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Today we're helping Sophie, who is looking for two fragrances that may or may not overlap: a Holy Grail scent, and a fragrance appropriate for an academic/office workplace. Sophie has fairly good access to perfume stores of all kinds, and she's more than happy to buy samples online. She can pay up to $150 for a fragrance, but she's also happy to purchase decants so price is not too much of a factor, although Amouage attars and the like are out of the question. Here is what we know about Sophie:
She's a graduate student in her late 20s, studying sustainability and landscape ecology.
She has spent most of her life in big cities — NYC, Tokyo, Shanghai, Singapore, Milan, Paris, LA.
Sophie loves exploring cultures via literature, music, cuisine, art.
Her Asian heritage plays a big part in who she is.
She wears a lot of black.
Sophie likes iris, osmanthus, plum, peach, amber, honey, woods, violet, tea, green notes, spices, and jasmine in a supporting role. She likes the scents of ginger and incense in real life, but hasn't smelled them in perfume. Perfumes she has tried and liked include Chanel Coco, Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan, Serge Lutens Feminite Du Bois, Bvlgari Black and Bvlgari's Tea series.
Sopie dislikes lavender (loathes it), civet, fruit cocktails, cute roses, anything too "soapy". She admires Big White Florals on others but they are either overwhelming or boring on her skin; same for aldehydes, at least in heavy concentrations. Perfumes she has disliked or cannot wear include Chanel No. 5 (too heavy), Guerlain's Champs-Elysees (smells like paint thinner), Agent Provocateur (snoozefest), Serge Lutens Musc Koublai Khan (terrifying), and almost anything by Estee Lauder or Juliette has a Gun.
Here is what Sophie has tried so far
Rochas Femme: delicious plum and peach notes, but the cumin is too much.
Prada Infusion D'Iris: she really like it, but the citrus is a little too loud.
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan: she likes dry, bitter, herbal spices, but this was pushing it. She admired this a lot but couldn't wear it.
Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan: atrocious lasting power, but gorgeous.
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
If she liked Femme, there’s Mitsouko, which was Femme’s inspiration and does not have so much cumin. Jacques Guerlain named it after the main character in a French novel (“La Bataille” by Claude Farrère): a Japanese woman torn between her husband—a Japanese officer—and a British officer whom she loves. The author had traveled extensively and loved Japan. I haven’t read it but it seems to be more about this woman than about an idealised version of the East.
Mitsouko is lovely in the fall/winter, the EdP concentration is to be preferred and the 2013 formulation is apparently a great success. If worn sparingly, it could be used as office scent.
Mitsouko was my first thought, too. Other possibilities might include Jacomo Silences and Donna Karan Black Cashmere.
I’m so sorry I am replying so late! Was out of town to work on my dissertation…
I think I tried the eau de toilette version of Mitsouko some time ago and was not enamoured with it. The extrait is just lovely but a little hard on my wallet. I must try the edp version!
staying power is what keeps me from dropping the money on osmanthe yunnan as well. i think she might be interested in some Diptyque scents. i look forward to hearing what others recommend!
I love Diptyque’s L’Ombre Dans L’Eau! I think I liked Tam Dao but can’t really remember how it smelt anymore.
Asian background, a love for big cities and the colour black – you should definitely try the Incense series by Comme des Garcons! They are amazing although probably less suitable for a work place. As an office friendly scent I suggest Bottega Veneta – soft leather, fruits, violets, it’s understated elegance in a bottle! You might also like Ormonde Woman – green notes, woods and violets, a very unusual and wonderful scent.
Thanks for the suggestion! There are some basic CdG scents sold at perfume stores and department stores around here, but I haven’t seen the incense series. Must order some samples.
Hi Sophie, here are a few recs:
* thè pour un été (artisan parfumeur), a jasmine green tea, not very tenacious though.
* Ormonde jayne’s sample set (there’s an osmanthus scent, a floral-woody one and a tea+rice option that you might like. They are called osmanthus, frangipani and Champaca).
*Ambre narguilé and Ambre des merveilles from Hermes (if you were overwhelmed by serge lutens, these are airy, transparent and interesting alternatives with surprisingly decent lasting power)
* serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane (export range) is all about a pretty apricotty but thick osmanthus. don’t spray too much when you test it.
