A repeat of a poll we did in 2010, with a new twist.
1. Choose one (really! only one!) fragrance that you don't think gets enough attention, and tell us why you think it's so special.
2. Choose one (really! only one!) fragrance that you don't think is special enough to warrant all the attention it gets.
Note: top image is White Pumpkins 9.20 [cropped] by alana sise at flickr; some rights reserved.
In terms of sales figures at least:
Neglected: No. 5 Eau Première. A gorgeously uplifting take on the original, as smooth and bubbly as a glass of champagne.
Overrated: Coco Mademoiselle. Loud, obnoxious, grating, and showing its age to boot. Probably doesn’t help that it’s everywhere. Eau Première really should be the bestseller, but CM just won’t go away.
I wonder if 5 EP would be a bigger seller if they’d left the “5” out of the name? Or if it needs a more exciting flanker name than Eau Première?
“Chanel No. 5 Very Sexy Noir”…
LOL — that might have worked!
I just wonder if many non-5-fans never tried it, and might have liked it…
Same problem with Shalimar Parfum Initial. Still, unlike Guerlain, Chanel at least seem to have enough faith in Eau Première to upgrade it to the classic square bottle.
/raises hand/ I even have a sample but I’ve never gotten around to it, for exactly the reason you mention…
Dying laughing 🙂 But then, maybe today’s Marilyn Monroe is a Victoria’s Secret Angel!
Bleu pour Femme? :-/
Oy, it’s getting positively nihilistic around here today! 😉
}:-)
I’m not sure about the perfume that doesn’t get enough attention but in my opinion the fragrances that are overrated are Creed offerings. There’s so much fuss about the brand, serial numbers and batches on different forums that it’s gotten really annoying…
From a different topic pool – what do you guys think about the recent news of Estee Lauder concern buying Le Labo? Do you think that Le Labos will become cheaper or easier to get now?
SotD is Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir.
I sure hope the EL ownership of Le Labo makes them easier to get, without the silly city-only exclusivity. Also, am I right in thinking “mix it fresh” ritual at Le Labo counters has no scientific basis whatsoever?
Yes, those uber-expensive City Exclusives… You know, Le Labo is mostly synthetic I think so mixing it fresh doesn’t makes these fragrances better…
I just don’t get Le Labo. I ordered the city exclusives sample pack and developed, at best, a moderate liking for a couple of them. The others I have tried strike me the same way. Too abstract. If they were cheap, I would go for one or two.
My favorite is Iris 39. I once tried Tokyo Exclusive, Gaiac something. It didn’t last 3 hours on me…
Mix it fresh perfume doesn’t really make sense to me either. I’ve always thought of perfume as something that should be aged. I also wonder about quality control and consistency with their business model. Small batches do not leave much room for error.
I agree with you, Jonas. Perfume does improve with a bit of age. Mix it fresh, i.e. Add the Alcohol, simply means the bottles are more likely to leak – I speak from experience – give me a proper factory seal any day.
Frederic Malle says they age their perfumes, each a different length of time. I think Portrait of a Lady was around 6 mos, which Malle said was part of the reason it has a higher cost.
I think I’m remembering that correctly.
Interesting! I wonder what that does to the fragrances? Softens top notes or something?
Just to be clear, they are not mixing fresh perfume each time…as I understood it, they’re just adding the alcohol at the last moment. So these are not “small batch” perfumes, and the perfume itself could have been “aged” for however long or short a time (the customer has no way of knowing). Adding the alcohol at the last moment, so far as I know, has no added benefit whatsoever.
Okay, so it’s basically like fountain pop? Thanks for clearing that up. It still feels like the adult equivalent of build a bear workshop though.
One I never see ANYONE mention that I think is gorgeous is E. Coudray Jacinthe et Rose.
Just to be contrarian (sorry guys!) I’ll say Ormonde Jayne Woman strikes me as a hair overrated. I like it, I just don’t think it’s five stars.
I agree completely about OJ Woman.
Quite.
It zips through the coniferous and violet thing in about ten minutes on me, and stays sweet (boring) amber for the next four hours. Dull.
It’s the one OJ that I love so I belong in the 5 star camp! Sorry.
I was actually totally wowed when I first smelled it! But I’ve had a decant for years and I never reach for it. Go figure.
I really like OJ Woman too..
They OJs would be so much better if they weren’t all overdosed with Iso E Super. They start out interesting, but soon they are basically Iso E Super.
Totally agree. I wore OJ Woman the other day and enjoyed the first hour. The last 8 hours were Iso E Super that sticks like glue. I was so ready to move on. I love the opening, though. If it would only stay that way!
Ya’ll stop picking on Ormonde Jayne, LOL!
(but I love Iso E Super, admittedly. but do not love Ormonde Jayne Woman)
Coincidentally, I just noticed that Luckyscent lists Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 – which is straight-up Iso E Super – as their #1 best seller!
Nozknoz, I think part of its popularity is the lore that it smells different on/to everyone, which is probably somewhat overstated.
You just killed my lemming. My wallet thanks you.
Is that what it is? I loved almost all of the OJs at first, but they seem to all devolve to the same scent (except for Osmanthus, of course) … I thought it was just me, and haven’t reached for any of them in a long time.
Even though I love Iso E Super (as in “paid the full price for Molecule 01”) and enjoy many of OJ’s perfumes (Ta’if is one of my all-time top 5, I think), I started getting tired of their use of this ingredient. Come-on! There are so many other nice chemicals, you do not have to drown all your compositions in this one. Especially when we’re talking about more expensive Four Corners line.
I’ve been thinking about ordering the Ormonde Jayne Discovery Set, but a voice in my brain says, “Hold on, is it all a bit overrated?”
If anyone has an opinion on the 12 OJ scents or their feelings about the OJ Discovery Set I would love to hear more. How many do you like? How many do you love? Did anything from OJ make you swoon? 🙂
Tiffanie, the Discovery Set is a work of art. The packaging is exquisite, and I think the price is good for what you get. I think if you have never sampled any of the OJ scents, you should start off with a sample or two and see how you get on with Iso E Super. I blind bought the set without previous sampling and I had never heard of Iso E Super. Once I sampled, I understood and unfortunately it doesn’t work for me. Here’s a link that may be helpful:
http://www.kafkaesqueblog.com/2013/04/01/perfumes-iso-e-super-antiseptic-horror-aphrodisiac-pheromone-or-nothingness/
That is a great idea. I’ll start with one or two samples. Thank you for that suggestions and for the link. I am sometimes overwhelmed (not in a good way) by certain fragrances, and I often wonder if a particular aromachemical might be responsible, Iso-E Super being one of many possibilities . . . thanks again!
