Today we're helping Florence. She wants to find an everyday perfume that’s not boring, that will not offend anyone if worn very lightly to work, but that will bring her joy when she smells the inside of her wrist. She'd love something mysterious and unexpected, dark but not heavy. Florence says she is in a "leather and Eau de Cologne rut", so she's also hoping we'll help her find new notes to explore and fall in love with. Her budget is $200 max. Here is what we know about Florence:
She's in her mid-20s, and lives in San Francisco.
She works a museum by day and a bar by night.
Her style tends to the vintage and menswear-inspired, usually with a scarf for a little flair.
Florence says her perfume journey has been mostly theoretical: she reads blogs but hasn’t tried many of the fragrances that sound appealing to her, and she's not sure how the notes or perfume vocabulary she reads about relates to the perfumes she is actually smelling. She loves Chanel Cuir de Russie (holy grail), Cuir de Lancôme (but too powdery to wear all the time), Hermès Bel Ami & Terre d’Hermès (she likes masculine scents that aren’t too sporty). She was just in Paris and splurged on a bottle of Serge Lutens Chêne because she loves the woodiness, but she wishes it was smokier or more leathery.
She also likes lighter scents like Hermès Osmanthe Yunnan (perfect but too expensive and doesn’t last), Chanel Eau de Cologne (same issues) and Annick Goutal Mandragore. She likes Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert Extreme, Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere & Coco Mademoiselle, but wants something less ubiquitous. She feels like she should like iris, but Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist did not appeal; she's likewise intrigued by incense, but Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande was too lavender-y.
Florence doesn't like overly sweet fragrances or stewed-fruit (Rochas Femme or Shiseido Féminité du Bois). Fragrances that didn't work for her include Hermès Kelly Caleche (too sharp), Bottega Veneta (the fruit) and Guerlain L’ Heure Bleue (too delicate).
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
I’d sure love to meet these interesting folks that sign up for the Monday Mail!
The only things coming to me are Guerlain Vol de Nuit and Solange Cosmic. I also love Cuir de Russie and both of these remind me in some way of CdR without smelling like it (if that makes sense). Maybe it’s that they “feel” like CdR.
Also, might try Sonoma Scent Studio Nostalgie.
We share some likes and I think you will LOVE Donna Karan Signature: a woody floral with leathery notes. It’s restrained enough for work, but complex and long-lasting.
If you’re looking for smoky, you might also seek out a sample of Patchouli 24 from Le Labo — tons of birch tar.
couldn’t agree more to Signiture. Other scents that make a perfect, beautiful, mysterious dab on the wrist: Homage by Amouage, Yatagan, Rien by Etat Libre Orange, Le Labo Oud 27 (I know, I am repeating myself). And you should try Dzing!
For a lighter iris, you might try 28 La Pausa. VCA Bois d’Iris is lovely, more woody than iris. For smoky, I recommend Donna Karan Black Cashmere.
Seconding 28 La Pausa! An elegant iris, and tonally I feel like it and Cuir de Russie have a certain style in common (do I only think that because they’re from the same line though? I can’t swear that’s not the reason!) In any event it’s beautiful, and very work safe.
Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons. Woody, smoky and delicious.
For a deep leather, you might try Lutens Daim Blond (currently available on the web with some discounts) a non-sweet apricot leather which is very rich and sophisticated. For a tough guy leather, you might want to try Bandit.
For a change of notes, you might want to try a smokey vanilla, a category which includes BVLGARI black, easily available on discount (and perhaps at your local store for a sniff).
For a good, non powdery iris, you can try Iris Nobile, again often discounted.
A fabulous “non-offensive” clean day fragrance with incense is Seville D’Aube.
Although I have yet to try them, the CB I Hate Perfume site has a number of smokey scents. It has one called in the Library which has the smell of old leather bound books. I’d prefer it as a room scent, rather than on me, but many people love it.
I would recommend Kalamintan by Chantecaille. It is not as “intense” as some would describe it and perfectly matches her likes.
Sorry – that is Kalimantan.
Now that I think of it, Florence might also be intrigued by Craft – a highly unusual fragrance that I discovered while visiting New Orleans. Seems fitting for a young woman in San Francisco.
http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Andrea-Maack/Craft-10647.html
Florence might like:
Ramon Monegal Barcelona Cuirelle – a soft and cozy leather
Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus interide – a more lasting alternative to Osmanthe Yunnan
Carner Barcelona D600 – a soft woody iris
Aedes Iris Nazarena – the loveliest iris + incense combo
VC&A Bois d’Iris – more woody and creamy side of iris
Tauer Le Maroc Pour Elle
Seconding Osmanthus Inerdite!
I would also look at Equistrius from the same line, Parfum d’Empire, which is very unusual, but understated and chic.
