Today we're helping Karissa, who met the love of her life in Africa, married him and moved to Germany. She wants a new perfume that celebrates her new life, but because she is currently in school, she needs something lighter than the sorts of perfumes she used to wear — something that won't overpower the people around her in class. The perfect scent would remind her of the good things in life in Africa, but be wearable in her day-to-day life in Germany. Her budget: around $100. Here is what we know about Karissa:
She's in her late 20s. She and her new husband are currently finishing graduate degrees.
She speaks 5 languages including French and German.
She grew up in central Africa and her favorite scent memories include mango trees, fresh guavas, coconuts, chai tea, the herb garden (especially peppermint and basil), smoky cook-fires, tropical rain storms, and very warm skin.
Karissa likes bold perfumes, white floral notes, spices, gourmand, citrus, incense, teas, vanilla, saltiness and warm horsey leather. She has a soft spot for animalic notes even if she can only wear them in the privacy of her own house. Perfumes currently in her cabinet include L'Artisan Havana Vanille, Navegar & Dzing, Lolita Lempicka L, Guerlain Jardin de Bagatelle, Hermes Jardin Sur le Nil, Gucci Flora, The Body Shop Indian Gardenia, Versace Dark Crystal, Chanel Coco Madamoiselle, Comme des Garcons Moroccan Mint Tea, Kai, Piguet Fracas, Annick Goutal Gardenia, Fragonard Ile D’Amour and Etoile, Thierry Mugler Alien and the whole set of Pacifica scents in solids. Other scents she has worn in the past include Kenzo Fleur Magnolia, L'Artisan Tea for Two and various organic/hippie oils, etc.
Karissa does not like powdery notes, too many aldehydes, any overly sparkly finishes, artificial rose or patchouli, or mainstream “pink” scents. Iris and violet just don’t seem to work well in the heat, nor does anything entirely citrus.
Perfumes Karissa has tried recently:
L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a L’aube: she loves it, just hasn’t bought it yet.
Serge Lutens line: she tried a few, but many of them have a "weird metallic note"; an exception was Santal Mysore, which she loved.
What say you?
Note: top image is Number 24 [cropped] by thristian at flickr; some rights reserved.
Serge Lutens Santal Majascule! No metallic note, and bolder than Santal Mysore.
YSL In Love Again. By Jean Claude Elena, released very limited every 4 years.
I’m kinda obsessed with the releases from the 90’s, best decade, most daring fragrances with exotic components.
Dzongkha was my first thought… Bold and unique without being overpowering.
The Jacomo Art Collection trio came to my mind when I read the sorts of fragrances Karissa likes, as well as Barbara Bui (warm vanilla incense skin scent) and a lot of the Escada limited edition fragrances since they’re wonderfully light, fruity and reasonably priced. Taj Sunset and Sunset Heat both have lovely mango notes in them but most have a bright tropical feel from all the fruits and flowers.
I also thought of the Jacomo line, #8 specifically. it’s a lovely chai tea that is not overpowering.
Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle; it’s an icy tuberose with lashings of coconut
It’s unique and not to everyone’s taste but worth a try.
L’Artisan’s Nuit de Tubéreuse
So for very light/inoffensive but still pleasing, Kiehl’s Aromatic Blends Fig Leaf & Sage (for coconut) and Jo Malone Lime Basil Mandarin come to mind, given the notes Karissa mentions. Maybe also the Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca (or others from that line).
For a totally different approach, “very warm skin” and salty notes make me think of Frederic Malle’s Dans Tes Bras. Obviously this is a lot more adventurous than the others I mentioned, but it sounds like Karissa might be into that, and on me at least I don’t it especially diffusive, so it could work well for the discreet thrill-seeker! (Do test it though; others report it wearing as raunchier than it seemed on my skin.) A set of three travel sprays could be had without going too far over budget.
Actually for that matter, floral plus rainstorm says Frederic Malle En Passant to me, so that may be worth trying too. Those travel sprays would be underbudget, even!
Actually, I’d recommend sampling Goutal’s Grand Amour, with its light citrus note and its vanilla/amber base. It’s very vegetal and soft, with a not-too-obtrusive sillage. Un matin d’orage might also be a good choice.
For the woody fire note, Let Me Play The Lion by Les Nez can be satisfyngly warm.
Eau Duelle by Diptyque has vanilla galore. She might also sample Fils de dieu, du riz et des agrumes by Etat Libre d’Orange.
Website Aus Liebe zum Duft can be a good option to get samples, since they sell most of these brands.
The first thing that came to mind was Kenzo Jungle L’Éléphant. It’s a unique scent that brings together spices, flowers and a mango note.
From Bois de Jasmin blog, “It includes notes of mandarin, cardamom, cumin, ylang-ylang, clove, heliotrope, licorice, mango, cashmeran, patchouli, amber, and vanilla.”
I second L’Elephant. I sampled it this weekend, and it is beautiful. Spicy and warm, the cardamom note is reminiscent of a chai.
Third-ing! This was my first thought for Karissa.
You might enjoy Bottega Veneta Eau Legere
Second!
I’m seconding Malle’s Dans Tes Bras and En Passant, as well as Diptyque’s Eau Duelle. My first thought was Hermes Jardin Sur Le Nil, but I see you already have that. It’s lovely though!
