Yes, we're still doing the Monday Mail...but intermittently. If you've never participated, it's simple: read Connie's story, chime in with your recommendations! And if you'd like to be the subject of a Monday Mail post, see here.
Connie has been seriously interested in perfume for about three years. Her first love was Miller Harris L'Air de Rien — she still loves its horse stable, nostalgia, gourmandy, skanky beauty. Today, she's not looking for anything specific, just new perfume loves that she hasn't discovered yet. She leans towards less casual, more adventurous fragrances; her budget is loose but she isn't thinking JAR, Roja Dove or Xerjoff. Here is what we know about Connie:
She's in her late teens.
Connie's interests include reading, films, ballroom dance and horseback riding.
She also loves watching the ballet, going on adventures and spending time with friends and family.
Connie's favorite genres are ambers, patchoulis, animalics and gourmands, so her collection has almost no spring-summer specific scents. In addition to L'Air de Rien, she loves the vintage Guerlains, Christian Dior Mitzah, a number of the Chanel and Dior exclusives, Bal a Versailles, Frederic Malle everything, Parfums de Nicolaï Le Temps d'Une Fête, Cuir de Lancôme, and a number of others. Her favorite indie brands are Olympic Orchids, Smell Bent, and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (she'd love to hear people's favorites from DSH). She does like big florals, but they're not very well represented in her collection.
Perfumes that Connie has recently sampled and enjoyed include Amouage Jubilation 25, Hiram Green Moon Bloom, Tableau de Parfums Loretta, Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit & Muscs Koublaï Khan, Lubin Akkad, Oriza L Legrand Jardins d'Armide and Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin.
Connie dislikes vetiver, which seems to swamp everything else on her skin. Other dislikes: salt notes, aquatics and melon.
Perfumes that haven't worked so well for Connie include Ramon Monegal (a weird functional scent shampoo thing happens), Imaginary Authors (other than Memoirs of a Trespasser), Serge Lutens Chergui, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, Diptyque Volutes (honey notes too waxy?), Sonoma Scent Studio Yin and Ylang (ylang is a bit difficult for her sometimes, but she love Annick Goutal Songes), Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli (too noir), and many of the classic aldehydic florals like Lanvin Arpege, Jean Patou Joy, etc (though she loves Piguet Baghari and Chanel No. 22), and harsher leathers like Histoires de Parfums 1740 (beef jerky?).
What say you?
Note: top image is pink post [cropped] by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
Sounds like Connie’s doing just fine on her own! For a scent that evokes the ballet, how about Penhaligon’s Iris Prima (admittedly not as bold as some of her likes). My preferred DSH scent is the smoky chypre-ish Le Smoking.
I was thinking the same thing!!
Onto the list they go! I’ve been curious about both of these for a little while- thanks for reminding me. I wonder about the performance I’ll get out of both though, I feel like I remember hearing that they’re pretty shy. 🙂
I like L’Air de Rien too. The first thing I thought of reading your list of favorite genres is Parfumerie Generale’s L’Ombre Fauve (amber, musk, woods, incense, and patchouli). Not nearly as skanky as L’AdR but a bit similar.
Oh, that’s the fur one, isn’t it!? I must try that.
If I’m reading this right you’re looking for more florals or lighter scents since you’ve got the darker end of the spectrum squared away. A few to try:
Rien (from Etat Libre d’Orange): aldehydes and leather, beautiful and unusual and if worn lightly could be a year-round scent
DSH has some great florals — try her Tubereuse and the YSL collection (I especially love the one based on Paris, La Vie en Rose)
Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Morocain seems right up your alley and I think it works well in summer
Lush Lust (fun, slightly trashy version of Songes)
Going to correct your last suggestion because I know you meant Lush Lust, although Lust Lust would be a great name…
Ha, thank you Robin! Lust Squared?
LUSH Lust is certainly Lust squared 😛 I really like it but it’s a bit too campy for me to feel comfortable. The DSHs look lovely and are going on the sample list.
L’AdDM is very nice but a bit to dry/savory on me. Love it on others though.
I’ve been a bit scared that the Rien will be too raw on me, I don’t do well with bitter or charred leathers. Do you know if it has the dreaded beef jerky smell?
Sorry for the late response but no, it doesn’t!
First off I have to say the young Connie and I could be scent twins, we are certainly “interest” twins! I would offer up SL Daum Blonde for that light leather smell she might like. And since that might be out of her price range I would also say a couple from Sage Machado. (Check Robins perfume houses below) I wear both Topaz and Onyx. Both are rich heady vanilla based frags that really linger. They are very reasonably priced and in rollerball form, a little goes a long way. Enjoy seeing Monday Mail again.