You’re welcome! I hope that you find that you like the line, but if you don’t you’ll have saved some money for something else. 🙂
Hello there. Great information, thanks! Some of the perfumes in that list are among I own and love. Now I feel I’ve been kind of tricked all this time…..
I love Perles Lalique, for example…..
I remember I’ve got a sample of Molecule 01 that I’ve ordered due to my insatiable curiosity at that time but When I sniffed my hand I smelled nothing! I could not believe it and tried a couple of more times, but got the same result – nothing! :); not even a decent headache. 🙂
About the headache people have:
It is interesting that instead of IFRA-regulated reformulations that strangled the life out of our perfumes, they should ban this ISO E Super instead ( and let other natural materials back!) .
People live with lavender & oranges – oils – ( and whatever else IFRA has banned) for thousands of years…..
You’re welcome! Some people definitely can’t smell ISO, but perhaps in that case it acts as an ingredient that ties the fragrance together, like when umami is achieved in cooking. Since I can definitely detect it and have a negative response, it ends up overriding the fragrance rather than enhancing it. I have often thought of buying a sample of the Molecule 01 just to see if I can smell it on its own, or if it’s the effect of ISO within a fragrance that produces that effect.
As far as IFRA goes, it’s certainly disheartening. I’ve recently been reading quite a bit about the allergies that are on the rise, and there seems to be a correlation to the consumption of antibiotics that has been so prevalent over the last few decades. I think we’re in for a crazy ride when kids can go into shock from simply smelling peanuts.
So there are a few of us around who are unable to smell many of the J. Ormonde perfumes…. Perhaps it is the musk or something. Those of us who have this problem are able to smell Taif, Tolu, Woman and Orris Noir.
Merlin – thanks for that piece of info as I thought I was perhaps a bit strange as I really can hardly smell the florals. But the exact scents you mention I can smell.
I do think that Taiif and Tolu are beautiful though. But I don’t think that’s a brilliant hit rate out of the sample set.
Agree…it was a little disappointing for me too…
I have big love for several of the OJ scents. Woman was my first swoon–totally overwhelming and gorgeous! I very much want a bottle of Ta’if and I’m waiting for just the right deal to come around before I buy it.
(Or maybe Mr. Spicebomb could get it for my birthday coming up? . . . hmmmmm.)
In any case, I am fully in favor of the discovery set, as I think they are all very well-made and interesting, even if they aren’t all for me.
**My enabling two scents!
I’ve been wondering about the E. Coudrey line- whether they’re any good. They have nice bottles..
Coudray Nohiba. Smells like an expensive/lucky vintage discovery.
I’ve only tried one of them, but it’s a really good one.
I keep looking for the Jacinthe et Rose and not finding it, except as a blind $80 buy – a little out of my reach. But when I was in college I had a small bottle of Peach Rose Hyacinth shower gel from some little mall company, and I always seem to be in the market to recreate that smell. Sadly, nothing comes close.
Mals, drop me an email if you want me to send you a sample from my bottle!
Overlooked: Adam Levine for Her is the nicest of drugstore perfumes. It is a cozy, saffron-woody winter scent, and doesn’t cheap out on the dry down.
Overrated: Neela Vermeire – the one I had to scrub off. Not nearly worth the price; even the non-offensive ones were Meh.
I scrubbed Ashoka and immediately gave my decant away.
I was thinking Ashoka as well. It was a serious scrubber for me, and I gave my decant away as soon as I was able to. I really wanted to like it! However, I do love Bombay Bling. I think it’s a really great fragrance.
It’s interesting: I thought Ashoka was just OK the first time I tried it and was a little surprised by everybody’s praises for it. But recently I tried it again – almost a year later – and I loved it. Now I’m watching different FB groups to see if anybody sells their unwanted travel bottle or does a discovery set split.
Having said that, I still think the launch campaign created unrealistic expectations for this perfume.
I scrubbed this off too. Very disappointing.
I agree on the Adam Levine. I also get rose in the woodsy saffron-y blend. Nothing like the usual sugar pop celebuscents.
Agree too on Neela. I want to love any of the first three. Even splurged on the sample set. I don’t detect what others do. Oh well.
Overlooked: Theo Fennell Scent. Got 5 stars in The Guide, rarely mentioned on blogs etc. Is genius and long-lasting, and my favourite (only) weird rose.
Overrated: I just don’t swoon over the base of Guerlain like everyone else.
Theo Fennell Scent is so barely distributed…nobody can find it to fall in love with it!
Interesting, I thought it was discontinued, but a google search reveals it’s on Amazon.uk for GBP 41.50. Within the UK, delivery would be included in that price. To the U.S. is an additional GBP 18.00 for a total $99.47.
Yeah. My 75mls were a relative bargain, even, considering how high prices are for niche/designer/etc.
I wonder if that associated seller, PerfumeWorldUK, is a discounter?
I was looking at the Theo Fennell website. I’ll take one of these, please:
http://www.theofennell.com/collections-landing/keys-jewellery/18ct-white-yellow-gold-tsav-2-10-pave-sapp2-17ct-diam0-39-enchanted-pool-key.html
Underrated: gosh it’s late and I can’t think straight.. I’ll say Profumi del Forte Roma Imperiale, but I think the reason is just that not many people have tried it. Highly recommended!
Overrated: Elie Saab le parfum. Really? It’s just another sugar bomb to me.
I don’t love the Elie Saab either.
The Elie Saab EDT didn’t impress me. I like EDP and the EDP Intense even more. They smell like neroli put on an expensive dress and celebrated.
Profumi del Forte is one of the lines I wish I had sampled before I had gotten to the point of wishing there weren’t so many niche lines.
I find Elie Saab loud and unpleasant.
Ah, I will defend Elie Saab. After (admittedly) a rather assertive opening, it settles on my skin and becomes a gentle, honeyed presence for the rest of the day. I wear it only in summer as a perfect partner to a sunny day.
La Vie est Belle, now there’s a sugar bomb. And that ArmanI thing, Si, yikes!
I agree. That Armani Si doesn’t smell good to me. Yikes is right! Lol!
I loved the opening-to-heart portion of Elie Saab (the EdT original, I think it was), but the screechy patchouli stuff in the base just did me in.
