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The Monday Mail ~ help Sophie find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 14 October 2013 50 Comments

Post box, Bologna

The waiting list for the Monday Mail is down to 2 people — if you've ever though you'd like to participate, now is a good time to sign up!

Today we're helping Sophie, who is looking for two fragrances that may or may not overlap: a Holy Grail scent, and a fragrance appropriate for an academic/office workplace. Sophie has fairly good access to perfume stores of all kinds, and she's more than happy to buy samples online. She can pay up to $150 for a fragrance, but she's also happy to purchase decants so price is not too much of a factor, although Amouage attars and the like are out of the question. Here is what we know about Sophie:

She's a graduate student in her late 20s, studying sustainability and landscape ecology.

She has spent most of her life in big cities — NYC, Tokyo, Shanghai, Singapore, Milan, Paris, LA.

Sophie loves exploring cultures via literature, music, cuisine, art.

Her Asian heritage plays a big part in who she is.

She wears a lot of black.

Sophie likes iris, osmanthus, plum, peach, amber, honey, woods, violet, tea, green notes, spices, and jasmine in a supporting role. She likes the scents of ginger and incense in real life, but hasn't smelled them in perfume. Perfumes she has tried and liked include Chanel Coco, Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan, Serge Lutens Feminite Du Bois, Bvlgari Black and Bvlgari's Tea series.

Sopie dislikes lavender (loathes it), civet, fruit cocktails, cute roses, anything too "soapy". She admires Big White Florals on others but they are either overwhelming or boring on her skin; same for aldehydes, at least in heavy concentrations. Perfumes she has disliked or cannot wear include Chanel No. 5 (too heavy), Guerlain's Champs-Elysees (smells like paint thinner), Agent Provocateur (snoozefest), Serge Lutens Musc Koublai Khan (terrifying), and almost anything by Estee Lauder or Juliette has a Gun.

Here is what Sophie has tried so far

Rochas Femme: delicious plum and peach notes, but the cumin is too much.

Prada Infusion D'Iris: she really like it, but the citrus is a little too loud.

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan: she likes dry, bitter, herbal spices, but this was pushing it. She admired this a lot but couldn't wear it.

Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan: atrocious lasting power, but gorgeous.

What say you?

Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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50 Comments

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  1. Satsuma says:
    14 October 2013 at 10:45 am

    If she liked Femme, there’s Mitsouko, which was Femme’s inspiration and does not have so much cumin. Jacques Guerlain named it after the main character in a French novel (“La Bataille” by Claude Farrère): a Japanese woman torn between her husband—a Japanese officer—and a British officer whom she loves. The author had traveled extensively and loved Japan. I haven’t read it but it seems to be more about this woman than about an idealised version of the East.
    Mitsouko is lovely in the fall/winter, the EdP concentration is to be preferred and the 2013 formulation is apparently a great success. If worn sparingly, it could be used as office scent.

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    • Liza says:
      14 October 2013 at 2:04 pm

      Mitsouko was my first thought, too. Other possibilities might include Jacomo Silences and Donna Karan Black Cashmere.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:16 pm

      I’m so sorry I am replying so late! Was out of town to work on my dissertation…
      I think I tried the eau de toilette version of Mitsouko some time ago and was not enamoured with it. The extrait is just lovely but a little hard on my wallet. I must try the edp version!

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  2. laurabird says:
    14 October 2013 at 11:12 am

    staying power is what keeps me from dropping the money on osmanthe yunnan as well. i think she might be interested in some Diptyque scents. i look forward to hearing what others recommend!

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:18 pm

      I love Diptyque’s L’Ombre Dans L’Eau! I think I liked Tam Dao but can’t really remember how it smelt anymore.

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  3. kristinacologne says:
    14 October 2013 at 11:26 am

    Asian background, a love for big cities and the colour black – you should definitely try the Incense series by Comme des Garcons! They are amazing although probably less suitable for a work place. As an office friendly scent I suggest Bottega Veneta – soft leather, fruits, violets, it’s understated elegance in a bottle! You might also like Ormonde Woman – green notes, woods and violets, a very unusual and wonderful scent.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:17 pm

      Thanks for the suggestion! There are some basic CdG scents sold at perfume stores and department stores around here, but I haven’t seen the incense series. Must order some samples.

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  4. Zazie says:
    14 October 2013 at 11:33 am

    Hi Sophie, here are a few recs:
    * thè pour un été (artisan parfumeur), a jasmine green tea, not very tenacious though.
    * Ormonde jayne’s sample set (there’s an osmanthus scent, a floral-woody one and a tea+rice option that you might like. They are called osmanthus, frangipani and Champaca).
    *Ambre narguilé and Ambre des merveilles from Hermes (if you were overwhelmed by serge lutens, these are airy, transparent and interesting alternatives with surprisingly decent lasting power)
    * serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane (export range) is all about a pretty apricotty but thick osmanthus. don’t spray too much when you test it.
    * By Kilian liasons dangereuses is a plummy and peachy woody rose, without cumin and thorns. The travel set is much more affordable tahn the regular bottles (and waaaaaaaay more elegant and pretty. And practical ;))
    * The different company Bois d’iris – a round and woody iris fragrance.
    * On fragrantica it is suggested that if you liked osmanthe yunnan you should try Tourbillon de thé Esteban for women. You might have luck: it’s easy to beat Ellena on the lasting power issue!!!
    * Both parfum d’empire and the different company have osmanthus centered fragrances, but I haven’t tried them.
    * While you are at the parfum d’empire counter, try cuir ottoman, just because. Leathery, honeyed ambery goodness.

