This will be the last Monday Mail post before summer break. If you'd like to get on the waiting list for September (it's very short at the moment), do follow the instructions here.
Today we're helping Caroline, who wants to find her perfect everyday scent, something she will be comfortable with and attracted to. Something suited to cooler weather would be best, as she is in the process of relocating to a colder city. She is happy to shop online, and can spend up to about $150.
Caroline is a writer in her early 30s. She lives in Australia.
She is quiet, but passionate about many things, and a bit of a gypsy — she has moved around a fair bit, and loves discovering new places and stories.
She's a big fan of travel, mystery/spy novels, good conversation, rainy days and too much coffee.
Caroline likes balmy, resinous, and soft oriental notes — ambergris, musks and vanilla. She also likes oakmoss, warm leather, the scent of old books and/or tobacco (she quite likes vintage Caron Tabac Blond), sandalwood, ylang ylang, and spices, particularly cinnamon. She has always been particularly drawn to woody orientals, like Guerlain Samsara or Mitsouko. Her perfect fragrance will be warm and comforting, and a bit mysterious, but perhaps not too heavy on the smoke/amber side of things.
Caroline doesn't like strong floral bouquets (Dior Poison, Giorgio Beverly Hills), sweet gourmand or very fruity scents, light candy notes (Thierry Mugler Angel), light citrus or simple oceanic fragrances (Annick Goutal Eau D'Hadrien). She also doesn't care for sharp spicy orientals (Chanel Coco) or very sweet orientals (Estee Lauder Youth Dew) — she prefers soft orientals with vanilla undertones, maybe a bit of dirt in them.
Here are some of the perfumes she has tried:
Shiseido Féminité du Bois: The fruit and spice marriage is too sweet (same with Dior Dolce Vita).
Chanel Bois des Iles: Close to what she is looking for, but too much sandalwood.
Caron Tabac Blond: she loves the vintage, but it's difficult to obtain. The new version is too sharp at the beginning, and the vanilla/tobacco softness in the base doesn't last.
Guerlain Shalimar: she appreciates it, but Mitsouko seems to have more mystery about it - she gets what Luca Turin meant when he said Shalimar was very plush and refined. She wants something a bit different.
Caron En Avion: She loves the leather, but the orange blossom dominates too much.
Dolce and Gabbana Original (Woman): Beautiful muskiness, but white flowers are too dominant.
Several Serge Lutens (Chergui, Filles En Aiguilles): Too syrupy and sweet.
Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque: Too much smoke, too heavy.
Dior Dune: She liked it moderately, but it gave her a headache.
L'Artisan Parfumeur Patchouli Patch: The patchouli was too strong, smelled very 'grassy'. Patchouli on its own is too much of one thing.
What say you?