* By Kilian liasons dangereuses is a plummy and peachy woody rose, without cumin and thorns. The travel set is much more affordable tahn the regular bottles (and waaaaaaaay more elegant and pretty. And practical ;))
* The different company Bois d’iris – a round and woody iris fragrance.
* On fragrantica it is suggested that if you liked osmanthe yunnan you should try Tourbillon de thé Esteban for women. You might have luck: it’s easy to beat Ellena on the lasting power issue!!!
* Both parfum d’empire and the different company have osmanthus centered fragrances, but I haven’t tried them.
* While you are at the parfum d’empire counter, try cuir ottoman, just because. Leathery, honeyed ambery goodness.
Good luck!
Wow, thank you for all the suggestions, Zazie. There are a lot of fragrances on this list I haven’t tried. Liasions Dangereuses sounds especially delicious… I have tried and liked Osmanthus Interdite, and that is on my to-buy list.
Try Osmantus Interdite by Parfum d’Empire. It was recommended to me on this very board and I adore it now: osmanthus, tea and a leather undercurrent (a teeny bit, really) to keep things interesting. Lasting power on me is good, given that it’s a delicate scent, sillage moderate. Just lovely.
I recently tried this one and like it very much! It’s quite affordable too, so I’m very likely to purchase it. Thank you!
Try Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone, for the plum and woods, but mostly for the incense and spiciness.
Thank you for the suggestion! I liked Pomegranate Noir when I tried it, but I remember it smelling mostly like pomegranate juice to me without much complexity. I must try it again.
Dear Sophie,
your perfume tastes are quite interesting.You like iris, green notes and woods? My recommendation is Chanel No 19. The EdT is my favourite choice, but the EdP and the extrait have a lot of fans too. A famous perfume critic mentioned a “bitch in the boardrooom”, so you can be sure that it is at least office friendly…
If you are craving for honey and spices and don’t mind roses and mimosa, you should try Soir de Lune by Sisley. It also contains a peach note and some woods in the drydown. But be careful: Soir de Lune is a powerhouse, only apply a little and wait – it takes hours to develop.
Prada Infusion d’Iris l’Eau D’Iris (this year’s flanker) is also worth a sniff, less citrus, mint and laurel instead. It is great in the summer and totally inoffensive.
Thank you Martha! At the moment I *think* I like iris, but I’ve come across renditions of it I really dislike (Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir!). I should familiarize myself with Chanel no 19, I haven’t tried it before. And I did like the Sisley!
Serge Lutens Boxeuses
Tom Ford Plum Japonaise
DSH Perfumes Mirabella.
Comme des Garçons Kyoto
Satori by Parfum Satori (though only available in Japan from its online store) – a beautiful, light incense fragrance.
Roja Dove Enigma and Danger
Forgot to add L’Heure Bleue by Guelain.
Thank you! Now, I just need to figure out how to sample Roja Dove fragrances, I’ve been hearing so much about them.
My favorite plum is Mon Cheri par Camille by Annick Goutal.
Daim Blonde is a fine apricot leather, but you may find it heavy, so sniff first.
A good “work place” fragrance might be Ambre Nue.
Thanks Dilana. I have been meaning to try Mon Cheri per Camille because it gets a lot of comparisons with Rochas Femme.
Jacomo 08 has tea, spices, and dried fruit.
Thank you for the suggestion, those notes sound right up my alley.
Viktoria Minya Hedonist has a really nice osmanthus note, so that might be worth a try for you, as would The Different Company Osmanthus. I’d also recommend checking out Comme de Garcons Kyoto, and L’Artisan Timbuktu for incenses, and Lubin Idole EDP and L’Artisan Safran Troublant for spices.
Thank you very much!
I do like Timbuktu very much for the most part, but there is this weird sour note that pops up from time to time. Still, I enjoy my decant of it especially in this weather. And I will definitely look for your other suggestions.
I second the TDC Bois d’Iris recommendation, a gorgeous scent, and the TDC Osmanthus.
If you like Femme you might wish to try two other Roudnitska creations:
Dior Diorella, although you may find the opening too citrusy.
