Today we're helping Bedo, who wants to find a new everyday scent for fall and winter. She'd like something with oomph and staying power, and since she is far from good stores, she wants to shop online. Right now she's interested in buying samples from niche houses or niche retailers— if you have suggestions for what she might try, you might also list the place where she could buy a sample. Here is what we know about Bedo:
She's in her early 60s and works with computers.
She lives in the woods in the upper Midwest.
She thinks of herself as an artist, potter and gardener.
Bedo wore Chanel No. 5 for many years, and more recently, Guerlain Samsara, but now they don't smell as appealing as they used to. She also adores Diorissimo, but it doesn't last on her skin. She recently used up a small bottle of Jour d’Hermès, which smelled lovely but also didn't last. Her husband is fonder of Cashmere Mist that she is, but she wears it happily at home for him.
Bedo loves sandalwood and amber and leather and vanilla and nutmeg and fresh flowers, especially lily of the valley, linden, carnation, honeysuckle and roses. Citrus is ok in moderation, but it's often zingy and irritating.
She is very allergic to tobacco, and just doesn't like patchouli, which always smells moldy to her. The whole candied fruity arena holds no attractions, and she finds lily irritating. Some jasmines are lovely, but some smell sort of rancid. Tuberose and gardenia also often smell "off."
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
Greetings Bedo! I am also a passionate gardener and have over 200 Bonsai in various stages of development plus a wide variety of flora planted in the yard. I do not have ready access to niche fragrances but can recommend several that would be easier for you to obtain. For a vanilla amber powerhouse, Thierry Muglar Alien Absolue. Pacifica’s Island Vanilla is excellent. You might want to try Bvlgari Black, with it’s amber and incense base. Some people find it fades a bit, but I pump it up by layering it with Island Vanilla lotion. If you find that perfect Linden fragrance, let me know!
Tuscany Per Donna, EL
Sensuous EL
Tam Dao
Coco Chanel
Un Fleur De Cassie-Malle
Must De Cartier
Hi, stinker_kit – I will look for Alien Absolue – hadn’t heard about it.
Hi Omega, thanks for reminding me of Must de Cartier, I did have some of that, a couple decades ago when it first came out! The generosity of the people who post here is just wonderful.
I would suggest Cuir Noir by Giorgio Armani. I think it has almost everything that Bedo wants, even the nutmeg
And the rose is supposedly also strong there.
But apart of that I would also suggest that she tries the already mentioned Must de Cartier and maybe she could also try K de Krizia?
Hi Bedo, sounds like many Jo Malones might work for you, including Vanilla and Anise, French Lime Blossom (gorgeous linden flower), Red Roses, and maybe Nutmeg and Ginger. You also might try Diptyque’s Eau Duelle (light vanilla and tea with some spice), Vanille Insensee by Atelier, Prada L’eau Ambree, Bulgari Omnia (the original one in the brown box, which is discontinued but still easy to find at online discounters. It’s a chai tea type scent). Good luck!
Do you like cardomon as well as nutmeg? Then I would recomend D600. The brand also has an excellent leather.
But for leather and florals, you may also wish to try Hermes Calache.
Pretty Machine by Kerosene is a fine linden (Min New York carries it. They sell samples).
Bedo, my first thoughts for you were Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman and Ambre Russe. Both are huge scents, in the Cuir Ottoman, leather, iris and jasmine and in the Ambre Russe, more amber, vanilla, booze and leather with spices. In a more floral thought, Amouage’s Ubar is a symphonic floral, with jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and a biting animalic civet base that makes it no shy thing. All three scents last for hours on my skin, and less is more! All three can be sampled through Luckyscent or MiN New York or at online decanting services. Happy hunting! Be well.
Oooh. Ubar could be just the thing!
I suggest Havana Vanille by L’artisan- I am pretty sure you can get a sample from the L’artisan site, the perfumed court and surrender to chance, and maybe luckyscent. (I am remembering reading they changed the name, so need to google what it is now called!)
Havana Vanille changed to Vanille Absolument.
maybe because I’m trying it today: Dries van Noten, ed F. Malle. I would also also recommend a Parfumerie Generale sampler
I like the spice in Dries van Norten–but I wonder if it’s too quiet?
Second the Parfumerie General sampler – try L’Ombre Fauve for amber-y goodness. Bottega Veneta – both the original and the Eau Legere – would give you a lovely leathery note. Byredo’s Gypsy Water is sandalwood and vanilla and very nice (if pricey). The Cashmere Mist flankers – Gold and Pearl – are a bit more interesting than the original, I think. Finally, try Ormonde Jayne Woman – I think you’d love its woody complexity.