* I meant Interdite*
For mysterious and unexpected, dark but not heavy, plus some smoke and incense, and dry rather than sweet, I vote Tauer L’air du desert marocain. You’d need to apply lightly, but I don’t think it would offend anyone. And definitely not boring!
Meanwhile, in a completely different vein, but Infusion d’Iris Absolue may be worth trying for a beautiful but easier-going iris. And it def won’t offend anyone.
Seconding the Tauer!
*Patchouli 24 from Le Labo for woodsmoke
*Vetiver 46 from Le Labo for snuffed-out candle
*Sycomore from Chanel for smoky vetiver
*Bas de Soie from Serge Lutens is a very pretty iris, but not at all mysterious
* Avignon from Comme des Garçons for incense (other ones in the series too)
I second Chanel Sycomore!
L’Artisan Timbuktu is a wonderful dry (as in not sweet) slightly smokey incense and vetiver fragrance that is mysterious and rich but somehow still light (on me at least). I often wear it in the office and have recieved only compliments.
Oh good idea–and, in the U.S., a 15ml bottle can be had on the Sephora website for $30. If $100 is the new free, is $30 like getting cash back? 🙂
If Chene didn’t work, I wonder if maybe Chergui might? Diptyque Tam Dao or 10 Corso Como might be good woody scents for you. The Different Company Bois d’Iris might be worth a shot too.
I’d also second Bas de Soie and Timbuktu. I also just thought of a couple more: Lubin Idole and Safran Troublant. The newer Lubins – Korrigan, Akkad and Galaad – might be good to try as well.
I suggest:
– Mona di Orio Violette Fumee
– Diptyque Volutes EDT and EDP
– Ann Gerard Trio (not sure if still available at Luckyscent)
– Serge Lutens Boxeuses (may be too sweet but it’s My Preciousssssss)
– Atelier Cologne Silver Iris or Gold Leather
Yes – Volutes! Absolutely. Well played!!
Hello all! So excited to post my first comment and help Florance! I love this sight and after lurking for a while and reading the expert/funny comments, I finally decided to register to become a part of this wonderful crowd with exquisite noses.
A fragrance nut myself, Florance’s taste cannot be any further than mine, but I think she should smell:
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
Shalimar by Guerlain
Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford
Spice Bomb- Viktor & Rolf- for men, originally, but is so soft, can be worn by women.
Good picks Belle13! Welcome to NST!
All of these sound good, but I’m going to go out on a limb and focus on “mysterious” rather than “leather” as I think the former is more difficult to find than the latter. I’m going to suggest (as I usually do) Ormonde Jayne Woman – woody, spicy, and definitely mysterious!
Agreed on 28 La Pausa, Sycomore, and Dzing! Bois Farine might be interesting, too.
Tam Dao is gorgeous, interesting and still work-day appropriate. One of the cleanest sandalwood scents out there, but still intelligent and beautifully crafted.
There’s always Dior Homme for a classic iris.
Donna Karan Wenge Wood is a great woody option.
Mona di Orio Cuir is an interesting leather. It sits close to the skin on me – works beautifully for daytime. Definitely worth a try.
I second, or third, both Black Cashmere and Timbuktu. Wenge and Labanum are similar, but neither are as deep nor rich. Perhaps better for day. This of course brings me around to Chaos. Florence was a pup when that was around, but she might like it.
I don’t know why I think she might also like Jean Louis Scherrer. Flo, if you can find it, give it a try.
I think L’Air du Desert Marocain is a great idea. Etro’s Shaal Nur is a lemony incense. I don’t know if it could be considered mysterious, but it sure makes a great work fragrance.
If she wants leather, I’d say Sikkim by Lancôme for a spicy floral (gardenia & carnation) dry/woodsy (oakmoss and galbanum) leather with a touch of vetiver.
If she likes green-I’d recommend Niki de st Phalle.
If she wants a green chypre, Halston Couture or Magie Noire.
If she likes Iris, try Le Labo’s Iris 39.
I’d also recommend Sonoma Scent Studio’s Fireside Intense, woods, leather, smoke and agarwood. Very beautiful.
Hi all! Florence here. Thanks for the fantastic recommendations. Many are new to me while others have been on my “to try” list for a while, so it seems you’re pretty spot-on with my tastes. Just put in a big sample order, and I’ll report back if I find new true loves!
I second Timbuktu.
We seem to have similar tastes so I would also suggest L’artisan Passage d’Enfer (one of my favorites) , or if you really want something with more musk and leather Miller Harris L`Air de Rien. If you like masculine scents, I’d give Serge Lutens Gris Clair a try. Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain has a bit too much fruit mixed with the incense for my taste but I love Lys du Desert from Decennial made by Tauer. Santal Sacre by Decennial sounds intriguing too.