Quick note: there are currently only 2 people in line for the Monday Mail — if you were thinking of getting on the waiting list, now is a good time!
Fabio liked his 2011 Monday Mail experience so much that he's back for more. He'd like to find a new Eau de Cologne for summer. It should be fresh, but also elegant and not overly sporty. He had that niche covered with the original Dior Homme Cologne (he loved its fresh and powdery classic feel) but it's been reformulated and no longer suits him. He can spend about €130-150.
Here is what we know about Fabio:
He’s in his late 30s and lives in Milan, where he works in an office.
Fabio is “a very classical guy, sometimes old-fashioned, sometimes preppy, but definitely an elegant Italian”.
Fabio goes to the gym regularly, loves photography, squash and reading (Dickens and Tolstoy) and traveling when he can.
Fabio already wears Creed Green Irish Tweed (elegant, perfect for dinner out), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta ( perfect for a Sunday out with friends when the weather starts to be warm, but he's not sure it works on really hot, sultry days), Gucci Pour Homme II (nice subtle tea note and retro/70s feeling). His winter fragrances include Guerlain Habit Rouge & Coriolan, Chanel Antaeus, Burberry Brit, Ralph Lauren Polo Green and Lorenzo Villoresi Spezie.
Fabio dislikes gourmand fragrances, coffee notes, heavy mint notes, sweet base notes, and sometimes white musk annoys him.
Here is what Fabio had tried back in 2011:
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio: good, but too widely worn.
Versace Pour Homme: not unique enough.
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue: too fresh.
Newer experiences include:
Tom Ford Neroli Portofino: he really liked it, but not enough to justify the price tag.
L'Artisan line: too short lived.
What say you?
Note: top image is pink post [cropped] by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
Chanel’s Cologne is my go-to fragrance for hot summer days – it’s uplifting, fresh, yet interesting. I couldn’t manage Texas summers without it, and it’s easily unisex. I’m guessing it would be perfect for you.
Maybe Parfums d’Empire Azemour, for a cross between a citrus cologne and a chypre? You didn’t mention floral notes, but Neroli Portofino has them too, and this is cheaper. For an even CHEAPER version of the citrus chypre with less floralcy, try Monsieur Balmain.
Also love Clarins Eau Dynamisante, very refreshing and lovely drydown.
I think every cologne collection should include a bottle of the classic 4711. I wet white washcloths, squeeze them out, sprinkle with 4711, fold them gracefully and pop them in the refrigerator for hot summer day facial/body refreshers. I learned this in Thailand.
4711 also has a complete Acqua Colonia line which includes Lemon & Ginger, Mandarine & Cardamom, Blood Orange & Basil, Melissa & Verbena, Juniper Berry & Marjoram.
Fabio might like the new Dior Homme Cologne 2013. Or maybe he’ll enjoy that Hermes Mandarine Ambree Robin just reported?
I also suggest Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli and I Profumi di Firenze Limone di Sicilia.
Seconding the Chanel Eau and adding Monsieur de Givenchy (citrus / floral with oakmoss and sandalwood…it’s lovely – and yes, even the reformulation is wonderful), Dior’s Eau Sauvage and Guerlain’s Cologne Imperiale. All excellent right from the ‘fridge on a summer day! Oooh, and if Chanel Eau is too fleeting in terms of longevity, seek out Chanel’s Pour Monsieur – the eau de toilette, NOT the overly sweetened ‘Concentree’ (which is sweet to the point of being sickening).
Jo Malone Lime Basil Mandarin
Cartier Declaration
Have you tried Timbuktu by L’Artisan? In my experience it’s not short lived at all and it’s nice for summer.
I second Timbuktu! Really worth a try.
Another recommendation for Chanel’s Eau de Cologne, Dior Eau Sauvage and the Guerlain colognes – Cologne Impériale, Cologne du Coq and Eau de Guerlain.
I also really love Cologne à La Russe by Institut Très Bien (and understand that both á La Française and à l’Italienne were also excellent) but it’s been discontinued so probably tricky to find.
Or how about Thierry Mugler Cologne?
Second the Guerlain Eaux, they are shortlived though, Eau de Guerlain seems to last a little longer than the other 3.
Second Mugler Cologne, but you might find it too musky in the drydown.
Thirding TM Cologne!
Nobile 1942 Estroverso is really nice. Or what about one of the Guerlain EdCs (as mentioned by Abyss above).
Hmm, well, first of all, does he want to marry me?
And secondly, JPG fleur de male?
That’s the fastest proposal ever get!
I’m honoured
Another voice added to the Chanel Eau, but I will add Pour Monsieur. You might try Dior Escale a Portofino and Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli.
Yes, cosigning the Atelier! I am sorry to say I haven’t smelled Neroli Portofino, but Grand Neroli is a favorite of mine for neroli.
I would suggest some of the Eaux from the Parfums de Nicolaï line:
L’Eau à la Folie
L’Eau Mixte
L’Eau Chic
My personal favourite is L’Eau d’Eté but that one is more “feminine”.
From her main line Balle de Match might work as well and Cédrat Intense is wonderfully crisp and uplifting.
