We haven't done a Monday Mail post in ages — I hope there are still some old-timers around who remember the drill! Layla wants our help. She's outgrown all of her "overly fruity floral one dimensional perfumes", and wants to find something new. She's willing to splurge for the right fragrance. Here is what we know about Layla:
She's in her mid 20s, and is originally from the Middle East, now living in New York.
She's a professional cook, an aspiring freelance writer and a (very) amateur musician.
Her ideal perfume: possibly unisex (or at least, something with some masculine notes), sexy, and woodsy, not so heavy and powerful that she can't wear it to work, maybe with a bit of fruit and a bit of sweetness. She likes floral notes, and is attracted to orientals but finds straight oud too overwhelming.
She doesn't like medicinal notes or anything overly powdery, or anything so sweet that it feels like bubble gum or candy.
Right now she's wearing Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream and finds it pleasant, but she doesn't love it ("boring but nice").
Another clue: if Calvin Klein Euphoria was less heavy, less sweet, and a bit more masculine, it would be perfect.
Here is what she has tried and found lacking:
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium: too sweet, and not unisex/masculine enough, less edgy than the advertising.
Charlotte Tilbury Scent of a Dream: too powdery, not enough woods or exotic notes.
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
My vote is Tocca Colette! A lovely sheer ambery woods with a unisex juniper-citrus thing in the top notes. The Tocca line in general is nice for quality, wearable fragrances that are that step up from the teen market–maybe a Meet The Girls collection?
Estee Lauder Sensuous is my favorite wear-anywhere/work-appropriate woods fragrance, and the flankers–light tropical florals in Nude or deeper spices and fruits in Noir–are both nice too.
Some of the big popular niche woods could be good entry points too: Le Labo Santal 33, TF Santal Blush, Byredo Gypsy Water.
I love Colette and no one ever talks about it! I get the amber and citrus (mostly lemon) from it, but I also get a strong violet note FYI.
+1 For Byredo Gypsy Water. It’s spendy but super wearable.
+2 for Gypsy Water
Try Amouage Fate, a small dab only for work though. It’s complex, woody, spicy (cinnamon), and floral.
Throwback! Some suggestions: Donna Karan Chaos or Signature (both gorgeous woody/unisex scents); Sensuous Noir; any of the “Bois” scents from Serge Lutens; SJP Stash; Spicebomb.
Stole one of my answers: Stash by SJP.
Good rec!
I too went for that straight away. Seconding Stash
I’ll second any of the Bois from Serge L.
Comme des Garcons Black Pepper. Unisex, edgy when compared to Daisy, Bkack Opium etc. Pepper and woods with a nice dry down, and would not disturb anyone at work. Nanban for a richer scent.
2 good things right away….She’s willing to splurge, and she has lots of shopping options in NYC!
The first line that came to my mind is Byredo. Many of their perfumes are unisex…perhaps Gypsy Water?
I was able to really get an idea of what I really like by trying samples from Luckyscent and the like. In fact, before settling on a bottle, sample sample sample sample! Take your time, Layla, and enjoy finding what you love! Disclaimer: You’ll find more than one love, guaranteed!
Luckyscent, Surrender to Chance, Scentbird.
Free samples from local shops (lucky you Layla, so many options in NYC!)
Hmm, if you wanted to go in sandalwood direction I think Tam Dao would be nice. I also think Oscar de la Renta’s Santo Domingo might fit the bill, depending on whether or not a tobacco note was appealing.
+1 For Tam Dao, unisex, clean, great year round.
Was also going to say Tam Dao!
Hey Layla!
1) Given that Layla is grinding a lot like a lot of NYCers, she is gonna need something easy to find and grab. For a fragrance that is lovely for a woman to wear while having a deeper masculinity tinge to it:
Stash by SJP- which turns into a perfect fresh woodsy scent with a floral/spice finish.
Cannabis Rose OR Cannabis by Fresh
White Patchouli by Tom Ford- the three of these have a chypre- mixed floral base but then follow HARD with herbs and woods. Definitely a unisex, but with a feminine vibe. These are VERY sexy unisex scents, particularly the White Patchouli.
2) All of these can be purchased in rollerball size- so no need to totally splurge out yet!
Welcome to NYC!
I would explore some Le Labo scents, they have stores in the city and the one time I went they gave me a few samples. Santal 33 is very popular here and if you don’t smell it in the stores you will on the streets!
Journey Woman comes to mind also
If you like amber, Voyage by Hermes is nice and unisex
If you don’t mind wandering over to the men’s section Egoiste by Chanel is worth trying on the skin.
You can also try some Guerlains, maybe the Les Déserts d’Orient. Maybe Songe d’un Bois d’Été
I’m wearing Voyage today, and that’s what came to mind when reading her letter. I went from wearing MJ Daisy to Voyage, after stumbling upon it at duty-free, and that was the start of my fragrance journey.
That is a nice way to begin your journey!
How about new Gucci Guilty Absolue?
