Today we're helping Lucia, who says she has worn perfume all her life but is a relative newbie to more serious exploration — her mother only wore Guerlain so that is where she started, and she has only recently begun to branch out. She'd like to know what is out there beyond mainstream fragrances, and her immediate goal is a signature scent for spring and summer. Here is what we know about Lucia:
She's in her late 20's and lives in the northeast US.
She says she is a driven and outgoing person when it comes to work, but tends to spend her down time with only a few close friends or a good book.
She likes almost every kind of music and loves to dance; she regularly goes to the ballet (and to ballet class).
Her wardrobe vacillates between classic/tailored and flowy bohemian.
Lucia isn't sure what notes she likes, but her ideal warm weather perfume would be green and fresh to start — but not too citrusy — then settle into a wistful, old fashioned floral (but not too sweet and still greenish) with a deep woodsy base. It should also be substantial and have good lasting power. In mood, it should be confident, but thoughtful and intimate. And it should still be in production — she already spends too much on tracking down vintage Guerlains.
Lucia doesn't like loud orientals, anything that smells like incense, overly sweet or fruity perfumes or aquatics, heavy rose or heavy vanilla. "No" perfumes include Lancome Tresor and Yves Saint Laurent Paris.
Here are some of the perfumes Lucia likes and wears:
Guerlain Apres l'Ondee: Her ideal "wistful, old-fashioned" floral. Unfortunately it doesn't last long in Eau de Toilette, and she'd prefer something brighter for everyday wear.
Guerlain Chamade Eau de Cologne: She wears wear this a lot, but the floral combo is not quite what she is looking for.
Guerlain Mitsouko: Her signature fall/winter scent. She loves the peach note here, but has usually disliked fruit notes in other perfumes.
Dior Diorissimo: She loves lily-of-the-valley, but it's very one-note — she's prefer something more complex.
Miss Dior (old version): she likes it, but finds the opening too sharp and the ending too weak.
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon: Almost perfect, but very short lived in the Eau de Toilette, and she'd like to know if it can be found in Parfum.
Yves Saint Laurent M7: She loves this on men.
And here are a few perfumes she has tried recently:
Frederic Malle En Passant: Lovely burst of lilac fades quickly into a dominant cucumber, which she didn't like so much.
Frederic Malle L'eau d'Hiver: No lasting power.
Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady: This rose worked for her. She didn't like the dry down, but she might consider wearing this sometime — but it didn't seem like spring to her.
Frederic Malle Parfum de Therese: Surprise love! But she has yet to go back and try it on skin.
Hanae Mori Butterfly: Everything she dislikes in a perfume and impossible to wash off.
Tom Ford Neroli Portofino: Very clean and pleasant, but not distinctive. Felt like she'd showered with a really nice soap.
What say you?
Note: top image is Number 24 [cropped] by thristian at flickr; some rights reserved.
Chanel #19?
I second no. 19, and perhaps Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’eau.
Seconding/thirding both, as applicable
and just want to add, could be worth trying l’Ombre in both EDT and EDP if possible. The EDT’s greener and lighter on the rose, but the EDP has more oompf, so if some things have been too light…
(And despite the word “water” being in the name I don’t find either especially aquatic but maybe others will weigh in with different opinion?)
Ineke’s After My Heart is a Niche lilac which does not settle into cucumber. Her Derring Do is a long last citrus. I suggest you start with the coffret available from her web site.
For a more complicated Lilly of the Valley, I would try Commes Des Garconnesm “White”
For a Green Summer scent, I would try Atalier Cologne- a long lasting “clover.”
M7, which you say you like on Men was one of the first “oud’ fragrances, so you might want to explore more femmine oud’s.
Finally, you may want to give L’Artisan’s “Seville D’Aube” a sniff. Although you don’t like incenses, the orange blossom in this scent could give you an idea of a fresh scent without actual citrrus.
Seconding After My Own Heart–will note that both it and Seville are both a little sweeter than I usually go for, but especially for AMOH, it’s so beautiful I don’t care!
Jean Patou Joy has a green opening and dries down to an “old fashioned” floral. I think it would be a wonderful spring/summer scent. It does have rose listed in the ingredients but I don’t find the rose to be a dominant note at all.
Seconded–I don’t find it a heavy rose at all, great idea for floral for someone who’s into the classics.
I will third Chanel #19… I would also suggest Parfum de Nicolaï’s Le Temps d’une Fête, which is a green floral that is sometimes compared to Chamade and yet there are differences, as well as Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, which is floral with light spices and is available in a few different concentrations, so you could see which one you like.
Seconding Le Temps d’une Fete, plus DSH’s Vert Pour Madame. And try 31 RC over a rich unscented lotion.