Angela Flanders does a gorgeous Sandalwood, No5 in her Artillery Range. Soft, creamy and rich. Love it! Check out her Ambre Noire while you’re at it too. And her Lily of The Valley, which is one of the freshest and most photo-realistic I’ve come across.
My favourite leather is Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleurs. Recommend you give it a go. It’s very fresh and violet-leafy, not like most other heavy leathers.
Thirding a Parfumerie Generale sampler. Cuir Venenum is great for orange blossom and leather, Coze for vanilla and smoke, and Un Crime Exotique is sweet spiced chai-like scent.
I think Histoires de Parfums 1740 might be a good one for you too, with leather and immortelle.
Rossy de Palma and Putain de Palaces by Etat Libre d’Orange are great rose scents that might be worth a try as well. They’re very different from each other. RdP is darker and leatherier, and PdP is sweeter but has a civety edge to it.
I know theses aren’t niche, but they seem to fit perfectly:
Serge Lutens Daim Blond, Cuir de Lancome, Chanel Bois de Iles and Cuir de Russie, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche, Guerlain Jasminora, Caron Parfum Sacre, Rochas Tocade.
Sonoma Scent Studio has a wonderful sandalwood (Champagne de Bois) and also amber (Ambre Noir) plus other woody scents that are perfect for fall. The Incense Pure is fabulous. They also sell samples online for a reasonable price and will provide useful recommendations and advice if you send an email describing your fragrance interests. That’s what I did and I ended up loving each of the nine samples I ordered based on the perfumer’s suggestions! Hard to decide which ones to order FBs of.
How about Banfit for a leather note?
Bandit.
Hi Bedo – you could order a Tauer perfumes discovery sample set. For lily of the valley – carillon pour un ange is beautiful and Zeta has linden in it. There are some lovely rose based ones as well. Also second SSS and would add Spiced Citrus Vetiver and Cocoa Sandalwood from that line. I’m sampling Felanilla ATM and it is a powdery, unusual vanilla. DSH Vanilla Botanique is also yummy.
Hello Bedo! As a fellow gardener and potter in the woods, I have to recommend Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Toit, though it isn’t the spicy ambery type of scent you requested. It offers a fresh green earthiness, which seems like it might mirror your lifestyle in an honest way. I know I feel “authentic” in it.
Provence Sante makes a very nice Linden EDT, and the matching soap is delicious.
When I read the “loves” I immediately thought of Tabac Blond (for leather, vanilla, linden, carnation, and rose); however the next paragraph (“She is very allergic to tobacco, and just doesn’t like patchouli”) knocked it out of the running. However, while I am thinking about the Carons, Bellodgia, En Avion, Nuit de Noel, and Muguet de Bonheur might be worth a try.
Moving on to other houses, Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque, Ormonde Jayne Tolu, Teo Cabanel Alahine and Oha, Cacharel pour Homme (for the nutmeg!) and maybe Donna Karan Chaos might be worth a sniff.
– Spicy and natural rose: Noble Rose of Afghanistan by the 7 Virtues. The Perfumed Court has samples.
– Carnation and vanilla: Terracotta Voile d’Ete by Guerlain. No longer in production, but available on-line, and not expensive.
– Laboissiere Carnation Eau de Toilette. Just carnation. Available from Hampton Court. Just search by “Hampton Court perfume” and you’ll find the site.
– i Profumi di Firenze – Vaniglia del Madagascar. VERY good vanilla.
– Kevin of NST has some linden fragrance review at https://nstperfume.com/2013/06/05/frau-tonis-parfum-linde-berlin-no-10-parfums-dorsay-tilleul-pour-la-nuit-fragrance-reviews/ and https://nstperfume.com/2013/07/31/kerosene-pretty-machine-fragrance-review/.
Happy sniffing!
Oh, and Eau des Baux by L`Occitane is a good spicy, woody vanilla.
I would like to suggest Annick Goutal Heure Exquise – iris, rose, galbanum, sandalwood and vanilla at least. I happen to be wearing this today and I think it would fit to your descriptions quite nicely. Not really oomphy, but has beautiful presence.
A bit of old world feel and sophistication.
Byredo Gypsy water.
Has most of her favorite notes and is niche and unique.
Ambra del Nepal by iProfumi de Profenze
Prada Amber is decent
So many wonderful suggestions! Some I have heard or read about and sort of had on a list already, like Ubar and Vanille Insee, but all these suggestions will keep me busy for a while! Thanks everyone for your lovely ideas!
So many wonderful suggestions! Some I have heard or read about and sort of had on a list already, like Ubar and Vanille Insee, but all these suggestions will keep me busy for a while! Thanks everyone for your lovely ideas
Hmm, my internet connection kicked out – I will repost this – sorry if it is a duplicate…