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Aftelier Bergamoss ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 29 June 2015 26 Comments

Aftelier Bergamoss

With all the restrictions on fragrance materials and perfume house budgets, a lot of us fear for classic chypres. Aftelier Bergamoss is proof that the chypre as François Coty conceived of it lives on.

Mandy Aftel created Bergamoss with top notes including bergamot and wild sweet orange; heart notes of peach, citronellol and nutmeg absolute; and a base of oakmoss, flouve absolute, coumarin and antique civet. For me, Bergamoss tags all the bases of a beautifully made chypre and slides in for a home run with its seamless construction.

Because there’s little I like more than abusing a metaphor, let’s examine Bergamoss’s progress as it scores. Prepare your Cracker Jacks.

At bat: Bergamoss is a retro greenish yellow that would look terrific in velvet on a redhead. Its texture is powder-smooth and just thick enough to firmly hold its shape yet melt on skin. It leaves a moist but not greasy texture, even after several layers.

First base: The “berga” part of Bergamoss comes in loud and clear, but a hint of orange keeps it from smelling like a pot of Earl Grey. The citrus is somehow both potent and silky. Thanks to the moss already peeking through, Bergamoss is immediately recognizable as a classic chypre.

Second base: If you slather on enough Bergamoss, its peach and nutmeg come to the fore, but I wouldn’t call Bergamoss a fruity chypre at all. The peach adds body and pulchritude, but it’s more like peach skin than sticky pulp, and somehow Aftel has extended the fragrance’s citrus tang into its heart. The nutmeg here seems to play the same role a pinch of nutmeg does in an egg dish. It casts an earthy shadow without calling attention to itself. And moss moss moss plus the sweet dried hay of coumarin keep Bergamoss’s wet-dry, warm-cool balance perfectly pitched.

Third base: An hour into wear, Bergamoss’s tanginess persists, and although I’d never call the perfume sweet, it’s now off-dry. I can’t detect the civet at all, and the nutmeg becomes more noticeable. After two hours, the fragrance is fading fast. I have to fasten my wrist to my nose to smell it. 

Home: Bergamoss isn’t wildly original or edgy. It's a pure chypre that doesn’t make its identity in the green or floral or fruity notes in its heart. What moves Bergamoss to a different level for me is how seamlessly it’s woven. It’s an old fashioned fragrance that values quality materials and careful craftsmanship over pandering fashion, and I adore that.

An important note: Bergamoss is only offered as a solid. This means it’s a quieter fragrance than many. It also fades by midday. If you equate longevity and sillage with value, you’ll be disappointed. I understand. I’m afraid I’d run through a quarter ounce in a month or two if I had some in my purse. So, budget beware.

Aftelier Bergamoss is $240 for 8 ml of solid perfume in a sterling silver, refillable compact. A sample is $6. For information on where to buy it, see Aftelier under Perfume Houses.

Update: in late 2015 Bergamoss was issued in a limited edition 9 ml Eau de Parfum, $60.

Possibly of interest

Aftelier Boheme Confection ~ new fragrance
Aftelier Joie de Vert ~ fragrance review
Aftelier Joie de Vert ~ new fragrance

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: aftelier, natural perfume, solid

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26 Comments

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  1. AnnS says:
    29 June 2015 at 3:43 pm

    Wow – sounds just so gorgeous! I am lucky to have a small decant of the original Coty Chypre. I horde it when I should really wear it up. I wish this wasn’t so costly, but you get what you pay for right? Swooning!

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 6:27 pm

      It’s definitely a luxury buy, and I don’t see any in my future, either. I love my sample, though!

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  2. nozknoz says:
    29 June 2015 at 3:52 pm

    Love bergamot and moss – need to try this!

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 6:28 pm

      The sample is really reasonable!

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  3. JolieFleurs says:
    29 June 2015 at 4:32 pm

    Santa Baby, slip The Precious under the tree, for me…

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 6:28 pm

      I have a feeling I could run through one of the solids every 6 weeks or so if I kept one in my purse.