Overlooked would be Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn. I do like slightly weird scents so I’m sure it isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but it is just so gorgeous and interesting, especially for a natural. I can never decide if it’s really simple or extremely complex but I always find it comfortable. I love the strange Bandaid-y animalic opening and fruit-leathery osmanthus. I know it gets really mixed reviews but I think more people should at least try it.
Overrated? I have to say Ambre Sultan. Don’t get me wrong, I love it and have a full bottle I wear fairly regularly. I would even say it would be my recommendation to someone who wants to know what an amber smells like, but it certainly isn’t the BEST amber and I think it overshadows some that are better.
What are some of your favorite ambers? I love Ambre Sultan, but love ambers in general so I’m always sniffing. I have some pure amber oil a friend got me in UAE. Bright yellow and just about bowls you over if you sniff straight from bottle. I love it, my husband only so-so, and my best friend was blunt and said “it smells like poop” LOL
I would probably love the poopy smelling amber oil too. My favorite amber is Ambre Russe (I may have mentioned that before 😉 ) but I also love Ambre Noir, Anubis, Barkhane, Ambra Aurea (going from memory, I LOVED this one and need to see if I still do), Dev IV. Some may technically be incense or orientals but they are all in the amber category to me.
…and I’m dying to try the yet to be released Amber Incense from SSS.
Oh goodness, I cannot wait for that to be available!
I agree, given that I love many ambers but not Ambre Sultan. I do love Ambre Russe, loccitaine’s Ambre, and Ambra Nobile…
I don’t like Ambre Sultan either and I love ambers and love SL. for me Ambre Sultan has an unpleasant Play-Doh note.
Gonna have to think on an under-appreciated scent, but my first thought for overrated is the Atelier Cologne line. I have yet to find one that keeps my interest for even 10 minutes. They start faint and then disappear–if I can’t smell it, I can’t get excited!
I do like a few of them (esp Sous Le Toit) but totally agree about overrated.
I agree with you my dear…you can find them everywhere..and they are not exceptional…
That line does not grab me, generally. I thought Rose Anonym was a nicely done rose oud, but I already have others that I like very much (Kilian Rose Oud and Amouage Homage Attar)
Rose Anonyme smells really good but it’s like the Diet Coke version of a “real” rose oud.
Hello there!
In my case I haven’t thought much about Rose Anonyme until on my way back from a day at the beach ( from Muskoka, ON) I’ve reached for my pouch, found a forgotten vial with RA and rubbed on my arm, out of boredom, I’d say. Then an amazing thing has happened: the fragrance came alive and so-o wonderfully ! Was it something my skin has absorbed being the whole day under the sun at the beach; don’t know…. it blended with the juice and voila! the magic went well into the night.
I loved it so much that I splurged on 30 ml recently during the sale at Beautyhabit!
So, you never know what you gonna love…..
I’m not a fan of the line.
I’ve only given a few cursory sprays, nothing special, but I find their schtick of Parfum strength colognes annoying. One or the other please.
Yes, perhaps that is part of the problem? If you’re gonna claim strength/concentration, I expect something with some presence.
It’s like conducting a 60-piece orchestra for a five-second jingle. You could, but you lose the beauty of both.
I like Vanilla Insensee (I keep a bottle in my purse so I must like it fairly well) and think Orange Sanguine is nice in the opening but I could live without them both. I haven’t tried any others that I loved but I havent sought them out either. The soaps are nice though.
I can imagine several of the scents making better soaps than they do perfumes.
There is something timid about the Ateliers I think. ‘Nicely done’ is about the most you can say about most of them. I suspect the appeal is for non-perfume people (with money to spend, clearly) who really just want smell-good fragrances unlikely to offend.
I SO agree. I admit I like Trefle Pur a lot because of that clover and the Ambre Nue is friendly in cold weather for weekend daytime wear and it grew on me, but the rest are SO timid. I bought the sample set and kept notes and a couple of them I couldn’t smell at all. I mean seriously, nothing. Expensive as cuss and nothing. I found the Sur le Toit had the most character of the remainder but it’s still a dilute Apres L’Ondee tryhard. The packaging though leaves me giddy with desire and I may upgrade Trefle Pur to my ‘leave open on screen in days before birthday/Christmas’ column just to get my sweaty paws on those leather stoppers and refillable travel cases. You could frankly sell me anything with the phrase ‘leather travel case’.
I guess I can agree to a certain extent. I am a fan of the Orange Sanguine. I love it because of the burst of fruit scent. The other ones on the line don’t last very long on me. So, I definitely understand how one could lose interest. If I weren’t so into orange-y fragrances, I probably would agree with you wholeheartedly. But to me, the Orange Sanguine is divine.
I often see people commenting on the lack of longevity for Atelier Cologne scents, but I think there must be some ingredient I can detect that makes them one of the most tenacious lines on my skin. I put on a few small drops from a sample of Orange Sanguine last week and could smell it all day (it did fade of course, but was still detectable close up). Same goes with Vanille Incensee- I have a small bottle and use one spray. I get nervous that I’m blowing people’s nostrils out but no one has ever said a thing about it. I’m convinced they must use an ingredient in the base that my nose has many extra receptors for 🙂
Vanilla Insensee lasts for days and is very strong to me. I suspect a notorious aromachemical that overwhelms me when used with florals, as VI is not something I can safely apply if I feel a headache coming on.
I find them long lasting too, Vanille Insensee and Gold Leather especially so.
Underrated: the original Fendi. When people think of 80s powerhouses, they name Poison, Coco, Paris, but I think Fendi beats them all in uniqueness and belongs among the legends. Overrated: Light Blue. I don’t exactly dislike it, but it is so popular among the non-perfumista world that I find it rather boring. I wish people would branch out.
Light Blue is an oddity – Chandler Burr loves it whilst Turin and Sanchez hate it. I agree with the latter; very screechy, hisses like an angry cat.
It’s odd – I admire Chandler Burr’s passion for perfume and what he has accomplished, but I rarely share his enthusiasm for specific perfumes.
I totally agree!
Ditto!
I like Fendi better than Coco et al too!
I often think Amouage Ciel is underrated, just because it’s a beautiful aquatic floral and people don’t go to Amouage for aquatic florals.
I don’t think I’m the person to judge what’s overrated, because there are so many things so many other perfumistas love that I dislike, sometimes greatly. Traversee du Bosphorus comes to mind.