Editions de Parfums; Le Parfum de Thérèse, a pricy option but a beautiful one.
Coincidentally, I tried Parfum de Therese recently, and loved it. Thank you for the rec. I want to try Diorella but I’ve heard that Dior fragrances have all gone through terrible reformulations…
Have you tried Prada Infusion D’Iris Absolue (with the gold label)? smells much better than the original version in my opinion.
Other recommendation for you: Serge Lutens Bois de Violette and Dior Bois D’Argent.
Good point about the Prada, & I think it has less citrus too.
Thanks so much for the rec! I am generally wary of flankers (unfairly I admit), but a less citrusy Infusion D’Iris sounds great. Will have to look for it!
So many great suggestions! I would add:
– Parfums Delrae Mythique (Angela’s review says buttery iris and fresh, green suede with a breath of salt and also like leather chiffon underwear)
– Guerlain Après L’Ondee (so beautiful it hurts)
TDC Osmanthus
Chanel Bois des Iles (plush sandalwood with a hint of gingerbread)
M. Micallef Gaiac (wood, warm spices, vanilla, created for men but I like it too!)
Fifi Chachinil (citrus, spices, amber, tobacco)
Nanadebary (original pink) (ginger, spices, wood, vanilla balsam)
Bond No. 9 Silver Factory (iris/incense)
F. Malle Noir Epices (warm, fresh woody spices)
Julia, all these descriptions sound so appealing, especially Mythique! I do have Apres L’Ondee which I love. However, it disappears on my skin in a matter of minutes. I don’t know if it’s because I bought a tester bottle without cap, or if the fragrance is just like that.
Just thought of a few others, since she mentions liking honey:
Ginestet Botrytis
Hermessence Ambre Narguile
Delrae Amoureuse
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Mahjoun (this one also has the added benefit of being inexpensive)
Thank you for the suggestions! I did like Botrytis when I tried it, and I think my sample warrants a second try since it’s perfect weather for a rich warm honey scent.
I would suggest to try
Les Nez — The Unicorn Spell
Ormonde Jayne — Qi
Hermes — Eua de Narcisse Bleu
Thank you for your suggestions, Morgana. Qi is one I wanted to sample, but it doesn’t seem available anymore…?
– I second Serge Lutens Boxeuses
– although I have not smelled it myself, I bet that Atelier Cologne Silver Iris will be absolutely fabulous
– Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
– Diptyque Volutes EDT and EDP
– Le Labo Iris 39
Thank you for all the suggestions! Clearly there are many irises I still must sample.
For a realistic ginger, do try Origins Ginger Essence; it may seem a little lemony at first, but it does smell like the real thing, and is yummy. It’s almost aromatherapy, as it lifts your spirits! There is a whole line of products, and it comes as a milder, more citrusy Sensuous Skin Scent, or the stronger, more gingery Intensified version.
I love slicing ginger when I’m cooking, because the aroma is so bright and almost vivacious
This fragrance sounds like a winner in my book.
I first thought of An Evening Edged In Gold by Ineke.
Oh yes–seconding.
Just googled this, and the bottle is gorgeous! I’ll put it on my to-sample list, which is getting dangerously long.
My first thought for “woods and violet” was Sonoma Scent Studio’s Forest Walk. In fact there may be several SSS scents that would work for you from the list notes that you like. They all have excellent staying power and are very high quality for reasonable prices.
Even the name of the fragrance is so evocative! Thank you for your recommendation.
Bois des Iles, Chanel, for woods, amber, iris. Le Parfum de Therese by Frederic Malle for a fantastically elegant woody plum and jasmine scent.
I love Le Parfum de Therese.
Bois Des Iles is very beautiful as well, but I found it to be rather fleeting.
You said Estee Lauder is not your friend, but I have a feeling you would really like Youth Dew Amber Nude.
yes, me too! And I love YDAN….
I found Sensuous rather nice, but not something I would spend money on! I hear that Youth Dew is quite different from a lot of EL’s other scents, which to me mostly smell like laundry detergent (there is trickle-down effect for you). I do like amber fragrances though. Thank you!
Iris: Atelier Cologne Silver Iris and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist.
Asian heritage and black: definitely Kyoto.