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  4. Deva says:
    29 June 2015 at 5:46 pm

    This appeals to me on every level except cost and application. Maybe I can hope for edp in the future but still doubt the cost would be in my ball park. So sad for me 🙁

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 6:29 pm

      I understand exactly how you feel–I feel the same. I love smelling it and wearing it, but for my tight writer’s budget, I don’t see it happening.

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  5. leathermountain says:
    29 June 2015 at 6:31 pm

    Yes, the price makes places this out of reach. Such a shame because it sounds like a great beauty. Thanks for letting us experience it in words!

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 6:45 pm

      You’re welcome!

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  6. hajusuuri says:
    29 June 2015 at 8:33 pm

    Wowee – nice review! Since I can’t just buy one thing (just a sample or two of Bergamoss), I am filling my cart with a few more things…

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 9:15 pm

      I’d love to know what you think of it!

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    • meredifay says:
      30 June 2015 at 12:44 pm

      Oh, yes, sample away and let us know your opinions! I haven’t sprung for any of her stuff yet, but know that is just a matter of time.

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  7. Janice says:
    29 June 2015 at 9:50 pm

    I have liked so many of Mandy Aftel’s perfumes that I will have to try this, even though I’m still a novice when it comes to appreciating chypres. Like hajusuuri, I can’t buy just one sample so I’ll be getting a few others too!

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    • Angela says:
      29 June 2015 at 9:59 pm

      I can recommend the body oils, if you’re in the market for something like that. They’re luxurious and affordable. I made short work of a bottle of the chocolate saffron oil and want to try the frankincense oil next.

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      • Janice says:
        29 June 2015 at 10:41 pm

        Oh, great suggestion. I have the one with coffee and fir and pear–so unusual!–and might have to try some of the others!

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        • Angela says:
          29 June 2015 at 10:45 pm

          That was the other one I was thinking of trying! As you say, it’s so unusual.

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  8. chandler_b says:
    30 June 2015 at 8:28 am

    Is it sad that the only time I use my debit card is to buy fragrance samples or that my debit card can only afford samples!? Lol

    Another beautiful review, thanks Angela!

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    • Angela says:
      30 June 2015 at 10:13 am

      I sympathize!

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  9. Snorky says:
    30 June 2015 at 9:35 am

    The antique civet, is that oil from an actual civet? A cache of it had been found somewhere, or something?

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    • Angela says:
      30 June 2015 at 10:12 am

      My guess is that it is. I know Aftel buys antique materials from all over.

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      • Snorky says:
        30 June 2015 at 11:11 am

        Interesting, I wonder if it antique civet is worth a lot? I believe it’s legal to take civet oils from civets these days unlike, ivory for example.

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        • meredifay says:
          30 June 2015 at 12:45 pm

          Well, it’s aged, for one thing…

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        • Angela says:
          30 June 2015 at 8:30 pm

          It looks like Mandy answered your question below!

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  10. Mandy Aftel says:
    30 June 2015 at 5:19 pm

    Thank you so much Angela for this amazing review of my Bergamoss solid perfume! I am so appreciative of your kind attention and thoughtful writing, and grateful that you mentioned the cost and longevity and sillage. I would hate for someone to buy one of my solid perfumes and not know that and be disappointed. Because the solid perfumes come in an antique or sterling silver case, when you buy one the first time with the case it is quite expensive. Then once you have one of our cases the refills of any of my perfumes cost much less — I love to see the cases come back to me well-loved and ready to be cleaned, polished, and refilled. The antique civet I have is something I bought over twenty years ago from an old retired perfumer’s collection of essences. I have also gotten samples of what is reputed to be sustainable civet from Thailand. Thanks again to you, and special thanks to Robin, and thanks everyone for their nice comments — I will check back later to see if anyone has more questions for me.
    Mandy

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    • Angela says:
      30 June 2015 at 8:30 pm

      Thanks, Mandy, for checking in!

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