• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

The Monday Mail ~ help Florence find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 18 November 2013 32 Comments

Post box, Bologna

Today we're helping Florence. She wants to find an everyday perfume that’s not boring, that will not offend anyone if worn very lightly to work, but that will bring her joy when she smells the inside of her wrist. She'd love something mysterious and unexpected, dark but not heavy. Florence says she is in a "leather and Eau de Cologne rut", so she's also hoping we'll help her find new notes to explore and fall in love with. Her budget is $200 max. Here is what we know about Florence:

She's in her mid-20s, and lives in San Francisco.

She works a museum by day and a bar by night.

Her style tends to the vintage and menswear-inspired, usually with a scarf for a little flair.

Florence says her perfume journey has been mostly theoretical: she reads blogs but hasn’t tried many of the fragrances that sound appealing to her, and she's not sure how the notes or perfume vocabulary she reads about relates to the perfumes she is actually smelling. She loves Chanel Cuir de Russie (holy grail), Cuir de Lancôme (but too powdery to wear all the time), Hermès Bel Ami & Terre d’Hermès (she likes masculine scents that aren’t too sporty). She was just in Paris and splurged on a bottle of Serge Lutens Chêne because she loves the woodiness, but she wishes it was smokier or more leathery.

She also likes lighter scents like Hermès Osmanthe Yunnan (perfect but too expensive and doesn’t last), Chanel Eau de Cologne (same issues) and Annick Goutal Mandragore. She likes Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert Extreme, Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere & Coco Mademoiselle, but wants something less ubiquitous. She feels like she should like iris, but Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist did not appeal; she's likewise intrigued by incense, but Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande was too lavender-y.

Florence doesn't like overly sweet fragrances or stewed-fruit (Rochas Femme or Shiseido Féminité du Bois). Fragrances that didn't work for her include Hermès Kelly Caleche (too sharp), Bottega Veneta (the fruit) and Guerlain L’ Heure Bleue (too delicate).

What say you?

Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

Advertisement


32 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. Rappleyea says:
    18 November 2013 at 10:34 am

    I’d sure love to meet these interesting folks that sign up for the Monday Mail!

    The only things coming to me are Guerlain Vol de Nuit and Solange Cosmic. I also love Cuir de Russie and both of these remind me in some way of CdR without smelling like it (if that makes sense). Maybe it’s that they “feel” like CdR.

    Also, might try Sonoma Scent Studio Nostalgie.

    Log in to Reply
  2. egabbert says:
    18 November 2013 at 10:35 am

    We share some likes and I think you will LOVE Donna Karan Signature: a woody floral with leathery notes. It’s restrained enough for work, but complex and long-lasting.

    If you’re looking for smoky, you might also seek out a sample of Patchouli 24 from Le Labo — tons of birch tar.

    Log in to Reply
    • Cybele says:
      18 November 2013 at 11:16 am

      couldn’t agree more to Signiture. Other scents that make a perfect, beautiful, mysterious dab on the wrist: Homage by Amouage, Yatagan, Rien by Etat Libre Orange, Le Labo Oud 27 (I know, I am repeating myself). And you should try Dzing!

      Log in to Reply
  3. Sapphire says:
    18 November 2013 at 10:51 am

    For a lighter iris, you might try 28 La Pausa. VCA Bois d’Iris is lovely, more woody than iris. For smoky, I recommend Donna Karan Black Cashmere.

    Log in to Reply
    • C.H. says:
      18 November 2013 at 1:23 pm

      Seconding 28 La Pausa! An elegant iris, and tonally I feel like it and Cuir de Russie have a certain style in common (do I only think that because they’re from the same line though? I can’t swear that’s not the reason!) In any event it’s beautiful, and very work safe.

      Log in to Reply
  4. 2rista says:
    18 November 2013 at 10:57 am

    Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons. Woody, smoky and delicious.

    Log in to Reply
  5. Dilana says:
    18 November 2013 at 11:07 am

    For a deep leather, you might try Lutens Daim Blond (currently available on the web with some discounts) a non-sweet apricot leather which is very rich and sophisticated. For a tough guy leather, you might want to try Bandit.
    For a change of notes, you might want to try a smokey vanilla, a category which includes BVLGARI black, easily available on discount (and perhaps at your local store for a sniff).
    For a good, non powdery iris, you can try Iris Nobile, again often discounted.
    A fabulous “non-offensive” clean day fragrance with incense is Seville D’Aube.
    Although I have yet to try them, the CB I Hate Perfume site has a number of smokey scents. It has one called in the Library which has the smell of old leather bound books. I’d prefer it as a room scent, rather than on me, but many people love it.

