Today we're helping Jennifer, who "jumped into" perfume obsession about 2 years ago. She's willing to pay any amount for a perfume she loves, but doesn't own many full bottles as she is selective about purchases. She has good access to stores and is happy to order samples online.
Jennifer would like recommendations for both daily wear and special occasion scents. She'd especially love to find an incense scent with light feminine touches; she's also interested in light gourmand scents, or anything else you really think she should try. Here is what we know about Jennifer:
She's in her late 30s and lives in the San Francisco Bay Area.
She's a veterinarian by trade but an artist at heart.
She loves to see (or smell!) the beauty in all things. She loves to paint, draw, hike, listen to music, or just create with her friends and family.
She has been described as "elegant with an edge" and would like to to smell like that description.
Jennifer likes well-blended, strong, long-lasting scents that are creamy, milky, sandalwood-y, but with some "dirt" (tobacco, leather, incense) or soft woods/spicy notes and a touch of femininity or softness - a touch of floral or citrus or aquatic or light vanilla or honey notes. Tuberose and orange blossom are the main floral notes she can wear. Perfumes she loves include Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule (creamy sandalwood and soft spices with the hint of amaretto/rose), Hermès Elixir de Merveilles (deliciously, edibly, other-wordly), Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande (the scent of dreams with its spicy incense and gorgeous lavender), Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque (but she doesn't own it), Bvlgari Omnia (soft chocolate and spices) and the Comme des Garçons Incense series (especially Avignon, but she has not bought any because they are too fleeting).
She doesn't care for overbearing florals/soliflores or aldehydic florals or scents that are too overwhelmingly vanilla-laden. Prominent jasmine, violet, iris, lily and carnation notes don't work for her, though she likes them in small amounts or blended in, or on someone else. She also dislikes fragrances that are too weak or fleeting. She likes Frederic Malle Carnal Flower (the lushness of it) but not Robert Piguet Fracas (cloying for her).
Here are some of the fragrances Jennifer has tried:
Frederic Malle: she has tried nearly the whole line. She adores them, but some she cannot wear. She particularly likes Parfum de Therese, Carnal Flower and L'eau D'Hiver (just a bit to powdery/wispy).
Serge Lutens: again, she has tried nearly all. She likes most of them for the intensity and the individual journey of each one, but dislikes Rahat Loukoum the most. Favorites include De Profundis, Encens et Lavande, Santal Majuscule, Fumerie Turque.
Etat Libre D'Orange: Some of them seem too contrived or artificial, but she does like Fils de Dieu (milky, soft, rice-like).
Annick Goutal: she has tried many of them. She does own Mandragore though she only wears it in hot weather and it sometimes smells too mature on her. She also likes Eau de Camille (the green honeysuckle, so sweet and pretty, though maybe too sweet and pretty to be worn too often) and Eau de Charlotte (she loves the gourmand aspect of the blackcurrant and cocoa).
L'Artisan Vanille Absolument (formerly Havana Vanille): she instantly loved it, bought a whole bottle, and has been wearing it daily for over a month. She thought that she didn't like vanilla so much, but loves that it's comforting, wearable (not too much for everyday activities) and yet interesting all at the same time.
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
A few different ideas for, variously, incense, sandalwood, and/or ambivalence on vanilla (a sentiment I share!):
Diptyque Tam Dao and Eau Duelle
Le Labo Vanille 44
Hermes Santal Massoia
Tauer L’Air du desert marocain
Marni
Lubin Korrigan
Diptyque Tam Dao for sandalwood, Diptyque Volutes for a feminine and a bit on the smokey side (I tried both Volutes and Eau Duelle this weekend and may be switching them. Why not try both?), Diptyque Philosykos for a creamy fig scent that has a bit of a dirt-like effect.
10 Corso Como for sandalwood.
Eau D’Italie Bois d’Ombrie may also work. Luckyscent puts it all the way on the masculine end of the scale but I completely disagree and found it to be very feminine.