Or Keiko Mecheri Bois Satin, Chanel Coromandel?
Yes, Chanel Coromandel. Totally agree on that one. Such a nice one.
FM Portrait of a Lady, Edward Bess La Femme Boheme, And the SJP Lovely are all worth a sniff.
What about Infusion d’Iris by Prada? Iris, cedar, clean and respectable while being ladylike but not girlish.
Ok it is completely non-floral and no sweetness at all but the first thing that sprang to mind (woody, unisex, citrus & work appropriate) was Hermes Eau Des Merveilles
That was the first one I thought of too! It’s so office friendly and would be great for summer.
Yes on the Hermes! Such a great choice!
Layla, hie thee to the nearest Hermes shop and smell the whole line!
Agree on Hermes Eau des Merveilles–iit is unisex, clean and a hint of salty sweet. It’s very elegant.
Yes to Hermes! and yay for Eau des Merveilles! aw onderful suggestion. Hermes has many possibilities for Layla.
What about Juliette Has a Gun Mad Madam (might be too heavy but I lurve it) or Gentlewoman (femme with a masculine twist, and with a touch of almond and orange blossom for florals and sweetness)
It looks like she’s tending in my direction but wants something “prettier” than I like, so:
Zoologist Nightengail: Sparkly open, complex heart, woody deep base. Plum, musk, sandalwood, touch of bergamot
Dame Desert Rose: floral oriental with heady rose over amber, totally worksafe
I’ll have to try the Nightingale. It sounds like something I’d like. I want one of those Zoologist sample sets!
I wore two this weekend that a cook might enjoy- Byredo Black Saffron and Miller Harris Piment des Baies. I second the votes for Stash and Tam Dao. Maybe Nirvana Black?
Nirvana Black is great, kind of a violet cousin to Gypsy Water, yeah?
Super wearable.
I also suggest Nirvana Black, which I find a little similar to SJP Stash.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l’aube was inspired by the confluence of orange blossom (a prominent note in eau de cologne), men’s cologne, incense, and beeswax candles. Leather is a mostly unisex category, and it’s hard to beat L’AP Dzing! Actually, I’d recommend trying as many as possible from this line.
Another of the great unisex families is vetiver. My favorites are Annick Goutal and Guerlain. These work very well for the office, too.
Amouage Beloved (which is expensive, but you may be able to find discount deals online) strikes a perfect balance between wood, leather, incense and chypre vibes. Samples from Luckyscent or discounters.
Happy hunting!
My taste is a bit different from a lot of the NST posters, but here are a few of my suggestions:
– Tom Ford’s Santal Blush
– Slumerhouse’s Pear & Olive – although it has been discontinued, there are still places you can get decants of it
– Jo Malone’s Wood Sage & Sea Salt or Basil & Neroli
– Estee Lauder’s Sensuous Noir
I would recommend Guerlain Bois d’Armenie , Chanel Coromandel or Bois des Iles.
My favorite woodsy scent– Sonoma scent studio Champagne de Bois.
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Yeah, Monday Mail!
Hi Layla, I’ll give you 3 recs that each go into different directions: Comme des Garcons Black Pepper, Le Labo Jasmin, Bottega Veneta
enjoy!
Okay for our girl: I am certainly no expert however I know what I like and I have branched out as I am learning.
I love masculine scents and ADORE
INVASION BARBARE by MDCI (FB worthy)
It fits the bill as it is not floral, woodsy – masculine with the mix of lavender note, cedarwood, and cardamom and then a nice vanilla musk…. the ginger makes it unusual and the oakmoss seals the deal. I adore it truly.
Layla, if you like violets and do not consider them “overly powdery”, I would suggest Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Technically it’s a unisex scent, though in my opinion it leans towards the feminine side. Lots of people consider it powdery, but I disagree. It’s sweet but not too sweet, and I think one can wear it to work if applied lightly. You might also want to sniff other “Bois” scents by Serge Lutens if you like a combination of fruits and wood, but they may be too sweet or too powerful for you.
Then there is Pierre Guillaume PG18 Cadjmere – woody, soft, cozy (sandalwood, cypress and vanilla are prominent).
If you like patchouli, you could also try Esteban Patchouli – on me it’s a softer patchouli with floral notes. Not dirty or particularly earthy. But it’s not sweet.
And, finally, Diptyque Eau Duelle. Fragrantica classifies it as a spicy oriental fragrance, but it’s very restrained on me, and sweet notes are balanced by juniper and citruses.
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon
Guerlain Chamade
I love the woods in Ormonde Jayne Woman; the Man smells great too.
Maybe not unisex enough, but sure is sexy – Tom Ford Black Orchid, lightly applied since that one’s a sillage monster (on me it is, anyway). Or, if floral notes arent a requirement, maybe L’Artisan Mechant Loup; anise and rice pudding and woody goodness.
Good luck and have fun finding your perfect scent!