Thirding Le Temps. And Lucia might be interested to know that Patricia de Nicolai is from the Guerlain family.
Another vote for Le Temps d’Une Fete. Exploring the Parfums de Nicolai line might be something Lucia would like to do in general. Rose Pivoine and Weekend at Deauville are nice florals too, though not esp. green.
Ooh, yes to Vert pour Madame! I knew I’d omitted one of my favorite green chypres.
I was thinking Le temps d’une fete, too.
How about Iskander from Parfum d’Empire. It’s a hesperidic chypre. Citrusy in the opening, then warm, spicy with a mossy base.
Try Parfums DelRae Debut, try a decant first – it has interesting effects on the right skin. There’s some big citrus up front but it quickly melds into a confident LOTV floral that takes cues from classics like Diorissimo but is more modern, maybe more deconstructed.
Seconding Debut!
Hi Lucia, if you’re a Guerlain devotee you’ve probably already tried this but just in case not–Jardins de Bagatelle is a very spring/summer-appropriate lightly woodsy floral. Worth a shot, I think!
Oh–also, I haven’t smelled it but if you like lily-of-the-valley, seems like the new Guerlain Muguet is def a thing to try! (Although I’m just now looking at the price, wow, that is kind of brutal!)
Oh, also you might try Givenchy Le De, altho I have no idea what kind of shape the current version is in. Green top, genteel floral heart, soft woody base.
Speaking of Duchaufour (because, really, when aren’t we?), maybe the new Aedes de Venustas? The sharp rhubarb beginning and then incense…?
Seconding Le Temps d’Une Fete and fourthing/fifthing No. 19. Sniff Cristalle EDT while you’re in Chanel-land, too, though it might be too much citrus.
Jacomo Silences immediately came to mind, though I’m not sure what the current version smells like (I have some older parfum de toilette). I hear that Carven Ma Griffe is still in decent shape, and is widely available for a song. And Estee Lauder Private Collection (the original) is well worth a sniff; perhaps also Aliage, though that one doesn’t work on me so I’m not in a great position to sing its praises.
Sounds like you’re a chypre lover! I suggest Jour Ensolleile from Sonoma Scent Studio. Beautiful old-fashioned floral with a woodsy base; smells like a sunny day.
I think I often agree with you eggabert? I was thinking the same: a chypre lover! There would be a long list for those, not all start of very greenish, though. My suggestions: une folie de rose , ormonde woman, bottega veneta, check out for others! I agree with the le temps d’une fête recs. Otherwise: greenish but not citrussy – check out vetiver-heavy scents (e.g. today I’m wearing escentric molecules 03)
Well hi and thanks for agreeing!
Ormonde Woman could definitely work.
I agree with nr 19, Silences, Ma Griffe, EL Private Collection, and add to those: Ivoire de Balmain (there are two versions now: the cheap old one, which smells great, and the more expensive new one that I haven’t sniffed yet), also Jolie Madame de Balmain, Niki de St Phalle. As far as Guerlain is concerned: apart from Jardins de Bagatelle, which I find a great suggestion, it might be interesting to try Chant d’Aromes, I think the more poetic and introvert of the two scents. The Goutals: Heure Exquise, which bears relation to nr 19.
Seems like we have similar taste, so I will be keeping an eye on the replies! I agree with the recommendations for:
Chanel no. 19
Chanel Cristalle (the Eau Verte is great too, although not sure about longevity)
Le Temps d’une Fete ( not citrusy, but spring-y) ..
L’Ombre dans l’Eau – I (not a rose person) tested the EDP on Saturday and was blown away. Very green and I love the rose there!
Two more recs I picked up when I was a guest on the Monday Mail:
Ormonde Jayne Tiare and Frangipani Absolute, with the latter being the more summery. Both open very citrusy.
My first instinct was Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal. It is similar to Chanel 19 but warmer and more woody. Someone else mentioned it above, but I just thought I second it very heartily! I really like Bradamante’s other suggestions as well. Another one that is hard to find but is such a beautiful green floral is Guerlain Vetiver pour Elle.
Lucia might like Parfumerie Generale Corps et Ames. She might also try out Tauer’s Carillon pour un Ange or Zeta. Or maybe Miriam.
I also second the Ineke coffret recommendation.
If she likes lilac scents, she might also want to try Pacifica’s French Lilac if she hasn’t already.
My suggestions:
Amouage Opus III
Balenciaga L’Essence
Byredo Bal d’Afrique
L’Artisan Bois Farine
Happy sniffing!
Ineke Hothouse Flower. Starts off very green then settles into a warm green floral.
