Today we're helping Michele, who wants to find a new signature scent — she wants one fragrant nirvana, and is not interested in playing the field. It should be full, rich and elegant, grownup, elegant but not snobbish, unique but not strange. Her dream perfume would evoke a confident and mysterious woman who just spent the evening at a smoky jazz club, or possibly a Bob Dylan concert. Ideally, it will also cost under $150, but she will go as high as $200 if need be. Here is what we know about Michele:
She's in her late 40s, but if asked, simply says she is bad with math.
She lives in the suburbs of Toronto, and loves her home but hates the suburbs.
She is very happily married to her first husband, and is self employed and works from home.
She spends several hours a day volunteering, and enjoys spending time outdoors, if outdoors means cafe patios and wandering through city streets.
Her design sense is minimalist both in form and function; her wardrobe is three colors and at time she thinks that is one too many. She has only a few signature pieces of jewellery and never wishes for more.
She says her spirit is bohemian (her favorite footwear is none, she buys Nag Champa incense in bulk and she's a meditation instructor who greets everyone with Namaste rather than hello).
Michele likes amber, civet, patchouli, tobacco, powdery, earthy, smokey, neroli, musk, vetiver, tea scents, soapy notes, grass, white flowers and violet. Some past loves include Yves Saint Laurent Opium (her first adult perfume), Estee Lauder Youth Dew (her going to bed fragrance), Chanel Coco (almost perfect - but not quite), Chanel No. 5, Jo Malone Lime, Basil & Mandarin, Diptyque Tam Dao (gorgeous but disappears so quickly) and Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea (gorgeous scent but it feels like a flirtation rather than a relationship; maybe too sweet).
Michele dislikes sugared fruit, peaches, anything sweet and innocent, bubbly and sparkly or too crisp, subtle barely there scents, anything too clean and anything blatantly targeted or marketed to the young.
Here are some of the fragrances she has tried recently:
People of the Labyrinths Luctor et Emergo: the strong Play Doh scent is off-putting and lasts longer than she can handle.
Sonoma Scent Studio Champagne de Bois: the opening notes are too bright and it then fades to nothing special.
Il Profumo Patchouli Noir: beautiful but does not last.
Robert Piguet Fracas: full, luscious and pretty...but too floral.
Ineke line: A few opened nicely but faded quickly, so they did not leave her wanting more.
Tom Ford White Patchouli: "I was taken with the opening and it was love at first smell... but it was gone so fast that I heard the sound of fleeing footsteps."
Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess: She bought it because it brought back memories of her summers spent tanning, but she is not interested in it as a signature scent.
Chanel Chance: too youthful.
Balenciaga Paris: She loved it but it disappeared very quickly.
Etat Libre d’Orange Like This: she is intrigued but can't make up her mind about it.
What say you?
Note: top image is Number 24 [cropped] by thristian at flickr; some rights reserved.
Smoky jazz club immediately made me think of Serge Lutens Un Voix Noire (gardenia and tobacco, inspired by Billie Holliday). I haven’t actually tried it yet but you definitely should!
I also think you’d love L’Artisan Seville a l’Aube, an orange blossom scent with lavendar, incense and a deep, long-lasting base (I smell patchouli in there), great sillage.
And check out Andy Tauer’s line if you haven’t tried it — you might start with L’Air du Desert Morocain.
That’s what I thought, too. Une Voix Noire seems to be perfect for Michelle! I also think Chanel 22 might suit her, since she likes white flowers and incense, and it is so delicious. Another one that comes to my mind is Serge Lutens’ Chergui, because she likes tobacco and it is my personal nirvana!
Seconding the Tauers, they are a bit expensve but really well made and long lasting!
Anything inspired by Billie Holliday will go at the top of my list for sampling. Thank-you Egabbert
This reply was meant for the first comment. Please be patient while I offer much more confusion – it part of my skill set. Yes, I am special that way.
Get thee to a Chanel boutique, and start sniffing les Exclusifs! Cuir de Russie, 31 Rue Cambon, No. 22. Beautiful, classic, and certainly not geared towards girls– but rather *women*.
“Her dream perfume would evoke a confident and mysterious woman who just spent the evening at a smoky jazz club”… Cuir de Russie. Or Piguet Bandit!
And maybe Serge Lutens Daim Blond.
