Barbara Herman, author of Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume, has launched Eris Parfums, featuring three fragrances developed by perfumer Antoine Lie and celebrating "unconventional beauty and dark glamour".
Each perfume juxtaposes the Beauty of florals with the Beast of synthetic animalic notes, including civet, castoreum and musk. "Antoine Lie and I have reimagined the intensity and eros of perfumes of the past for a contemporary audience. We wanted to bring back the emotion of animalic perfumes."
Belle de Jour ~ "blooms with notes of orange flower and jasmine accented with coriander. It dries down to a sensuous base of incense, musks, and the depth of a surprising seaweed absolute note. “Belle de Jour is a study in contrasts: a very luminous floral that is salty, sexy and dirty.” - Antoine Lie"
Night Flower ~ "opens with a blast of fresh, aromatic cardamom. Animalic leather and suede wrap around a narcotic Indian tuberose, drying down to a cozy base of birch tar, patchouli, cinnamon and tonka. “Night Flower is a leathery, animalic floral fragrance. Spellbinding, sexual and addictive.” – Antoine Lie"
Ma Bête ~ "caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail. "Ma Bête is fiercely beasty with a raunchy elegance." – Antoine Lie"
Eris Parfums Belle de Jour, Night Flower and Ma Bête are available now for pre-order at Luckyscent, $150 each for 50 ml Eau de Parfum.
(via erisparfums, additional information via luckyscent)
I was wondering when Barbara was going to release these! They sound like they have a vintage vibe….
actually after lamenting the lose of pristine vintage perfumes I should really sample these!
ackk! that would be “loss” not “lose”!!!
Could be great fun! I like the sound of “Antoine Lie’s own animalic cocktail” 🙂
Me too!
me three!!!!
Antoine Lie was the one who came up with Sécrétions Magnifiques, so who knows. Eris was the name of the Greek goddess of strife and discord, which is another indication that these might be a bit challenging.
I contributed to her funding campaign (I wanted to say Kickstarter but I don’t think that was what it was, and now I can’t remember which one she used), so I got a 5ml of Night Flower. I haven’t worn it in a while so need to revisit. My first impression, though, was that it reminded me strongly of Musc Ravageur.
The other two sound like something I need to try, though. “Fiercely beasty” has me intrigued.
I wonder if animalics are the new oud …
maybe…it would be nice to have some vintage inspired perfumes back in the line-up….I would love a resurgence of popularity so that I can wear them without being told that I “smell like an old lady” (even though I kind of am- 🙂 !!)
Hmm. I love Barbara Herman and her book has a permanent place on my nightstand. I would be first in line to give these a try, but her choice of perfumers gives me pause. Not to stir up any controversy here, but in her interview of Lie in the book re: Secretions Magnifiques, I found him to be rather gynophobic. That said, I’ve only tried 2 of his creations listed on this site.