Santa Monica, California-based Fiele Fragrances offers five perfumes; I'm reviewing three today (I've not had the chance to sniff Viola and Myrrha). What I immediately liked about these perfumes was their earthy vibe; their ingredients smell natural and none of the perfumes is dull or "basic" as is often the case with tightly focused natural/organic1 lines (where, when you've smelled one cedar or juniper or patchouli scent, you've smelled 'em all).
Juniperus
Juniper Leaf/Berry (Nepal), Juniper Berry CO2 Select Extract (India), Virginia Cedarwood (USA), Myrrh CO2 Select Extract (Somalia), Organic Fir Needles (Bulgaria), Organic Ylang Ylang (Madagascar), Bergamot (Italy), Pink Peppercorn (USA)
Juniperus opens with lovely cedar, juniper leaf, fir and myrrh (in a well-blended, semi-sweet accord). Juniperus' juniper leaf note starts off sticky, but becomes dry in mid-development where its scent reminds me of juniper smudge bundles. An old 19th century-era graveyard near my childhood home was planted with junipers, and the scent of juniper always reminds me of that quiet, contemplative spot where I would ride my bike in warm weather...and read and draw and nap for hours (graveyards — in daytime — calm me down and never upset me). Ylang ylang adds a floral accent to the proceedings, but never overtakes the juniper/cedar.
Juniperus is an excellent, woody/resinous perfume (I find it addictive); like others in the Fiele Fragrance line, it has good sillage and lasts most of the day.
Pogostemon
Patchouli (Indonesia), Vanilla Absolute (Madagascar), Vanilla Bourbon CO2 Total Extract (India), Tonka Bean Absolute (Brazil), Virginia Cedarwood (USA), Cocao Absolute (France), Organic Ylang Ylang (Madagascar), Pink Peppercorn (USA), Bergamot (Italy)
Pogostemon goes on smelling like patchouli fudge (this patchouli is buoyant/alcoholic, neither "oily/hippie" nor "mainstream-meh" in character). As I smelled tonka bean and vanilla blending with high-proof patchouli (creating an almost powdery and sweet aroma), I thought Pogostemon was headed to classic amber territory, but it veered off course, into more rough terrain, as pepper, bitter cocoa and ylang ylang joined in. As Pogostemon develops further, its patchouli becomes a tad bitter, too, until a milky, cocoa-infused amber accord appears. To me, ylang ylang is most noticeable in Pogostemon's base, where it gives the amber accord an edge.
Though I hated Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 when I smelled it in 2005 (was its release really so long ago?), I'm wondering if I should try it again, since I now enjoy patchouli, cocoa powder, woods and flowers in a perfume...I certainly enjoy Pogostemon.
Cedrus
Cedarwood (Himalayas), Virginia Cedarwood (USA), Organic Atlas Cedarwood (Morocco), Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute (India), Petitgrain (Corsica), Wild Orange (Dominican Republic), Pink Peppercorn (USA)
Cedrus smells of cedar spiked with jasmine and orange (the head notes also briefly highlight petitgrain). Cedrus smells like an intense Eau de Cologne — accent on woods instead of citrus (and if my cup didn't runneth over with Eaux de Cologne, this fragrance would be in heavy rotation at my house this summer). If you want an Eau de Cologne with muscle...try Cedrus.
Fiele Fragrances Juniperus, Pogostemon and Cedrus Eaux de toilette are $85 each for 50 ml; Fiele also offers a $20 sample pack containing all five of its fragrances (1.5 ml each). The line can be found at Ron Robinson or at the brand's website.
1. The Fiele line puts an "emphasis on superior quality natural ingredients" but it is not clear if the scents are 100% natural.
I’d like to smell Pogostemon,first and foremost because I love the name sooooo much!Lol!
johanob: yes, people should use that term instead of “patchouli”…for variety’s sake!
These sound (and look!) good and Viola is also tempting.
By the way, after reading your reviews I went and tried the Carvens. Both are really nice and I think your take on Pour Homme is one of the most spot-on reviews I have read in a long time.
Thanks, Annikky! And Viola IS tempting…hope to sniff it soon…found another place in town that stocks the line.
I was delighted by these as well. I thought they had the sophistication of Mandy Aftel’s fragrances, but were presented more accessibly in price as well as content. My favorites were Cedrus (which really surprised me) and Myrrha, but I enjoyed all five of them.
Oakland Fresca: oh, good…I’m looking forward to smelling Myrrha.
These fragrances far surpass any Aftelier fragrance and they are much more affordable!
Can’t wait to try the juniper. Hubby loves it when I smell vaguely of gin.
Any ideas on how to pronounce the name of the line? Is it Fee-ay-lay? Feely? Fee-ell?
Elamo…sorry, looked everywhere and even tried calling the company; no luck!
The Cedrus sounds wonderful, though that is A LOT of cedar. I love cedar, it’s one of my favorite notes, but I’m a little wary of too much ever since my husband told me the Santal Massoia I was wearing smelled like a hamster cage 🙁
Annawilde, but smelling of cedar chips is great! Just banish the hamster reference and take your hubby to an evergreen woods for a hike. Next time: ‘Darling, you smell like an enchanted forest!
I don’t see anything wrong with smelling like a CLEAN hamster cage 🙂
kindcrow: agree!
Thanks to chocolatemarzipan’s SOTD comments for making me curious about the line. You made them sound even more irresistible!
I bought 3 sample sets intending to give one set away to a dear NSTer (and just waiting for her email) and keep the other 2 for myself to empty them into atomizers. To my surprise, the samples were actually in atomizers already so I am oh so ready to start sampling!
hajusuuri: enjoy! Do “come back” and comment on the violet and myrrh ones!
Oh dear…..sorry to make you part with your money, hajusuuri! But honestly, I ADORED ADORED ADORED each and every one of these scents and if I had money to burn I would have bought full bottles of every single one!
Graveyards/cemeteries are popular with birdwatchers. They often have plenty of trees, and therefore provide different habitats from their surroundings.
I’d like to try Viola.
kindcrow: Yep…now I have to get my hands on the two I didn’t smell…thankfully there’s a local store that stocks them here.
These all sound really appealing yo me. I also am enjoying notes I used to write off automatically(like cocoa and vanilla) but that was before I began mass sampling and realize it’s not just about notes but about balance and blending and quality of materials as well. (I very recently added Borneo 1834 to my sample wishlist so now I’m even more curious).
Elisa: I know…Borneo 1834 gave me a “stomach ache” ten years ago…now my tastes have changed radically I’m sure with another decade of perfume sniffing under my belt.
These sound amazing, Kevin. Thank you for introducing me to this line! They sound complex and intriguing.
I am on the fence regarding Borneo. I think it’s in the “maybe” pile.
I absolutely adore the scents of fir, birch and spruce. I use the essential oils in my morning shower every day. Have you tried MCMC’s Hunter? To me, it is the innocent scent of young lovers in flannel shirts jostling like warm puppies on their first Christmas Eve …
Holly: You’re welcome! I’ll try the Hunter.
Kevin…great review!
I spent two weeks living in these scents….I put my sample set aside as I plan on revisiting all in the winter before I commit to a full bottle.
chocolatemarzipan: tell us which one you end up choosing….
So luckily I have 2 sample sets. Unluckily for my wallet, I tend to overindulge myself and I am afraid, very afraid, that I will love most if not all of these and end up having to buy a FB of every single one. Sigh…