Calyx by Prescriptives has been around a long time ( 1986), but it is lovely and has a lot of the notes that you like: mint, mango, papaya, and guava. Also, I think that it can be had quite cheaply. Worth a try!
Seconding Calyx for guava!
Annick Goutal’s Songes is quite heavy, but it is a beautiful white floral… I think, for saltiness the Merveilles range is good, maybe Ambres des Merveilles. And Ellie Saab EDP and EDT may be worth a try.
Seconding the Merveilles rec – warm and salty gorgeousness.
And i’m seconding Songes. It is delicious, and if it is good for Deneuve, it is good for me.
adding L’Artisan’s Timbuktu as another you might like to try
Perfumes Karissa should try:
Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
Estee Lauder Sensuous
Ellie Saab Le Parfum EDP
Hermes Jour d’Hermes
Hermes Kelly Caleche
Hermes Eau des Merveilles – try the entire line
Lolita Lempicka EDP
Thierry Mugler Womanity
Kenzo Amour
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Bottega Veneta EDP
Seconding Kelly Caleche as well!
Guerlain Mandarin Basilic
Guerlain Herba Fresca
Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure(the entire line is worth checking out and reasonably priced)
Ah yes Mandarin Basilic, seconded!
Parfumerie Générale Harmatan Noir (PG11): Salt, tea, woodsy notes, citruses, green notes, virginia cedar, jasmine and mint.
A unique scent in the best way possible :).
I immediately thought Andy Tauer L’Air du Desert Morocain. Also, L’artisan Passage d’Enfer and vintage Dior Diorella.
I would try Hermes Un Jardin Apres la Mousson too. It has an unusual cardamom note in it, and to me is very gingery and spicy yet fresh. Some people get a lot of melon and hate it, but I think if it works for you, it’s lovely. Since you like Sur le Nil, I think you will like the very Ellena-ish style at least. I also second Dixie’s rec. of Mandarine Basilic. It’s not very tenacious, but I love it as a refreshing cologne.
Lez Nez Manoumalia is a tropical floral grounded with a touch of smoky vetiver. DK Black Cashmere and PG Indochine are warm, spicy, woody scents. AG Un Matin d’Orage reminded me of morning thunderstorms on the coast of West Africa.
After reading some of these suggestions and almost commenting that they seem pretty heavy to me (such as Jungle L’Elephant and Carnal Flower), I decided to say something that I’ve recently concluded. It’s not the type of fragrance that offends people, rather it is the AMOUNT you put on. So maybe just wear what you like but dab it on judiciously instead of spraying it. (I mean, I have a friend who wears a fragrance I used to like but she wears so much of it, I can smell it when we’re outdoors hiking in the woods together. Now, I’m starting to hate it–and I’m a perfumista.) I WOULD have suggested Hermes Sur la Nil, but you already have that. I think that one is pretty light, so maybe just go with less.
My first thought was Bombay Bling, but too expensive I think. Fig Tree by Sonoma Scent Studio or others that Laurie makes. I bet You could ask Laurie what she though would be good in her line, cause she is incredibly nice and helpful. And Sonoma Scent is so well priced. The Hermes Jardin Nil and Mediteranee also might fit.
I see no one has suggested Huitieme Art’s Manguier Métisse. This jumped to mind right away. Luscious mango! Soft, sweet, gourmandy. Worth a try if you like mango. I think tuberose is the other note. Not a lot of people know about this one. Check it out.
Just because I saw incense and citrus on your “like” list, I will recommend Shaal Nur by Etro. It’s a light, lemony incense. Perfect for class!
What about Shalimar and its flankers? My personal favourite is Shalimar Parfum Initial because it starts with a wave of freshness and has also some gourmand aspects. Plus it is absolutely inoffensive (if you do not overdose…). Shalimar Ode à la Vanille is a lot closer to the original Shalimar but with a hug-me-vanilla-note which is a lot more delicious and natural (I own the 2010 version without the Madagascar etc).
More than 20 years ago mango hit the olfactory universe of Germany: Casmir by Chopard is still a big seller in the department stores. You can get 30ml for less than 20 Euros. It is offensive, yes, that is true, but the Germans won’t notice because their grannies and aunts bathe in it…
If I were to be faithful to a perfume, Shalimar would be the one. It so so good, no surprise it’s such a classic. Even the flankers are all great, how often can we say that? I love the citrus opening of Eau de Shalimar, which I’d like to add to the list.
Acqua Allegoria Lys Soleia is a lush floral with enough personality and a tropical feel, yet it is an Acqua Allegoria so it is office friendly. It also has a good longevity. Elena from Perfume Shrine loved it, it is worthy reading her review.
I too love citrus, incense, teas, vanilla, and saltiness as well as some of the perfumes you currently own, so I’ll recommend a couple more.
Andy Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain – best incense IMHO, like a thread of smoke rising in the still desert air
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille – richer and deeper than Havana Vanille but same family.
The Hermes Merveilles, as previously suggested.
Tauer Rose Chypree – bold… vintagey without smelling like Grandma. I get jammy rose and a gently woody-aromatic warmth.
Antonia’s Flowers Tiempe Passate – heavy and golden, definitely a warm salty skin scent.
Hi Karissa, it all sounds like a wonderful experience! My suggestion is for Wazamba by Parfums d’Empire. It has an African theme, and smells wonderfully of soft incense, dry grasses and soft, gentle spices. I don’t think it would be too much in a classroom.