    Log in to Reply
  6. BlueHillsgal says:
    18 November 2013 at 11:09 am

    I would recommend Kalamintan by Chantecaille. It is not as “intense” as some would describe it and perfectly matches her likes.

    Log in to Reply
    • BlueHillsgal says:
      20 November 2013 at 11:42 am

      Sorry – that is Kalimantan.

      Now that I think of it, Florence might also be intrigued by Craft – a highly unusual fragrance that I discovered while visiting New Orleans. Seems fitting for a young woman in San Francisco.

      http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Andrea-Maack/Craft-10647.html

      Log in to Reply
  7. lucasai says:
    18 November 2013 at 11:32 am

    Florence might like:

    Ramon Monegal Barcelona Cuirelle – a soft and cozy leather
    Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus interide – a more lasting alternative to Osmanthe Yunnan
    Carner Barcelona D600 – a soft woody iris
    Aedes Iris Nazarena – the loveliest iris + incense combo
    VC&A Bois d’Iris – more woody and creamy side of iris
    Tauer Le Maroc Pour Elle

    Log in to Reply
  8. trixiesweet says:
    18 November 2013 at 12:55 pm

    Seconding Osmanthus Inerdite!
    I would also look at Equistrius from the same line, Parfum d’Empire, which is very unusual, but understated and chic.

    Log in to Reply
    • trixiesweet says:
      18 November 2013 at 12:56 pm

      * I meant Interdite*

      Log in to Reply
  9. C.H. says:
    18 November 2013 at 1:20 pm

    For mysterious and unexpected, dark but not heavy, plus some smoke and incense, and dry rather than sweet, I vote Tauer L’air du desert marocain. You’d need to apply lightly, but I don’t think it would offend anyone. And definitely not boring!

    Meanwhile, in a completely different vein, but Infusion d’Iris Absolue may be worth trying for a beautiful but easier-going iris. And it def won’t offend anyone.

    Log in to Reply
    • Rappleyea says:
      18 November 2013 at 3:08 pm

      Seconding the Tauer!

      Log in to Reply
  10. AnnieA says:
    18 November 2013 at 2:38 pm

    *Patchouli 24 from Le Labo for woodsmoke
    *Vetiver 46 from Le Labo for snuffed-out candle
    *Sycomore from Chanel for smoky vetiver
    *Bas de Soie from Serge Lutens is a very pretty iris, but not at all mysterious
    * Avignon from Comme des Garçons for incense (other ones in the series too)

    Log in to Reply
    • PekeFan says:
      18 November 2013 at 5:18 pm

      I second Chanel Sycomore!

      Log in to Reply
  11. bastet says:
    18 November 2013 at 4:00 pm

    L’Artisan Timbuktu is a wonderful dry (as in not sweet) slightly smokey incense and vetiver fragrance that is mysterious and rich but somehow still light (on me at least). I often wear it in the office and have recieved only compliments.

    Log in to Reply
    • C.H. says:
      18 November 2013 at 5:28 pm

      Oh good idea–and, in the U.S., a 15ml bottle can be had on the Sephora website for $30. If $100 is the new free, is $30 like getting cash back? :)

      Log in to Reply
  12. sweetgrass says:
    18 November 2013 at 4:58 pm

    If Chene didn’t work, I wonder if maybe Chergui might? Diptyque Tam Dao or 10 Corso Como might be good woody scents for you. The Different Company Bois d’Iris might be worth a shot too.

    Log in to Reply
    • sweetgrass says:
      18 November 2013 at 5:01 pm

      I’d also second Bas de Soie and Timbuktu. I also just thought of a couple more: Lubin Idole and Safran Troublant. The newer Lubins – Korrigan, Akkad and Galaad – might be good to try as well.

      Log in to Reply
  13. hajusuuri says:
    18 November 2013 at 7:25 pm

    I suggest:
    – Mona di Orio Violette Fumee
    – Diptyque Volutes EDT and EDP
    – Ann Gerard Trio (not sure if still available at Luckyscent)
    – Serge Lutens Boxeuses (may be too sweet but it’s My Preciousssssss)
    – Atelier Cologne Silver Iris or Gold Leather

    Log in to Reply
    • justineantonia says:
      19 November 2013 at 9:39 am

      Yes – Volutes! Absolutely. Well played!!