    Good luck!

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:21 pm

      Wow, thank you for all the suggestions, Zazie. There are a lot of fragrances on this list I haven’t tried. Liasions Dangereuses sounds especially delicious… I have tried and liked Osmanthus Interdite, and that is on my to-buy list. :)

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  5. trixiesweet says:
    14 October 2013 at 11:35 am

    Try Osmantus Interdite by Parfum d’Empire. It was recommended to me on this very board and I adore it now: osmanthus, tea and a leather undercurrent (a teeny bit, really) to keep things interesting. Lasting power on me is good, given that it’s a delicate scent, sillage moderate. Just lovely.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:22 pm

      I recently tried this one and like it very much! It’s quite affordable too, so I’m very likely to purchase it. Thank you!

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  6. taudrey says:
    14 October 2013 at 11:41 am

    Try Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone, for the plum and woods, but mostly for the incense and spiciness.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:25 pm

      Thank you for the suggestion! I liked Pomegranate Noir when I tried it, but I remember it smelling mostly like pomegranate juice to me without much complexity. I must try it again.

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  7. martha24 says:
    14 October 2013 at 12:51 pm

    Dear Sophie,
    your perfume tastes are quite interesting.You like iris, green notes and woods? My recommendation is Chanel No 19. The EdT is my favourite choice, but the EdP and the extrait have a lot of fans too. A famous perfume critic mentioned a “bitch in the boardrooom”, so you can be sure that it is at least office friendly…
    If you are craving for honey and spices and don’t mind roses and mimosa, you should try Soir de Lune by Sisley. It also contains a peach note and some woods in the drydown. But be careful: Soir de Lune is a powerhouse, only apply a little and wait – it takes hours to develop.
    Prada Infusion d’Iris l’Eau D’Iris (this year’s flanker) is also worth a sniff, less citrus, mint and laurel instead. It is great in the summer and totally inoffensive.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:28 pm

      Thank you Martha! At the moment I *think* I like iris, but I’ve come across renditions of it I really dislike (Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir!). I should familiarize myself with Chanel no 19, I haven’t tried it before. And I did like the Sisley!

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  8. ladymurasaki says:
    14 October 2013 at 1:33 pm

    Serge Lutens Boxeuses
    Tom Ford Plum Japonaise
    DSH Perfumes Mirabella.
    Comme des Garçons Kyoto
    Satori by Parfum Satori (though only available in Japan from its online store) – a beautiful, light incense fragrance.
    Roja Dove Enigma and Danger

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    • ladymurasaki says:
      14 October 2013 at 1:35 pm

      Forgot to add L’Heure Bleue by Guelain.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:28 pm

      Thank you! Now, I just need to figure out how to sample Roja Dove fragrances, I’ve been hearing so much about them. :-)

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  9. Dilana says:
    14 October 2013 at 2:56 pm

    My favorite plum is Mon Cheri par Camille by Annick Goutal.
    Daim Blonde is a fine apricot leather, but you may find it heavy, so sniff first.
    A good “work place” fragrance might be Ambre Nue.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:30 pm

      Thanks Dilana. I have been meaning to try Mon Cheri per Camille because it gets a lot of comparisons with Rochas Femme.

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  10. kindcrow says:
    14 October 2013 at 3:00 pm

    Jacomo 08 has tea, spices, and dried fruit.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:32 pm

      Thank you for the suggestion, those notes sound right up my alley.

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  11. sweetgrass says:
    14 October 2013 at 3:54 pm

    Viktoria Minya Hedonist has a really nice osmanthus note, so that might be worth a try for you, as would The Different Company Osmanthus. I’d also recommend checking out Comme de Garcons Kyoto, and L’Artisan Timbuktu for incenses, and Lubin Idole EDP and L’Artisan Safran Troublant for spices.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:33 pm

      Thank you very much!
      I do like Timbuktu very much for the most part, but there is this weird sour note that pops up from time to time. Still, I enjoy my decant of it especially in this weather. And I will definitely look for your other suggestions.

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  12. austenfan says:
    14 October 2013 at 4:11 pm

    I second the TDC Bois d’Iris recommendation, a gorgeous scent, and the TDC Osmanthus.

    If you like Femme you might wish to try two other Roudnitska creations:
    Dior Diorella, although you may find the opening too citrusy.
    Editions de Parfums; Le Parfum de Thérèse, a pricy option but a beautiful one.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:38 pm

      Coincidentally, I tried Parfum de Therese recently, and loved it. Thank you for the rec. I want to try Diorella but I’ve heard that Dior fragrances have all gone through terrible reformulations… :(

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  13. Cybele says:
    14 October 2013 at 4:26 pm

    Have you tried Prada Infusion D’Iris Absolue (with the gold label)? smells much better than the original version in my opinion.
    Other recommendation for you: Serge Lutens Bois de Violette and Dior Bois D’Argent.