It’s easier to pick a BRAND that’s overrated. But I suspect there would be slightly more agreement on that one. (Bond No. 9 anyone? 🙂
Yes to Bond No.9. I like a couple of them, but I feel like they’re more of a perfume status symbol (at least, to non-perfumistas) than anything.
Ditto Xerjoff IMO.. And Creed.
Xerjoff – for the price they should blow you away. I won’t even try them.
I love Xerjoff Elle and Richwood, but I’ve never found anything else in the line to wow me. And they keep coming out with them.
You might be right about Ciel: even though Amouage is one of the brands I love, I haven’t even tried this one yet. I wasn’t avoiding it on purpose but since there are no stores around that carry Amouage, all my samples of it were either bought (and for choosing what to buy I relied upon Perfumeland’s recommendations that neverincluded Ciel) or swapped (and I don’t know a single person who owns a bottle of this one) 🙂
1. I think Tom Ford’s Santal Blush doesn’t get the credit it deserves. Nothing out there now comes close to it.
2. Chanel No. 5 is overrated in my opinion. I know back in the day it was innovative and all, but there are so many other fragrances today that blow it out the water. It is outdated and something my grandmother’s wore.
Bless you for saying the unspeakable about No. 5. You’re my hero for the day. 🙂
I love parts of No. 5, but I can’t wear it. The aldehydes are sometimes just too much. Eau Premiere is the same for me.
But the rose-jasmine heart is beautiful. The dry down makes me breathe deep and smile.
Someone someday somewhere will make a fortune when they produce a No. 5 minus the spank! 😉
I almost said No.5 but thought it was too obvious. I love it, by the way, and wear it frequently. Gotta give them credit for great marketing.
“something my grandmother’s wore” – and why exactly this is a bad thing? ; -)
I do not like Chanel No 5 and could never wear it but I’m not sure that the category itself (“overrated”) can be applied to “household names.”
I don’t know where to start. These days there are thousands and thousands of perfumes that don’t even deserve to be sold in a Nicky Minaj bottle. If they sell even one bottle they are overrated. In this context, would seem churlish to draw attention to any perfume that others seem to enjoy from any line that seems to be at least making an effort. So I will forebear to name names.
What is truly underrated is simply perfume, by the EU, which is ruining the eighth art by assuming that perfume has zero benefit when it does the risk/benefit analysis that sets limits on essential ingredients like oakmoss. They might as well tear down the Eiffel Tower because it serves no essential function and is, therefore, a gigantic waste of energy. THE SHAME!
[Hey, you kids, get off my lawn!]
Oh so TRUE! It reminds me of the fact that once, a long time ago, education and learning was all about the JOY of learning. Now, most only want to learn what will make them money.
It breaks my heart how little we value education and real learning in this day and age.
Amen!
Yes, it’s heartbreaking and also very worrisome.
In fairness, education, especially secondary and higher education, also used to be an activity only accessible to the leisure class, who could afford to do it purely for its own sake. I have a hard time criticizing those who need to be concerned for their ability to support themselves and their families. Or even just to pay back the loans for that education, which in the U.S. are staggering! (Fear not though, I write you from inside the belly of the beast and I have no shortage of other aspects of contemporary education culture to criticize! )
I’m in the belly of the beast as well and it’s not a nice place to be- very dark in here…
True about education historically being for the well off and I certainly understand those who want to make enough money to pay off student loans and support a family.
What I find disconcerting is that the annual income is sometimes the driving factor behind the career choice. Maybe I’m a hopeless romantic, but I don’t think one should want to enter medicine for the primary purpose of making money. It seems to me the primary drive should be to better the human condition…
But I am digressing from perfume and will add I found a cheap thrill at TJ Maxx yesterday! Fancy Nights which I really enjoy for 9.99 for 3.4 oz. Yep, it’s industrial strength strong and only the teenie tiniest spritz is needed or you will head right into respiratory arrest, but I like it!
So dark, right? Sigh. Very glad at least you have a a good TJ Maxx find, that does make things a bit brighter! And now I’m curious to hear more about Fancy Nights–is there anything it reminds you of, by way of comparison?
CH, I am no good at describing fragrances. So I will describe her as if she were a woman…
Her hair is high and her clothes are tight. She swings her hips when she walks and snaps her gum when she talks. She has a 3 pack a day voice but doesn’t smoke. She’s bold and brash and has been around the block. She’s not subtle or refined and is always up for a good time. She isn’t unkind but if you cross her, she’ll knife you in the ribs. She wears short skirts without a slip but does like to sport a thong. If she considers you a friend, she’ll give you the shirt off her back, no mean feat since she never wears a bra. She loves to flirt, tease and play without regard to a man’s marital status. She does it honestly, right in front of the girlfriends and wives, who hate her guts because she has what they don’t. She doesn’t take herself seriously and the last thing she read was Cosmo. She’s harmless in small doses and a lot of fun for certain occasions. Its impossible not to like her unless you are jealous of her, then you want to strangle her.
Brilliant description – now I must try this perfume at least once!
I smelled Fancy on someone at work not knowing what it was and I boldly asked because I just had to know! Delish vanilla and so so cheap. I don’t recall trying Fancy Nights but I will look for it. Thanks for the reminder.
I can’t believe the costs and the levels of debt that people are graduating with these days. You are dealing with the most challenging issues. You deserve great perfume!
Noz, are you in the US? I can send some FN your way if you are…:)
Deva, thanks for your kind offer! I’m going to check the TJ Maxx near my usual Metro stop next week.
1. I think L’Artisan’s La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême is a lovely summer floral which doesn’t get the love it deserves. Perhaps I love it especially because it was the fragrance that opened the door to perfume passion for me. Oh, and most of the Oriza L. Legrand line: I adore Oeillet Louis XV, Chypre Mousse and Rélique d’Amour.
2.Overrated? La Vie est Belle is definitely overrated here in Spain, as is Miss Dior Chérie. I’m not wild about Chanel No 5 either, but I can understand how so many people love it.
La Chasse used to be very widely loved! I think it’s just forgotten in the now rather large L’Artisan line. Anyway, I love it too.