      Log in to Reply
  14. Chicago Belle13 says:
    18 November 2013 at 9:09 pm

    Hello all! So excited to post my first comment and help Florance! I love this sight and after lurking for a while and reading the expert/funny comments, I finally decided to register to become a part of this wonderful crowd with exquisite noses.

    A fragrance nut myself, Florance’s taste cannot be any further than mine, but I think she should smell:
    Black Orchid by Tom Ford
    Shalimar by Guerlain
    Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford
    Spice Bomb- Viktor & Rolf- for men, originally, but is so soft, can be worn by women.

    Log in to Reply
    • L says:
      19 November 2013 at 2:23 am

      Good picks Belle13! Welcome to NST!

      Log in to Reply
  15. maggiecat says:
    18 November 2013 at 9:56 pm

    All of these sound good, but I’m going to go out on a limb and focus on “mysterious” rather than “leather” as I think the former is more difficult to find than the latter. I’m going to suggest (as I usually do) Ormonde Jayne Woman – woody, spicy, and definitely mysterious!

    Log in to Reply
  16. LondonCalling says:
    18 November 2013 at 10:26 pm

    Agreed on 28 La Pausa, Sycomore, and Dzing! Bois Farine might be interesting, too.

    Tam Dao is gorgeous, interesting and still work-day appropriate. One of the cleanest sandalwood scents out there, but still intelligent and beautifully crafted.

    There’s always Dior Homme for a classic iris.

    Donna Karan Wenge Wood is a great woody option.

    Mona di Orio Cuir is an interesting leather. It sits close to the skin on me – works beautifully for daytime. Definitely worth a try.

    Log in to Reply
  17. juicejones says:
    18 November 2013 at 11:30 pm

    I second, or third, both Black Cashmere and Timbuktu. Wenge and Labanum are similar, but neither are as deep nor rich. Perhaps better for day. This of course brings me around to Chaos. Florence was a pup when that was around, but she might like it.
    I don’t know why I think she might also like Jean Louis Scherrer. Flo, if you can find it, give it a try.

    Log in to Reply
  18. L says:
    19 November 2013 at 2:28 am

    I think L’Air du Desert Marocain is a great idea. Etro’s Shaal Nur is a lemony incense. I don’t know if it could be considered mysterious, but it sure makes a great work fragrance.

    Log in to Reply
  19. SmokeyToes says:
    20 November 2013 at 4:42 pm

    If she wants leather, I’d say Sikkim by Lancôme for a spicy floral (gardenia & carnation) dry/woodsy (oakmoss and galbanum) leather with a touch of vetiver.
    If she likes green-I’d recommend Niki de st Phalle.
    If she wants a green chypre, Halston Couture or Magie Noire.
    If she likes Iris, try Le Labo’s Iris 39.

    Log in to Reply
  20. SmokeyToes says:
    20 November 2013 at 4:51 pm

    I’d also recommend Sonoma Scent Studio’s Fireside Intense, woods, leather, smoke and agarwood. Very beautiful.

    Log in to Reply
  21. florence says:
    20 November 2013 at 4:57 pm

    Hi all! Florence here. Thanks for the fantastic recommendations. Many are new to me while others have been on my “to try” list for a while, so it seems you’re pretty spot-on with my tastes. Just put in a big sample order, and I’ll report back if I find new true loves!

    Log in to Reply
  22. muzikchick says:
    25 November 2013 at 10:55 pm

    I second Timbuktu.
    We seem to have similar tastes so I would also suggest L’artisan Passage d’Enfer (one of my favorites) , or if you really want something with more musk and leather Miller Harris L`Air de Rien. If you like masculine scents, I’d give Serge Lutens Gris Clair a try. Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain has a bit too much fruit mixed with the incense for my taste but I love Lys du Desert from Decennial made by Tauer. Santal Sacre by Decennial sounds intriguing too.

    Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

Browse by…

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

February 2021
January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

From NST at Twitter

  • "Cartier Perfumer Mathilde Laurent Shares Her French Beauty Essentials" (vanity fair, hat tip to kevin!) https://t.co/qsMjKpmme3,
  • "What's that smell? New 'Corpse Flower' in full bloom at Nashville Zoo" (fox 17) https://t.co/QlPVyWVOq1,
  • Updated info on Costume National Supergloss https://t.co/fDSO0qQHen,

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

24 April ~ swapmeet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2021 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.