• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

The Monday Mail ~ help Pamela find a new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 3 December 2012 30 Comments

Boites aux lettres

Today we're helping Pamela, and after that, the Monday Mail goes on its holiday vacation — it will return in January. If you'd like to get on the waiting list, see here.

Pamela wants to find a new signature fragrance that's more interesting than the generic fruity florals at Macy's and Sephora. Her perfect scent will be unique, warm, feminine and a little mysterious, but still accessible enough for everyday wear and versatile enough to take her into the evening. She can spend up to $150, and is happy to shop online. Here is what we know about Pamela:

She's a 20-something PhD student in English.

She lives in a small midwestern town, but travels quite a bit (and shops for perfume when she does).

Her personal style is a combination of classic, simple shapes and some more masculine cuts (button-down shirts, for instance but always in a feminine color), and she loves jewel tones.

She has brown hair with bangs, and brown eyes.

Pamela likes amber, sandalwood, musk, jasmine, tobacco, leather, spices, tuberose (more green, though), mimosa, violet and soap.  Some of the scents she enjoys at the moment include Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras, L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa pour Moi, Kiehl's Original Musk and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.

Pamela dislikes citrus, some powdery notes (see below), gardenia, rose, chocolate, sugar and berries.

Here are a few of the fragrances she has tried:

Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur: Reminded her too much of her dad's Obsession for Men.

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower: Too grassy and not creamy enough.

Balenciaga Paris: Almost right, but maybe a little thin — she thinks she'd prefer something more full-bodied.

Byredo Gypsy Water: She likes the spices, but it's also a little weak.

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial: She loves the base, but not the cherry medicinal opening, and it might be a little over-the-top for daytime wear.

Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb: She likes it, but too masculine for her to wear.

Gucci Rush: Pamela has fond memories of her mom wearing this.

Lush Imogen Rose and Love, Chloe: She sort of liked the powder in these scents, so maybe powder isn't totally out. But she does not like Chanel No. 5, and does not like the difficult opening of some of the Lush scents.

Stella McCartney Lily, Gucci Eau Premiere, Givenchy Dahlia Noir: All too dull.

L'Artisan Parfumeur's Traversee du Bosphore: Nice, and might turn out to be a contender.

What say you?

Note: top image is Boites aux lettres [cropped] by besopha at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

Advertisement


30 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. eaudemale says:
    3 December 2012 at 11:47 am

    Poeme by Lancome

    Log in to Reply
  2. friede says:
    3 December 2012 at 11:51 am

    Fellow English PhD (formerly a Midwestern grad student):

    – Check out the Imaginary Authors line for both the great scents (Memoirs of a Trespasser and Soft Lawn for sure, maybe Bull’s Blood?) and the concept (which includes bookmarks, fake author personas, etc.)

    – The only Chanel I like (being anti-powder myself) is Beige, but it might be too quiet for you

    – I know you hate chocolate (as do I), but Arquiste is another history-geek line that is also solidly beautiful and worth sniffing when you are out traveling, especially Anima Dulcis (yes, yes, based on chocolate, but mole rather than sticky fudgy glop)

    I’m not seeing any Lutens on your list of sniffed-stuff, and I suspect that you’ll find something distinctive/warm/right in that line somewhere — hard to tell exactly what, since there’s so many!
    –

    Log in to Reply
  3. egabbert says:
    3 December 2012 at 11:57 am

    Given all this: “Her perfect scent will be unique, warm, feminine and a little mysterious, but still accessible enough for everyday wear and versatile enough to take her into the evening. She can spend up to $150” as well as your note likes I think you need to try the Serge Lutens line. Try:

    Amber Sultan
    the sandalwoods (there are 3)
    Clair de Musc (clean) and Muscs Koublai Kahn (dirty)
    Chergui (tobacco)
    Cuir Mauresque, Boxeuses, and Daim Blond (leather/suede) …

    There are also several spicy/woody scents (Feminite du Bois), a couple of tuberose-centric ones, etc. …. If you can get to a major city with a Barney’s, you can sniff most of the line.

    Good luck!

    Log in to Reply
  4. Eroica says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:10 pm

    My vote is for Etat Libre d’Orange Like This (Tilda Swinton). I think it’d be perfect!

    Log in to Reply
  5. JolieFleurs says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:12 pm

    hhhmmm, try some Tabac Blond (Caron). It’s a leathery floral with lots of soft tobacco. It is exquisite in the extrait, but the edp is also nice. I believe Luckyscent carries Caron now, but I’d call the boutique in NYC. DiIane is a sweetheart, and will ship it to you.

    Log in to Reply
  6. pampampam says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:22 pm

    These are all amazing recommendations, thank you so much!

    I know about Serge Lutens, but I’ve only sniffed one scent from that line (don’t remember the name, but it smelled like ginger). I will definitely take a closer look when I’m in Chicago in a couple of weeks.