Chanel 1932 might work for her. Sandalwood, incense, beautiful floral
Perfumes Jennifer should try:
Marni by Marni
Estee Lauder Sensuous
Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Lolita Lempicka EDP
Jean Paul Gaultier Classique EDP
Oh yes, cosigning both the Sensuous options as well as the Jasmin Noir.
Maybe some Parfums de Nicolaï fragrances?
She has two vanillas. My bet is that you would find Vanille Intense too sweet but might be attracted to Vanille Tonka, which is much less sweet and has a lot of incense.
Sacrebleu. I am only familiar with the original. These days a Sacrebleu intense is available. Luckyscent has samples.
Ormonde Woman. A Green Scent on a woody base. Sort of the whole forest. Ormonde Jayne has a good sample set, and she has some other beauties in the line, so it might be worth getting just that.
Lumière Blanche is a soft woody scent. Olfactive Studio has a good sample set as well. I haven’t tried any of the others but have heard good things about them.
Definitely order some Sonoma Scent Studio samples: Incense Pure, Tabac Aurea, and Champagne de Bois. Sounds like what you are looking for and they offer great bang for buck.
Teo Cabanel Alahine is a gorgeous amber with floral and citrus notes.
Also, Cuir de Lancome for a lightly floral leather with resinous base.
Seconding the Sonoma Scent Studio perfumes especially Champagne de Bois.
seconding Diptyque Volutes for tobacco. It was one of the first things I thought of. Also, Prada Candy for something a little sweeter, but not too sweet, for daytime. Donna Karan Black Cashmere for incense (I actually thought it was more of a tobacco frag until I learned it was an incense one from reading blogs).
Guerlain L’instant pour homme EDP version, not EDT. So cozy and rich.
Some of your favorites are my favorites too! I second the Olfactive Studio’s Lumiere Blanche – a coriander spiced scent with a lovely sandalwood dry down. Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s APOM for her is one of my favorite orange blossoms even though I’m not typically an orange blossom fan. Guerlain’s Bois d’Armenie is a lovely incensy-boozy vanilla. Although you noted that iris prominent frags may not be your thing, Aedes de Venustas’ Iris Nazarena is a beautiful iris/incense that’s fitting of the description “elegant with an edge.”
Hi Jennifer, try some By Kilians: Back to Black, Sweet Redemption, Amber Oud, Incense Oud. Also, you might like Chanel Coromandel, Bois de Iles, Donna Karan Signiture and Chaos. Marni and Tom Ford Sahara Noir are feminin incense scents.
Seconding the Amber Oud! It’s def got that luscious creamy thing going on. I got a sample vial at Luckyscent and I’m going to cry (or maybe my checkbook will cry) when it runs out.
Elegance? Lives in San Francisco? How about DelRae’s Mythique – i know its iris, but it doesnt come off as floral, and its also leather
Hi Jennifer–How about Aftelier’s Cepes et Tuberose? The scent is as long-lasting as Lutens and the mushroom adds a woody, earthy base to the lovely tuberose. Plus, she’s in Berkeley so fast delivery to you.
Oops–hit “enter” too soon. I meant to add that I read somewhere here about layering CdG Avignon with vanilla, to create incense with a twist. Any of the CdG incenses would probably work.
Second time today I’ve suggested AP’s Safran Troublant….
Nice one, cosign!
Xerjoff Richwood
Amouage Memoir Woman and Epic
Second Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure and Champagne du Bois
Incense Extreme by Andy Tauer
Trayee by Neela Vermeire
10 Corso Como
Cardinal by Heeley
Ambra Aurea by Profumum
For everyday, Bronze Goddess (creamy coconut gardenia beachy bliss) then going out after; Truth or Dare (sort of creamy toned down Fracas), also you must try Organza Indecence and Kenzo Amour, the one in the gold bottle – these two are related and I prefer the OI.
I know it has violet but to me it’s all almonds… and is therefore connected to Eau d’Hiver, try Après l’Ondee. It’s incredible and much more presence.