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    • Robin says:
      14 October 2013 at 4:43 pm

      Good point about the Prada, & I think it has less citrus too.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:41 pm

      Thanks so much for the rec! I am generally wary of flankers (unfairly I admit), but a less citrusy Infusion D’Iris sounds great. Will have to look for it!

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  14. Julia says:
    14 October 2013 at 5:52 pm

    So many great suggestions! I would add:
    – Parfums Delrae Mythique (Angela’s review says buttery iris and fresh, green suede with a breath of salt and also like leather chiffon underwear)
    – Guerlain Après L’Ondee (so beautiful it hurts)
    TDC Osmanthus
    Chanel Bois des Iles (plush sandalwood with a hint of gingerbread)
    M. Micallef Gaiac (wood, warm spices, vanilla, created for men but I like it too!)
    Fifi Chachinil (citrus, spices, amber, tobacco)
    Nanadebary (original pink) (ginger, spices, wood, vanilla balsam)
    Bond No. 9 Silver Factory (iris/incense)
    F. Malle Noir Epices (warm, fresh woody spices)

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:44 pm

      Julia, all these descriptions sound so appealing, especially Mythique! I do have Apres L’Ondee which I love. However, it disappears on my skin in a matter of minutes. I don’t know if it’s because I bought a tester bottle without cap, or if the fragrance is just like that.

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  15. sweetgrass says:
    14 October 2013 at 6:26 pm

    Just thought of a few others, since she mentions liking honey:

    Ginestet Botrytis
    Hermessence Ambre Narguile
    Delrae Amoureuse
    Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Mahjoun (this one also has the added benefit of being inexpensive)

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:46 pm

      Thank you for the suggestions! I did like Botrytis when I tried it, and I think my sample warrants a second try since it’s perfect weather for a rich warm honey scent. :)

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  16. morgana says:
    14 October 2013 at 9:00 pm

    I would suggest to try

    Les Nez — The Unicorn Spell
    Ormonde Jayne — Qi
    Hermes — Eua de Narcisse Bleu

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:48 pm

      Thank you for your suggestions, Morgana. Qi is one I wanted to sample, but it doesn’t seem available anymore…?

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  17. hajusuuri says:
    14 October 2013 at 11:34 pm

    – I second Serge Lutens Boxeuses
    – although I have not smelled it myself, I bet that Atelier Cologne Silver Iris will be absolutely fabulous
    – Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
    – Diptyque Volutes EDT and EDP
    – Le Labo Iris 39

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:51 pm

      Thank you for all the suggestions! Clearly there are many irises I still must sample.

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  18. Jillie says:
    15 October 2013 at 4:06 am

    For a realistic ginger, do try Origins Ginger Essence; it may seem a little lemony at first, but it does smell like the real thing, and is yummy. It’s almost aromatherapy, as it lifts your spirits! There is a whole line of products, and it comes as a milder, more citrusy Sensuous Skin Scent, or the stronger, more gingery Intensified version.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:54 pm

      I love slicing ginger when I’m cooking, because the aroma is so bright and almost vivacious :-) This fragrance sounds like a winner in my book.

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  19. Omega says:
    15 October 2013 at 5:40 am

    I first thought of An Evening Edged In Gold by Ineke.

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    • C.H. says:
      15 October 2013 at 10:48 am

      Oh yes–seconding.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:55 pm

      Just googled this, and the bottle is gorgeous! I’ll put it on my to-sample list, which is getting dangerously long.

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  20. Rappleyea says:
    15 October 2013 at 7:12 am

    My first thought for “woods and violet” was Sonoma Scent Studio’s Forest Walk. In fact there may be several SSS scents that would work for you from the list notes that you like. They all have excellent staying power and are very high quality for reasonable prices.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:56 pm

      Even the name of the fragrance is so evocative! Thank you for your recommendation.

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  21. capillary says:
    15 October 2013 at 6:34 pm

    Bois des Iles, Chanel, for woods, amber, iris. Le Parfum de Therese by Frederic Malle for a fantastically elegant woody plum and jasmine scent.

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 1:58 pm

      I love Le Parfum de Therese. :D Bois Des Iles is very beautiful as well, but I found it to be rather fleeting.

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  22. egabbert says:
    15 October 2013 at 11:45 pm

    You said Estee Lauder is not your friend, but I have a feeling you would really like Youth Dew Amber Nude.

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    • Cybele says:
      16 October 2013 at 1:14 pm

      yes, me too! And I love YDAN….

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    • sophiew says:
      21 October 2013 at 2:01 pm

      I found Sensuous rather nice, but not something I would spend money on! I hear that Youth Dew is quite different from a lot of EL’s other scents, which to me mostly smell like laundry detergent (there is trickle-down effect for you). I do like amber fragrances though. Thank you!

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  23. nanah says:
    26 October 2013 at 3:58 pm

    Iris: Atelier Cologne Silver Iris and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist.
    Asian heritage and black: definitely Kyoto.

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