I agree that Daim Blond is with worth a sniff for Connie, especially because I believe it would be most wearable in the warmer months! Hermes Kelly Caleche EDP is another sheer, summer-ready leathery perfume.
I totally agree, Daim Blonde is one of the rare scents I wear year round.
Thanks for the suggestions! Always nice to be reunited with a long lost scent twin! I’ll have to look up Sage Machado, I haven’t heard of them before.
Daim Blond and I have a funny relationship. I keep testing it and not quite getting it, but I can’t stop because I inevitably end up thinking about it again.
Yeah! I love The Monday Mail! It’s really the only reason I’ve ever enjoyed Mondays.
Connie, I feel strange making recommendations to you. You are far more advanced on your scented path than I am on mine.
Anyway, have you ever tried the original Estée Lauder Private Collection? It’s a green floral, great for spring and summer adventures. I don’t see aldehydes listed in the notes, but it does have that classic EL punch. There is also a newer Private Collection that I think is called Amber Ylang Ylang. It has a more modern, clean feel. Maybe it is a ylang that will work for you since it has the amber you love so much.
Also, since I see the recommendation above for Daim Blond, I have to suggest you check out Bottega Veneta. They’re quite similar to me, Daim Blond is just a little more fruity.
Good luck!
Hi Lucy!
I do like the Amber Ylang Ylang (the original Private Collection was a bit bitter for me), but the amber was lovely and creamy. Kind of like polished enamel. Not sure I would purchase it, but I’d definitely wear it if some fell into my life.
Weirdly, the Bottega Veneta doesn’t do anything for me at all- literally. I can’t smell it.
In her late teens and she loves, ‘ the vintage Guerlains, Christian Dior Mitzah, a number of the Chanel and Dior exclusives, Bal a Versailles, Frederic Malle everything, Parfums de Nicolaï Le Temps d’Une Fête, Cuir de Lancôme, and a number of others. Her favorite indie brands are Olympic Orchids, Smell Bent, and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (she’d love to hear people’s favorites from DSH). She does like big florals, but they’re not very well represented in her collection.’
All I can say is Wow!
I was thinking the exact same thing. And that there is hope yet that a love for classic fragrance will not be lost with future generations.
Haha, thank you! I started in high school and got my Mom into it too. I used to sample during Calculus and everyone in the class would comment with their opinions on whatever it was I was trying.
I’m in Boston, so a fair amount of sampling opportunities, but most everything else comes from doing sample swaps. We have a very generous perfumista community.
Connie, if you live in Boston you might want to check out indie line Neil Morris Fragrances. (Note that you will need to make an appointment, rather than just stopping by.) I am not personally familiar with the line–I don’t live in Boston and like to check things out in person–but it has gotten some very positive responses from people whose opinions I value.
INeKE would be a great house to try; my favorites include Field Notes From Paris (a sort of foody-leather bound book scent), Chemical Bonding (a gorgeous juicy citrus-peony cocktail perfect for Spring-Summer), Hothouse Flower (beautiful big white floral), Briar Rose (soliflore) and Sweet William (softly spicy carnation).
Hi rivercitylizzy, thanks for the recommendations. Ineke as a house doesn’t really work for me, there’s always something weirdly synthetic and harsh about them to my nose (might just be my skin).
In addition to liking adventurous fragrances, Connie also seems to have a love of great classic-style perfumes. I’d suggest Parfums Delrae and Divine as houses worth exploring to find a great floral.
Also, Prima T by Bruno Acampora is a deep, rich, gorgeous floral, and while I wouldn’t call it adventurous, it certainly isn’t wimpy!
Fifi Chachnil is a great amber, and Agent Provacatuer has some fun things to sample.
And do look for some older Carons!
I second checking out the Carons; maybe En Avion, Tabac Blond and Acaciosa would be good ones with which to start out.
Hi JolieFleurs! I definitely need to try more from DelRae and Divine- I just got to test Amoureuse by DelRae recently and it was soooo beautiful.
Prima T and Fifi Chachnil definitely sound like things I would like to try, and I should look into the Carons. I was sent a sample of vintage Nuit de Noel recently, amazing stuff.