Guerlain: Eau de Guerlain
Goutal: Mandragore, Duel, Les Nuits d’Hadrien and maybe Une Nuit Etoilée and Ninfeo Mio.
Rochas: Eau de Rochas both masculine and feminine are unisex really.
Parfums Divine: L’Eau Divine
Seconding L’eau Chic.
I think you should go with a fresh citrus vetiver fragrance. Something like Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Lubin Le Vetiver, or Guerlain Vetiver. These are perfect for summer and would be unlike anything already in your rotation.
I agree with vetivers, there are so many to try out, a lighter , summerish version could be escentric molecules 03 (the blend)
Almost any of the Atelier Cologne line! All are good.
I haven’t tried this one, but I wonder if Arquiste’s Etrog might work for you as well.
Yes — Orange Sanguine would be one
I enjoy a lot Allure homme cologne during the summer. Also big fan of Tom Ford Neorli Portofino but for its price I can get almost 3 bottles of Dior Escale a Portofino and it suits me almost the same, just a little less longevity.
And of course Bvlgari green tea, eau de cologne version!!
Oh yes–and I find Bvlgari au the blanc quite nice too!
I don’t have much to add to the excellent suggestions already made except to second the Bulgari The Vert. I must say that I always love this column and I’d like to be on the waiting list myself.
This suggestion is a bit outside the box, but I’m harboring this idea that Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita could smell great on a man. It’s a floral, but to me it doesn’t necessarily read as feminine–I’d call it intriguing. And it fits the bill for a summer scent that’s elegant, fresh and not too sporty. I feel like an elegant Italian, especially, could definitely pull it off.
You are really good on selling your ideas.
That’s description’s intriguing
After reading Fabio’s Bio, I immediately thought of Guerlain Vetiver, Houbigant Fougere Royal, and Profumum Aqua Viva.
Fabio, I know you haven’t had good luck with L’Artisan Parfumeur; nonetheless, I’d recommend that you try Seville a l’Aube, if you haven’t already. It has orange blossom that gives it a cologne-like air, and much more – very special!
Also, one of the perfumes featured in Chandler Burr’s Untitled Series on the Open Sky was Yuzu Rouge by Parfums 06130. Very good citrus.
I’d also second or third Rictor’s idea of Guerlain Vetiver. The Lorenzo Villoresi vetiver is good, too.
Seconding Monsieur Balmain (lemony over sandalwood), 4711, and Eau de Rochas (haven’t smelled the men’s, but the women’s is a great patchouli cologne). I’ll add Maurer & Wirtz Tabac (classic barbershop & dirt cheap), and Caron’s Third Man (elegant but lived-in). Also some of the Caswell Massey men’s line, like Sandalwood.
Second the Mandragore. I adore it. You can wear it to vote just as easily as you can wear it to woo.
Gosh, what’s wrong with something that’s widely worn? I would have recommended Terre d’Hermes but for that.
NOT widely worn, much cheaper than Mugler or Hermes, and terrific is United Colors of Benetton Unisex (in the green bottle). Refreshing and not overpowering.
Oh do try Eau de Cartier, the crisp violet leaf is wonderful in the summer (it is my crisp white shirt fragrance).
How about Fendi’s Life Essence? Elegant warm, ambery skin scent with a woods drydown, moderate sillage but excellent lasting power. Notes that I pick up on skin are cypress, sandalwood, vetiver-has a very nice and elevant fresh/powdery vibe. A similar scent a bit easier to find would be Gendarme.
There’s also a perfume by a french company called Henri Jacques called Colibri that is very unique. Pure perfume stored in French crystal vials. Beautiful stuff.
Just remembering AG Eau du Sud is wonderful for summer.
I would suggest the wonderful 1881 Cerruti, it smells so Italian
and it might fit with Fabio’s elegant look. Btw, there’s a cologne version up and coming in March, I think.
In option, I’d suggest Jo Malone Vetiver, Acqua di Parma Mirto di Panarea if Fabio wants to venture into fruty-flower, or Eau d’orange Verte, you can never go wrong with that!
All, thank You very much for your support.
I’m building up a list, and will try them very soon!
I will keep you updated when Robin will publish the “monday mail recap” post.
Thanks, ciao
PS: Feel free to keep sharing Your suggestions!
I gave Margiela’s “Untitles L’eau” second try and now I own it. I recommend trying it if you haven’t at all or giving it a second chance.
AG Ninfeo Mio maybe? It’s not a cologne, but is fresh in a herbaceous kind of way, with lemon and figs and grass. I think it’s perfect for Italian summers.
And I have another proposal, how about exploring new fragrances at Esxence? I moved to Milan about 18 months ago and sadly have not befriended any perfumistas yet. With Esxence 2013 just around the corner, it would be great to have a perfume pal and go together. Last year I went alone and while it was fun, it’s always better to share opinions about all the new fragrances. Drop me a line if you are interested
@Robin: Sorry for using your blog as a meet-up forum, I hope I’m not being inappropriate. In my country we had a circle of perfumistas with regular meet-ups, where everyone would bring tons of samples and we would smell and chat about fumes. I really miss these occasions…