• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme (2013 reissue) ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 2 October 2013 19 Comments

Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme advert

I’ll spare you the hand-wringing and damp eyes that often accompany discussions of the original 1999 version of Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme — there'll be little talk of the dreaded, but inevitable, reformulation, and no repetition of the glowing reviews of yore. As they say: what’s done is done…what’s gone is gone. Anyway, I don’t think I ever smelled the original version of Yohji Homme; if I did, I probably dismissed it immediately (fourteen years ago, I was not a lover of spicy fragrances).

Perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez developed Yohji Homme; perfumer Olivier Pescheux was assigned the task of updating the defunct Yohji Yamamoto perfume line for re-release. I wonder if Pescheux was nervous, given the widespread love of original Yohji Homme?

Yohji Yamamoto said of Yohji Homme: "The scent follows the funny off-track and avant-garde image of my fashion.” Quirkiness was certainly present in one of my favorite Yohji Homme ads — an old dog hiding behind a slender tree. Unbelievably, Yohji Homme lives up to Yamamoto’s statement; it IS off-track and avant-garde — like some of the more abstract fragrances created at Comme des Garçons (where Yamamoto’s ex-girlfriend Rei Kawakubo presides).

Yohji Homme* begins with a burst of bergamot-juniper berry that segues quickly into a “meaty” sage note (not “green” and crisp but more “celadon” and tough in character). The heart of Yohji Homme presents percolating coffee, and this brew was made with beans charred on a bed of peat; the coffee has a slightly smoky, leathery aroma. Oh, and there are bitter chocolate and “burning-popcorn” moments as well.

That’s what happened on Yohji Homme Test Day No. 1.

On the second day I wore Yohji Homme, the fragrance started off with a burnt brown-sugar scent, with added notes of pine-cedar and licorice. Coffee was present...but waaaaaaaay in the background. Yohji Homme, on day number two, was a sweet, spicy/talcy wood perfume: handsome and comfortable.

On the third day I wore Yohji Homme, I smelled of liquor-y cardamom and licorice with vibrant cedar, sage-y musk, and patchouli. Again: enjoyable.

Either Yohji Homme is 1. unstable; 2. reacting to my skin in a weird way; or 3. designed to provide a variety of "presentations" (maybe that’s what is off-kilter and avant-garde about the perfume — it shifts and sways and surprises like the many layers, apparent and obscure, in Yamamoto’s fashions).

I liked all the permutations of Yohji Homme; it’s an ephemeral perfume, lasting about four hours before becoming so faint I have to put nose to skin to detect it. While it lasts, Yohji Homme has good sillage

As I said, I have no idea how today’s Yohji Homme stacks up against the original version; do comment if you’ve worn both fragrances.

Buyer Beware: now that Yohji Homme has been reissued in the same bottle design as the original, be careful when buying online; what you THINK is the older version of Yohji Homme may be the reformulated fragrance.

Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Homme is currently available in the U.K. at Selfridges & Co.: in 30 ml (£35), 50 ml (£45) and 100 ml (£65) Eau de Toilette.

*listed fragrance notes of bergamot, juniper berry, sage, cardamom, licorice, geranium, rum, mocha coffee, cedar, leather, patchouli and musk.

Possibly of interest

Yohji Yamamoto Essential (2013 reissue) ~ fragrance review
Yohji Yamamoto Her Love Story & His Love Story ~ new fragrances
Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Senses ~ new fragrance

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: olivier pescheux, yohji yamamoto

Advertisement


19 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. relleric says:
    2 October 2013 at 1:08 pm

    Was both looking forward to and dreading the announcement of a re-release, since I splurged last year on the original.
    While I admire it a lot, I don’t believe it was worth what I paid for it, and fortunately I cannot remember how much.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      2 October 2013 at 1:30 pm

      Relleric, no doubt you’ll remember in the middle of the night

      Log in to Reply
      • relleric says:
        2 October 2013 at 1:54 pm

        Well, I had to go looking through order history, turns out I paid $149.99 for 1.7oz EDT with aftershave balm included. I would still like to sample the new version, provided it becomes widely available in the US.

        Log in to Reply
        • Kevin says:
          2 October 2013 at 4:12 pm

          Relleric: Yikes! So about double what it’s selling for now. Could have been worse I guess!