I second Bandit! That’s what came to my mind when I read, “mysterious woman who just spent the evening at a smoky jazz club.”
Bandit: what a wonderful name. I do think I’ve tried this – the name evokes a familiarity. However, since I am uncertain I will try again. Thank-you.
I immediately thought of Coromandel, which you can also try at Chanel (there is a Chanel boutique in Toronto–I’ve been there). And since you are a Nag Champa fan, you might try a cheap thrill Pacifica Tibetan Mountain Temple. Namaste!
I will indeed get myself to a Chanel boutique. In fact, I will tell them that I have been sent by Elisa.
Since so many fragrances disappear from her, I would suggest she try putting on some unscented body lotion or minimally scented lotion first.
Might help. I was wondering if she might be anosmic to some musks…White Patchouli is not usually so fleeting.
That’s a good thought. I was surprised by that comment as well, as I found White Patchouli overpowerlingly strong, as did a friend who loves patchouli much more than I do (and for whom I’d originally purchased the decant).
It is possible I am anosmic to some musks which would be a shame but would explain so very much. If this is the case could you please point me in the direction of the scented exchange department – I wish to swap my inability to appreciate musk for ability to smell sugary scents at a great distance.
When I read Michele’s list of likes one perfume immediately came to my mind: Ormonde Jayne Montabaco. Long lasting, strong, powerful. Definitely for a woman not a girl!
I want to try this!
Oh, I want to try this too. In fact, I will try this. Thank-you.
If Luctor et Emergo almost suits her, then the not entirely dissimilar Rahät Loukoum by Serge Lutens might work, although it’s pretty sweet. Very sweet.
“Amber, patchouli, civet” means Tabu, surely, and it’s cheap as hell, which is a bonus: since Opium is a past love, and Tabu is the progenitor of Opium, it’s worth a shot.
The Tabu suggestion evoked a memory of a chain smoking neighbour that decorated her home in leopard print and convinced me that bourbon tastes better when served in a teacup. I found her both shocking and delightful. I must seek out some Tabu to try and celebrate this cheap thrill – with a shot of bourbon, of course.
The first thing that came to my mind was Serge Lutens’ Chergui. Warm, comforting tobacco with sandalwood, honey and incense. It would make a great signature scent!
I second Cherqui…Also, Mona di Orio Vanilla might be worth trying.
The Chergui sounds lovely. In fact, both will be put on my must try list. Thank-you.
Marni seems worth a sniff! It might ultimately be too quiet for an Opium lover, but it does come in a body lotion form as well, so maybe if Michele likes the notes, that could help amp it up! It does have good staying power, also.
I am very fond of layering so I shall try this in several forms.
Juliette has a Gun – Citizen Queen EdP
L’Artisan Timbuktu
Ramone Monegal – Mon Patchouli
MPG – Cuir Fetiche
Four? There are two that I must try just for their names. However, I will try all four. Thank-you.
A few random suggestions:
Keiko Mecheri Oliban – a beautiful tobacco scent
Frederic Malle Noir Epices – spices w patchouli and woods
Balmain Jolie Madame – violet and leather
Jour d’Hermes – abstract flowers
Profumum Roma Fiori d’Ambra – as it says, ambra and flowers
Jolie Madame is great. So chic. The current formulaton is no match to the vintage perfection, but as Victoria at Bois de Jasmin said, it is still so much nicer than most of what is launched today – and the price is a real bargain!
Random suggestions are the best kind. Thank-you and I will star the “so chic” recommendation.
Because she likes civet and amber, I’m going to suggest Sharif from La Via del Profumo (it’s reviewed on this site at https://nstperfume.com/2011/10/12/la-via-del-profumo-sharif-fragrance-review/). It’s leathery and earthy and smoky but also has a slightly sweet almondy aspect (not sugared, though). It’s an all-natural perfume but on me it lasts all day, and it’s something you won’t smell a lot of other people wearing.
Sharif is great!
You have made it sound so enticing. I am sold…well, on ordering a sample. Thank-you.
Agree that Chergui might be just the ticket, I’ll be putting up a bottle of it that needs a good home on the Sat swap.
SL’s Musc Khublai Khan also might work: a smoky jazz club in Samarkand?
L’Artisan Dzonghka might also appeal, lots of incense with iris, and a bit of a whiskey-like undertone. Very dry.
