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The Monday Mail ~ help Eleni find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 28 January 2013 46 Comments

Pink letter slot

Today we're helping Eleni, who stumbled upon some perfume blogs while looking for a new scent a few months ago. She had taken a long break from perfume after having babies, and then being too busy to worry about fragrance. She'd like to find an everyday scent for winter (think 50-60 degrees) that is a bit different from her old loves: Christian Dior Diorissimo, Gucci Envy, Marc Jacobs Blush, CK One, Ô de Lancôme. A deeper, darker take on Diorissimo would be right up her alley. She can pay up to $120, and has good access to perfume stores. Eleni says her skin does not hold fragrance well, and longevity is more important to her than sillage.

Here is what we know about Eleni:

She's a lawyer in her mid 30s, and lives in Athens with her husband and two small children.

She has dark hair and green-brown eyes and wear glasses on most days (which she loves). She has been likened to a curvy Liz Lemon (Tina Fey on 30 Rock).

She says she is outgoing, bubbly and goofy but can get moody and pessimistic at times.

Eleni loves humor with an edge (a bit cynical), indie-rock/ pop/electro music from the 80s and 90s (faves include Depeche Mode and Pulp), books (no chick-lit) and going to the cinema.

Eleni likes lily of the valley, jasmine, honeysuckle, hyacinth (she likes to have it in the house but isn't sure about it in perfume) pepper, coriander, citrus, green notes, tea and smoke. She used to like Cacharel Loulou and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique, but they are a bit too powdery for her now.

She doesn't like rose, peach, too much vanilla/powder, anything too sweet or too dry. Perfumes that don't suit her include Paloma Picasso, Lancôme Trésor, Bvlgari Black (the rubber note reminded her of her polluted city), Thierry Mugler Angel.

Her is what Eleni has tried so far:

Guerlain Lys Soleia: a rushed duty free rushed purchase that she likes but doesn't love.

Korres Jasmin, Pepper Gaiac Wood: a recent purchase that she really likes.

Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia: she loves it but it is too loud for everyday wear. She might get a decant for nights out.

Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss: nice.

Tom Ford Black Orchid: too sweet and heavy for regular wear but might make a nice change occasionally.

Hermès Eau des Merveilles: thought it was very elegant and discreet, missed the floral note.

Prada Infusion d'Iris: she got some citrus notes, then stopped smelling it altogether.

Knize Ten: too strong (and rubbery?).

L'Artisan Tea for Two: she unexpectedly and utterly fell in love with Tea For Two.

Parfums de Nicolaï Odalisque: she wanted to love it but all she got was moss, none of the floral or bergamot notes.

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower: just stunning, and will be another great evening scent.

Guerlain Chamade, Apres L'Ondee, Jicky: she likes them all, but not for her.

L'Artisan Dzongkha: did absolutely nothing for her, and Timbuktu was only a tiny bit better.

What say you?

Note: top image is pink post [cropped] by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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46 Comments

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  1. austenfan says:
    28 January 2013 at 11:53 am

    I was going to suggest Odalisque, but if it doesn’t work it doesn’t. Another take on LOTV is Delrae’s Début.
    Have you tried other Nicolaïs? Maybe Weekend à Deauville or L’Eau Mixte might fit the bill.
    Ormonde Jayne Tiaré, it is a little like the Lauder you tried. And while we’re discussing Ormonde Jayne, it is a line worthy of exploring.
    Goutal: Le Chèvrefeuille, Ninfeo Mio and Grand Amour.
    Chanel: Cristalle, the EDT is more mossy, the EDP is more floral.
    If you like Tea for Two it might be worth trying Dzing! and Safran Troublant. They are by the same nose as TfT, and not dissimilar.
    I hope you find what you are looking for!

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    • gvillecreative says:
      28 January 2013 at 12:10 pm

      Look at that! The very 1st comment had the suggestion that I was going to make: OJ Tiare!

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    • Abyss says:
      28 January 2013 at 12:10 pm

      Emphatically seconding OJ Tiare! Frangipani might also work.