I’m also an oriental lover branching out into florals, so I’m just going to list a few things I like. DSH Ma Plus Belle is a beautiful wisteria/linden floral with just a little edge to it. Chanel 31 Rue Cambon is just gorgeous, and I think a good starter chypre. Bottega Veneta Eau Legere is light enough for warmer weather, with a noticeable but not heavy leather note. Jour d’Hermes is a well-blended floral whose notes didn’t sound very appealing to me (rose AND grapefruit? Too sour!), but it turned out to be both substantial enough for my tastes and perfectly suited to hot weather. I wore it more than anything else last summer. And as a random pick, Jo Malone Blackberry and Bay: not too sweet, more interesting and longer-lasting than most of the other JMs I’ve tried.
We could be scent twins, Laurels! I love DSH Ma Plus Belle. I need to dig out my sample, maybe when it gets a bit warmer. 31 Rue Cambon is a love of mine as well. I just drained my sample actually. The Bottega Venetas don’t work for me (mentioned above that I can’t smell them). Jour d’Hermes is very pretty, but ultimately not me. I remember liking Blackberry and Bay, I’ll need to test it more. Thanks!
I’d say try Ormond Woman, Histoire de Parfum Ambre 114, and Eau d’Hermes
and Dzing!!
I do like those! Especially Dzing! at the moment. And except L’Eau d’Hermes. I usually do alright with cumin, but that one just swamps me. 😉
Wow, sounds like she’s ballin’ out of control already! I might suggest L’Artisan’s Dzing! or Hermes Ambre Narguile.
‘Ballin’ out of control’ is a good way to describe it. And I love both of those. 🙂
I would suggest Ormonde Woman…or better yet, get the discover set!
Also would recommend Keiko Mercheri Genie de Bois and the d/c Penahligon’s…I canNOT remember the name! I think they all have a woody vibe that translates to “horsey” to me, with a grassy, hay scent…
Amaranthine!!!
I have a travel spray of Ormonde Woman, it’s my favorite from the line, with Tolu. Genie de Bois is going on my ‘to try’ list. Sad to hear that Amaranthine has been discontinued, that’s one I’ve been looking to try. Thanks, Elise!
DSH Pandora is a gorgeous perfume that smells very vintage. You might also try Jitterbug and Vert Pour Madame.
Onto the list they go!
Sounds like it’s time to play with some niche discovery sets. The previously mentioned OJ line has lots of fun things to consider–Woman, Ta’if and Orris Noir have the most oomph to my nose, but there are some fascinating lighter scents, if Connie’s trying to expand in that direction.
I also think playing with Tauer’s might be due–on the lighter(-ish) side, I can completely live in Zeta for weeks at a time, and I agree with the previous suggestion of L’air du Desert Moracain. Une Rose Chypree also might hit some of the traditional powerhouse chords but in a new and fun way.
Finally, I wonder if some of SSS’s scents might be due for further research–first to come to mind as a possible real winner is Nostalgie–a gorgeous, heady rose-aldehyde bomb.
Enjoy playing!
I second (or third?) all of these! Marjorie Rose basically read my mind, especially the Tauers and SSS (I would recommend Sienna Musk and Joie Ensoleille, but I really love Laurie’s ambery winter appropriate perfumes as well).
I will also add my vote for Field Notes in Paris, and perhaps Aedes de Venustas for interesting, “lighter” scents.
I love discovery sets! My Mom got me the OJ one a year or two ago- and characteristically, I wasn’t very interested in the lighter ones. It may be time to retry a few of those. 😉
Zeta is huge on me, huger than I’m comfortable with, but it certainly is gorgeous. I haven’t had a huge amount of luck with Tauer- the Tauerade isn’t my favorite- but I do enjoy Noontide Petals and Reverie au Jardin especially. And I really like Loretta for Tableau des Parfums.
The aldehydes in Nostalgie are a bit dense for me, but I love Incense Pure, Tabac Aurea, and the two violets. Must try Fig Tree, I think. Thanks!
I would suggest Parfums Del Rae Wit, Puredistance Opardu, Stephen Jones Wisteria Hysteria, Tauer Reverie Au Jardin, Aftelier Cuir Gardenia.
Hi hajusuuri!
I really want to try Wit, Opardu, and Cuir Gardenia. I haven’t tried anything from Aftelier before. Wisteria Hysteria is nice but not my favorite, but Reverie au Jardin is very pretty.
I’d like to suggest Parfumerie Generale’s Arabian Horse.
That looks lovely, I’ll have to hunt up a sample. Thanks Holly!