For violet: LesNez The Unicorn Spell, to me smells like frost, violet, and the slightest tinge of cigarette smoke.
My list continues to grow….and with some luscious sounding scents. Merci.
Balenciaga Le Dix sounds like it was made for Michele. OK, it’s hard to find now, but given that she already wears Balenciaga Paris, I think she would find Le Dix perfect, as this is rounder, fuller and long lasting, and is worth searching for. It has an abundance of aldehydes, has the violet, amber and civet she loves, and is long lasting. It’s the woman to Paris’s girl. It has been likened to a violet Chanel No 5, but is so much lovelier than that.
“…it’s the woman to the Paris girl.” is a line that would pull me in and has in fact. Your suggestion will be in my first sample order. Thank-you.
I say M.Micallef Style or Royal Vintage from the same perfume house.
Jillie: don’t you wish they would re-issue Le Dix? It is such a wonderful fragrance, I bet it would be a best seller.
Second that! I have the smallest of bottles and really love it. Simple but with depth.
Hi Dzingnut and Petronella – yes, it would be lovely if Le Dix were to return, but I suppose it would have to be so reformulated now that it would be a shadow of its former glory. But one can dream.
What about the Bottega Veneta scents – both original and the newer one? I’m starting to love the Eau Legere, it’s definitely got leather and white flowers, and it lasts very well.
The fact that it lasts well is something I do need. I will certainly try it.
I agree with others and their suggestion of Chergui. Also some of the Tauer’s like Incense Rose or L’air du Desert Morocain might work. Also if you like Tam Dao then try 10 Corso Como. It’s similar but I like it a lot better and there are other products in the line so you could theoretically layer the scent to extend the lasting power if needed.
Hello Poodle, your icon makes me smile. Chergui is the scent most suggested so I know that will be at or near the top of my list. The Tauer suggestions and 10 Corso Como will also be on my list. I’m so grateful for the many suggestions – I could never have compiled such a list on my own.
I suggest:
Diptique Volutes – either the EDT and the EDP
Comme des Garcons Incense Kyoto
I have a soft spot for Diptique (because they make such deeply scented and insanely addictive candles). I will place your suggestion on my list. Also the Comme des Garcons Incense Kyoto. Thank-you.
Ambra Di Luna, Ramon Monegal.
I’ve never heard of this perfume before and how is that possible when it points to amber directly in it’s name. I shall try it. Thank-you.
My suggestion is based more on inspiration than on anything solid, but what I got was Solange Cosmic. As I read further, I realized that this might work very well for Michele.
A suggestion based on inspiration? I love it and will make certain to seek out your recommendation. Thank-you!
Some thoughts:
Lancome Magie Noire (the vintage is what came to mind, but maybe even the current version would work).
Vero Profumo Onda (the edp is right at the $200 maximum)
Donna Karan Black Cashmere
EldO Jasmine et Cigarette
Caron Tabac Blond and En Avion
Ormonde Jayne Woman and Tolu
Guerlain Vetiver Pour Elle
L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse
Seconding SL’s Chergui and MKK, and adding Arabie
Oh my goodness – such an varied and impressive list. Thank-you so much.
I am almost afraid for you to try this because the lasting power has never been good for me or for a lot of others. However, I think you will really like it and you can use lotion or vaseline as a base to make it last longer. Frederic Malle’s Angéliques Sous La Pluie and I bet you may also like L’Eau d’Hiver from the same line. Best of luck!
Lasting power is indeed something I struggle with. However, I am going to try and use unscented body cream or another base to hopefully extend the on skin experience. So, your suggestion will be added. Thank-you.
The Malles are not cheap, but I think you’ll like the aesthetics of the house.
Hello Solance! You are correct – I love the aesthetics, truly love it. The bottle is so minimal and I would actually display it. In an exchange with Robin when I sent her my initial info I mentioned that pretty bottles (or what is typically considered pretty) are tucked in my closet so that they do not distract from the visual minimalism of my space. I know it might seem silly to be concerned with such things – but I am. I would not base my decision on the packaging, but rather it would determine if it sits out or not. Thank you for making mention of the aesthetics….I would not have checked it out otherwise. Hugs.