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      • Erin says:
        28 January 2013 at 12:39 pm

        You three are right up my alley! Was going to suggest Odalisque, and then saw it didn’t work and the brain jumped right to OJ Frangipani. I could see Tiare working, too. Frangipani isn’t quite *dark* but it’s kind of like a richer Diorissimo in the sense that it’s bright and euphoric and trilling, but with a little more weight than the (vintage) Dior.

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        • trixiesweet says:
          28 January 2013 at 1:09 pm

          Hi All,
          This is Eleni. Thank you for all the recommendations! I will definitely have to try Tiare and Frangipani.
          You know, I haven’t given up on Odalisque just yet, I was thinking of getting another sample – after all, it was only a 1 ml sample. I only got a floral note for the first few minutes, then it turned “dark green”. It’s not that I didn’t like it, just not what I was looking for. But every time I read the descriptions, I feel I’m supposed to love it

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  2. sacre bleu says:
    28 January 2013 at 11:53 am

    We have many similar enjoyments in scents.
    Others I enjoy:
    Tom Ford Black Orchid Voile de Fleur
    Chanel 31 Rue Cambon
    Parfume de Nicolai Le Temps d’Une Fete
    Paul and Joe Blanc
    Chanel Cristalle edt
    Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille (honeysuckle/jasmine)
    The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit
    Givenchy III

    Good luck!

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    • Erin says:
      28 January 2013 at 12:41 pm

      Oooo, the Voile de Fleur is a super recommendation, too, if Eleni can find it (discontinued). It’s like a slightly lighter, sunnier version of the EL Tuberose Gardenia.

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      • trixiesweet says:
        28 January 2013 at 1:14 pm

        I will put those on my list. I am looking especially forward to Le Temps D’Une Fete, Chevrefeuille et Jasmin de Nuit. Thank you!

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        • Rappleyea says:
          28 January 2013 at 1:29 pm

          Seconding Jasmin de Nuit.

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  3. Lila says:
    28 January 2013 at 12:29 pm

    Ann Gerard Ciel d’Opale is a lovely, soft, everyday type of perfume. It includes honeysuckle, jasmine some citrus notes as well as pepper, I believe.

    Ormande Jayne Tiare is a nice white floral that would work for daytime and the Ormande Jayne Osmanthus may be appealing if she liked Tea For Two.

    Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier works all year round.

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  4. chrisskins says:
    28 January 2013 at 1:04 pm

    “Too busy to worry about fragrance!” The Doctors are “In”. 5 cents. It seems like Tiare or bust! I’d stretch the budget and get the matching body lotion, too, for extra “grab”. Heck, I’d get it because it exists.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 1:17 pm

      And Tiare gets another two votes – wow! I’m very tempted to buy blind (but won’t really after sampling Odalisque, which I thought I’d love).

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  5. farouche says:
    28 January 2013 at 1:11 pm

    I would suggest trying ELDO Jasmine et Cigarette, a lovely jasmine with tobacco, woods, and musk to counteract the sweetness. It is also well within your price range. Enjoy the search!

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 1:20 pm

      Thank you! I actually have a sample of this but I haven’t opened it yet. I will test it tonight!

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  6. Rappleyea says:
    28 January 2013 at 1:33 pm

    My first two thoughts – Odalisque and Chamade don’t work. :-( Hmm…

    But when somebody says “jasmine”, I say Samsara! Mahora might work also (a soft jasmine and frangipani).

    Also, Sonoma Scent Studio has some beautiful florals, I’m thinking specifically of Jour Ensoleille, To Dream and Nostalgie.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:11 pm

      Thanks,I will try Samsara, it’s stocked locally (contrary to other Guerlains like Chamade and Mitsouko which are not available here). And the SSS sound lovely.
      Chamade did sound right like something I might like, but I just found I couldn’t wear it everyday – it would be for “red lipstick” occasions.