    Log in to Reply
    • C.H. says:
      3 December 2012 at 3:36 pm

      Yes just want to cosign with Friede & Egabbert above: I feel like there could definitely be a winner in the Serge Lutens line for you, maybe even something that doesn’t immediately sound like it fits the bill. I find the SL compositions off-beat enough that it’s even harder than usual to say just from the listed notes whether something will suit. I’m usually a hater of all scents foody, but I write this with Jeux de peau on one wrist and Louve on the other, and I’m oddly delighted by both. So many strange marvels–you def won’t smell like a Sephora!

      Happy sniffing!

      Log in to Reply
  7. Emily says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:27 pm

    Pamela, your reaction to Balenciaga Paris makes me think that Tom Ford Violet Blonde might work for you. It shares some traits with modern powdery scents like BP and Love, Chloe, but has more presence and oomph (to use a technical term).

    Others you might check out: Diptyque Volutes (beautiful tobacco scent; the EDT is a little brighter/spicier, and the EDP is richer and a little sweeter, but not overly so); Aesop Marrakech (clove, cardamom, and sandalwood); Chanel Cuir de Russie (iris leather; less sneezy than some of the other classic Chanels); Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette (like it sounds, only more pipe-tobacco than cigarette, to my nose), Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie (drama-queen mimosa with spicy and leathery notes); and Cuir de Lancome (beautiful, warm floral leather). Happy sniffing!

    Log in to Reply
    • JolieFleurs says:
      3 December 2012 at 12:45 pm

      Oh, yes yes yes on the jasmin et cig (I was going to suggest it, but thought it might be too light…it’s really fun, though! I get more unsmoked cigarette at the bottom of someone’s purse than pipe, FWIW) and the Une Fleur de Cassie ( I have only ever smelled the body creme and it is really lovely)

      Log in to Reply
    • farouche says:
      3 December 2012 at 1:20 pm

      Second both Volutes, either EDP or EDT, and Cuir de Lancôme. Smoke & leather…yum!

      Log in to Reply
  8. ladymurasaki says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:36 pm

    I have a few suggestions.

    Tubereuse Couture by Parfumerie Generale; creamy tuberose and sandalwood. The dry down is soft and a little powdery.

    Tabac Blond Extrait by Caron; one of the best leather/floral scents. I prefer the extrait as it is deeper.

    Flor Azteca by Exotic Island Aromatics; spicy tuberose with a hint of coconut-like note.

    Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens; a very unique tuberose. There’s nothing like it. I particularly like the “root beer” vibe I get from this. It smells sharp initially but the dry down is soft and velvety.

    Log in to Reply
  9. Abyss says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:57 pm

    I would urge Pamela to try Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. The name is pretty self-explanatory – it’s a beautifully balanced woody violet that’s suitable for day-wear while remaining special and refined enough for the evening too.

    SL Feminite de Bois is also worth trying, it’s done in the same mould as above but with less emphasis on the violet and more on the plummy fruit.

    Log in to Reply
    • Cybele says:
      3 December 2012 at 6:18 pm

      second both of them. I also heard great things about Lutens’ Bois et Musc!

      Log in to Reply
  10. lucasai says:
    3 December 2012 at 12:59 pm

    Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea and Winter Woods
    Parfumerie Generale Cuir Venenum
    Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue

    Those are my recommendations.

    Log in to Reply
  11. Joshua says:
    3 December 2012 at 1:19 pm

    I’d recommend Aqua Alba by Angela Flanders

    Log in to Reply
  12. quixoticcynic says:
    3 December 2012 at 1:29 pm

    Hello fellow 20-something English PhD student :-) (It’s interesting there are so many current or former grad students…particularly in English…who become so interested in perfume.) You might try Bottega Veneta (which might be a bit too powdery, though it’s not on me) and Estee Lauder Sensuous (which is a nice inexpensive woody/creamy perfume). Also, Miller Harris’s L’Air de Rien might be worth a sample, though apparently it goes verrry skanky on some. Come to think of it, if you are interested and can’t find samples of any of these easily, I’d be happy to send you some (gotta support the academia/perfumista overlapping sisterhood :-)

    Log in to Reply
    • Karin says:
      3 December 2012 at 2:18 pm

      Second Bottega Veneta!

      Log in to Reply
  13. farouche says:
    3 December 2012 at 1:30 pm

    I think that Pamela might like to try Fendi Theorema, a lovely warm spicy (powderless!) amber that would be a great day to evening option. Bulgari Black is unusual and terrific for the right person. Prada L’Eau Ambree, although it might be a bit too generic for Pamela, wears easily throughout the day. And Sensuous Nude by Estée Lauder might be nice in the body cream or touch-on fragrance.

    Log in to Reply
  14. Bee says:
    3 December 2012 at 1:33 pm

    have you tried Dzing! (artisan parfumeur), Bulgari Black, Felanilla (PG), musc nomade (annick goutal)? If you feel like splurging on a sample: “M” by purdistance… my favourite leathery-spicy-warm scent (could be too unisex for you though)

    Log in to Reply
  15. Rappleyea says:
    3 December 2012 at 1:50 pm

    I came on here and read Angela’s review of SSS Nostalgie first and then today’s Monday Mail. I had to laugh as Pamela exactly described Nostalgie in what she was looking for.