One of the most appealing aspects of burning incense is the dryness of it. I crave dry, rich, pulling towards notes we associate more with the east then the west, fragrances. I think you might like Yatagan. Also the Tauer’s mentioned above. You might also find Kyoto appealing. I even like some of the Aveda fragrance oils. These are all sophisticated suggestions. For women who are scentually and spiritually more evolved. Get a bunch of decants of all the suggestions and have a ball!
Yes! That is exactly what I plan to do – order a sampling of the many suggestions offered and just spend some time exploring, rejoicing, and having fun finding the perfect one for me. Your suggestions will,of course, be included. How could they not, they are after all sophisticated suggestions and I adore that. Merci.
For a more sophisticated version of Youth Dew, try Yosh Omniscent Oil. And I second the Sharif!
I shall. Thank-you.
-You might want to get some samples from The Providence Perfume Company (http://www.providenceperfume.com/). Their stuff was too earthy for me, but it might work for you.
– A perfume oil from Saffron James called Pūnono. Its notes include ylang ylang, pikake, carnation, vanilla and Tunisian opium.
-Spicebomb
– Jacomo 08
And I am a huge Bob Dylan fan (never been to a concert of his, though).
Your list includes a few I had never heard of….thank-you. If you ever get a chance do try and get tickets to a Dylan concert. You will not be disappointed; his stories and musings between the songs are worth the price of admission.
Thank-you so very much to everyone: Robin, for accepting my request to be featured in your Monday Mail feature. Everyone else, for taking a few moments to read my rambling list of likes and dislikes and then to offer your thoughtful recommendations. I truly do appreciate it. My plan is to make a list of ALL of these recommendations and begin my journey of finding that one perfect scent for me. This will be so much fun and I will certainly offer an update when Robin puts together her follow-up post. Again thank-you. Merci. Hugs. Mwah and namaste.
I’d recommend that you sample BK Back to Black, Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur, PG Cuir Venenum and Pd’E Cuir Ottoman. Happy hunting!
The collective wealth of scented knowledge that is displayed daily on this blog is beyond impressive. Thank-you for your suggestions, I will be adding them to my list.
If you think Coco is almost perfect, but have only tried the EdT and EdP, I suggest giving the Parfum a try if you can get your head around how much more it costs per ml. It’s really gorgeous!
Oh, and Spicebomb! Spicy earthy tobacco. And Bottega Veneta has a gorgeous patchouli jasmine suede drydown.
Thumbs up on the ‘Spicebomb”! I totally forgot that one – and I own it! I second both suggestions – Spicebomb and Bottega Veneta.
Spicebomb sounds delicious, both the name and the notes you mentioned. I will put that and Bottega Veneta on my list. Oh, and I will indeed try the Coco Parfume. Thank-you.
Hermessence Vetiver Tonka is minimalistic and bohemian in my opinion.
A minimalistic and bohemian combination is not only unusual but, I would think it is difficult to achieve. So, I am very intrigued by your suggestion. Thank-you.
Vetiver Tonka is a must try. Perfection. It’s my number one favorite fragrance in the world.
Wow. Then indeed I will try it. I imagine any person who is a regular on this site does not use the word “favourite” very lightly.
It’s so special to me that I “save” it for equally special occasions ! Sounds weird I know but that way I preserve its cachet….
what about L’air de rien, that’s boho for you and do try Dzing! (or somewaht similar: Bvlgari black). Otherwise: the obove-mentioned l’air du desert marocain
All three….I will try all three. Thank-you.
The first perfume that came to mind is Caron’s Tabac Blond.
This is a gorgeous smoky leathery tobacco, with a hint of sweetness. It’s on my to buy list, definitely!
It will now be on my list to try. Thank-you.
Again, thank you to every single one of you. I am overwhelmed with glorious and varied choices and deep appreciation for sharing a moment of your time and your perfume knowledge. xoxo
We sound like scent sisters. I love Fleour de Rose and think you would also.
Voleur de Roses – sorry.
Thank-you Eroica, I will add it to my list.
Wow lots of suggestions, feels superfluous adding mine but Michele likes some perfumes that I adore so here’s my thoughts:-
1. 100% agree with Chergui. Love it.
2. 2nding the Magie Noir. Irresistibly dark and lasts for EVER on me.