Also seconding Chanel Cristalle. A bright crisp spring day in a bottle.
Another along those lines is Parfum di Nicolai Weekend.
Seconding Hothouse Flower!
Also agree with No. 19…and adding Heure Exquise (Annick Goutal) and if you like Ineke, Evening Edged in Gold is worth a try! Have you sniffed OJ Woman? That one too!
How about Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee? I don’t see it getting much mention on the boards but it’s lovely.
Agree with Chanel 19, Chanel Cristalle, L’ombre dans L’eau, EL Private Collection and Jacomo Silences.
You may also try Tom Ford Ombre de Hyacinth, EL Jasmine Moss, EL Pleasures, the newcomer Hermes Jour d’Hermes and maybe Vent Vert.
second Jour d’Hermes
Try Guerlain Vetiver Pour Elle and Chanel Cristalle EDP
I’m thirding Seville a l’Aube.
Some others to try:
– MDCI Chypre Palatin (although this may be too heavy for summer)
– L’AP Caligna
– Marni (but does not last very long) – I consider this Portrait of a Lady-lite
– Puredistance Opardu
– Atelier Cologne Sous le toit de Paris
Oooh, also wanted to add —
Cartier Baiser Vole EDT
I bet the Cartier Baiser Vole Extrait de Parfum would be great as well
Thanks for your suggestions everyone! It’s lovely to have a list of new perfumes to try :).
I agree you must try Chanel 19 and I’m casting the second vote for Niki de Saint Phalle. I would also suggest: Hermes: Eau de Gentiane Blanche and Annick Goutal: Les Nuits d’Hadrien. These two are not quite as complex as some perfumes, but you might really like them anyway; they are both light, spring/summer-y, refreshing, herbal, woodsy and not sweet. I would also recommend Maison Martin Margiela: Untitled. It is green and woodsy, light, yet somehow persistent and I’ve recently fallen in love with it. It does have a touch of peppery-ness, but I think you should try it. Best of luck! Enjoy your hunt.
Have you tried Bel Respiro from Chanel’s Les Exclusifs line? Very green and refreshing in the heat. Although, I do find this one to be short-lived compared to Rue Cambon. Always worth trying, though.
Did you ever try Prada Infusion d’Iris? It’s fresh and green without being citrusy and it has a woodsy base. This spring’s flanker I like even better: Infusion d’Iris l’Eau d’Iris. It is cooler and fresher with mint and sort of laurel.
Like so many others before me I recommend No.19 EdT vintage and contemporary. And also No.19 Poudré is worth sniffing (you see I am not afraid of flankers as you have probably noticed already).
-prada infusion d’ iris
-chanel no. 19
-cartier baiser voile
-dioressence
-chanel exclusifs sycamore (top pick, and lasts longer than rue cambon!)
I suggest Chanel Bois de Iles for a soft floral with a beautiful woodsy base. Also Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue which is a little deeper than the EDP. I’d give No 19 and Cristalle Eau Verte a shot as well as many others have suggested. Good luck!
One more: did anyone mention Yvresse from Yves Saint Laurent? Because Le Parfum de Therese was such a lovely surprise for you and Yvresse has a similar richness – not cheap fruit notes, but luscious and golden ones. Originally it was named Champagne and it is easy to understand why when smelling it.
Seconding a lot of these (Debut, Baiser a Vole’, Vetiver Pour Elle) and adding Balmain’s newest versions of Ivoire – a lovely, soft gree floral.
Instead of just me-toos, will add: EL Private Collection White Moss and SL Bas de Soie.
I think Frederic Malle does classic florals brilliantly. (I love Therese, too!) In that vein: Iris Poudre, and Une Fleur de Cassie. The latter might be a little much for everyday, but it’s incredible. Both favourites of mine.
I would recommend, for a green spring/summer, Verveine Eugenie by Heeley Parfums. It’s not too citrussy, and has a modern streamlined feel even though it is a complex scent (his work is inspired by Annick Goutal and french classic perfumery.) And maybe give his Esprit du Tigre a shot while you’re at it – it’s not floral at all, but fabulously green and has a warm, deep dry down. Beautifully done.
I second Ormonde Jayne Tiare, Frangipani and Tiare!!!!
And if you ever want a Lily of The Valley, try Angela Flanders’ one. It is incredible, and surprisingly tenacious and green and fresh.
got distracted there – I meant to second ORMONDE WOMAN as well instead of Tiare, twice!
I don’t know why this popped into my head so long after this post, but it did, and I had to mention as well…….MDCI Parfums. They have a couple of wonderful greens – Un Coeur en Mai, Vespres Siciliennes, ENlevement au Serail.