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  7. Ginny M says:
    28 January 2013 at 2:03 pm

    Just riffing on some ideas here — I admire OJ frags (although happily did NOT fall for the spendy new 2012 releases) and think Tiare, Frangipani and Osmanthus would be fine options, but just last evening I sprayed on a bit of Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum D’Empire and couldn’t stop smelling my arm…there’s still a bit there! I ordinarily don’t gravitate toward florals, but it’s lovely and SO much more affordable. Another option that springs to mind: Au The Blanc by Bvlgari, a great, light, everyday selection, probably won’t offend anyone and can also be had for a song.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:03 pm

      Ooh, I will have to look up the Parfums d’Empire one. Thank you!

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  8. martha24 says:
    28 January 2013 at 2:04 pm

    My suggestions are Idylle by Guerlain and Chanel No.19 EdT. I love them because of all their delicate fowers. Idylle especially the EdT version starts with lily of the valley in a very beautiful way – reminding me of Diorissimo. And I’m addicted to the hyacinth note in No.19, which you can’t compare to the smell of the real flower, because it is so discreet in the perfume. Though both scents are sometimes categorised as “rose scents” you should give them a try!

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:05 pm

      I will give them a go, many thanks – these should be very easy to find locally.

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  9. Aparatchick says:
    28 January 2013 at 2:09 pm

    I’ll second the PdN Le Temps d’une Fete and the Sonoma Scent Studio recs (particularly Jour Ensoleille)

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:12 pm

      On my list they go!

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  10. maggiecat says:
    28 January 2013 at 3:02 pm

    Seconding the OJ recommendations and the Goutals. I’m wearing hermes 24 Faubourg Eau Delicate and truly enjoying it today. It has a little more endurance than the usual floral, which you might like. Cartier’s Baiser Vole’ is also a good lily scent, not too cloying or sweet – you might try that.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:14 pm

      I can find Hermes and Cartier locally so will try them, thank you. It seems that there is a consensus for OJ, which I find encouraging.

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  11. egabbert says:
    28 January 2013 at 3:33 pm

    More fresh green florals to try: Weekend à Deauville, YSL Y, Trefle Pur, Paco Rabanne Metal. Also, Andy Tauer makes a rich lily of the valley scent — Carillon pour une Ange. It might overwhelm you though! You’d probably need to dab.

    If you like Tea for Two but can’t find a bottle, Spicebomb is a pretty good approximation.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:17 pm

      Thank you for the recommendations I might be able to find the Paco Rabanne locally too. I’ve read about Carillon pour un Ange, it sounds magical and the only thing stopping me is that the sample costs around 10 euro. But I think I should take the plunge.

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    • austenfan says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:53 pm

      2nd Carillon, your sample will last you a long time!

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  12. dolcesarah says:
    28 January 2013 at 3:42 pm

    I don’t like Odelisque either and feel, strangely, not part of the COOL CLUB, because of it. Try Sacrebleu. It’s warm, a bit different, and is compelling. Get the intense. I love Tea for two, try Dzing, Havana Vanille and Al Oudh. All by L’Artisan except Sacrebleu its by Nicolai. Good luck. For something light and sunny I say Jour Ens. By SSS ALSO AND another L’Artisan exclusive Seville L’Aube.

    Juliette Has a Gun is in your price range, Parfum1, has a 10% off code I can find it somewhere but they have Etat Libre D’Orange and JHAG lady Vengence and Citizen Queen. I think we like the same. Try these. U will like them. Stamatis at Parfum1, give him a call and tell him Sarah Beth sent ya.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:18 pm

      Thank you, that’s so nice of you! Sacrebleu sounds intriguing too.

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  13. stinker_kit says:
    28 January 2013 at 3:52 pm

    You might want to try the soft and radiant YSL Cinema, which is mostly mimosa, but with hints of jasmine and rose. It does have a vanilla aspect in the dry down, but it is a warm, non gourmondy kind of vanilla. You can find the edp at perfume discounters, plus, except for the more rarified perfumista community, and there are not that many of us, you are not likely to ever smell this on anyone else!

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:21 pm

      Cool, I just checked and it can be found locally.