3. For a cheap thrill, Stetson, it’s like Youth Dew’s playful cousin.
Your Stetson suggestion made me smile – simply because I would never think to try it. I’m headed to the local pharmacy (which has a large selection of cheap to not-so-cheap perfumes) and I will indeed try it out. The others have been added to my list. Thank-you.
Do tell us what you thought of Stetson; I should mention it has a real coca cola note. It is not a sweet perfume to me though and definitely related to YD.
Your description of what you are seeking evokes Chanel Coromandel and Comme des Garcons Avignon.
and try also Chanel 19
The Chanel suggestions are near the top of my list for sampling. Obviously there is something that draws me to that line and so perhaps my signature scent can be found in the not-so-obvious Chanel offerings. Merci.
Gucci Rush is an old favorite of mine that I think you should try. The list of notes includes several flowers, and even peaches, but I don’t know anyone who can detect them because the patchouli dominates. There is nothing sweet or fruity, instead it is warm, sexy, earthy, and spicy/peppery. It lasts forever and is great for a concert or club. It’s not really easy to find, but somehow Sephora has it. I do hope you’ll give it a chance. Good luck!
Hello Lucy. I will indeed give it a chance. You have made it sound quite lovely and because the peach is subtle I am certain it will not be bothersome. My aversion to peaches is when they are overt. I love peaches and the natural juice scent from the fruit and yet have a very low tolerance for peach scented products. Odd, I know. Thank-you for your suggestion.
There have been some AWESOME suggestions so far, but I thought I would add a few seconds (and thirds +) for L’Air du Desert Marocain and Tabac Blond, those were the two that came to mind first and they are both AMAZING. Also, I’ve not actually tried these, but if you love incense, Michele, you might want to sample some of Laurie’s other incense/tobacco offerings like Incense Pure since I’m pretty sure they are less sweet than Tabac Aurea (which I freaking adore but agree it’s on the sweeter side) and they have pretty incredible sillage and lasting power. And also Wazamba and Ambre Russe from Parfums d’Empire. 🙂
Laurie’s scents do indeed offer incredible sillage and lasting power. She was kind enough to send a few samples when I ordered the Tabac Aurea and they were all so well done. I will make certain to visit the ones you have highlighted for me. The perfumes that have been suggested by more than one person are the ones I am ordering first. I assume agreement between like-minded perfume folks means that they are worthy of being placed higher on the list. So thank you for adding your nod of approval. Really, I am trying everything suggested and I am confident I will find some I adore.
Caron Tabac Blond and Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain were also the firrst that came to my mind. I love leather and smoke and musk and these are both on my (really rather short) “to buy” list. The problem with the Caron is that it’s exhorbitantly expensive. I buy decants while I pine after the offerings on eBay.
My luck is such that with all these wonderful suggestions I will fall in scented love with one of the pricier ones. I was contemplating waiting for many samples to arrive and then covering the names with little post-its so that I pick based on true likes rather than fondness for a name or house. It’s a nice plan, but I know that when the first mailing of samples arrive I will gleefully tear open the package to begin exploring. I adore the three notes that you mention….I think that is what heaven must smell like.
Michele, you’ve already received lots of suggestions. Here are mine:
Ava Luxe has a number of fragrances that sound like they’d be right for you.
Nag Champa
Green Tara
Incense Noir (supposed to smell like temple incense)
There are others that also might appeal. Look at Serena’s Facebook page for descriptions and notes. You can’t get samples from her, but you can buy small decants at some of the popular online decant sites. I have not been disappointed with anything I’ve purchased from her, and find her descriptions very fitting.
Hello Jonette. Thank you for your suggestions my list is now huge and I am grateful for that. Lucky me to begin a journey of sniffing lovely creations that have been recommended by a group of people who know what they speak of. I love temple incense and so I will be sneaking that suggestion into one of my early rounds of sample ordering. Thank-you.
Definitely try CdG Kyoto and l’Artisan Timbuktu! Good luck! Timbuktu is like namaste on the beach of Phuket island, barefoot. (I don’t know if it looks and feels like Timbuktu but certainly feels like Phuket or Hawaii..)
They are indeed both on my list and I simply love the name Timbuktu. It makes me smile and so that in itself wins points. Namaste on the beach and being barefoot? How glorious is that! Thank-you for taking the time to comment. I feel so blessed to have so many kind people offering their suggestions. Merci.