Oh, this is fun and could result in some indignation amongst the masses, especially when we are talking specific scents! So to avoid that, I will broaden the horizon a bit…
Highly Under-Rated and Unknown: The SSS line. I don’t like every specific individual perfume in the line because who could?? However, the entire line, which is extensive, is QUALITY QUALITY QUALITY and has something for everyone. Did I mention QUALITY? Plus, it’s affordable and the size options are fantastic! The general public really needs to hop on this bus, ASAP…
Highly Over-Rated: Anything that costs > $200 per 30ml! I mean, come ON! If we are talking a RARE VINTAGE perfume that is no longer in formulation, ok, I can go for that. But fragrances that are current formulations and in production costing over 200 buckaroos for a 30ml bottle is just ridiculous! That’s like paying $200+ dollars for a Dior eye cream that had absolutely no statistically measured efficacy! I guess I am just a Paula’s Choice kinda girl- affordable AND proven effective…
Just my two cents…Don’t think I can even buy a gumball with that any more =(
Seconding Paula’s Choice – I’m addicted to one of her toners.
Her line is the bomb-diggity! Over the past year, I have switched to all her products except cleanser. I use an oil cleanser and if she comes out with something along those lines, I will snap it up! Her 10% Weekly AHA is fantastic! No, I am not affiliated, just a fan of products that work and are affordable =)
Oh, I love Paula’s no-B.S. attitude and her ingredient dictionary and the fact that her stuff is unscented! Unfortunately, most of the stuff that I want to buy from her has propylene glycol or butylene glycol high up on the ingredient list, and my skin can’t handle them.
Heart began to sing after reading this and looking at the SSS woody incenses. Heart then broken because she doesn’t ship internationally. Now to obsess, brood and plot.
You might check Indiescents, a Luckyscent affiliate. They have some of the line.
Thank you. but alas no samples there. I’ll haunt the decants sites.
HEARTILY seconding Sonoma Scent Studio as an underrated line–though it does get some love here and there <3
Surrender to Chance carries a broad selection from SSS, including many of my favorites–Fig Tree, Jour Ensoleille, Champagne du Bois, Rose Volupte, Cocoa Sandalwood, and Spiced Citrus Vetiver. As mentioned, they are very well-crafted, have great sillage (though not overpowering) and longevity for days (literally, Fig Tree, Rose Volupte, and Jour Ensoleille have lasted through showers, clinging to my hair)!
Beck, so sorry! I forgot what a nightmare shipping is these days 🙁
Underrated Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier and especially Ambre Precieux
Overrated agree with Diva the exorbitant pricing like L’Incendiare, come on!
I agree! I think Uncle Serge needs to just get over himself!
Although I’v seen Ambre Precioux rated as a top amber… Did not do the trick for me but I can’t say why…
I agree completely–I was just about to post and mention this line myself. Their amber is the best and so is Santal Noble. I also own and love Fleur des Comores and Secret Datura (which I prefer in the EDP). I’d definitely put it up against other datura scents.
Olympic Orchids Dev 1 is terribly underrated. I layer this with Papillon Anubis and am the woodiest, smokiest badass on the entire eastern seaboard.
I must roll over on Uncle Serge, I am still not getting it….
Stealing your layering idea ;). Thanks!
Please join me in the wood and smoke badass club!
You know, I got samples of this and the others in the release and I sniffed ’em, spritzed ’em, gave them some skin time… And ended up confused 😕
They just didn’t strike me as a complimentary smell… I should give them another try. I completely forgot about them until I read this post.
I completely understand why these fragrances are confusing, no flowers, nothing to hang your hat on, so to speak. It is the absence of a recognizable perfume profile that makes me love them. They are loaded with foreign resins and wood smells and I often imagine I smell like an anointed Pharoah when I wear the Dev scents.
I’m not even trying l’Incendiaire because, yes, come on!
I feel like I just have not met the right Serge yet…….
Underrated? I don’t think I’ve seen one person wearing Dans tes Bras (Frederic Malle) since we’ve started our daily SotD threads. Probably the only Mslle I’d buy a full bottle of.
Overrated? I know I’ll have a target on my head for this, but I haven’t tried a Tauer that I liked. Vetiver Dance particular confounded me. I respect him immensely as an independent perfumer but I finally had to stop trying, around Zeta. That said, I keep hoping.
I would not describe Tauer as overrated – I do think his stuff is truly innovative – but it’s a style that just does not appeal to everyone. Reverie Au Jardin and Une Rose Chypree are my favorites but I find URC hard to wear. Vetiver Dance and Zeta I could hardly smell.
My all time favorite is a Tauer- but I will admit that the one I love deviates from his norm (IMO) and while I do like some others in his line, they are not “carefree” fragrances to wear.
I have a serious problem with the Tauerade, but I really like Andy Tauer’s interviews and the independent spirit that comes across. Wish I could love his fumes.
I’m in your camp, solanace! And the same is true (for me) for SSS frags. They just don’t work for me.
Ditto! I respect their philosophy and their craftmanship but the scents are not for me, sadly.
I’ve been a bit surprised by the SotD polls actually.. Over the 4-5 years I’ve been reading perfume blogs I’ve seen a lot of love (like, a LOT of love) for a number of perfumes over the years. Yet when it comes down to ‘what are you wearing?’ it’s usually new loves or classics. Where ARE all the Malles?
I’ve noticed that as well!
I’ve gone through about 14mls of Iris Poudre in the last two years, even with all my other perfume. I know that one gets called “overrated” a lot, especially with people suggesting that something or other smells just like it but for less money – but I love the drydown of it so much that nothing else will do.
Can I just say that most of the Serge Lutens line is overrated? Most of his offerings mostly do smell the same and I am little annoyed with the whole exclusives thing. I think that one can play with the whole Feminite du Bois and spice cabinet thing before it gets old fast.
It seems that Amouage Dia is underrated because there are a lot of people making it into the whole Diet Gold thing. I can see the similarities but Dia is different in a lot of ways.
Agree, Dia is beautiful in its own right. One could even say that it has a more recognizable signature than Gold (which I do love, too).
I love Serge Lutens, and to his credit, he was almost certainly in his end of the sandbox first. I personally love that I can have Arabie, El Attatine, Feminite du Bois, and Bois de Violette all at once where only one is maybe necessary, but that’s just how it is, isn’t it? 🙂
Serge’s latest $600 scent ain’t all that, can say that much.
Not a Serge fangirl myself. Although I *do* absolutely adore adore La Myrrhe, because there is nothing else like it (and what it is, is glorious). There are several I like, but by and large the line really does nothing for me.