    I’d also recommend SSS Champagne de Bois as well as Laurie’s two violet fragrances: Voile de Violette and Wood Violet.

    Log in to Reply
  16. Mitzi says:
    3 December 2012 at 2:53 pm

    I wwould suggest Van. Cleef Arpels First Love, a lovely warm ylang and amber fragrance.

    Log in to Reply
  17. C.H. says:
    3 December 2012 at 3:06 pm

    I have not researched the availability beyond the sample I have, and I worry it’s discontinued, but triangulating from Musc Ravageur and Spicebomb (since it sounds more like just that those two don’t suit, rather than that you dislike them), I wonder if you’d like L’Artisan Tea for Two. Lots of notes in common, but it might feel more feminine than either of those two. It’s more refined than Spicebomb, I’d say, and it doesn’t have the fairly masculine open that MR does (also much less musky).

    Just to shake things up: a mini of Toujours Moi edc came into my possession and I’m surprised at how much I enjoy it (many from that era are just way too much for me to handle). Another warm, spicy (and in this case rather tobacco-y) option. It might feel a little ‘old’ but I feel like that has the potential to play in sort of cool and interesting way, especially if you are in your twenties and in humanities grad school! Like a way-easier-pull-off version of Tavi Gevinson’s gray hair. (Mm, still envious of that, is it too late for me to try it?) Anyway, relatively cheap and easy to come by, so even if it’s a long shot, it could be worth a try!

    Hope your program is going well!

    Log in to Reply
  18. austenfan says:
    3 December 2012 at 3:48 pm

    If my memory serves me right Balenciaga Paris is a violet. Another lovely violet that has a bit more presence is Annick Goutal La Violette.
    A mimosa fragrance that is very lovely but not often talked about on the blogs is L’Infante by Divine. It’s a gorgeous sunny floral that has quite a nice presence. If you google Divine you will find the fragrance house. I think Luckyscent carries the line in the States.

    Log in to Reply
    • JolieFleurs says:
      3 December 2012 at 8:12 pm

      Oh, wow, I got a sample of that in a swap once and fell in love with it! I didn’t know what the notes were, and the label had gotten wet so I didn’t know the house. It is sooo pretty.

      Thanks for mentioning it and solving my mystery!

      Log in to Reply
      • austenfan says:
        4 December 2012 at 4:23 pm

        You are very welcome. Have you tried any of the others in the line? They are well worth it. My favourites are Divine and L’Homme de Coeur.

        Log in to Reply
  19. dolcesarah says:
    3 December 2012 at 8:46 pm

    Tea for two
    Dzing
    Timbuktu
    Tabac Aurea
    Champaca
    ELO’s PUTAIN de Palaces and Chargone and Archives 69
    Lady Vengence
    Champaign du Bois
    Mitsouko
    Mazzolari’s Lei
    Amarathine
    Montale’s Oud Blossom, Mukalhaat, And wild Pears. Red Aoud if you serious enough.

    Log in to Reply
  20. dolcesarah says:
    3 December 2012 at 8:47 pm

    Bal d Afrique
    Seven veils
    MUSC by Mona di Orio

    Log in to Reply
  21. nozknoz says:
    3 December 2012 at 9:49 pm

    There are several recommendations above for perfumes form Parfumerie Generale (PG), and I agree. This line has great perfumes that aren’t super expensive. I would add PG Indochine.

    Log in to Reply
  22. pampampam says:
    3 December 2012 at 9:56 pm

    Wow, thank you for all the suggestions! I can’t wait to go shopping.

    Log in to Reply
  23. Sapphire says:
    3 December 2012 at 11:48 pm

    Seconding all the suggestions for Diptyque Volutes. Their Eau Duelle is a dry vanilla that might also work for you. Would also recommend trying the original Omnia, which is dry and spicy (meant to be like chai tea). Not in department stores anymore, but should be available at online discounters. Champagne de Bois and Tabac Aurea are both great for fall, though more assertive. You could also consider decants of Guerlain Tonka Imperiale or Oriental Brulant. Happy hunting!

    Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement


Luckyscent

Search

Browse by…

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

December 2020
November 2020
October 2020
September 2020
August 2020
July 2020
Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

From NST at Twitter

  • Headline of the day: "Gwyneth Paltrow’s vagina-scented candle almost burns down home of woman who won it in a quiz" https://t.co/F6bvZtoSXl, 2 hours ago
  • "Jo Loves adopts refillable technology for Fragrance Paintbrush" (cosmeticsbusiness) https://t.co/sn2tZ1cguT,
  • @robini71 And my favorite honeysuckle is also limited edition -- Goutal Le Chevrefeuille. They do bring it back eve… https://t.co/MFGwHJK0Ji,
  • "Juliette Has a Gun Gets Minority Backing" (wwd via aol) https://t.co/7EdL3TyXKO,
  • @MrsCollins1787 Good, hope you love it!,

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

TBA April ~ freebiemeet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2021 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.