have a whole wardrobe of them for all different kinds of weather. And what have I been wearing to death this summer, especially in hot weather: Santa Maria Novella Garofano. This is a very spicy but also refreshing cologne that combines citrus with carnation. It is currently production and available from LAFCO in New York City for sure. I have smelled Caron Poivre and while this isn’t as peppery as Poivre it’s equally spicy. Haha, I’m wearing it right now. They even have a matching soap–very uplifting!
Unfortunately LAFCO doesn’t give samples (not even in person), but you may be able to get a sample of this from a site that sells them.
Tricky, but not impossible. Will 100% be on the lookout for it, thank you SuddenlyInexplicably!
I was also thinking of Prada Infusion d’œillet but it’s on the weaker side. Also Vero Profumo for old world glamour, and Calypso from Piguet.
I second the Prada Infusion d’œillet – gorgeous stuff.
Yeap, Amande as well. Those should be extrait-fied for more oomph
Thank you both! I liked the skin scent vibe of Prada’s iris, could definitely go for something similar with carnation. I saw a little mini of Calypso on eBay A while back – will see if it’s still there! Which Vero Profumo would you recommend?
One that I would suggest is LL Si Lolita. You can find it pretty cheap at discounters (I know fragrancenet.com has it really cheap). It’s not super long-lasting, but it is a peppery/spicy floral that isn’t too heavy to wear in heat.
Another one that I though of (though I haven’t actually tried it myself) is Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet.
I’ve tried Vitrol d’Oeilliet! The opening was great and then it got kind of powdery on me, which wasn’t quite what I wanted, but was still well done if you’re thinking of trying it. Thanks, will poke around the internet for some Si Lolita.
Neela Vermeire’s Trayee.
Thanks Hamamelis, I’ve been meaning to try Neela Vermeire’s frags especially after hearing only good things about Bombay Bling. I’ll hunt down a sample!
A few that will be worth sampling at least:
MDCI “Invasion Barbare”
Parfumerie Generale “Indochine”
Chanel “Pour Monsieur”
Memo “African Leather”
Lubin “Idole”
These all sound fantastic, thank you Koenigsberg! How does the lavender in the MDCI comes across? Sometime I find that lavender in fragrances makes me want to sneeze. XD
I agree to try Poivre Samarcande
Donna Karan Chaos: transparent spiciness
Aesop Tacit: hot weather Vetiver
I am always down for more hot weather vetivers. Thanks Cybele, I’ll give these a sniff!
Dyptique vetiver is one I wear in hot weather and not hugely expensive. Timbuktu from L’Artisan seems spicy to me but maybe to masculine for some
Diptyque’s Vetyverio used to be one of my fav’s! Unfortunately I’ve had a recent falling out with tonka bean. I really shouldn’t have tried to hunt down an extract in this case because the note was instantly reminiscent of organic chemistry labs in college…which makes those labs sound much better smelling than they were. Now when I smell Vetyverio it’s impossible to ignore the tonka bean (or something else that smells like tonal bean) in the background.
Timbuktu doesn’t mesh well with my skin unfortunately – something goes sour somewhere in the development, but I enjoy making the s.o. wear it around when he’s willing to play at being a giant test strip.
I have Santa Maria Novella Garofano and agree it’s a good carnation in more of a cologne style, suitable for heat/summer; it’s not heavy or sweet.
I’d like to add the suggestion of Annick Goutal Mandragore Pourpre. It’s spicy, peppery, citrusy, herbal. Definitely not too sweet or heavy for summer-like weather. It’s also very unique and best of all, can be had at the online discounters for around $75/$80.
It occurred to me that I could send you samples of both of the fragrances I mentioned (Garofano and Mandragore Pourpre), as well as the Eau Gentian Blanche someone mentioned below. My email is : sllatindia [ at ] yahoo [ dot ] com.
Sllat, that’s too kind! Thank you so much, I’d love to get to know these frags!
i bet you will love premier figuier l artisan parfumeur and blackpepper cdc.
Premier figuier is great! I’ll dig up my sample and give it another sniff. Also have heard good things about the CdG and will look for it online. Thanks!
I would suggest:
-Hermes’ Eau de gentiane blanche, peppery and spicy but does have a touch of powder.
-Lancome’s Sikkim, dry, spicy/floral and gorgeous in the heat.
-Halston, Halston Couture, dry spicy woods.
By Killian’s Straight to Heaven, another rum and dry spicy chypre with incense in the dry down.
Adding it to the list, thank you SmokeyToes!
I think some Aftelier Ancient Resins body oil is something worth trying. An excellent frankincense and myrrh fragrance that performs beautifully in the heat of south eastern Virginia, plus great for your skin and not too oily.
I’ve never tried anything from Aftelier, thanks for the recommendation stinker_kit! Btw, fantastic handle.
I love spice, but the only one I consistently wear in (Boston) summer is Olfactive Studio’s Lumière Blanche. (It’s also one of my go-tos when I can’t decide what I want to wear year-round.)
I went to school around Boston and miss it dearly. I’ll definitely give Lumiere Blanche a try, and think of the city while I’m at it.
Carnation Comme des Garcons is not too strong for summer. Sadly, it’s not that long-lasting. Have never tried any of their Incense series in the summer…
I’ll try it anyway.
I’m not sure about incense in the summer myself, but I think I might have something from that series. I’ll try it and get back to you!
Iunx Splash Forte is “a carmine red water…
from Jamaica, full of wood and ‘fiery’ spices…Red cedar, bay rum, peppermint and bird’s eye chilli.” That might sound a bit strong, but it’s deftly composed and very wearable.
You described the woman in Poivre as smelling “absolutely electric.” I was similarly thrilled by my first sniffs of Splash Forte. It’s only available in Paris, but I got a sample from Surrender to Chance and then has Shop France Inc. bring it back. Enjoy the hunt!
Thanks nozknoz! It’s always fascinating to me to try fragrances that sparked that stop-in-your-tracks zing for other people. I’ll find out if Splash Forte does the same for me!
Thanks nozknoz! It’s always fascinating to me to try fragrances that sparked that stop-in-your-tracks zing for other people. I’ll find out if Splash Forte does the same for me!
Ginger Ciao- spicy, white floral
Portrait of a Lady- blooms in the heat
Plus L’Etrog and Poivre Piquant.
Thanks Laura, I’ll check these out! I have smelled PoaL on someone at an evening event (stopped them on their way home and asked what they were wearing…like one does) and it was beautiful, though maybe too glamorous for me. I’ll get my hands on a sample and give a try to be sure though.
Maybe Serge Lutens Feminitė du Bois? It has spices and fruits surrounding a whirlwind of cedar and violet. To me it is one of the most beautiful perfumes ever.
Another SL to try! I’ve clearly been neglecting something in my perfumista education. Thanks des esseintes!
Tom Ford Shanghai Lily comes to mind. Sometimes available at online discounters.
I feel like TF and I got off on the wrong foot somehow because I avoid that counter if at all possible. Eh, time to see if I can get a sample from them!