I like and wear both Dia and Gold and agree that 1) they are very different and 2) Dia is underrated, probably because of the family relation to Gold.
Underrated:Chanel No.18.It’s probably the best Rose-Iris out there(IMHO),and sillage and longevity is unmatched on my skin!!
Overrated:Or rather overhyped:Tobacco Vanille.Vile sour vinegar,with drenched stale tobacco leaves on a thin slice of Fake Vanilla essence-that was what MY skin concluded.Apologies to the lovers of this johanob-corrupted skin concoction!!
Tobacco-Vanille is so powerful – hard to believe it varies on different skins! We need to try this one together sometime – purely in the interest of science! 😉
Thanks for reminding me of No. 18, which I keep meaning to try. I love 28 la Pausa and iris in general.
I rarely see the house of Caron mentioned here, so perhaps their perfumes are underrated? Fleurs de Rocaille was my first grown-up perfume bought on a shopping trip with my mom when I was eleven. Decades later, I wanted to revisit it and took a sniff of Fleur de Rocaille. Yep, they dropped the “s” off Fleurs and reformulated the juice. Sneaky devils! It smelled nothing like the original. I located a company, Parfumelle, that was the only place back then that carried vintage perfumes and bought some of the original stuff. I have not tried any of their recent offerings, but I love many of their vintage frags.
Overrated? Amouage. I wear perfume for myself, but it’s chastening to be consistently asked if I’m wearing patchouli or a headshop oil when I’m wearing Amouage. (Maybe looking like and being an aging hippie doesn’t help?)
Weren’t the Rocailles always two different perfumes? Someone will correct me if I’m wrong. I’m not a Caron expert. My impression of the brand in recent times is that it has suffered from poor re-formulations.
Yes, the Rocailles were always different perfumes.
Should add that Luckyscent currently has both for sale if you are looking for a bottle of the Fleurs, Holly.
Thanks! That’s so sweet of you. I’m fully loaded, and the Fleurs is pretty easy to find these days. I did look at Luckyscent, and I love the fact that they make it clear that these are two different perfumes.
Yes, they were two different perfumes, but the original was no longer available in the US in the nineties when the second one came out, which was marketed as being the same perfume. So if you asked for Fleurs de Rocaille, you were given Fleur de Rocaille and told that only the packaging was different. I was so disappointed at the time, and thought my memory of the scent was erroneous. So I was thrilled when I found out the story from the charming French fellow at Parfumelle who would call me when he had stock coming in. This was twenty years ago, and finding a fellow perfumista back then was a real delight.
Yes, it would have been! I was so happy when the Internet came along.
I love Caron fragrances, I wear Pour Un Homme and L’anarchiste frequently. I think what became of Bellodgia is quite distressing and many of their perfumes have suffered from reformulation. This has kept me from trying more of them.
Thanks for chiming in!
Yes, trashed reformulations. The only full bottle we own from Caron is Le Troisiemme Homme, which is a classic and both my husband and I wear it.
I have honestly not sought out any of the reformulated Carons. Guerlain and Dior have survived reformulating, and they continue to produce nice perfumes which draw attention to the lines. Patou has just recently introduced their Heritage Collection, and Kevin reviewed the reformulation of Chaldee as compared to the original. There are blogging fans of Caron, but to my recollection, the references are always regarding vintage.
Ha, ha – I never thought of Amouage as aging hippy perfumes – maybe that’s why I love them so much! Don’t let those squares bring you down!
Thanks, nozknoz! I appreciate your lighthearted comment. I never thought of them that way either. Imagine if Amouage was Spiritual Sky redux…
I agree the Caron thing is largely because they’ve ruined most of their reformulations. I have quite a few Carons, but I mostly wear the newer ones, and because Narcisse Noir and Nuit de Noel parfums aren’t everyday perfumes in my mind 😉
Underrated, or at least not mentioned often enough among perfumistas, is Laura Biagiotti’s Roma. An oriental but with the addition of citrus and blackcurrant over the top. The minty note in the opening works beautifully. Often compared to Dune, I find it sweeter and more feminine, elegant and relaxing. Stongish though, so be careful.
I suspect the brand’s distribution outside Europe may be patchy, but Roma can be had for peanuts online. I’ve heard that it is still widely used in Italy as a signature scent.
I agree about Roma- it’s a summer staple for me.
Me too. Wearing it today. 🙂
Underrated: Serge Lutens Arabie. Maybe I like to smell like a dirty souk, but I love, love, love Arabie!
Overrated: Guerlain Lys Soleia. Headache inducing sugar bomb. I even thought I hated lillies, but fortunately Shangai Lilly redeemed the note for me.
I first tried Lys Soleia in Singapore, and in the heat and humidity it was exactly a headache inducing sugar bomb, and I became scared of it. Then a year or so later I tried it in ‘normal’ weather and became just a normal pretty lily. Strange..
I live right in the tropic, so here you go… 🙂 This year’s cooler days seem to be over for good, I’m ‘afraid’ of the summer ahead, so my decant Lys Soleia will remain in its drawer for a while.
LOL, and for me Shanghai Lily is overrated – but that may just be that it smells bad on my skin!
Donna Karan Signiture doesn’t get enough attention, it’s unique and rich with a smoothed, subtle 80ties vibe and way more sexy than straight up ambers in my opinion.
Overrated: Tom Ford Black Orchid. It’s pleasant and fun but not great. And totally agree with Elisa about Ormond Jayne and johanob about Chanel 18.
A co-worker wears Tom Ford Black Orchid…a lot of it. I need to find a delicate way to steer her away from using too much and/or switch her perfume. Don’t get me wrong – I like Tom Ford Black Orchid…but all day every day at nuclear levels? No !
She should better save it for nights out…
I think Black Orchid is just super duper radiant – I smell it in public more than any other fragrance. People ALWAYS seem to be wearing too much, to the point where it seems like no amount could be small enough. I like it quite a bit – but I think I would like it better if it wasn’t always attacking me in public places!
I love Black Orchid, but a little dab will do! Maybe the body lotion for daytime?
Just a couple of days ago I received one of those fold apart scented advertisements in a fall catalog — it was Tom Ford, one side was Black Orchid, and the other side was “Velvet Orchid” which I guess is their new flanker for the original.
The Black Orchid is very heavy, dark, but intensely lovely, the kind I love for 7 minutes and then get a headache.
The Velvet Orchid was also sweet but not as overbearing, more effervescent, it may be the lighter ‘day’ version we’d be looking for.