Vetiver Tonka. Perfect anytime.
Finally for subtle leather sophistication; Bottega Veneta.
Lauder Sensuous
Lauder Tuberose Gardenia
Lancome Hypnose Senses
SSS Champagne de Bois
Fracas
ineke Field Notes
L’Artisan Traversee du Bosphore
Ineke Field Noted from Paris
Soory- that should read “Field Notes from Paris”!
I give up.
This is a bold suggestion, but if you like a powerhouse that lasts, and is beautiful but in an odd day, try M Francis Kurdjian’s Absolue Pour le Soir. Altas cedar, cumin, and ylang ylang. It’s totally unique. The Cologne Pour le Soir is the same, only less intense. It’s a love it or hate it, but try it sometime you’re in a Neiman Marcus. It has an earthiness that a vet might either love or think it’s a busman’s holiday.
I wear it when I ride and work cows. Along with Bal a Versailles. I love dirty.
Failing that, I second L’Air du Desert Marocain.
Best of luck to you.
Seconding Ormonde Woman – it would be perfect!
Wow, thanks everyone for these amazing suggestions. I can’t wait to get some samples and try them. I really appreciate all of your help. It’s so fun to hear about all of these new-to-me perfumes! – Jennifer
I think these might be worth a try for you:
Tauer Incense Rose
Atelier Cologne Gold Leather
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche
Hermes Ambre Narguile
Lubin Idole edp
Ginestet Botrytis
seville à l’aube for orange blossom, incensy-gormandish notes, general lushness and persistance
“An incense scent with light feminine touches”–How about Etro Shaal Nur? On me, it has good longevity and presence.
Kelly Caleche
Seville à l’aube
Perhaps Jardin Sur le nil
Enjoy your search!
For something lighter with incense, orange blossom and touches of frankincense and musk, I suggest Maison Martin Margiela: Untitled.
For something warm with chocolate, tobacco, leather and a great fall comfort scent, I suggest Parfumerie Generale: Coze.
For something creamy with tuberose, woods and an earthy base, I suggest Strange Invisible Perfumes: Fire and Cream.
Best of luck!
My favorite light and feminine but relatively long lasting incense scents are Cabaret by Gres and Infusion d’Iris by Prada. Sometimes, particularly in the fall/winter, I emphasize the incense by layering with a little SSS Incense Pure (also wonderful on its own).
SL Daim Blond, or its mass market version Bottega Veneta.
she may want to try Narciso Rodriguez essence musk, it’s milky and soft with a bit of “dirt” (just a little bit)
Also possibly Juliette Has a Gun – Not a Perfume.
Seconding a few I saw above which are in my top 10 faves:
Tauer L’air du desert marocain (whole line is worth checking out)
L’Artisan Safran Troublant (ditto)
Ormonde Jayne Woman (times a million)
Donna Karan Black Cashmere
Adding:
Montale Patchouli Leaves.
Wearing this now, it is earthy, a little dirty, sweet but not cloying to me, incense-y, a play of warm and cool with some freshness like leaves and some dry warmth like vanillic woods. Awesome for fall.
Montale Indian Saffron.
Love it but don’t own a bottle because it’s expensive. Raw earthy dirty saffronny goodness, it isn’t nearly as sweet as Safran Troublant.
Caron Parfum Sacre.
It has florals but they’re blended in a Caron-accord with a peppery myrrh-y incense. Might not work but worth a sniff…
Caron Pour un Homme.
Lavender and vanilla, pretty simple but I love the balance of this, it always feels fresh but relaxing and not sharp, the warmth and sweetness never become too cloying because of the herbal lavender.
Also:
Treazon by Ayala Moriel is an awesome tuberose, Fendi Theorema is a transparent orange-y oriental, O Alquimista is a kind of beeswaxy I don’t even know but I love it, Frapin 1270 (original bottle) is sweet and woody and honeyed and boozy and great.