Santa Monica, California-based Fiele Fragrances offers five perfumes; I'm reviewing three today (I've not had the chance to sniff Viola and Myrrha). What I immediately liked about these perfumes was their earthy vibe; their ingredients smell natural and none of the perfumes is dull or "basic" as is often the case with tightly focused natural/organic1 lines (where, when you've smelled one cedar or juniper or patchouli scent, you've smelled 'em all).
Juniper Leaf/Berry (Nepal), Juniper Berry CO2 Select Extract (India), Virginia Cedarwood (USA), Myrrh CO2 Select Extract (Somalia), Organic Fir Needles (Bulgaria), Organic Ylang Ylang (Madagascar), Bergamot (Italy), Pink Peppercorn (USA)
Juniperus opens with lovely cedar, juniper leaf, fir and myrrh (in a well-blended, semi-sweet accord). Juniperus' juniper leaf note starts off sticky, but becomes dry in mid-development where its scent reminds me of juniper smudge bundles. An old 19th century-era graveyard near my childhood home was planted with junipers, and the scent of juniper always reminds me of that quiet, contemplative spot where I would ride my bike in warm weather...and read and draw and nap for hours (graveyards — in daytime — calm me down and never upset me). Ylang ylang adds a floral accent to the proceedings, but never overtakes the juniper/cedar.
Juniperus is an excellent, woody/resinous perfume (I find it addictive); like others in the Fiele Fragrance line, it has good sillage and lasts most of the day.
Patchouli (Indonesia), Vanilla Absolute (Madagascar), Vanilla Bourbon CO2 Total Extract (India), Tonka Bean Absolute (Brazil), Virginia Cedarwood (USA), Cocao Absolute (France), Organic Ylang Ylang (Madagascar), Pink Peppercorn (USA), Bergamot (Italy)
Pogostemon goes on smelling like patchouli fudge (this patchouli is buoyant/alcoholic, neither "oily/hippie" nor "mainstream-meh" in character). As I smelled tonka bean and vanilla blending with high-proof patchouli (creating an almost powdery and sweet aroma), I thought Pogostemon was headed to classic amber territory, but it veered off course, into more rough terrain, as pepper, bitter cocoa and ylang ylang joined in. As Pogostemon develops further, its patchouli becomes a tad bitter, too, until a milky, cocoa-infused amber accord appears. To me, ylang ylang is most noticeable in Pogostemon's base, where it gives the amber accord an edge.
Though I hated Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 when I smelled it in 2005 (was its release really so long ago?), I'm wondering if I should try it again, since I now enjoy patchouli, cocoa powder, woods and flowers in a perfume...I certainly enjoy Pogostemon.
Cedarwood (Himalayas), Virginia Cedarwood (USA), Organic Atlas Cedarwood (Morocco), Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute (India), Petitgrain (Corsica), Wild Orange (Dominican Republic), Pink Peppercorn (USA)
Cedrus smells of cedar spiked with jasmine and orange (the head notes also briefly highlight petitgrain). Cedrus smells like an intense Eau de Cologne — accent on woods instead of citrus (and if my cup didn't runneth over with Eaux de Cologne, this fragrance would be in heavy rotation at my house this summer). If you want an Eau de Cologne with muscle...try Cedrus.
Fiele Fragrances Juniperus, Pogostemon and Cedrus Eaux de toilette are $85 each for 50 ml; Fiele also offers a $20 sample pack containing all five of its fragrances (1.5 ml each). The line can be found at Ron Robinson or at the brand's website.
1. The Fiele line puts an "emphasis on superior quality natural ingredients" but it is not clear if the scents are 100% natural.