Having the two on one card was nice — made comparison very easy. Now want to try the Velvet Orchid on my skin.
I am with you on both accounts :)! DK Signature is so lovely.
I am a HUGE DK Signature fan and I agree, it’s underrated and undermentioned!
Even though I do like Black Orchid, if to think, I agree that it gets a much more attention among perfumistas than it’s worth. Still like it.
Under-rated: Tokyo Milk Dark Tainted Love. Actually, the entire Tokyo Milk Dark line is under-hyped. They are cheap thrills and the bottles are nice with unexpected graphics and clean lines.
Over-rated: Clive Christian. Take your pick.
Tokyo Milk Dark Bulletproof has been on my list for years..
Love Bulletproof.
I am always tempted by the smoky one, whichever that one is.
I so agree about the Tokyo Milk Dark line. I have several, and while all were blind buys, I like them all.
I think Estee Lauder Cinnabar is underrated. People tend to forget to mention it when listing all of the legendary spicy fragrances, and it often gets compared to Opium, which is fair, but I think when not compared to anything it is fabulous in its own right. I think that La Vie est belle is overrated. It is always being pushed at me when I go to department stores, and many love it, but I find it to be an uninteresting overly-sugared fragrance, but that’s just me.
Will never bathe in the sugared musk of Le Vie.
Agree with Cinnabar. I find it almost unwearable in a good way. I never tag this phrase to anything as it’s overrated in its own right, but it smells like sex.
You are right about Cinnabar and all the Lauder’s, truth be told.
Love EL line! Definitely underrated!
Cinnabar was one of my first perfume loves, but it disappeared from Sweden in the late 80’s. I was almost offended when I fell down the fumie rabbit hole and discovered it has been available elsewhere all these years…
Overrated, Creed.
+1 Le Vie Est Belle, nope.
Not enough attention, Tuscany Per Donna, Estee Lauder…a special floriental sandalwood..in the same vein as Samsara.
I wish I’d tried Tuscany years ago when it was always at the counter. Haven’t seen it for many years now..
I just acquired a bottle and I really like it. I usually layer it with a little rose….
They still sell it but keep it behind the counter. I have a HUGE bottle because it’s only available in 100 ml to my knowledge.
Neglected: Mad&Len Patchouli Rose
Overrated: L’Artisan Parfumeur Séville à l’aube
I think the Seville hype was a bit crazy, although I guess that’s just advertising these days.. OTOH- I Love the fragrance, it’s one of my favourites.
So funny you should mention Seville a l’Aube – I debated whether or not to include something I love and own as overrated but ultimately decided on one of the worst offenders taking into account cost and likeability.
Seville was so hyped I was sure I would hate it – and then was surprised to actually love it 😉
You’ve described my experience exactly : -)
I was surprised to like it so much too, especially since an overwhelming number of orange blossom fragrances go directly to Dove soap on my skin. This one doesn’t. I still don’t own any and probably won’t buy any, but I thought it was well-done and a joy to wear.
Havana Pour Elle, long discontinued, totally overlooked. Sort of a kissing cousin to ELDO Like This – just with tobacco instead of pumpkin. It probably wasn’t considered feminine enough to be much of a seller.
Luctor et Emergo POTL – never understood the hype over this one. I’ve tried and tried over the years, but never go anything other than stale Play-Doh.
Good to know about Havana pour Elle. The packaging looks dreadful (online) to have done it in. It’s a shame when that happens.
It was tacky, but no worse than a lot of stuff from the mid-90s. I just looked at Fragrantica’s note list was a bit surprised – nothing like what they make it out to be (uber fruity). I remember it as a having a realistic lemon top note, dry tobacco leaf and immortelle.
Cacheral fragrances are under rated- for thr price some are very good!
Over rated- Jo Malone
Oh, no! Say it ain’t so? Someone that dislikes Jo!
Lol! I love JM. I was waiting for someone to say it. I wish people loved the line the way I do!
Sorry. I’m in that camp as well. It may be that I am generally overwhelmed by the sheer number of JM offerings when I see a display, but none has yet grabbed me. That said, I wouldn’t put it in the “over rated” category… just not my cup of tea.
I am in Jo Malone fans camp. And I have to say: I don’t know how it is “in the wild” but in the Perfumeland JM is anything but overrated.
I’m in the love Jo Malone camp as well…and the Atelier Cologne line. Both of these have been summarily dismissed every time the brands come up with something new – e.g. Oh, another Jo Malone, they don’t last… these are guilty before being proven worthy of perfumista love. The pattern reminds me of Celebuscents that are get a bad rap from the get-go.
Thank You! Hajusuuri and Undina understand what I am saying. People are just ready to dismiss before they give it a chance. JM is an amazing brand! If you guys haven’t checked out the “Jo Loves” line, you should. You won’t be disappointed.
Well, people do have different experiences. I’m always willing to try a new JM, and very often they smell just fine to me. But my expectation at this point, having tested close to a dozen of them, is that I won’t get more than three hours’ wear, and frequently much less than that. If I decide that’s a poor cost-per-wearing ratio for my personal budget, that’s my opinion and I’m sure you would agree that I’m justified in sharing it.
I dont like JM for the simple reason that a small bottle here is $90 and lasts all of 3 minutes on my skin. Just not worth it.
The Nectarine Blossom and Honey and Blackberry and Bay usually lasts all day on me. Some of the JM fragrances are lighter than others. I guess it all depends on which one you wear.
Blackberry and Bay lasts for about three hours on me, and it’s one of the longer-lived JM’s on my skin.
Underrated–how totally wonderful it is to find a relaxed and informed salesperson at a perfume counter or shop… Am in NYC celebrating my husband’s birthday and he humored me with visits to MiN New York, Aedes de Venustas, and Osswald Parfumerie… The women who helped me at MiN and Osswalds were super knowledgeable, unpretentious, and fun…The first time I went to each, I bought nothing. (At AdV, the clerk asked if I was looking for anything in particular… learning that I wasn’t, she wandered off bored… which was fine with me as she didn’t seem to mind me trying practically every scent in the store…)
So, my only actual FB purchase so far is Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d’Ascese…. but there is always today…
Over-rated?–I finally got to try the Comme de Garcons Incense line… I was ready to be blown away… and I like them all, but thought I’d really like them as room sprays… and definitely did not need to buy one.