          Log in to Reply
  2. eaudemale says:
    2 October 2013 at 1:11 pm

    I recall most of these being the same notes as the vintage one, which you could find with big discounts in the early 00s, powerful fluid, I used to call it “2 sprays of Au Masculine and one Amen”… I wonder how reformulated it is… Great review, Kevin.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      2 October 2013 at 1:31 pm

      Eaudemale, it is certainly not that powerful now

      Log in to Reply
  3. Janice says:
    2 October 2013 at 1:32 pm

    Have you heard if or when it might be available in the US?

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      2 October 2013 at 4:12 pm

      Janice: No word…

      Log in to Reply
  4. annemarie says:
    2 October 2013 at 5:16 pm

    Really enjoyable review, thanks. Hopefully your alternative 3 holds good, that the fragrance has several presentations. I’d love to smell it if I get the chance, now that I’m curious. I don’t wear masculine fragrances much – and this one sounds very masculine – because even if I like them wearing them always feels wrong. (This was confirmed for me the other day when I took Grey Flannel out for a spin. Nope. Felt like I was driving someone else’s car.)

    I’m curious about the chain of decisions that led to the revival of Yohji Homme, I mean, if it could happen to Yohji Homme, could it happen to Theorema, or Cuir de Lancome? Sigh. No, I guess not. Nice to dream though.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      2 October 2013 at 7:17 pm

      Annemarie: dream on! It could always happen….

      Log in to Reply
  5. Louise says:
    2 October 2013 at 6:58 pm

    Any word on a re-release of the ladies Yohji? I have backstocked a bottle, but curious what the new one will do. I lurve the original.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      2 October 2013 at 7:17 pm

      Louise: I believe all Yohji fragrances have been re-released. I got samples of the entire line.

      Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      2 October 2013 at 7:22 pm

      Louise: just checked and have these, reissued or new: 1. Yohji Senses, 2. Yohji Essential 3. Yohji Yamamoto Eau de Parfum (short rectangle bottle) and 4. Yohji Eau de Toilette (tall/skinny bottle)

      Log in to Reply
  6. hajusuuri says:
    2 October 2013 at 11:12 pm

    Your description makes it sound very appealing!

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      3 October 2013 at 12:57 am

      Hajusuuri: it’s a fun scent.

      Log in to Reply
  7. nozknoz says:
    3 October 2013 at 12:09 am

    I have the original (because it was one of the 5-star scents in The Guide) and test it about once a year. It’s one of the few good perfumes that smells too masculine for me to wear, even just around the house. I’ve never noticed it to be changeable, but then I’ve never worn it two days in a row, either.

    It looks like the bottles are the same but the caps are different. You can see in the photo of the original that it was a simple matte silver spray with a kind of weird lever clasp (not sure how to explain – mine broke off immediately and got lost).

    It’s aways good news when they bring something back and don’t ruin it.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      3 October 2013 at 12:59 am

      Noz: I wish you could try the new one to see how it compares…and report back!

      Log in to Reply
  8. nancyg says:
    3 October 2013 at 9:28 pm

    I got a couple sample vials of the original via eBay after reading Luca’s book. I have one left and will save until I can try the new one. It does sound interesting and I’d be happy with any of your 3 days.

    Log in to Reply
  9. Petitgrain says:
    8 October 2013 at 8:19 am

    My partner absolutely adores this one. We had plenty of old bottles over the years.
    When I tried the new one, I think it lacked some oomf of the original one. I feel that it is modified but not to the extent of completely losing the original character.
    Selfridges in London have this in stock at the moment. They also have an offer, if you buy a 100ml bottle you get a 10 ml bottle free. I also got additional 10ml worth of samples of the same Yohji Homme. My partner is very happy :-)

    Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

Browse by…

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

February 2021
January 2021
December 2020
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

From NST at Twitter

  • I am a day late but you can still enter: "Kraft Singles is giving away grilled cheese-scented incense to celebrate… https://t.co/8T64EZUJmy,
  • @Counselor_Gal44 I don't always, but I really like these bottles so I hope I like at least one of this set!,

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

24 April ~ swapmeet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2021 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.