Atelier Bloem is the new niche brand of Matthew Malin and Andrew Goetz, the founders of Malin+Goetz. They debut with six fragrances: 1614, Black Tulip, Half Moon, Iris, Nieuw Amsterdam and William.
1614 ~ "The year Andrew and Matthew’s home away from home in the Hudson Valley was founded. This slightly floral fragrance blends the dewy freshness of sweet clover and citrus with an understated woodsy musk, giving the perfume a subtly sun-warmed scent." With notes of black pepper, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, sweet clover, rose water, orange blossom, teakwood, sandalwood and musk.
Black Tulip ~ "Traditionally the most mysterious and coveted type of Tulip. Also a book by Alexandre Dumas. There is no flower more synonymous with the Netherlands than the tulip, and no tulip more intriguing than the illusive black variety. This scent captures the mysterious, unadulterated beauty of the flower, along with its enigmatic, yet passionate, nature." With notes of ivy, freesia, bergamot, tulip, violet, water jasmine, vetiver, amber, skin musk and blonde woods. [Update: later renamed Extraordinary Tulip.]
Half Moon ~ "The name of the boat Henry Hudson sailed up the eponymous river. This intoxicating mix of jasmine, bergamot, fresh greens, and musk offers a lush, seductive scent that’s perfect for the moody and ethereal ambiance of a night half-lit by the moon." With notes of bergamot, peach, jasmine, honeysuckle, fresh greens, amber, musks and amberwood.
Iris ~ "Scent of iris. With its vibrant color, soft petals, and subtly unique shapes, the iris has often been a muse for painters throughout history. This interpretation of the flower’s scent is smooth and alluring, balancing a refined floral fragrance with a soft, woodsy aroma." With notes of cardamom, rain forest orchid, violet, iris petals, star jasmine, pimento blossom, rose, iris wood, vetiver, tonka bean and musk.
Nieuw Amsterdam ~ "Original Dutch Name for New York. Inspired by tradition, fused with hyper-contemporary elegance, this regionally-inspired blend mixes the sweet, enlightening scent of geranium rose with the warm aromas of cedarwood, amber, and musk." With notes of magnolia, ginger, geranium rose, lotus, rose, honeysuckle, cotton peony, oud, atlas cedar, amber and skin musk.
William ~ "The Dutch Royal Family, known as the House of Orange. A complex, and refreshing Neroli scented parfum distilled from the blossom of the bitter orange tree, as well as the wood and leaves." With notes of neroli petals, nectarine, lavender, orange blossom, freesia, jasmine, blond wood, amber, vanilla, musk and sandalwood
Atelier Bloem 1614, Black Tulip, Half Moon, Iris, Nieuw Amsterdam and William are available now at Barneys, $195 each for 100 ml Eau de Parfum.
A Tulip note is not used very often, right?
I live in the land of tulips and most types I’ve encountered do not have a very pronounced scent. I know there are some sorts that are more fragrant, now I am intrigued and need to find out if i can find some.
And about that Iris, do iris petals have a scent? Saw a lot of iris flowers up close in Japan, I cannot recall a specific smell….(and ‘iris wood’ sounds like a fantasy note to me).
Most tulips have no scent, and the few that do are not extracted so far as I know, so would think this is a fantasy note / accord. But also, MOST notes are fantasy notes and/or synthetics. Even if it says “jasmine” you have no idea if any real jasmine went into the fragrance.
Ditto with iris. There are a few scented iris varieties, don’t think any are extracted.
Possible in both cases that they used headspace, also possible they didn’t.
Should also note that there is no law saying you can’t just make the whole thing up
I dont mind if its fantasy or synthetic, and I know most of the time its an approximation (is that the right word?) of a certain smell.
But it kinda irks me when i read vague stuff like ‘sensual woods’ or in this case ‘iris petals’ and ‘iris woods’. Then again I know its hard to describe a perfume. And i understand why they do it.
But a lot of advertisement copy annoys me, so nevermind me. Its a pet peeve I guess.
In the end all that matters is if it smells good
I really like their Nieuw Amsterdam. What I find very unusual about it is that it manages to be very modern and “warm” at the same time, lasts av very long time (all day long, as a matter of fact), and is surprisingly complex, which I rarely find in scents that I perceive as “modern”.