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  14. sbe13 says:
    28 January 2013 at 4:09 pm

    What about Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Donna Karan Essence Labdanum or Chanel les Exclusifs Bois des Iles?

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:22 pm

      They will go on my next sample order – which will probably be a huge one!

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  15. Lucy says:
    28 January 2013 at 4:20 pm

    Donna Karan Gold is a nice Lily fragrance, with a little creaminess and spice. It is Lily, not LOTV, but it is definitely a deeper take of a light floral. The edp excels in both sillage and longevity, and the bottle is quite lovely. It was discontinued awhile back, but you should be able to find it at a discounter for $40 or less. Robin did a nice review of it here: https://nstperfume.com/2006/12/05/donna-karan-gold-fragrance-review/
    Good luck!

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    • trixiesweet says:
      28 January 2013 at 4:38 pm

      Thank you – creamy and spice sounds very good!

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      • bookwyrmsmith says:
        30 January 2013 at 12:51 am

        Hit ebay for the DK Gold .Honestly I’ve got bottles for around $7 . The Gold Sparkling is nice too.

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  16. poodle says:
    28 January 2013 at 4:47 pm

    A lot of people beat me to it but I’m throwing in my vote for SSS Jour Ensoleille. I’m not sure how you feel about lilac but Ineke’s After My Own Heart is a really pretty floral. Also, if you like Tea for Two you might want to give Jacomo #8 a try. It’s a tea scent but not as smokey as TfT.

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    • Aparatchick says:
      28 January 2013 at 7:44 pm

      Oooh, very good point about the Jacomo #8.

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  17. PetronellaCJ says:
    28 January 2013 at 5:45 pm

    Daringly suggests two lovely oddballs: Parfumerie Générale Harmatan Noir and Comme des Garcons Amazingreen. Good luck and happy sniffing!

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  18. Dilana says:
    28 January 2013 at 7:32 pm

    Comme Des Garcons White is a peppery lily of the valley which might give you that edge you like. Most people would classify it as a spring scent, but I say wear a little spring to counter the winter blahs.

    Otherwise I would say that you seem to like tubersoses. Truth or Dare is a kind of sparkly tuberose. Apothia’s If is a light tuberose that can often be acquired (on line) at a reasonable price.

    The Vert Extreme is a very good everday scent, easily sniffed at a Sephora or department store. It’s lovely and you might like it if you like L’Artisan’s tea.

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  19. dolcesarah says:
    29 January 2013 at 12:48 pm

    Do you own a full bottle of Odelisque ? I might know someone who wants it.

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    • trixiesweet says:
      14 February 2013 at 6:00 pm

      Hello – no, sorry. I had a 1 ml sample which I used up while trying to decide if it’s for me or not.

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  20. aspazy says:
    29 January 2013 at 2:21 pm

    We have two loves in common – CK One and EL Tubereuse Gardenia, and I don’t like powder and vanilla either. So, I think, maybe you too can fall in love with Philosykos by Diptyque? I’m not sure I can describe it – it is just marvelous.

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  21. bookwyrmsmith says:
    30 January 2013 at 12:57 am

    Hmm … for LOTV , I have to recomend Jessica McClintock .It has a great lasting time ,one of the house’s more recent releases is Brilliance which is quite similar but with a bit of a fruity update.
    I would second Cristalle and No.19 you may also like Cristalle Eau Verte.
    And if you love Tea for two I would recomend Bvlgari’s eau the Rouge (red tea ) and layer the lotion and other products.

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  22. AnnieA says:
    30 January 2013 at 2:09 pm

    Chanel N°19 POUDRÉ is a pretty iris perfume, and Serge Lutens (perhaps a decant, as it’s not cheap) is an even prettier iris.

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  23. trixiesweet says:
    14 February 2013 at 5:59 pm

    I’ve only now got round to making my lists, one for buying samples from STC (I am about to place an order now), the other for sampling at the local shops. A big thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me!
    On another note, I just read that it’s gotten harder to buy perfume fro the UK due to post regulations, so that limits a bit my access to online shops. Oh well.

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