I have to say I have mixed feelings about CdG. I find some of them exceptionally novel and intriguing to sniff, and I’m glad they exist. Nonetheless, I never wear them because they ultimately seem a bit superficial and unsatisfying or harsh.
Underrated: MCMC frangrances. Great back stories, EDP priced under $100, (just $45 for perfume oils) and all beautiful. My favorites are Love, Noble, and Maine.
Overrated: Jo Malone. They’re pretty but thin and boring.
I forgot about MCMC, which proves your point. I have been tempted by the ones I have tried and thought they felt very high quality.
Yes, good point. I like every MCMC I’ve tried.
They are gorgeous – esp Hunter and Maine, but unfortunately it’s one of the brands that produces an insta-headache for me.
FYI, an article in the New York Times travel section on “12 Treasures of Europe” highlights a perfume shop in Istanbul called Lokum Istanbul. They have a second shop in London and an eponymous website.
“A feast for the nose awaits in Lokum’s signature colognes (25 Turkish lira, or about $11.30 at 2.20 lira to the dollar), which were developed by the owner, Zeynep Keyman, from classic Turkish essences like rose, fig, tea and mimosa. Perfumes and incense sticks are in the works.”
They also have scented candles and lokum. I wonder if any London or Istanbul based or traveling NSTers have encountered this shop?
I was in Istanbul last May, and researched every perfume shop I could find before going and never found this.. Actually there was a shop that I saw that did that ‘we mix whatever you want’ thing, plus signature scents.. Maybe that was it.. It didn’t do anything for me it smelled pretty average (if it was actually the place)
Underrated– Soivohle Centennial — this is dark green, deep with animalic undertones, is completely wearable and comes in affordable travel sizes
Overrated– Ormonde Jayne Woman — I never got the love for this– OJ Man is better on the woodsy theme
DEAR HEAVENS how I love Centennial. I don’t know that I’d call it green – I always “see” this one as a warm, peachy-russet color – but it is so beautiful.
How funny. I always see it as a very dark green but agree on how gorgeous it is
I am a green-lover in general so my threshold for “green” might be higher than average. 🙂
How prominent is the patch note? It does sound nice.
I didn’t even realize there was a patch note– it is so smoothly blended that I usually don’t pick out individual notes.
I am very sensitive to patchouli and really really hate the classic dry-dusty version of it but get on fine with aged patchouli. It’s definitely there in Centennial, but very much in the background – I can pick it out if I try, but it is not a focus. This one is a “warm” floral chypre as opposed to a cool green one, in my view. 🙂 It does have, I think, a tiny bit of civet in it so it smells very lived-in, but not raunchy.
Soivohle is underrated in general, she has some of the most stunning, sophisticated scents out there. If she raised her prices more folks might notice – but I hope she doesn’t. I have Cuir Bella and Oud Lacquer. I treasure them, a resin-lover’s dream!
Underrated – DK Cashmere Mist flanker Liquid Nude. It must not smell as lovely as it does to me on most others, and it is discontinued, so I don’t expect this to be a popular sentiment. Doesn’t matter, I love it.
Overrated – just days ago I would have said “Hands down, EL Sensuous for sure.” Then, last night, just to confirm my theory, I wore some from my sample, and…the plastic note that I typically object to is absent. And, I liked it enough to wear it again today.
So my amended answer for overrated is whatever thought process is behind companies producing giant bottles of expensive scents – 100 or 200 ml only, since I would way prefer to buy a 15-30ml bottle. So, rather than getting some of my money, you get none. None, I say!!
I was in Macy’s the other day for a quick spritz sampling at the perfume counters — they had a small kiosk island in the middle of the cosmetics area that had a really large selection of mini’s and rollerballs for many of the featured fragrances.
Many of them seemed to be smaller than ever, just a little larger than the samples we used to get for free! Hitting the 20 to 30 dollar range, I think too expensive for what you get, but certainly an alternative that makes a search for a ‘signature’ fragrance more affordable.
It’s gonna be a long time before I buy any big bottles — still have several samplers from niche houses to get through, as well as having my eye on the Sephora mini collections that include coupons for larger purchases.
Oh My GOODNESS! I Love this…
nothing on the first one, but golly… I do think Fendi Theorema Gets SO MUCH Perfumnista love that it borders on Fanaticism. I just don’t understand it… it’s Just… ODD smelling. Tried to find what everyone loves so much about it… Never got it.
Hmm, underrated … Micallef’s Denis Durand Couture. I love this scent – cinnamon, amber and florals. It is rich and gorgeous and I never hear anyone talk about it. The distributor even told me it’s not a big seller and I’m not sure why.
Overrated- there are so many… but La Vie est Belle is unjustifiably popular. It was one of the worst things I’ve ever smelled.
The DDCouture was really nice (I did love that cinnamon note), but seemed to me fairly similar to Organza Indecence – which I already own, so I didn’t buy any.
This is tricky, because I think the answers are dependent on which circles you run in and how perfume friendly people are.
Overlooked: Reem Acra- it’s a bit weak in the base, but I actually think it’s quite beautiful, and a bit different than some of the syrupy sweet orange blossoms that’s flooded the market. It’s not groundbreaking, but it’s not so typical either.
Overrated: J’adore. To this day I don’t understand its appeal. It smells like shampoo to me, which is nice, but it’s so boring.
I thought YSL Nu was waaay underrated. A gorgeous fragrance, and now it’s badly reformulated and rarely available.
On the excessive side, Tom Ford’s more commercial offerings are lost on me, especially the fruitchoulis.
My signature fragrance is Sisley Eau de Soir which I adore and it suits me – according to my friends and family – its a heady chypre which is great value for money as it lasts and shimmers and twinkles on clothes and skin – Luca Turin slated it (what does HE know!!:)))
And the perfume which is overrated is Coco Mademoiselle – I’ve bought and tried it over the years and it always ends up on ebay! Nasty stuff up close – altho it does have a huge sillage.
Coco Mlle is SO SO awful on me, and at least some of the people who wear it, that I’m stunned it still sells: screechy bare florals and shrieking patchouli, like the car alarm in the parking lot outside. But sell it does. I smell it fairly often out in public.
I have, however, enjoyed it on two people, and I suspect that their skin does something nice to it, damps down the shriek and plays up the warm woody notes so that it is a comfortable woody floral something like the drydown of Arpege.
Neglected: Vanille absolument or Havana Vanille by L’Artisan parfumeur…
Overrated: Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio’…to me it smells like wc-net