Guerlain Habit Rouge Dress Code is my first choice for Layla. It is unisex / leaning masculine, spicy, woodsy, rose, leather, a little citrus on top, and sweetened by nutty caramel and vanilla.
Sounds like something I need too!
Tauer-L’Air Du Desert Marocain,
L’artisan -Safran Troublant or Timbuktu
Comme des Garcon – Kyoto or Jaisalmer (can try samples via Luckyscent)
Hi Layla,
You’re in a perfect place to try new scents in NYC- should be lots of places to get samples.
I tend to like unisex scents and reccomend trying Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule. For me it turned out to be very office friendly- lots of compliments and works in all but the heat of summer. It’s beautiful woods, a touch of rose and dry cocoa powder with a not too sweet but very cozy drydown.
If you like sweet Amber try Ambre Des Merrvilles by Hermes. Great in winter!
If you like Pachouli you might like Coromandel. I found it fairly strong silage-not real office friendly unless lightly applied and also gorgeous in winter!
Third or fourth vote on the Estee Sensuous for everyday scent. Sensuous Noir for a more complex, version-if you want to try less sweet and more woods than Euphoria.
Good luck to you and happy smelling!
Seconding Diptyque Eau Duelle as a very nice, dry woody vanilla. No fruits to it, but very wearable in lots of settings.
Angel Muse does have fruitiness. It is a lot stronger, but sprayed lightly wouldn’t overwhelm.
Prada Candy is sweeter, but still woody enough not to overwhelm.
Bvlgari Omnia (original) is a chai tea scent, very classy.
L’Instant de Guerlain-honeyed vanilla.
Diptyque Volutes-dry tobacco. EDP is a little fruitier than EDT. Each has its supporters.
Creed – Royal Princess Oud. If you haven’t tried it yet, make your way to the nearest Creed Boutique and get a sample. That juice is beautiful. Sounds like it would be right up your alley. Two sprays for the office, 4 for going out. Excellent longevity and good sillage.
Not overly sweet, the oud is not too intense and it’s just all around a great scent. I can’t get enough of it when my significant other sprays some on and I can smell her from the other side of the house while she’s getting ready, it’s much more subdued as after about 30 mins.
That’s my experience with it.
I’ll put in my plug for Barbara Bui Le Parfum which is a little wood, a little incense, and pretty sexy IMO.
DS & Durga Spirit Lamp is a nice sheer scent with a little fruit, not too sweet, and would make a nice warm weather scent.
Diptyque Philosykos- partly because it was one of my very first niche scents I ever bought.
Arabian Oud Kalemat(a sweeter heavier woody scent)
And my scent of the day Histoires de Parfums 1899 Ernest Hemingway-unisex, creamy spice.
And since you’re in NYC, there are so many places to go to try before you buy!
In my book, unisex, sexy, woodsy, and light with a hint of fruit = Terre d’Hermes. I know it’s marketed more towards men, but there isn’t anything remotely “man-cologne”-y about it. Salty driftwood and grapefruit peel, totally work appropriate, totally unique and dreamy.
I agree, but my brain jumped to the Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche. I love the original Terre, but the citrus of the new Eau Tres Fraiche made it more unisex and more wearable for me. But, truly, as you said above, I think many in the Hermes line would be a good choice for Layla.
Weird thought, Layla, but sniff Byredo’s Pulp. It is very fruity, but tart. It makes me laugh every time I try it.
I agree with many above who recommend Hermes scents. Terre d’Hermes, the TdH Eau Tres Fraiche, almost any of the Jardin series (my faves are Jardin sur le Nil, and en Mediterannee, apres le Mousson), as well as the Eau des Merveilles. It’s tough to go wrong with any Hermes scent. Happy hunting!
I agree with above comment from HemlockSillage, one of the jardins from Hermes is a very good choice! Safe for work and closed spaces.
I prefer mediterranee and sur le nil. But the others are also good. Friend of mine wears Monsieur li, so nice!
And the Eau-series from Hermes is worth a try as well. Fresh, modern, not too sweet, interesting. Though longevity is not that impressive. I get 4-6 hours tops out of my Eau de narcisse Bleue.
CdG 2 Man
Layla you did not mention incense notes, but do try this one. Incense in here is light, woods are prominent and supported by spices and flowers and leather. It has that little bit of an oriental vibe (because of the incense and spices), but its all done very soft and nice, not too sweet.
I hope Layla is exploring some of the retailers where she can test niche and high-end perfumes in NYC! NST had this great list: https://nstperfume.com/perfume-shopping-in-new-york-city/. A couple of ideas for her: Lutens’ Feminite du Bois; SJP Stash, as someone else commented (I didn’t think I would like it myself and I really do, plus it is very affordable and easily available at Ulta); and maybe Adam Levine for Women, which I haven’t tried myself but have read is a good, VERY affordable sandalwood with some flowers and fruit. If one lives in NYC, affordable is important! I wonder if one of the versions of Guerlain’s Samsara might appeal?